Light Electro Bobber (short version)

Connected wiring,Bought a smartphone (Digma Linx A400 3G -$ 15) for the speedometer(smart bms)
https://youtu.be/H6DcQMO03LU
 

Attachments

  • smart-bms-10s13s-60a-with-blue-tooth-android-or-ios-app.jpg
    smart-bms-10s13s-60a-with-blue-tooth-android-or-ios-app.jpg
    16.5 KB · Views: 2,800
Wow, that's an amazing build, kudos!

We need more pics and more descriptions, don't be shy!

I'd like to build this kind of flat sheet frames one day, but I always wondered: how do you attach the main tube for the front fork ? (sorry, I'm not sure how it is called in english, I mean the tube with the bearings which connect the frame to the steering column?)

I believe that's the critical part to get right, would you mind explaining how you did it?
 
Dui said:
Wow, that's an amazing build, kudos!

We need more pics and more descriptions, don't be shy!

I'd like to build this kind of flat sheet frames one day, but I always wondered: how do you attach the main tube for the front fork ? (sorry, I'm not sure how it is called in english, I mean the tube with the bearings which connect the frame to the steering column?)

I believe that's the critical part to get right, would you mind explaining how you did it?
Hi!Thanks.
So
parts are made on a milling machine
 

Attachments

  • 20190403_160300_Film1[1].jpg
    20190403_160300_Film1[1].jpg
    112.4 KB · Views: 2,757
cut and fitted a leather seat
 

Attachments

  • 20190403_103453_Film1[1].jpg
    20190403_103453_Film1[1].jpg
    160.7 KB · Views: 2,755
  • 20190403_160204_Film1[1].jpg
    20190403_160204_Film1[1].jpg
    183.9 KB · Views: 2,755
  • 20190403_160336_Film1[1].jpg
    20190403_160336_Film1[1].jpg
    62.3 KB · Views: 2,755
Alexander1971 said:
parts are made on a milling machine

That's a clever solution, it doesn't seem to require any welding.
Great work, can't wait to see it finished!
 
Seat ready.......)
 

Attachments

  • 20190404_183550_Film1[1].jpg
    20190404_183550_Film1[1].jpg
    132.2 KB · Views: 2,731
  • 20190404_183618_Film1[1].jpg
    20190404_183618_Film1[1].jpg
    151.8 KB · Views: 2,731
Motor burned out! Rotor rubbed against stator walls and overheated windings
 

Attachments

  • 20190411_181953_Film1[1].jpg
    20190411_181953_Film1[1].jpg
    185.7 KB · Views: 2,665
Sorry to read about the motor. What do you think the weakness was...poorly centered bearing cup, inadequate bearing support, a loose wire in the winding?

Am I looking at the pictures correctly and the headtube piece is only bolted to the frame, or is it welded? I'm always terrified of a failure in that area and opt for overkill in my welded connections.
 
John in CR said:
Sorry to read about the motor. What do you think the weakness was...poorly centered bearing cup, inadequate bearing support, a loose wire in the winding?

Am I looking at the pictures correctly and the headtube piece is only bolted to the frame, or is it welded? I'm always terrified of a failure in that area and opt for overkill in my welded connections.
Thanks.
It was displaced rotor axis (cover from another motor).
In the motor housing I made 3 inserts 10mm + the axis of the pendulum 12mm passes through the motor housing in (the motor housing had 4 through holes 10mm).
 
I've been thinking about your battery layout, and I have some concern regarding the lack of compression applied to the individual cells. Every electric car battery I've disassembled has had compression force on the 2 faces of the cells. It is an important part of the battery structure affecting both capacity and cycle life.
 
John in CR said:
I've been thinking about your battery layout, and I have some concern regarding the lack of compression applied to the individual cells. Every electric car battery I've disassembled has had compression force on the 2 faces of the cells. It is an important part of the battery structure affecting both capacity and cycle life.
The aluminum case of the battery has good durability.
 
Alexander1971 said:
John in CR said:
I've been thinking about your battery layout, and I have some concern regarding the lack of compression applied to the individual cells. Every electric car battery I've disassembled has had compression force on the 2 faces of the cells. It is an important part of the battery structure affecting both capacity and cycle life.
The aluminum case of the battery has good durability.

In my experience they all swell, and I'm talking about prismatics, not just pouch cells. At a minimum be alert for it and check early in the life for any changes with a caliper. If you notice a change, then make some wedges of a light but rigid material to fit in between with a tight fit when the pack is at a fairly deep DOD (The width dimension changes a bit with SOC).
 
Changed the winding scheme and filled with heat-conducting compound.
 

Attachments

  • 20190422_144053_HDR_Film1[1].jpg
    20190422_144053_HDR_Film1[1].jpg
    204.7 KB · Views: 2,500
:bigthumb:
 

Attachments

  • 20190422_214527_Film1[1].jpg
    20190422_214527_Film1[1].jpg
    108 KB · Views: 2,487
  • 20190422_214554_Film1[1].jpg
    20190422_214554_Film1[1].jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 2,487
Replaced the drive pulley from 18 to 14 teeth.
Configured correctly sensors Hall.
Maximum motor temperature 60 degrees Celsius (battery current 80amper, current phase 140amper)
 
Back
Top