Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

I hear these long rants about forks and quality and durability and dream about 10 meter jumps you are doing with you bikes. I think it is time to begin posting what we are talking about. For example, here is how I twisted my DNM forks. I can re-clamp them but after any other big hit they come back to twisted position. Anyway, I'm happy with them because is what I can afford and ride without fear of trashing more money than I can spend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr-LoRFEBxM&feature=youtu.be&t=457

If you check the video, my front tire was flat, that was one problem when braking, the other problem where between the seat and the handlebars.

And here is how I broke a Marzocchi 380 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYrMMuwD9jI
One leg got stuck and I had to pull it out and remove one bushing (the bottle was slightly bent breaking bushing alignment). It works until this day with 3 bushings and I don't feel any play :lol:
 
Tommm said:
You can get a host of different spring strengths on ebay for x-fusion:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=rv1+spring

For the sur ron you might need a firm or x-firm, or a xx-firm if you plan on jumping it. They come with the normal strength as new unless specified.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes, it is a good idea to change the spring rate. Most people never do this because they don't know how and they never opened up their fork before. Many times its hard to get any good you tube videos on how to service the fork, especially if you do not have a very common fork.

This is the one advantage of an air spring is that you can easily change your spring rate. I sometimes do drops to flat ground and easily bottom out the fork. It will be nice to mess around with the air spring PSI to see if it makes landing these high jumps any easier.

When I had my hub motor bike the heavy hub motor used to just kill the rear suspension to the point that it wasn't worth messing around too much with the suspension because it so limited you on what the bike could do. That extra 25-30 LBS of weight in the rear wheel just killed the bike and limited its performance because once that rear tire hit anything it would violently throw up the rear of the bike.

With the Sur-Ron you are not limited or bottle necked by this anymore so you can start to mess more around with the suspension.
 
Got pulled over by a cop today. I was going down my street almost to my house when I heard the siren whoop and the lights were flashing. I pulled into my driveway and the cop got out of his car. I asked "what's up?". He asked me "how many CCs is that thing?" I said "it's electric. It's got insurance and a plate". He said "I didn't see any turn signals or anything on it". I said "sure it's got turn signals" and switched on the ignition and turned on the turn signal and showed him. He said "Oh, it's all integrated into the tail light". Then he said "the speed limit on this road is 25. You were going 35-36mph" I said "I'll keep it down". He got back in his car and drove off.

There's no way I was going that fast really. Maybe 30mph. I'll have to watch the rear view better from now on...
 
fechter said:
Got pulled over by a cop today. I was going down my street almost to my house when I heard the siren whoop and the lights were flashing. I pulled into my driveway and the cop got out of his car. I asked "what's up?". He asked me "how many CCs is that thing?" I said "it's electric. It's got insurance and a plate". He said "I didn't see any turn signals or anything on it". I said "sure it's got turn signals" and switched on the ignition and turned on the turn signal and showed him. He said "Oh, it's all integrated into the tail light". Then he said "the speed limit on this road is 25. You were going 35-36mph" I said "I'll keep it down". He got back in his car and drove off.

There's no way I was going that fast really. Maybe 30mph. I'll have to watch the rear view better from now on...
Click to expand...

Yikes! Which turn signals / brake light do you use? I need to add them.
 
n2mb said:
Yikes! Which turn signals / brake light do you use? I need to add them.
Click to expand...


Adding turn signals and brake lights was a bit challenging, but not too hard. Lots of wires.
You can see what I did here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=96292&start=25

Technically, I think it's legal to ride without turn signals during the daytime if you use hand signals, at least it used to be many years ago.

I'm sure the cop saw me whiz by and thought it was some kid on an unlicensed dirt bike, which is not uncommon in my area. My rear battery makes it hard to see the plate unless you are directly behind the bike. I might have to see about making the plate more visible on my setup.
 
fechter said:
n2mb said:
Yikes! Which turn signals / brake light do you use? I need to add them.
Click to expand...


Adding turn signals and brake lights was a bit challenging, but not too hard. Lots of wires.
You can see what I did here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=96292&start=25

Technically, I think it's legal to ride without turn signals during the daytime if you use hand signals, at least it used to be many years ago.

I'm sure the cop saw me whiz by and thought it was some kid on an unlicensed dirt bike, which is not uncommon in my area. My rear battery makes it hard to see the plate unless you are directly behind the bike. I might have to see about making the plate more visible on my setup.
Click to expand...

Great! I saw that light. Is the brake light bright enough? I bought a similar one, but it is super dim.
 
n2mb said:
Great! I saw that light. Is the brake light bright enough? I bought a similar one, but it is super dim.
Click to expand...

