Bg-electric-cycle said:
What stumped me is the 12v feed on the brake lock and the ignition voltage appears 12v.
To clarify... for the KLS side of things
The 12v output - numbered #11 (RED) on the KLS schematic is 0v when controller is OFF. When controller is ON - #11 will switch from 0v to 12v+, this 12v low amp signal is used for supplying switching voltage for brakes/forward/reverse/footswitch/lowspeed/ect.. Remember #11 is an output, the brake #25 is an input.
Just don't expect or try to run any lights off this 12v wire, only switches. If you need more 12v for lights, horn, ect.. use a dc/dc converter. It's OK to tie the 12v out from a switched DC/DC to #11. More amps won't hurt the controller, more volts will so keep it under 16v.
You turn on the KLS by connecting the PWR - numbered #7 (PINK) to battery + or 72v +, don't let the way the schematic looks fool you. Just because #7 (Pink/PWR) is on the "same side" as the 12v stuff, doesn't mean its 12v too. Trust me, you need full pack voltage on this "Key Switch" wire.
Don't quote me but it appears very likely the 72v version of the alarm's key switch wire is supposed to go to 72v+ so connect that to the same place you have #7 (pink/PWR).
I have an alarm on my 84v bike too, but this was long before high voltage (36-72v) "ebike" alarms were available. I opened up my standard car alarm brain and wired in a 100v to 12 buck converter, glued it in place, then wired it up just like this new fancy ebike alarm.