bergerandfries
1 W
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2019
- Messages
- 59
Agreed, I don't feel like I gave up a thing by "voiding my warranty"el_proletario said:
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
graham.m.mcintyre
1 µW
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2019
- Messages
- 2
bergerandfries said:
Thanks, that sounds like a very similar build! Yeah, I think the touring bike will be good for 95% of the things I do and I think I will go with the 750 W. Last question, is there a particular reason you chose the 52 V version over the 48 V? I recognize the 52 V should give a little more pep, but is it really that much of a difference? And are there any other pertinent reasons that I should go with a 52 V motor rather than a 48 V that I may be missing?
Ok, greetings from Greece! 
I am a happy owner of the TSDZ2 750W too!
I need some simple advice:
What settings should I change to optimize the power and how?
My bike is a 700c trekking and i use it to commute.
48V 10,4AH Battery.
I do the 30km daily comute and it is almost 50% down.
Right now, I use the out-of-the-box default settings and mostly do pedal-assisted commuting.
I would like to remove the 25kph limit and provide a little more power than the default (if possible)
I read somewhere that I can set the max Amper?
Is this true?
Any recommendations will be highly appreciated!
I am a happy owner of the TSDZ2 750W too!
I need some simple advice:
What settings should I change to optimize the power and how?
My bike is a 700c trekking and i use it to commute.
48V 10,4AH Battery.
I do the 30km daily comute and it is almost 50% down.
Right now, I use the out-of-the-box default settings and mostly do pedal-assisted commuting.
I would like to remove the 25kph limit and provide a little more power than the default (if possible)
I read somewhere that I can set the max Amper?
Is this true?
Any recommendations will be highly appreciated!
el_proletario
10 mW
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2019
- Messages
- 27
nomidis said:Ok, greetings from Greece!
I am a happy owner of the TSDZ2 750W too!
I need some simple advice:
What settings should I change to optimize the power and how?
My bike is a 700c trekking and i use it to commute.
48V 10,4AH Battery.
I do the 30km daily comute and it is almost 50% down.
Right now, I use the out-of-the-box default settings and mostly do pedal-assisted commuting.
I would like to remove the 25kph limit and provide a little more power than the default (if possible)
I read somewhere that I can set the max Amper?
Is this true?
Any recommendations will be highly appreciated!
Here you go :
https://youtu.be/RlMZTA36elQ
Put the 25kmh limit on off and increase speed limit (SD step).
Be careful as it's illegal in the EU. I don't know how is the police dealing with ebikes in Greece but better to not drive too fast in busy areas.
el_proletario said:
Never went through the troubles of changing it, but im 99.9% sure it's either one or both bearings of the first reduction (where the blue gear is). I'm not sure though how much noise it would reduce; part of it - at least on my motor - is due to high manufacturing tolerances; there is nearly 0.5mm between the bearings and the casing, which means more vibrations, and more noise. Maybe another bearing would also come slightly larger and fix this issue too ?
bergerandfries
1 W
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2019
- Messages
- 59
I went with the 52V because higher voltage=less heat generation in the motor. I wanted to keep the amperes as low as I could; the 52V is supported, so I picked it over the 48V. I also try to use the assist only on climbs/windy sections and turn it off on downhill sections so that the motor can cool off. I haven't installed the temperature sensor yet, so I'm being cautious for now, and frankly the bike is heavy enough that it goes plenty fast downhill without assist!graham.m.mcintyre said:
Retrorockit
1 kW
Here's a 42T offset TSDZ2 chainring with Narrow/Wide feature.Pedrito said:
Here is my 8 speed 26" road setup. I tried a lot of different casettes etc. But going from my 50t ring to your 42t may be all that's needed. Rapid rise is a hot street setup, but not for climbing under load.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/73463-gary-fisher-solsitice-bbshd-project
https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p65/42_Tooth_Narrow%2FWide_CNC_7075_T6_Chainring_%2810mm_offset%29_for_TSDZ2.html#/
Hi all,
I just the TSDZ2 a few days ago, and haven't done more than a couple of km for a test run. I've got a issue where the entire axle in the crank is a bit loose so that the crank arms wobble when you pull in them, and it makes a tick sound every turn of the pedals when you ride it. I've made sure everything else is tightened properly, but you can still se the axle moving when you yank the arms back and forth.
Is there any way this can be tightened/adjusted or should I return it?
Edit: The clicking probably was the pedal that didn't work properly after the winter, and it got better after a while. A bit less worried now. The axle still flexes but now it doesn't feel like it will fall apart any moment.
Thanks,
Ancan
I just the TSDZ2 a few days ago, and haven't done more than a couple of km for a test run. I've got a issue where the entire axle in the crank is a bit loose so that the crank arms wobble when you pull in them, and it makes a tick sound every turn of the pedals when you ride it. I've made sure everything else is tightened properly, but you can still se the axle moving when you yank the arms back and forth.
