MJSfoto1956
10 kW
madin88 said:
Thanks for the succinct explanation!
M
Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER
- Thread starter Qulbix
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Thanks for the succinct explanation!
M
hgclobo
10 mW
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2018
- Messages
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So, last week I got my frame kit and today I just got the 200A SPIM08HP packs, I test fitted them and even though I pre measured everything before buying the batts I was still a bit nervous they weren't going to fit but check the pictures out, im glad to get them in with space to spare for the BMS, of course its no 36Ah pack, its only 8Ah but I think its going to be a super fast build, I can now take my time sourcing and building a 240 cells 30Q pack.
Next step is to paint my frame and rims before starting the build, pictures when done...
View attachment 1
Next step is to paint my frame and rims before starting the build, pictures when done...
View attachment 1
TheBMallory
10 W
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- Dec 24, 2014
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Started building the parallel packs (have not put them in series yet) :
I'll probably have to double every nickel strip, especially those in series. Kweld works great btw
I'll probably have to double every nickel strip, especially those in series. Kweld works great btw
MJSfoto1956
10 kW
madin88 said:
This may seem like an odd question but it is important for my particular use-case:
- Can you discharge (i.e. power some load) while charging with a "common port" type of BMS?
(I'm 99% certain you can with a "separate port" type)
Michael
TheBMallory
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- Dec 24, 2014
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Not really, I can only work on it a few hours during weekends and I'm waiting for the BMS to be delivered.
Here's a pic :
This side is finished since then. I still have to do the other side.
I doubled every series connection.
I purposely left some space on the top right corner in order to have some space to fit some electronics, maybe the BMS if it fits.
That is a LOT of spot welding. I'm glad I got a proper tool
Here's a pic :
This side is finished since then. I still have to do the other side.
I doubled every series connection.
I purposely left some space on the top right corner in order to have some space to fit some electronics, maybe the BMS if it fits.
That is a LOT of spot welding. I'm glad I got a proper tool
Rix
100 TW
Battery looks great.
hgclobo
10 mW
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- Dec 6, 2018
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Paint (lime green plastidip), statorade and hubsink done.
Next step is to lace the wheels, pictures when done...
View attachment 6
View attachment 5
Next step is to lace the wheels, pictures when done...
View attachment 6
View attachment 5
hgclobo said:
Rix
100 TW
Going to be sweet!!!!
hgclobo
10 mW
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2018
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Damn, didn’t think the sink was going to be an issue with the lacing, no biggie, I’ll remove it, lace it and place it again.
And about the paint, well plastidip is not meant to be permanent, just a super easy way to paint over what you already got and super easy to remove and repair, under tge plastidip I still have the original black/white powdercoat.
And about the paint, well plastidip is not meant to be permanent, just a super easy way to paint over what you already got and super easy to remove and repair, under tge plastidip I still have the original black/white powdercoat.
TheBMallory
10 W
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- Dec 24, 2014
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Battery almost finished, can someone please tell me I didn't screw up cable management for the BMS ? It was really a pain... I now have high and low spots and I intend to use the same solution as Offroader
I have yet to solder the power cables and I'll shrink wrap everything
I have yet to solder the power cables and I'll shrink wrap everything
TheBMallory
10 W
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- Dec 24, 2014
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Yes voltage is correct. By high and low spots I mean that the sides are not completely flat anymore and vibrations could make some cables rub against each other. I saw you put some foam in some places in order to prevent that
TheBMallory
10 W
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Test fit.
Putting the BMS inside is going to be fun, although there's room.
Putting the BMS inside is going to be fun, although there's room.
Rix
100 TW
TheBMallory said:Test fit.
Putting the BMS inside is going to be fun, although there's room.
Very nice Mallory, call your build "offroader II" thats a lot of battery. I like it.
TheBMallory
10 W
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Update! Starting to look like a bike
I don't believe I gave an update after installing my BMS.
Adaptto BMS hard wired into battery pack with 28 AWG wire.
