My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000
- Thread starter robocam
- Start date
q45denver said:
I just recently installed one of these in a new frame. I have also pulled and installed several of these in the past. Once the nuts are removed from the non chain (left) side, then the bolts just need to be driven out with a hammer and drift punch. I use a 1/4 brass shaft as my punch to make sure I do not damage the bolts upon removal.
Be sure to support the unit if the wiring is still connected. Otherwise it will drop and pull out the wires. Don't ask me how I know this!
competitions
100 W
Hey owners, which size frame for the AM100 and how tall are you? Did it fit you as expected, or did you think a smaller or larger frame would have been better?
[/quote]
I just recently installed one of these in a new frame. I have also pulled and installed several of these in the past. Once the nuts are removed from the non chain (left) side, then the bolts just need to be driven out with a hammer and drift punch. I use a 1/4 brass shaft as my punch to make sure I do not damage the bolts upon removal.
Be sure to support the unit if the wiring is still connected. Otherwise it will drop and pull out the wires. Don't ask me how I know this!
[/quote]
Thanks, I just watched a YouTube video by Backcountry ebikes on how to remove the motor that said the same thing.
I just recently installed one of these in a new frame. I have also pulled and installed several of these in the past. Once the nuts are removed from the non chain (left) side, then the bolts just need to be driven out with a hammer and drift punch. I use a 1/4 brass shaft as my punch to make sure I do not damage the bolts upon removal.
Be sure to support the unit if the wiring is still connected. Otherwise it will drop and pull out the wires. Don't ask me how I know this!
[/quote]
Thanks, I just watched a YouTube video by Backcountry ebikes on how to remove the motor that said the same thing.
5'10'' (178 cm) and I got the M frame size (short ST + 150 mm dropper), very nimble size for me. I do have the seat all the way back and didn't cut the handlebars.
About warranty claims:
I recently broke a tooth of the 48T from my SRAM EX1 groupset, Frey/Ivy had me contact the SRAM S & S for warranty, which was all fine and they'd replace it but apparently, it has to go through the seller. Hence, I had to send the cassette back to China (60 bucks) and been without the bike for a month as it just arrived in China. Hopefully, they figure out how the warranty claims will work smoothly as also other components might need warranty claims. Not even to mention if something is wrong with the suspension. So I have just been going through some old footage and uploaded some to youtube. It seems I cannot find many people posting themselves riding the ultra bikes.
https://youtu.be/_wvaU6Cgc9c
About warranty claims:
I recently broke a tooth of the 48T from my SRAM EX1 groupset, Frey/Ivy had me contact the SRAM S & S for warranty, which was all fine and they'd replace it but apparently, it has to go through the seller. Hence, I had to send the cassette back to China (60 bucks) and been without the bike for a month as it just arrived in China. Hopefully, they figure out how the warranty claims will work smoothly as also other components might need warranty claims. Not even to mention if something is wrong with the suspension. So I have just been going through some old footage and uploaded some to youtube. It seems I cannot find many people posting themselves riding the ultra bikes.
https://youtu.be/_wvaU6Cgc9c
garyal1 said:q45denver said:
I just recently installed one of these in a new frame. I have also pulled and installed several of these in the past. Once the nuts are removed from the non chain (left) side, then the bolts just need to be driven out with a hammer and drift punch. I use a 1/4 brass shaft as my punch to make sure I do not damage the bolts upon removal.
Be sure to support the unit if the wiring is still connected. Otherwise it will drop and pull out the wires. Don't ask me how I know this!
I got the motor out of the frame but still trying to get the nut off as shown in the attached photo. The silver one that says 35 N.M.
Finally the weather is good enough to test my ebike which has a Bafang Ultra 1000W. I want to check out if anyone else has the same issues. The torque sensoring isn't working as I expected, it is very jerky, even if I pedal at the same rate the motor will turn off and on, shouldn't it be smooth?
scrambler
10 kW
It all depends on how it was programed.
The Pedal assist is a mixture of torque and cadence sensing.
The torque sensing is the most natural way to provide power assist as it is proportional to your effort, but could lead to what you describe, in situations like pedaling on flat, when your effort may fluctuate between zero and some, causing the assist to be on and off.