I took mine apart and re-configured the LEDs. Originally the brake just made the tail LEDs a little brighter by going through a different resistor. Now I have fewer LEDs lit on tail and additional LEDs light up on brake so there is a size change in addition to a brightness change. Much more noticeable when the brake comes on.

Caution: the switches in the brake levers can't handle much current. Over about 100mA and the contacts can stick. For higher powered lights, use a transistor to boost it or a small relay.
 
fechter said:
n2mb said:
Great! I saw that light. Is the brake light bright enough? I bought a similar one, but it is super dim.
Click to expand...

I took mine apart and re-configured the LEDs. Originally the brake just made the tail LEDs a little brighter by going through a different resistor. Now I have fewer LEDs lit on tail and additional LEDs light up on brake so there is a size change in addition to a brightness change. Much more noticeable when the brake comes on.

Caution: the switches in the brake levers can't handle much current. Over about 100mA and the contacts can stick. For higher powered lights, use a transistor to boost it or a small relay.
Click to expand...

Yup, I'm adding a mosfet. What voltage do you get with the brakes pressed and not pressed? And are the two brakes shorted internally to combine to one signal?
 
n2mb said:
Yup, I'm adding a mosfet. What voltage do you get with the brakes pressed and not pressed? And are the two brakes shorted internally to combine to one signal?
Click to expand...

The brake lever switches are both in parallel. One side goes to the 12v dc-dc converter output. Other side goes to the controller (high level brake input). Goes high when you pull the lever. I put my LED brake light from the controller side of the switch to ground. You could drive a FET gate directly with 12v.

On my light, the brake and tail have a common negative ground. This means the switch booster needs to be on the high side.

Here's one way to do it using a transistor in a follower circuit.

Brake Switch Booster 1.jpg
 
I can report that the BMS has extremely low quiescent current. Broke my leg 4 months ago (so no riding lately) and the battery has been sitting for at least 6 months total now with hardly a drop to the voltage or % on the display. I've been monitoring monthly. Very pleased.
 
To build a own battery pack would cells from a Tesla module be a option? Came across a module from a P85 for 700 euros which I could use to build 2 packs in the end.
 
My Sur-Ron came with the DNM forks and they were a little sticky. I had this stuff that I bought in Lidl laying around, so I tried
spraying it on the stanchions. It actually helped to a degree and the fork is now smoother :)
s5ZO8Hr.jpg
 
Let us know how they are!

Allex said:
210cells is whats really fits inside with honeycomb layout and holders(for safety)
This will be a 16s13p so 39Ah instead of stock 32Ah with some good cells
Click to expand...

Finally done with this and went with 30Q cells
Here is the voltage sag comparison
Before, 6.14V sag
IMG_6220.jpg

After, 2.67v
IMG_6409.jpg

This gives you a bit more Watts in total so on a fully charged stock bike I should have 4600W and with 30Q pack 4800W
 
Since your new pack has ~half the sag, you should be able to draw double the power from it (for same cell stress/heating).

Time for a controller upgrade!!! :) That motor loves to eat big power!!!
 
Yeah I am with you on that one Luke! Did you install another breaker on the ASI bike?
The battery was pain in the ass to build, really tight when all the cables needs to be tucked in on top of the case.
 
Allex said:
Let us know how they are!

Allex said:
210cells is whats really fits inside with honeycomb layout and holders(for safety)
This will be a 16s13p so 45Ah instead of stock 32Ah with some good cells
Click to expand...

Finally done with this and went with 30Q cells
Here is the voltage sag comparison
Before, 6.14V sag
IMG_6220.jpg

After, 2.67v
IMG_6409.jpg

This gives you a bit more Watts in total so on a fully charged stock bike I should have 4600W and with 30Q pack 4800W
Click to expand...

I'm confused?

Finally done with what? the stock pack or didn't you build this with 3500 Sanyo cells?
 
I assume this makes you think using the 30Q is a better option then the 3500 MAH Sanyo GA cells?

I have to make a similar decision. I am still leaning on the Sanyo cells because they work so well on my hub bike.
 
30Q is for hotrodders.

I didn't run through the breaker.
 
Exactly, but I guess you felt the GA cells would not offer enough amps and this is why I have asked. I will have to make a similar determination taking into account the voltage drop and the maximum amps I would want.

I still lean towards the 3500 cells because the extra capacity may be worth it over higher peak amps.
 
3500mah cells??? i never seen this in real world on powerful e-bike.
3500mah wil be more like 3300mah.

The PF cells 16S-11P batterie on the sur-ron is more like 57,6Vx30,25=1742Wh in real.
 
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