Is there any way this can be tightened/adjusted or should I return it?
Edit: The clicking probably was the pedal that didn't work properly after the winter, and it got better after a while. A bit less worried now. The axle still flexes but now it doesn't feel like it will fall apart any moment.
Thanks,
Ancan
This thing with the looseness of the axle is what i see as well. I got my kit 2 weeks now and i have done 80 km so far.
The effect is not so big. Does not feel near falling apart at all, but i feel a slight looseness on my feet when i pedal.
If i try stationary to move the crank arm in and out, I feel a movement of a milimiter or maybe less. Not on the center of the axle. On the edge of the crank arm.
Is this expected? Normal?
The effect is not so big. Does not feel near falling apart at all, but i feel a slight looseness on my feet when i pedal.
If i try stationary to move the crank arm in and out, I feel a movement of a milimiter or maybe less. Not on the center of the axle. On the edge of the crank arm.
Is this expected? Normal?
eyebyesickle
10 kW
If the axle is a bit loose, you can remove the gasket/seal on the non drive side, and insert a washer or two behind the lock ring... then re-insert the lock ring... may be a task to get as tight as you want, but I assure you, if you get it tight, it removes the problem. Several people have tried and did not find this to be so, but I can confirm if you insert the correct amount of washers and refit the lock ring (I repeat, can be a task) then this will remove the play.
I can upload a demonstration file later if needed...
I can upload a demonstration file later if needed...
eyebyesickle
10 kW
So remove the seal on the non drive side:
then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
Washer size / part info to follow...
then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
Washer size / part info to follow...
eyebyesickle said:
I'm a bit ambivalent to this. You're applying longitudinal pressure to remedy lateral flex, and I suspect the reason it works is because you put pressure on the inner part of the bearing while the outer part is fixed, and the balls will be squeezed between the two cups. These bearings aren't made to take sideway forces and I will probably cause it to wear prematurely. But I'm not an engineer, so I might be wrong.
If it's the bearing that causes the flex, could it possibly be replaced with a quality bearing instead?
Having too wobbling crank axle. Got my 250w kit installed week ago and after 150km ride noticed cranks wobbling. First thought cranks were loose but after checking found they are tight but axle is loose.
Short video https://youtu.be/7iOWg5nUjfo
Today asked from pswpower about this and they replied wobbling to be normal. It is a bit irritating so perhaps need to try that washer tinkering...
Thinking to make open source firmware upgrade but perhaps will wait a bit because it will stop warranty. My unit sw version is 3.6. In LCD5 manual were 3.7. What you have - can it be updated?
Short video https://youtu.be/7iOWg5nUjfo
Today asked from pswpower about this and they replied wobbling to be normal. It is a bit irritating so perhaps need to try that washer tinkering...
Thinking to make open source firmware upgrade but perhaps will wait a bit because it will stop warranty. My unit sw version is 3.6. In LCD5 manual were 3.7. What you have - can it be updated?
jtsavola said:
Looks like mine:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mLghqp4QBk8FuQKn9
I also asked, and got the reply that it's normal. Let's hope it holds together.
I'm definitely going with the open source firmware. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the warranty you get from Chinese retailers aint really what you get in EU/US anyway. I'm enjoying the motor so far, but have some things I hope is better with the other f/w.
- I don't believe I have that fast cadence, but the motor really stops helping when I'm up in my normal cadence, and when it get's heavy up-hill I get more help from moving up a couple of gears which doesn't feel right.
- ...and in those situation the throttle is useless. It doesn't give you a push in any way - just a one second of hesitation where there's no power at all, and then a weak push that is nothing more than if you just kept on pedalling.
eyebyesickle
10 kW
cnrd said:
Different main gear w/ no clutch and a different controller...
eyebyesickle
10 kW
casainho said:
No sorry, you'll have to take my word for it on this one... I didn't take pictures etc but confirmed visually and through reprogramming that there were differences... I'm quite certain.
Retrorockit
1 kW
Just looking at it I see cooling fins. I also see the plastic 2nd drive side cover is now part of the housing. I gained some room there, but without measuring I can't tell if this is better or not. They went to 44t chainring which is what I had to do to get a decent chainline for my Shimano IGH bike. So maybe it's better in that regard. The 44t ring might be worth having for a TSDZ2 if it sits down around the pinion bump. This assumes it's a TS product and has compatable bolt patterns.casainho said:TSDZ2 / TongSheng new motor version??
I just saw on PSWPower site, it is on category of TSDZ2 but has a different name... what you guys know / think??
See here: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2019-3p-953s
