Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Kapton tape is nice in that it does not live residue if peeled off.

But is there any other real benefit of using it on the battery over regular packing tape which is much stronger and cheaper?

Packing tape is cheaper, not sure if it is stronger. I just thought temperature resistance could be an advantage somehow

What happens to the glue residue from the tape when it heats up to ~50°c?

L3chef said:

What happens to the glue residue from the tape when it heats up to ~50°c?

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50c temp isn't enough to weaken it enough to lose its bond. Would probably have to go a higher. Clear tape is good, but not for the first layer because of it leaving the residue if you need to remove the tape. I had to spend hours cleaning up my battery from using regular scotch tape over many of my cells to secure the wires, and then I needed to weld on top of the nickel. This is also only an issue if you need to solder or weld to the pack again, if you don't plan on doing this then it doesn't matter either if residue is left on the nickel.

I use kapton tape now as my first layer, then I use packing tape over the kapton tape. This really adds a lot of support to the pack, it especially adds a lot of support to the cells at the edge and corners of the pack. It also holds the kapton tape securely because kapton tape doesn't stick so strong ,not nearly as strong as scotch tape or packing tape.

What happens is the cell hot glue will hold the cells tightly to the cell wrapping, but the cell wrapping will actually tear, basically the cell will rip right out of the cell wrapping and the hot glue will still be holding the cell wrapping.

The tape gives some extra support to these cells at the edges.

Here is an example on my pack on how the cell pushed right through the cell wrapping at the corner. Clear packing tape or even scotch tape would have reinforced this enough so that it wouldn't rip out.

Actually I had to use lots of scotch tape to secure this cell and fix it.Now it is as tight as ever to the pack.

Build update...
Asked a bike shop to help with the lacing of front and back rims and installing the BB.
I just finished installing the fork (still need to see if flat upper crown fits better and then to cut the steerer tube), stem, headset, swing arm, seat and rear shock, it finally shows a hint that one day it might be a bike :lol:.



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hgclobo said:

Build update...
Asked a bike shop to help with the lacing of front and back rims and installing the BB.
I just finished installing the fork (still need to see if flat upper crown fits better and then to cut the steerer tube), stem, headset, swing arm, seat and rear shock, it finally shows a hint that one day it might be a bike :lol:.

IMG_7349.jpg

IMG_7348.jpg

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IMG_7357.jpg

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Envy with green. I like it.

update :
first run, and it is NOICE ! I got a lot more torque and top speed that what I had before, and the thing is dead silent !
here it is with side plate removed and charging :


I cleaned up the headset a bit. I only have a thumb throttle and voltage indicator.


headlight still need some wiring. I 3d printed an enclosure for a switch and I'm going to paint it black


I'm a little worried about battery pack vibrations. Pack is compressed with foam and I'm confident it won't move laterally. I'm more worried about vertical movement. I also put some foam but it's hard to pack it and then to put the battery in and still have it compressed enough to push the pack to the bottom.
I'm thinking of drilling the top plate and having a screw that pushes a wood block that I can thighten AFTER the battery is inside the frame kind of like this :

not sure if I am over thinking it or if there are simpler ways... I'm welcome to inputs on this

No matter what foam you used it will eventually shrink. It takes a while if using closed cell foam. Hopefully you really had to force the battery into the foam and started with a really tight fit.

I found that even after 2 years the battery was still somewhat compressed. Even if the pack has a little vibrations, I don't think it is a big deal.

That is a really good idea if you could make something that can adjust the compression but I would worry about it pressing on one part of the pack too much.

Honestly, I would just open up one of the side cover every few months and just see if the pack has any play in it. It really shouldn't The reason is the foam should fill in the space between the cells and hold the pack fairly tight. if the foam shrinks any the foam at the top should expand and push down on the pack, taking up any of the slack.

If the pack becomes loose, then just push in a little more foam strips at the top to compress it again.

First time I actually used my ebike to commute to my new job, mostly because I haven't had a job in years.

Not bad, I take the bike right on the ferry boat I need to take into manhattan and they don't even care.

I ride the bike right up the west side highway, not really a highway on the southern part because of all the traffic lights, squeeze right through any traffic, save money by not having to pay tolls when driving in.

I'm lucky because I can easily park the bike at my job.

Offroader said:

First time I actually used my ebike to commute to my new job, mostly because I haven't had a job in years.

Not bad, I take the bike right on the ferry boat I need to take into manhattan and they don't even care.

I ride the bike right up the west side highway, not really a highway on the southern part because of all the traffic lights, squeeze right through any traffic, save money by not having to pay tolls when driving in.

I'm lucky because I can easily park the bike at my job.

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Aha lucky you!
Did you take the chance to tell them who we are and what we do in Endless sphere forum?
I am sure they have already asked you.

The bike gets loads of attention, many people stop and ask about it. The bike isn't all that big considering the amount of power and battery capacity it has.

first real ride

I still have to sort the controller wiring situation down there, and basically all sorts of cable management.

I tried to keep the headset as clean as possible with only a throttle with voltage and a switch for the lights (no cycle analyst).


I switched to a magura MT5 brake on the rear wheel and I have to shorten the brake cable.

overall I'm quite happy with the build, nice speed and torque (much more than what I had before) with more or less the same size, and totally silent (more silent than before as I didn't bother with pedals and chain)

Nice,

how did you mount the foot pegs? Have the moved or swivel on the bottom bracket?

If they did I have a fix for that. I'm not sure if they updated the design because I did contact qulbix about it.

No matter how tight I made them they would twist a little.

