E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Not sure if I’m in the right thread but I’m wondering if anyone out there knows where I can obtain some shortened cranks for my new bomber? I’ve searched everywhere but no joy. Tia
 
Ironsteed said:
Not sure if I’m in the right thread but I’m wondering if anyone out there knows where I can obtain some shortened cranks for my new bomber? I’ve searched everywhere but no joy. Tia

I doubt they exist, but the VBoxx is made my Suntour.
 
Ironsteed said:
Not sure if I’m in the right thread but I’m wondering if anyone out there knows where I can obtain some shortened cranks for my new bomber? I’ve searched everywhere but no joy. Tia

You are in the right thread, and thats a good question. I have researched and even though the Vbox has an splined bb shaft, its not compatible with any other crank MFG. I have an extra crank set and am considering having a welder chop 10mm of the crank arm length.
 
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.
 
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.
 
So the night before last I wanted to ride, but there was a line of storms coming. After studying the radar I decided they were going to pass to the North of my house, heading away from my location. I decided to ride south. I got about 3 miles from my house when a mean old storm cloud popped up out of nowhere, and started following me. I could feel rain drops falling on my head if I slowed down. 10 miles farther south it was still harassing me, but I was pretty sure I could out ride it. But then as I crossed an intersection, I heard the sound of something small and metallic bouncing on the street. I didn't think too much of it. A couple blocks later my front brake seemed to have lost it's hydraulics. Closer examination in the dark revealed that one of my brake pads was gone.

Before leaving the house, I had just changed my front brake pads, but apparently I forgot to tighten the pin that holds the pads in place. Then I remembered the metallic sound I heard, and rode back to the intersection where it happened. I found the pad sitting in the middle of the street, but the pin is lost forever. That was my last set of pads too. Sure glad our bikes have 2 brakes.

By then the cloud had moved on, but the streets were soaked with water. I'm sure we all know how much our Stealth's love water, but I guess my bling fenders aren't totally useless after all, because the front kept water off my face, and the rear kept enough water off the hall plug that I was able to make it home with no further problems.

The worst part was over night my bike had dirt on it, but the next day I fixed it Allex :wink:
 
I think I'll give this 14T freewheel a try. The only catch is I'll have to give up the regen because the freewheel body is too wide to allow the torque clamp to fit. I think I can live without regen.

13-T-freewheel.jpg


13T.jpg
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
The only catch is I'll have to give up the regen because the freewheel body is too wide to allow the torque clamp to fit. I think I can live without regen
Not necessarily...remember the torque arms I made a while back. I think I might still have one left somewhere.
Want me to dig it up?

Cheers
 
Rix said:
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.

What is everyone doing to keep their motor controllers cool?? I just injected 6mls of ferro fluid to the Crystalyte motor which helped heaps and I’ve ordered some hub sinks. I’ve found some heat sink at Jaycar that will fit onto the controller but it will add like 10cms to the thickness. Pros and cons pls
 
Ironsteed said:
Rix said:
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.

What is everyone doing to keep their motor controllers cool?? I just injected 6mls of ferro fluid to the Crystalyte motor which helped heaps and I’ve ordered some hub sinks. I’ve found some heat sink at Jaycar that will fit onto the controller but it will add like 10cms to the thickness. Pros and cons pls
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
The only catch is I'll have to give up the regen because the freewheel body is too wide to allow the torque clamp to fit. I think I can live without regen
Not necessarily...remember the torque arms I made a while back. I think I might still have one left somewhere.
Want me to dig it up?

Cheers

Thanks CD, I appreciate the offer. I don't think I need it though because I don't like using it. If it becomes an issue I'll let you know.
 
Any tips on bleeding magura mt2 brakes. Do you have to use magura mineral oil or is there something better.
Took a quick ride today.. new battery from Hi-C working beautifully. I had to replace the BMS due to my fault stupidity not paying attention. In a rush plug charge leads into each other and Bam bright blue Ark.
Anyway bikes running fine now.. but only using front brakes and Regen. Today's top speed 51.8mph.
That top speed is with a new December 2017 model motor. My last ride before I blew up the BMS I hit 62mph with original motor from early 2013#238.
I did not change any settings on cav-3. Some guys chimed in that that was impossible with original controller. So what does that mean? 10 mph difference. My original motor it's just freaky fast!!
 
