New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Bigwheel said:
Peetsyo said:
Hi,




I cannot use the motors torque arm to hold the motor in position , so maybe I can drill holes into the gear housing and fix the motor to frames chainguide mount (ISCG-05). I've got a full suspension frame , that's my only option.

Cheers !


No need to even do that. Just let the motor housing rest against your down tube and the rotational force will hold it up against there. You can put a piece of rubber there as a bumper so that the dt won't get damaged if it is an aluminum/carbon frame. Just make sure you use the two tab bb washer to prevent the motor from twisting side to side also.


The rear swingarm won't let me stop the motor from turning.
So I removed the torque sensor and drilled holes into the housing to fix it with ISCG mount

I haven't had any tests yet tho. (don't try it @ home yet.)

tsdz2-intall.jpg
 
Peetsyo said:
Bigwheel said:
Peetsyo said:
Hi,




I cannot use the motors torque arm to hold the motor in position , so maybe I can drill holes into the gear housing and fix the motor to frames chainguide mount (ISCG-05). I've got a full suspension frame , that's my only option.

Cheers !


No need to even do that. Just let the motor housing rest against your down tube and the rotational force will hold it up against there. You can put a piece of rubber there as a bumper so that the dt won't get damaged if it is an aluminum/carbon frame. Just make sure you use the two tab bb washer to prevent the motor from twisting side to side also.


The rear swingarm won't let me stop the motor from turning.
So I removed the torque sensor and drilled holes into the housing to fix it with ISCG mount

I haven't had any tests yet tho. (don't try it @ home yet.)

tsdz2-intall.jpg
If you removed torque sensor, how do you plan to activate the motor assistance?? Using only PAS??
 
I'm thinking he only removed it to gain access to install the fasteners, then reinstalled it. Maybe....

[/quote]
If you removed torque sensor, how do you plan to activate the motor assistance?? Using only PAS??
[/quote]
 
raylo32 said:
I'm thinking he only removed it to gain access to install the fasteners, then reinstalled it. Maybe....
If you removed torque sensor, how do you plan to activate the motor assistance?? Using only PAS??
[/quote]
[/quote]

Yes correct , just removed the torque sensor to gain access. I did not want to risk drilling through the torque sensor or damage it.
 
Peetsyo said:
raylo32 said:
I'm thinking he only removed it to gain access to install the fasteners, then reinstalled it. Maybe....
If you removed torque sensor, how do you plan to activate the motor assistance?? Using only PAS??
[/quote]

Yes correct , just removed the torque sensor to gain access. I did not want to risk drilling through the torque sensor or damage it.
[/quote]

Hello, nice idea :thumb: can you send more photos? did you use something to waterproof?
 
zappan said:
Peetsyo said:
raylo32 said:
I'm thinking he only removed it to gain access to install the fasteners, then reinstalled it. Maybe....
If you removed torque sensor, how do you plan to activate the motor assistance?? Using only PAS??

Yes correct , just removed the torque sensor to gain access. I did not want to risk drilling through the torque sensor or damage it.
[/quote]

Hello, nice idea :thumb: can you send more photos? did you use something to waterproof?
[/quote]

Those were the only pictures. I forgot to waterproof but you can always use silicone sealant. The most challenging part is to drill precise holes into the housing.
 
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
 
eyebyesickle said:
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
Would a belt cog at the cranks match up with the back cog? (Beltline)
 
tomtom50 said:
eyebyesickle said:
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
Would a belt cog at the cranks match up with the back cog? (Beltline)

Forgot to mention, would need the 130 or 104bcd gates carbon drive chain ring, and could use corresponding TSDZ2 adapter. seems like a really good price for the bike...
 
tomtom50 said:
eyebyesickle said:
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
Would a belt cog at the cranks match up with the back cog? (Beltline)
I would be very concerned about beltline. I've had a Carbon Gates drive bike driving a Alfine 11 for a few years and looked at replacing the front crank and chainring. Very tricky to get it lined up and based on the belt tension I doubt it would suffer more than a mm or two of misalignment because the belt is wide and the load sits across the entire belt.
 
mctubster said:
tomtom50 said:
eyebyesickle said:
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
Would a belt cog at the cranks match up with the back cog? (Beltline)
I would be very concerned about beltline. I've had a Carbon Gates drive bike driving a Alfine 11 for a few years and looked at replacing the front crank and chainring. Very tricky to get it lined up and based on the belt tension I doubt it would suffer more than a mm or two of misalignment because the belt is wide and the load sits across the entire belt.