BMS wire coming out the sides of the battery pack
Battery first wrapped with Kapton tape to not leave any residue. Then some electrical tape over some wires for extra wear resistance. Then multiple layers of packaging tape to hold everything tightly together.
Battery inserted, battery wires still need to be run to controller through frame.
Closed cell foam all around battery pack. The battery pack had to be forced into the battery compartment.
Adaptto BMS hard wired into battery pack with 28 AWG wire.
BMS wire coming out the sides of the battery pack
Battery first wrapped with Kapton tape to not leave any residue. Then some electrical tape over some wires for extra wear resistance. Then multiple layers of packaging tape to hold everything tightly together.
Battery inserted, battery wires still need to be run to controller through frame.
Closed cell foam all around battery pack. The battery pack had to be forced into the battery compartment.
TheBMallory
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Mesh wire for the BMS wires is a nice idea that I'm going to steal
Where the battery sits against the back of the frame, I had no room to insert any foam. I therefore squeezed in hot glue sticks to relieve pressure on those few cells pushed up against the metal frame.
I cut pieces of small stick on foam and inserted them in various places to secure the battery. The side covers will make contact with this foam.
In the past I used foam sheets but they would force the side covers to press into the wires on the sides of the pack. I also believe the foam on the sides prevented heat from escaping the battery. The foam pieces were placed where there were no wires.
You can also see the hot glue sticks I inserted to relieve pressure on the few cells at the rear of the pack. I had to do this because I had no room to insert any foam as the pack took up all available space.
Side covers will make contact with the foam and not the wires on the sides of the battery. Foam is placed where there are no wires.
If you look closely you can see how some of the wire insulation split, you will see silver showing through. This may be because of the side covers pressing up against the wire. If the blue wire insulation failed it would short against the black wire below it in that location. This is why I reinforced my pack with electrical tape over these locations and also used foam pieces so the side covers would press against foam and cells without pressing against wires.
Orange wire insulation split open.
I cut pieces of small stick on foam and inserted them in various places to secure the battery. The side covers will make contact with this foam.
In the past I used foam sheets but they would force the side covers to press into the wires on the sides of the pack. I also believe the foam on the sides prevented heat from escaping the battery. The foam pieces were placed where there were no wires.
You can also see the hot glue sticks I inserted to relieve pressure on the few cells at the rear of the pack. I had to do this because I had no room to insert any foam as the pack took up all available space.
Side covers will make contact with the foam and not the wires on the sides of the battery. Foam is placed where there are no wires.
If you look closely you can see how some of the wire insulation split, you will see silver showing through. This may be because of the side covers pressing up against the wire. If the blue wire insulation failed it would short against the black wire below it in that location. This is why I reinforced my pack with electrical tape over these locations and also used foam pieces so the side covers would press against foam and cells without pressing against wires.
Orange wire insulation split open.
In the past I used these thin foam sheets. I used 3 layers of them. The issue with them is that they will insulate the battery and also push against the wires on the sides of the pack, if the wires happen to be a high point. This may have caused some of my wire insulation to be cut open.
I wouldn't use the following method to secure the pack, especially if you have wires on the sides of the pack. Cut small pieces of foam insulation and stick them where the wires are not, like I did above.
Maybe you have a better way to secure the battery on the sides.
This is what I did a couple of years back when first installing my pack:
I wouldn't use the following method to secure the pack, especially if you have wires on the sides of the pack. Cut small pieces of foam insulation and stick them where the wires are not, like I did above.
Maybe you have a better way to secure the battery on the sides.
This is what I did a couple of years back when first installing my pack:
I liked the idea to use clear packaging tape because its cheap and extremely strong. I wrapped multiple layers of this around the pack . It will help secure everything, especially all the wires run on the sides of the pack, and offer wear resistance.
TheBMallory
10 W
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I tried big ass shrink wrap with mine and couldn't make it perfectly flat without wrinkles. I use this to pack mine : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B00I77R9CA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