For that reason, the pedal assist also combines input from a cadence sensor, to try and smooth things out in this kind of situation.
How both are blended is a complicated thing that is done with the programming of the assist.
Depending who provided the Motor and programmed it could influence the quality of the experience.
The Pedal assist is a mixture of torque and cadence sensing.
The torque sensing is the most natural way to provide power assist as it is proportional to your effort, but could lead to what you describe, in situations like pedaling on flat, when your effort may fluctuate between zero and some, causing the assist to be on and off.
For that reason, the pedal assist also combines input from a cadence sensor, to try and smooth things out in this kind of situation.
How both are blended is a complicated thing that is done with the programming of the assist.
Depending who provided the Motor and programmed it could influence the quality of the experience.
SunnyDay1
1 mW
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2018
- Messages
- 18
joq3 said:
If you have the programming cable for your ultra, follow this video and see if it helps the on-off torque sensor issues you are having. Be sure to save a backup copy of your original program settings before you start making changes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWCR3iV3d9I
I understand that it might not be perfect on standard settings, but it feels like it doesn't work as expected at all. I actually bought a programming cable and I tested it with the default settings first ( https://imgur.com/a/g9q2X4J ) and then the settings suggested by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWCR3iV3d9I and it is the same thing.scrambler said:
Yes, I actually have a programming cable, and I tried with the default settings before trying to modify them. (Here's my default settings https://imgur.com/a/g9q2X4J ). Then I tried the settings from the video you linked and I still get the same feeling.SunnyDay1 said:
I feel no difference between the modes either, the Sport and Eco feels almost the same and almost no difference in help when switching through 1-5. Does anyone have a setup that works for them? And I will try it with my bike. I have no error codes (so we can rule that out).
Thank you!
scrambler
10 kW
Can you describe in more details under what pedaling condition you get that.
For example, if you are going uphill putting constant pressure on the pedals, does it cut off and on?
Be as detailed as possible on all the different situation it happens.
For example, if you are going uphill putting constant pressure on the pedals, does it cut off and on?
Be as detailed as possible on all the different situation it happens.
scrambler said:
I will try it again tomorrow afternoon. I just did some testing in my house with the bike and I noticed a weird thing. The throttle I have on the bike which is this model ( https://electricfatbike.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/left-thumb-throttle-500x500.jpg ) will stop working when I go past 70% throttle and the brake light will turn on. Which means it is sending some kind of signal to the engine to cut power to the motor when I go past this. Maybe it is related to the other issues I am noticing.
At first I thought this was because the End voltage was set to 36, so I measured my throttle handle with a multimeter and measured it to be 0,83V Start voltage and 4,14V End voltage. I reprogrammed the Bafang to Start voltage 11 and End voltage 42. But this did not solve my issue.
What is happening, why is it not letting me get past 70% throttle? I checked to see that the brake cutoffs weren't on, and they aren't. They only engage when I press the brake. And I also have a gear sensor, which I also checked (it has a blue LED that lights up on gear-change) and it functions as it should.
SunnyDay1
1 mW
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2018
- Messages
- 18
joq3 said:
I have that same throttle on my AM1000 and it works great, better than the one that comes on the bike. It also moves the controller button closer to the hand grip which makes it easier to get your thumb on it.
Have you tried unplugging your throttle and two brake cutoffs then test riding your bike to see if it corrects the issue? If it doesn't correct the issue then you can eliminate the brake cutoffs and throttle causing problems.
Attachments
No, mine is an Ansbern, this one: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-48V-1000W-Mid-Drive-full_60792141560.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.49.576e643ecWbVUbNoFanBoiz said:
The reason I am here is that this is the only active thread on the Bafang Ultra anywhere. And my bike and the Frey share many components.
Yes, I really like the new throttle. I did some quick testing this morning, unplugged both brake cutoffs and that fixed the issue. So I replugged one at a time and the conclusion is that the brake cutoff for the front brake causes this issue, I have no idea why though, if it is a faulty cutoff or if a cable is frayed, but why would it only happen on about 70% throttle?SunnyDay1 said:
I haven't had the time to test if this solves my other issues, but I will investigate tonight!
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