New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

btslo said:
hefest said:
btslo said:
Can we jack up the cadence on the 48v with the opensource firmware? (I saw some options on the wiki but were "experimental", any side effects?)
Click to expand...

Asked the same but it looks like there isn't. There are probably two options, one is to get just the 36V motor and replace existing one, another is to run dc-dc boost converter and raise the voltage to 52V.
Click to expand...

See here:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Features-and-configurations-for-version-0.18.X#11_Various

"Set (2) (EXPERIMENTAL) for the 48 V brushless motor, high cadence mode. Maybe not good for the motor, use at your own risk. Probably only suitable for the 36 V motor."

But not sure if anyone is using this.
Click to expand...

I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .

Regards

Dirk
 
Dirkro said:
btslo said:
hefest said:
btslo said:
Can we jack up the cadence on the 48v with the opensource firmware? (I saw some options on the wiki but were "experimental", any side effects?)
Click to expand...

Asked the same but it looks like there isn't. There are probably two options, one is to get just the 36V motor and replace existing one, another is to run dc-dc boost converter and raise the voltage to 52V.
Click to expand...

See here:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Features-and-configurations-for-version-0.18.X#11_Various

"Set (2) (EXPERIMENTAL) for the 48 V brushless motor, high cadence mode. Maybe not good for the motor, use at your own risk. Probably only suitable for the 36 V motor."

But not sure if anyone is using this.
Click to expand...

I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .

Regards

Dirk
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm interested in option 2 on a 48V motor. Should get higher cadence on this motor.
 
I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .

Regards

Dirk


Ok it seem it s what i have experimented,
i m using 12S batt on a 36V motor and haven t noticied highter cadence, btw i m not using option 2 "highter cadence mode "
i will try to activate this option,
someone said me that it was not necessary to activate "experimental mode " and using more voltage was suffisant to increase rpm .
 
hefest said:
From what I gathered it's sprag clutch bearing issue. Main problem is that this bearing is also the one handling all the force applied by foot and motor. Replacement comes in form of main gear and bearing already fitted. According to the info I gathered, after the blue gear failure, this is second thing to go wrong wether it's manifesting as increased play in the right crank side or complete failure with slipping. With a little bit of tinkering the best option would be to replace original bearing which is rated for up to 110nm of torque with better quality bb30-1k-1 bearing rated for 140nm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BB30-One-Way-Clutches-Sprag-Type-30x62x16mm-Overrunning-clutches-Japanese-bearing-supported-Cam-Clutch/32320474129.html
Click to expand...

Great find, looks like it should fit but do you know of anyone that has used this bearing with this motor ?
 
jbalat said:
hefest said:
From what I gathered it's sprag clutch bearing issue. Main problem is that this bearing is also the one handling all the force applied by foot and motor. Replacement comes in form of main gear and bearing already fitted. According to the info I gathered, after the blue gear failure, this is second thing to go wrong wether it's manifesting as increased play in the right crank side or complete failure with slipping. With a little bit of tinkering the best option would be to replace original bearing which is rated for up to 110nm of torque with better quality bb30-1k-1 bearing rated for 140nm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BB30-One-Way-Clutches-Sprag-Type-30x62x16mm-Overrunning-clutches-Japanese-bearing-supported-Cam-Clutch/32320474129.html
Click to expand...

Great find, looks like it should fit but do you know of anyone that has used this bearing with this motor ?
Click to expand...

Yes, someone on German forum. This motor is sold in Germany under two different names, one is SFM DU250.
 
The SW102 news is exciting to say the least. It tics all of the boxes for me (small, bluetooth, easy to read in daylight and so on.
 
Help please!
I'm trying to get my new TSDZ2 conversion to work and have so far failed.
The battery is ok (tested with a multimeter), but the display simply won't switch on (VLCD6). Has anyone experienced problems with this display? Or problems with a new motor sinply not working first time?
I am wondering whether it's most likely to be the display or the motor itself.
The obvious thing to do would be to try it with another display but nobody where I live sells them so I'd need to buy another one online which I'd rather not do.
Hoping it's just the display as that will be much easier to send back to China (Aliexpress) than the motor.
 
My 48V TDSZ2 (2 years old) starts at 55.4 volts. May not if above that. I have a 52V battery and charge it to 80% to get 55.4V at the battery. Bad: I don't get to use the 55.4 to 58.4 capability of the battery. Good: it forces me to operate in the 50% to 80% of the battery capability. Battery will probably last a long time...
 
itchyfoot42 said:
My 48V TDSZ2 (2 years old) starts at 55.4 volts. May not if above that. I have a 52V battery and charge it to 80% to get 55.4V at the battery. Bad: I don't get to use the 55.4 to 58.4 capability of the battery. Good: it forces me to operate in the 50% to 80% of the battery capability. Battery will probably last a long time...
Click to expand...

