New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

mctubster said:
Hi,

Any thoughts on an aftermarket chain guard for the TSDZ2? Anyone using one?

Cheers

Driveline chain guards fit to the chainring bolts (come with extended bolts and suitable spacers). Available from Taiwan based Super Bicycle Shop

Check ebay as when I bought one it was cheaper than from their own site.
https://superbicycle-shop.com/product.php?strKey=chain+guard
 
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time :( My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.
 
el_proletario said:
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time :( My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Haven't noticed any creaking after removing and regereasing the secondary gear yet, only some axle instability when pushing hard on the hill with pedal assist off + developed some rubbing noise after regressing, could be sprag clutch seal or possible missing springs on rotary transformer (even though I can't remember it sliding on the outer axle, only the crank axle was able to slide due to removal of a circlip).
 
el_proletario said:
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time :( My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.
Some people have reported having to install a shim to take up space between the motor tube and the BB shell to eliminate movement there.

I've got a couple more photos up of my Trek IGH project on the build thread at elelctricbike.com.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/82828-trek-navigator-400-igh-tsdz2-project/page2
There's also a little bit of OT 1960's USA automotive strangeness I posted while I was was waiting to get the bike back from my LBS. If you want to comment or ask about any of that I would suggest do it there or PM me so as not to digress too much here.
 
sysrq said:
el_proletario said:
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time :( My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Haven't noticed any creaking after removing and regereasing the secondary gear yet, only some axle instability when pushing hard on the hill with pedal assist off + developed some rubbing noise after regressing, could be sprag clutch seal or possible missing springs on rotary transformer (even though I can't remember it sliding on the outer axle, only the crank axle was able to slide due to removal of a circlip).

I am experiencing the pedals moving forward but not moving motor / drivechain when under load (happens regardless of whether motor is on off) - is this what you mean by axle instability?
 
itsallwhite said:
sysrq said:
el_proletario said:
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time :( My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Haven't noticed any creaking after removing and regereasing the secondary gear yet, only some axle instability when pushing hard on the hill with pedal assist off + developed some rubbing noise after regressing, could be sprag clutch seal or possible missing springs on rotary transformer (even though I can't remember it sliding on the outer axle, only the crank axle was able to slide due to removal of a circlip).

I am experiencing the pedals moving forward but not moving motor / drivechain when under load (happens regardless of whether motor is on off) - is this what you mean by axle instability?
I think I mean typical radial play.
Sounds like a faulty sprag clutch or a one way bearing. Someone more eloquent probably will be able to write some more convincing answer.
During the cleaning of the largest gear there was some seepage of the brake cleaner trough to temporary covers, some miniscule amout might have ended up on one way bearings, everything seems to be working normally though.
 
Do you have the brake levers with the safety switches? If so push the levers out when this happens. On mine it takes just a tiny bit of pull (too small really) to activate the switches and cut the motor out and the return springs don't always get them where they need to be to run the motor.

itsallwhite said:
I am experiencing the pedals moving forward but not moving motor / drivechain when under load (happens regardless of whether motor is on off) - is this what you mean by axle instability?
 
hi all my first post here.

so ive gotten myself a tsdz2 and its finally on a bike, it wouldnt fit over my whyte 909 bottom bracket (bit over engineered the whytes) so i go myself a nice old santa cruz chameleon and today i fitted it with minimal effort. now to my problem. and i have tried searching the net and read as much of this 183 page epic as i can stand ....so....

i bought the 36v 500w version with the vlcd6 controller.

with a 48v battery the display lights up. the speedo works but the motor never kicks in. im leaving it with no feet on peddles to let the torque sensing set itself up at switch on time. from what ive read the 36v motor is good to go with a 48v battery.

any ideas most welcome.

i do have a variable buck coming in the next few days but its basically just a circuit board and looks a pain to mount.
 
Just my opinion: I had the same problem with a 36v kit and at the end.. after opening the unit it was the torque sensor with one of the two wires unsoldered/broken from the inside.
I had to fix it myself and at the end it was ok.
 
el_proletario said:
Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
Is the cross chain stay bracket flat across them or has it started bowing in which case every time you tighten it will bow a bit more hence why I made a replacement (from a heavy duty flat strap cut into two)
Another source of a creak can be the interface of the fixing block with the underside of the chainstays - fit a bit of rubber there from an old inner tube
Also check the M33 nut is indeed tight - mine has a habit of working loose after just 8 miles unless it is fitted with lock thread, and which then can need the use of a mini blow torch on it to melt the lock thread if the nut is needed to be undone.
 