I didn't really focus on that. I don't think they moved though. Not sure if they changed the design either... Did you try to use blue loctite or blue silicon? (or even red loctite if you don't plan to remove them)

hgclobo said:

Build update...

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1 month build update...

So im basically done! I'm having a big headache fitting the front wheel on the fork axel, its suppose to be the easiest thing to do on all of the build but I can't seem to align the hub correctly or most probably the hub is not the perfect size for the fork, it seems that its just off by less than a hair width but still it doesn't fit. Besides the front wheel problem I still have some other basic stuff to do like installing gear shifter, chain and rear/front lights.

Here some pics.

As for the batteries i'm using a 21s1p configuration of model SPIM08HP (https://batteryhookup.com/collections/lithium-polymer-lipo-cells-and-batteries/products/4-200a-lithium-polymer-3-7v-8ah-flat-pouch-cells-lipo-batteries), at the moment when I was building the three 7s packs I didn't have any 8 gauge wire so I used two 12 gauge cables, its not the same but I think it works, I first soldered them with XT90 connectors but then changed them to 8mm bullet connectors.

I cut the motor cables to size, and made all of the MQCON software setup including the hall sensor test, installed the ANT BMS and motor cutoff (brake cable) with switches in the handlebar and downloaded the VBMS app to my tablet.

Also, just a couple of small (vertical ) videos of it working.
https://youtu.be/FueRcR7rwrg
https://youtu.be/VF6vyz_EkvQ

frontwheel has 20mm axle also? fork is 20, front hub should also...

nice cells....is this your finish configuration? it smells like the next lipo fire here.

If the 20mm axle fits through the hub and fork independently, then just force everything together. The fork legs should bend a bit or move up to get the axle through?

So, both the fork and hub are 20mm but the problem was that the outer diameter of the hub axel was a bit bigger than the outer diameter of the fork so even though both holes were the same diameter they weren't lining up, didn't want to do this but I had to file down just a tad on one side of the outer walls of the hub axel.

Merlin said:

nice cells....is this your finish configuration? it smells like the next lipo fire here.

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:lol: Yeap, i've seen those bikes up in flames, i'm thinking of a quick way to get into the battery compartment and being able to yank out the batts if I ever see smoke coming out but 1) not sure if im gonna have the time since they go up in flame super fast (iv'e had lipo fires before, while charging, inside my house and its not pretty at all) 2) supposing I access the batteries in time, im not sure if im gonna be able to stick my hand in there with all them flames and yank'em out and 3) im thinking small strong magnets to hold one of the side covers but not sure if they are gonna be able to hold while riding hard. I'm still gonna try, pictures when done...

My idea is to use this batt configuration for a while until I find some 30Q cells and build a 20s12p.

Oh and yesterday was my first ride! I rode it 5mins to the bike shop because I don't have a torque wrench to tighten all of the screws to specs or the tools for the chain and also brakes need adjusting.

Did I hear this right, you want to stick your hand and pull the batteries out if there is smoke :lol: ? Just let it burn at that point.

Magnets will not hold those covers on.

If you have a fire it will be contained in the case but you will get a crap load of smoke.

Your best bet is to make sure the cells are not getting squeezed and punctured. You really have to spend a lot of time securing everything in there. I was never able to do this properly with lipo cells and always had puffed cells. This is why I only use 18650, much better.

Offroader said:

Did I hear this right, you want to stick your hand and pull the batteries out if there is smoke :lol: ? Just let it burn at that point.

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:lol: You heard right :lol: believe it or not i've done it before, getting exploding lipos out of my house so it wouldn't burn my house to the ground, but one thing for sure is that it was waay smaller lipos for rc airplanes, with this bigger power batteries it might be smart not to stick my hand in there, but when push comes to shove it evaluate :lol:.

Offroader said:

If you have a fire it will be contained in the case but you will get a crap load of smoke.

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Is that right? I though it would fry everything, I mean ALL of the bike.

Offroader said:

Your best bet is to make sure the cells are not getting squeezed and punctured. You really have to spend a lot of time securing everything in there. I was never able to do this properly with lipo cells and always had puffed cells. This is why I only use 18650, much better.

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You're right, its kinda hard to get everything snug in there and batts moving around will definitely start damaging them.

It is just funny to think about pulling cells out while the cells are smoking or burning. I wasn't laughing at the idea but actually picturing trying to rip smoking cells out. I had a 20 amp LTO cell vent outside and the thing didn't catch fire but the venting was so strong the cell fired like a rocket across my yard. Thick hot smoke was spraying out for a long time. I actually purposely overcharged this thing to see if it would catch fire because LTO cells are not suppose to catch fire.

It is worth a try but they quickly will set other cells on fire quickly. I would probably at that point just leave the case closed up and carry the whole bike outside so the smoke vents outside.

A fire would just destroy the cells it shouldn't spread further. It may overheat the controller at the bottom.

Here are some videos if you didn't see them already. They had the controller in the bike, better if you put it at the bottom of the bike for many reasons, including it overheats easily inside the frame. Most of the components will be fine. Your house will be damaged from the smoke.

[youtube]tRUC_05KmkU[/youtube]

[youtube]L9DE-EZ_Mfk[/youtube]

After 2 years i have decided to put in a Bluetooth BMS to my old Pack, however the Cables are sticking out of the Packs width.. What should I do resolder?

I read through most of the thread but didn't see anyone post measurements of the frame. What are the inner dimensions of the Q76R frame?

Baron said:

I read through most of the thread but didn't see anyone post measurements of the frame. What are the inner dimensions of the Q76R frame?

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Their website has a Drawing you can DL.

does this help ? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=74286&start=75#p1152163