Worth checking out?

E-HP

10 GW
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I just saw this local Craigslist ad, that may have a hidden gem or two among the motors shown. Hard to tell, from the pics, unless you have a really good eye, but some seem to be more that the 250 watts mentioned in the ad. I figure that out of ~15 or so, might be worth going to take a look (the $50 each for 3 seems like the best deal besides taking the whole lot.

See anything that stands out?
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bop/d/oakland-new-electric-hub-motors/6883093422.html
 
Gem or two? lol, more like all of them!
I'd buy them all if I was you.

All of them are the ''Ultramotor'' brand that the A2B Metro uses.
I ran one of those with a 25A Controller just fine.
 
Great deal AFAICT since they look to be in good condition and assuming you have a plan for what to do with them.
 
If I was there, and not hundreds of miles away, I'd buy the whole lot at $30 each, and skimp on whatever else I had to to make up the budget for a while. Just the *tires* are proably worth that, much less the rims and spokes, let alone the motors!

Those motors are well made, even if you can't use the built-in controllers often found in them.

I've got one (still to be tested with external controller on SB Cruiser)...and I'd love to have more of them to play with. :) Mine is the Mountain33 used on the Stromer, and is rated 500w on the motor, 350w on the internal controller.
 
amberwolf said:
Those motors are well made, even if you can't use the built-in controllers often found in them.

Do they all have the internal controller, and if not, is there a way to tell? It might be nice to have a couple of extra/faster motors to experiment with. Can the motors handle much more than 500 watts. Ideally it would be good if they could run at 52 volts, so I can just swap out wheels.








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E-HP said:
amberwolf said:
Those motors are well made, even if you can't use the built-in controllers often found in them.

Do they all have the internal controller, and if not, is there a way to tell?

If they have 3 heavy wires going into the hub (with or without 5 or more thin wires), they probably don't have internal controllers. If they have 2 heavy wires and a number of thin ones going in, then they probably do have internal controllers.

If they have only two heavy wires going in and no small ones, they're brushed motors.
 
E-HP said:
Do they all have the internal controller, and if not, is there a way to tell?
I don't know.

Regarding the wires, mine had three thick wires and some smaller ones, but it did have the internal controller. There are no brushed Ultramotors that I am aware of.

There's a number of A2B / Metro / Ultramotor / Umotor / Stromer posts and threads with info; I haven't read them all, but I skimmed a fair bit when looking for info on how I might be able to use the internal controller and LCD from the Stromer.

But I found tHe catch iwth the internal controller is that it apparently wont' run without the original battery and display and other controls/sensors. So you'll probably have to take the wheel apart (the motor only comes apart between the flanges), and remove the internal controller, and add your own phase and hall wires (you could skp the halls if you use a sensorless controller).

However, I'm not the first one to run an external controller on there; you can check out various people that did that (I think Fechter's A2B Metro thread has some of that, and maybe GCinDC's Stromer thread).

It might be nice to have a couple of extra/faster motors to experiment with. Can the motors handle much more than 500 watts. Ideally it would be good if they could run at 52 volts, so I can just swap out wheels.
THe motors (sans internal controllers, if present) can run at any voltage. They're probably generally going to be wound for a top speed of something around 20MPH at 36v, though, at a guess, in whatever wheel they're in (assuming they are still in the OEM wheels) So the speed they'll have in the same wheel at a higher voltage will be proportionally faster. (I base my guess on the Mountan 33 motor being for 33km/h which is 20mph, as a 36v system, for instance).

I expect the power ratings are conservative, what they could guarantee they'd work at without any significant heating (because of the internal controller thing, making it's own heat to add to it).



After I get some sort of torque arm setup on my fork, I'll wire up the motor I have to an external controller (already have the wiring at the motor done), and test it on my own 14s pack on the SB Cruiser trike. Dunno for sure when this will happen, but hopefully in the next week or two. Not soon enough for you to decide on these, but I'll post feedback in my Hacking a stromer motor... thread, and my SB Cruiser thread.








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amberwolf said:
Regarding the wires, mine had three thick wires and some smaller ones, but it did have the internal controller.

What was the third thick wire for?
 
Thanks guys. It sounds like a little bit of work, but with a low investment, so good for a tinkering/learning project. The post has been out for a week, so I'll wait for the weekend and see what's available.
 
Chalo said:
What was the third thick wire for?

It's not quite as thick as the first two (my memory fooled me), but it is marked as SOC on the board under the goop
file.php

The pins on the connector itself *are* teh same size:
file.php
 
markz said:
Only problem is
but even so, I'd buy them all for $30 each.

I’m hoping well built means that the motor has a conservative rating. Looking at the A2B bikes, they seem to make decent speed with 36v, so I’m thinking that if I run it at 52v I may be able to get close to 30mph on flat ground with. 26” wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
10S which is 36V is good for wide open throttle (WOT), I liked it but I found there was 10% of the time, I wanted more speed for straight aways. Now with 15S which is 56V nominal, I find its too much speed for me, that 10% of the time I wanted more speed, at 15S its too much speed. I think for me, ideal is 13S (48V) and some sort of speed restriction so I dont mindlessly go faster and waste more energy out of my battery.

Those motors can do whatever voltage you want them to do.
https://youtu.be/IxB2j-egWcQ?t=497
 
markz said:
10S which is 36V is good for wide open throttle (WOT), I liked it but I found there was 10% of the time, I wanted more speed for straight aways. Now with 15S which is 56V nominal, I find its too much speed for me, that 10% of the time I wanted more speed, at 15S its too much speed. I think for me, ideal is 13S (48V) and some sort of speed restriction so I dont mindlessly go faster and waste more energy out of my battery.

Those motors can do whatever voltage you want them to do.
https://youtu.be/IxB2j-egWcQ?t=497

Thanks for the info. I'll have time on Sunday to check them out if they're still available. I'll probably only get a couple and negotiate the price. I just think bringing home a truckload of wheels might give my wife a reason to have my committed. :shock:
 
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