I first spoke with pswpower to get green light to open the motor casing.. and I immediately saw the loose wire.
No signal from torque sensor equals no drive when pedalling.
Another test you can do: long press the "-" button to activate the walk assist.. mine worked even with the broken torque sensor.. so the conclusion was that the motor gearing was ok
 
la8rat said:
with a 48v battery the display lights up. the speedo works but the motor never kicks in. im leaving it with no feet on peddles to let the torque sensing set itself up at switch on time. from what ive read the 36v motor is good to go with a 48v battery.

any ideas most welcome.

If your 48V battery is fully charged it is out of spec for the 36V motor. Try searching for overdrive firmware. You're going to need to change a couple of bytes or flash the 48V firmware. Haven't done it but others here have
 
Ive tried the walk assist that does not work. So guess torque sensor is fine.

The battery is fully charged.

Is there not an easy safe way to drain a bit from the battery? There must be something i can connect to it that would do this.

Ill put a volt meter on the battery.

Whats the volts point at which the motor should work please?
 
50v light bulb? Rated at 60w looks the size of a normal household lightbuld ?

Ive flashed phones in the past.. but id really just like to make sure the things working before i start messing about with flashing ect.

Cheers for you help
 
Evening folks,

Brilliant site, nice one

I have just ordered a TSDZ2 250W (live in France) for a Decathlon Triban 520 Trekking bike. Need the motor for hills ‘cos a spinal cord tumour, now removed, has taken a lot of strength from my legs.
Question: Will the standard 42 chainring take a chain for a 10 speed Shimano XT cassette (apologies if not clear enough)?

I have tried to search ... probably my skills aren’t there.

Thank you
 
Regarding my problem.

As a vaper i have a bit of knowledge about heating coils and ohms law.

Im going to build a 5 ohms resistance coil that at 50 volts will draw 10 amps and 500 watts. Figure 6 inch of clapton wire will be in the ballpark.

Ill monitor it till im down to 48 volts. Then see if it works.

If for any reason this is an awful idea please let me know.

Should think a few minutes should be enough.
 
La8rat :thumb:
Thank you, I’ll relax ... kit comes Friday from Woosh.
Happy days
Big Vern
Barstewards will never take me alive
 
la8rat said:
Regarding my problem.

As a vaper i have a bit of knowledge about heating coils and ohms law.

Im going to build a 5 ohms resistance coil that at 50 volts will draw 10 amps and 500 watts. Figure 6 inch of clapton wire will be in the ballpark.

Ill monitor it till im down to 48 volts. Then see if it works.

If for any reason this is an awful idea please let me know.

Should think a few minutes should be enough.

Sounds ok - hopefully you have a BMS with the battery pack in case of accidental shorts. You only need to take a couple of volts off the top. Not sure how your charger is connected but if it is a simple two wire you could wire a couple of 5-10W diodes in series to stop the last 5-10% of charge and hence keep the end of charge voltage low enough
 
Cheers mctubster :bigthumb:

Ill look into a more permanent fix once im happy things are working.
Ye battery has a BMS

Ill have to fully charge every few charges to keep it balanced correct?
 
la8rat said:
Cheers mctubster :bigthumb:

Ill look into a more permanent fix once im happy things are working.
Ye battery has a BMS

Ill have to fully charge every few charges to keep it balanced correct?

Unless you have a sick cell and the battery was well made with matched cells very unlikely it will unbalance after many cycles, if at all.

I just double checked, previously people were having issues with the 48V of the motor and fully charged 52V batteries = 58.8V ... which is 10volts over nominal ... from mem they had to get it down a few volts

Not sure anyone has tried 48V battery on 36V motor, but using similar logic you may need to take it down to 44-46V to get it to work

I see a STLINK clone in your future ...
 
Id be happy to buy a controller thats been flashed and has the correct connector on it (6 pin)
By the time ive read pages of info and wrapped my head around it all to the point where i can make it work.. i could have done a few hours overtime and paid someone to do one for me.

Might seem lazy but the amout of time ive wasted learning something i use one time is shocking..
 
Before I reflashed mine to 52V from the 48V firmware it came programmed with I ran it on partially charged 52V batteries that were up to ~55V. It worked fine up to that level... but the battery indicator always showed full.
 
la8rat said:
Id be happy to buy a controller thats been flashed and has the correct connector on it (6 pin)
By the time ive read pages of info and wrapped my head around it all to the point where i can make it work.. i could have done a few hours overtime and paid someone to do one for me.

Might seem lazy but the amout of time ive wasted learning something i use one time is shocking..

You can buy it here - http://www.electrifybike.com/store/c37/TSDZ2_Flexible_Open_Source_Firmware_Products.html
 
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