Yes, this is my only concern too, but I feel confident about having a buddy machine an offset to match the chainline! Also, in my experience, the TSDZ2 usually lines up nicely with the IGH cog, so hopefully that wouldn't even have to happen, although we are prepared for it. I will try one soon and let you guys know how much of a headache I have afterwords! :lol:
 
tomtom50 said:
eyebyesickle said:
I am always checking out good conversion candidates... I think this bike would be very good for a commuter conversion...belt drive and IGH... I would do a 36v witha stealth bottle battery...what do you guys think?>

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/continuumonyx
Would a belt cog at the cranks match up with the back cog? (Beltline)

I have looked at this bike as well and their whole line is good value. You need to check how they tighten the belt. If the chainstays slide out to tighten you are good. However, if it uses the popular method of concentric bb rotating to tighten then it won't work. Even if you can clear the concentric BB these typically have a bolted flange under the bottom bracket that sticks out way to far for a mid-drive.

You may be ok on chainline. The N380 is 45.5 offset, the TSDZ2 is 50 minus the Gates flange offset of 3.1 gives you 46.9 at the cranks. So 1.4mm difference and Gates allows up to ~3mm. However, if you need to space the TSDZ2 out to clear the chainstay all bets are off.
 
eyebyesickle said:
Yes, this is my only concern too, but I feel confident about having a buddy machine an offset to match the chainline! Also, in my experience, the TSDZ2 usually lines up nicely with the IGH cog, so hopefully that wouldn't even have to happen, although we are prepared for it. I will try one soon and let you guys know how much of a headache I have afterwords! :lol:
Let us know if you try it. Sounds like fun. I’m thinking of changing my 11-36 freehub to a nexus 8-speed. Almost the same range.
 
I´m not sure if a Nexus 8/Alfine can handel a high torque: them haven a torque limiter, a potection for avoid the internal gears damage.

I like and use them (since 15 years) , but sometimes this limiter works with only my legs forces.Add a motor and ... ufffff !!!!

Cheers
 
Hi, I have bought kit tsdz2 36v 350W with XH18 LCD and I have some doubts.
1.) Can you put braking sensor even if it comes with lcd XH18?
2.) What adapter is needed to put a plate of 48 or 52?
3) Being XH18, does it come with 6 pins or 8 pins? If it has 6 pins is it possible to put the new firmware?
Thank you.
 
Pictures of my latest build (Decatlhon Rockrider 540S M size frame) using TSDZ2, a new bicycle shared for my girlfriend and son (yes, he has already almost his height).

I will update the wiki with some of this new pictures and information.

Fixing TSDZ2 to the bicycle full suspension frame and also adding a support for the chain ring gears since original support must be removed to install TSDZ2:










Adding the temperature sensor, for the first time I used double side thermal tape that I bought on Ebay -- this way I make sure sensor has a very good contact with the motor case, and hence a good reading.
That motor controller has the 6 pins and so I had to access to PCB and solder wires to the temperature sensor.






My bicycle compared to this new one:


He is so happy!!


 
Rydon said:
I have looked at this bike as well and their whole line is good value. You need to check how they tighten the belt. If the chainstays slide out to tighten you are good. However, if it uses the popular method of concentric bb rotating to tighten then it won't work. Even if you can clear the concentric BB these typically have a bolted flange under the bottom bracket that sticks out way to far for a mid-drive.

You may be ok on chainline. The N380 is 45.5 offset, the TSDZ2 is 50 minus the Gates flange offset of 3.1 gives you 46.9 at the cranks. So 1.4mm difference and Gates allows up to ~3mm. However, if you need to space the TSDZ2 out to clear the chainstay all bets are off.

Looks like standard front BB, and adjustable chainstay length based on photos in this review

https://cycletechreview.com/2018/bikes-frames/priority-continuum-onyx/
 
sysrq said:
sysrq said:
raylo32 said:
Please take some pics to document the maintenance. Perhaps the mods could make a TSDZ2 maintenance sticky for users to refer to.

sysrq said:
After riding in a misty weather during autumn and not using it for two months the motor now seems a bit louder and grittier. Probably will have to check the grease level on a secondary gear before finding out if white lithium grease is suitable.
Is there enough factory grease or it needs more. Overgreasing is never good.
https://imgur.com/a/Ey1ZKxm?
Will gonna use Lucas Red n Tacky since mineral oils can be mixed with polyalphaolefins found in factory Molykote EM-50L and it has lithium as a thickiner as well. The only concern would be unknown additives. And since mineral oil is compatible with nylon or acetal then seeping might not damage anything. Only lubricants based on esters or polyglycols are generally not compatible with plastics.
Polyurea grease (ParkPolylube, Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty) would be better though as they say it holds up better at high speeds and is compatible with plastics too, but then everything would have to be completely degreased and that means complete overhaul.
The last reason is that some moly grease can be abrasive on certain parts.
http://what-when-how.com/materialsparts-and-finishes/acetal-plastics/
http://www.newmantools.com/pipestoppers/NYLON_chem_resistance_nt.pdf
https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/lucas-oil-14-oz-red-and-tacky-grease/693860_0_0
Actually esters are compatible with nylon according to current known source.

