Looking for robust 24'' rim

There are a few ways of wording that can be misinterpreted.
Spokes Inward means that the spoke goes inward from the outside = elbows in
Spokes Outward means that the spoke goes from the between the flanges, outward = elbows out

I believe this is why Justin at www.ebikes.ca worded it the way he did, eblows in and eblows out. But I watched TeslaNV get tutored by a master wheel lacer on youtube, and the master builder worded it... Spokes Inward, Spokes Outward.

I just tried to find that video on YouTube. Do you have the link to that video?

hias9 said:

I just tried to find that video on YouTube. Do you have the link to that video?

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It does take a bit of diggin. I just know his first name so I found it quick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZ3Ji72-qM4

Thanks. I finally had time to watch it yesterday. In this video they lace it alternating.

Are there any tools to measure spoke tension for the short spokes used on big hub motors?
Is anybody using such tools?

hias9 said:

Are there any tools to measure spoke tension for the short spokes used on big hub motors?
Is anybody using such tools?

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DT Tensio has closely spaced anvils, and might be able to get into tighter spaces. (Or not, because it sticks out in different places than a Park or Wheelsmith gauge.) It depends on some factors other than spoke length.

I find, as a longtime wheel builder, that many 20" BMX wheels and many hub motor wheels must be tensioned by ear and subjective tool torque feedback, because the tensiometer can't get in there. When I use DT spokes and nipples on hub motors, I often let the first spoke nipple that rounds off when I'm tightening it tell me: that's enough. I replace that one and true the wheel without adding more net tension. Sapim nipples are tougher and can be turned up higher-- too high for many common rims.

In my case, I build so many wheels for which I can use a tensiometer, that it gives me a feel for where I am at with a wheel that can't use one. It's not a helpful approach for an occasional wheel builder, but it works for me.

Here is the heaviest rim made by Ryde : https://www.ryde.nl/andra-40
Available in 32 and 36 holes, and many sizes.
I have them on my Surly Krampus with G310 motor, the thickness of the outter wall is impressive.

It's a BIKE rim though, not a motorbike rim
Not sure if it can handle the power of a 3kW motor.
But for those interested in strong bike rims for reasonnably powered ebikes, I think the Andra 40 is a good choice.

There are other choices for narrower tires (a bit less strong though) : https://www.ryde.nl/-andra-rims

Jil said:

Here is the heaviest rim made by Ryde : https://www.ryde.nl/andra-40
Available in 32 and 36 holes, and many sizes.
I have them on my Surly Krampus with G310 motor, the thickness of the outter wall is impressive.

It's a BIKE rim though, not a motorbike rim
Not sure if it can handle the power of a 3kW motor.

Click to expand...

The power of a 3kW motor is basically insignificant compared to the weight and dynamic loads a wheel is expected to carry. Keep in mind all torsional loads are shared equally among every spoke in the wheel.