FL bomber said:
Any tips on bleeding magura mt2 brakes. Do you have to use magura mineral oil or is there something better.

FL, the MT2 are easy to bleed. I bought one these bleed kits. Before starting I watched a couple of Youtubes on the subject. One thing all the videos suggest is to remove your brake pads first, or you'll ruin them. So far I disregarded this advise twice, and both times I ruined the pads LOL. You definitely want to use mineral oil, but it doesn't have to be Magura oil. Shimano mineral oil works just as well, and probably any other brand too.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magura-Disc-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Premium-Quality-Genuine-Blood-Fluid-USA-Shipping/290928859838?epid=1459879090&hash=item43bcb61abe:g:u1UAAOxyXWdQ6kGc
 
FL, check your ca and see how many amps it's set for. Mine was set for 60 amps from the factory. I set it to 65 amp, and it accelerates better, but top speed seems the same. What I notice most is higher watts at wot.

This probably has less to do with my new battery, and more to do with the different chemistry, but the stock battery was pulling around 4250-4300 watts both new, and old. The new battery is slightly over 4500w. I never saw that with the stock battery. After changing my ca to 65 amp, now I see close to 4800w hot off the charger.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Allex said:
You will be very surprised how loud your bike actually was once you try out modern sine-wave controllers.
Yup, with ya there Alex. Can't go back to square now, sounds like a steam engine compared to sine. :lol:

TBH, I'm surprised Stealth hasn't moved to a sinewave controller yet...get with the times Stealth, sheesh. :roll:

Cheers

Thats not entirely accurate CD, my last 2 P7 have sinewave controllers.
 
Rix said:
Thats not entirely accurate CD, my last 2 P7 have sinewave controllers.
Good to hear...while they can take their time catching up, I'm guessing it's cause they want a reliable product and time to test before release.

FL bomber said:
Theo.. CDs torque blocks work I ordered a pair last year just finally put them on.
Also good to hear. :)

In case anyone would like to make there own, attached is the original sketchup and STL files.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • Stealth High Power Torque Arm.zip
    468.4 KB · Views: 55
FL are you seeing something approximately like this? This is with my ca set to 65 amp. It was only about 1 amp less with the ca on 60 amp. The stock battery never saw over 67.7 amp.

The watt meter is where the real action is. With the ca set for 60 amp, watts are 4500w with the new battery. Stock it never got above 4350, maybe 4400 rarely. I always thought that's all you get. Now with the ca set for 65 amp I see 4700w continuous, but you're going to have to take my word for that, because I'm not man enough to take a good picture of 4700 watts riding with one hand.


MaxA-1.jpg
 
Hey FL,
Now that is been a little bit you still dig your battery? I have to get one for my bike ...gonna be a few months off yet (september).. but wanted to see if you are happy with the battery performance.. you are still running stock controller etc correct?

Thanks!
 
I'm really happy with my new 24ah battery pack. It's definitely an improvement over the stock battery. The worst thing I can say about it is, I wish it was 30ah. I can't really complain too much though, because the price was right. 5 lbs lighter total weight is nice too, especially with the battery being high up in the frame like it is. Even though the 18650 voltage falls below stock at some point in the discharge, it's never really a factor when compared to the stock battery though, because by the time it becomes noticeable the stock 18ah battery is totally pooped. At that point I still have 6 more amp hours to get me home, even if they aren't quite as energetic as earlier in the charge.

Performance wise this battery produces higher watts, and amps than the stock battery did with the same ca setting. After changing the ca setting from 60 to 65 amp, the watts went up a couple hundred more, and amps went up about 1 1/2 more too. I'm guessing these 30Q cells have a slightly higher discharge rate then the stock cells. I've been keeping a close eye on the temperature of this battery pack after a hard discharge, and what I've been noticing with my infrared thermometer is fairly uniform temperature rise. It's Spring time in Texas, so the ambient temp has only been in the 60s, and 70s, but so far the highest temp I could find was 79 degrees.

After recalibrating my speedometer to take tire wear into account, this was what I last saw trying to keep up with my son on his B52

53-4.jpg
 
Rix said:
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.


update...

Suntour finally got back to me (weeks later) and announced they DO NOT manufacture a 160mm crank for the Vboxx.
However I have seen YouTube vids where guy have had drilled and threaded another hole 10mm lower than the standard on the same crank. Is this crazy talk or totally kosher??



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