Actually Molykote EM-50L seems stickier and thicker than Lucas Red n Tacky, despite Lucas Red n Tacky being NLGI 2 and Molykote EM-50L NLGI 1. Will see if extreme pressure additives make any difference. Turns out in long term only synthetic ones are better for plastics, since they deteriorate slower.
Another thing was that later models actually do have slightly helical secondary gear, although it seems fairly noisy anyway. In this regard quote from BrunoPOWEEER: ''Helical gears crease a side load and..... pumps the grease like a propeller to one side of the gear.. eventually one side of the gears won't be lubricated... combining this with extreme torque... this was a recipe for disaster!! No wonder why my pinion gear was damaged so badly.'' That's what I noticed when regreasing it.
 
mctubster said:
Rydon said:
I have looked at this bike as well and their whole line is good value. You need to check how they tighten the belt. If the chainstays slide out to tighten you are good. However, if it uses the popular method of concentric bb rotating to tighten then it won't work. Even if you can clear the concentric BB these typically have a bolted flange under the bottom bracket that sticks out way to far for a mid-drive.

You may be ok on chainline. The N380 is 45.5 offset, the TSDZ2 is 50 minus the Gates flange offset of 3.1 gives you 46.9 at the cranks. So 1.4mm difference and Gates allows up to ~3mm. However, if you need to space the TSDZ2 out to clear the chainstay all bets are off.

Looks like standard front BB, and adjustable chainstay length based on photos in this review

https://cycletechreview.com/2018/bikes-frames/priority-continuum-onyx/

Nice catch. Won't have to buy one to find out. :wink: It really is a nice combination of features for a great price if you are looking for a city/commuter bike. Too bad it has the Trekking N380 groupset instead of the more robust Sportive. The Sportive is rated at 500 watts and the Trekking is rated at 250 watts so the Sportive would be better suited to the TSDZ2. That being said, however, I have run BBSHD 1000 watt motors on the regular Nuvinci N380 Trekking equivalent with no problems. The Techs at Nuvinci told me that they have only really had problems with people putting large >22T cogs on it and generating so much torque it cracked the case. Another source told me that the new Sportive version is beefed up and will take bursts of 1000 watts so I expect it will probably go well beyond that. Great little IGH's. Too bad they are not available on the aftermarket yet. Enviolo is only shipping them to branded manufacturers. You can however still buy Nuvinci branded N380's on eBay and Amazon.

Did you notice how many teeth the Priority bike has on the front Gates chainring and the rear cog?
 
casainho said:
Pictures of my latest build (Decatlhon Rockrider 540S M size frame) using TSDZ2, a new bicycle shared for my girlfriend and son (yes, he has already almost his height).

I will update the wiki with some of this new pictures and information.

Fixing TSDZ2 to the bicycle full suspension frame and also adding a support for the chain ring gears since original support must be removed to install TSDZ2:










Adding the temperature sensor, for the first time I used double side thermal tape that I bought on Ebay -- this way I make sure sensor has a very good contact with the motor case, and hence a good reading.
That motor controller has the 6 pins and so I had to access to PCB and solder wires to the temperature sensor.






My bicycle compared to this new one:


He is so happy!!



Hi
It looks great.

Can you give us the ebay link for the thermal tape?

Thanks
 
So, do I get one of these or the bafang? I keep going back and forth between the two and am still undecided. Which ever one I get would have to be 250w though.
 
Casainho two questions:

a- The conexión into the controller for the termal sensor LM35 operation are diferents points of the usually documentaion. Where take the +5v?

b- There is any problem with this sensor when we use back the stock firmware. Any problem or interference?

Thank´s
 
casainho said:
Pictures of my latest build (Decatlhon Rockrider 540S M size frame) using TSDZ2, a new bicycle shared for my girlfriend and son (yes, he has already almost his height).

I will update the wiki with some of this new pictures and information.

Fixing TSDZ2 to the bicycle full suspension frame and also adding a support for the chain ring gears since original support must be removed to install TSDZ2:

Nice job Casainho. And good find with the bracket. Can you share where you the bracket from ?
 
Bartman said:
casainho said:
Pictures of my latest build (Decatlhon Rockrider 540S M size frame) using TSDZ2, a new bicycle shared for my girlfriend and son (yes, he has already almost his height).

I will update the wiki with some of this new pictures and information.

Fixing TSDZ2 to the bicycle full suspension frame and also adding a support for the chain ring gears since original support must be removed to install TSDZ2:

Nice job Casainho. And good find with the bracket. Can you share where you the bracket from ?

Found them. Tube clamps.
 
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