How are you limiting it to 55.4v? This is not a standard charging voltage, so how are you keeping it to 55.4?
 
Hey guys,

Had my first go making an e bike and I opted for the TSDZ2. I've run into some issues...

1 the cranks and pedals feel really wobbly and not very well secured have I put them on incorrectly?

2 the display is hard to read and flashy. Is there a way to reset it?

3 the throttle I bought doesn't seem to work. Does this just plug directly into the display?

Bought the motor from e bird store and the battery is from Hailong

Sorry if the answer to these questions is obvious, I'm not very savvy with bikes or electronics but just wanted to give it a go!
 
I am having the same problem as Milodavies (above) with my 48V 750W install (cannot activate display), and I have successfully installed a 36V 500W unit on a different bike, so I understand how to do the general install properly, and I'm probably not overlooking anything obvious.

Does anyone here have a pin diagram for the cable between the motor and the display, so that I can check that power is being supplied to the display?

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi,

I hope someone can answer my question:

Does all Tongsheng TSDZ2 support coaster brakes, or are there differents versions of the motor?

(I need coaster brake support.)



Thanks in advance!
 
continuous_square said:
Hi,

I hope someone can answer my question:

Does all Tongsheng TSDZ2 support coaster brakes, or are there differents versions of the motor?

(I need coaster brake support.)



Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

There are 2 different versions.
You can buy the coaster brake version it should be stated by your seller.
 
I've finally started installation of tsdz2.
Once I removed cranks I noticed that BB is actually pretty hard to turn. Lost almost 4 hours trying to remove the BB and it took a lot of force to do it. I had to use 1 meter long car lugnut removal tool to get it going. But luckily, tsdz2 is clearing the chainstay pretty well.
 
Hi,
my TDSZ2 finally arrived. I am just surprised how stiff is the crank mechanism without any assistance - is this normal?

How stiff is suppose to be the sprag clutch compared to normal bike bottom bracket?
 
eyebyesickle said:
So remove the seal on the non drive side:
tsdz2nondriveseal.jpg

then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
tsdz2nondrivebehindseallockring.jpg


Washer size / part info to follow...
Click to expand...

Think time to try remove crank axle wobbling. Any tips how to remove left side seal without destroying it? Seems in front is soft and thin rubber and behind it is something harder...
 
Have anyone measured this distance?

I mean minimum distance between the round part that goes into bottom bracket to the rest of the engine.

My BB is:
PF41
92mm BB
outside diameter: 47,5 mm

Has anyone tested if you need some eccentric adapter to fit the engine or it will fit using concentric BB adapters?
 
jtsavola said:
eyebyesickle said:
So remove the seal on the non drive side:
tsdz2nondriveseal.jpg

then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
tsdz2nondrivebehindseallockring.jpg


Washer size / part info to follow...
Click to expand...

Think time to try remove crank axle wobbling. Any tips how to remove left side seal without destroying it? Seems in front is soft and thin rubber and behind it is something harder...
Click to expand...

Remove the chain ring, and the lock ring behind it that holds the axle... Then push it out... The bearing behind the rubber seal will push it, so you don't have to tear it up with a screwdriver etc...
 
Tucznik said:
Have anyone measured this distance?

I mean minimum distance between the round part that goes into bottom bracket to the rest of the engine.

My BB is:
PF41
92mm BB
outside diameter: 47,5 mm

Has anyone tested if you need some eccentric adapter to fit the engine or it will fit using concentric BB adapters?
Click to expand...

I think I have discussed this with you since this post, but FYI for everybody, the smallest point (where the lip protrudes to fasten the mount plate) is about 8mm... And an eccentric 41mm adapter will also add about 1-2mm Max of wall thickness, FYI
 
What do you think about 350W48V? (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/okfeet-free-custom-tax-TSDZ2-Midmotor-VLCD6-36-48V-250-350-500W-electric-bicycle-Kit-Torque/32855244377.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.28fa2e0e05FK6F).
Could it be, taht a 36V engine controller has been converted to 48V? Do you have any experience with this? Which 48V battery (Ah) would be suitable for a 50 km flat trip?
 
Last night finished the conversion but it was raining outside. Today finally made first test run. Oh man, it's much better than I expected. I imediatelly went to the 7% inclined 400 meters stretch to test and in turbo mode without much pushing it's a breeze.

Then I changed the limit to 40km/h and on a flat in 7th gear ( shimano nexus 8 ) achieved that speed in a matter of few seconds.

Motor is quiet enough, having in mind others complaints didn't expect it to be that quiet.

First negative thing I noticed is power delivery in speed and turbo mode. There is a lot of surging if you press the pedals even slightly harder. No wonder that blue gear is failing that much. I guess open source firmware is going on it sooner than I planned.

All in all, excellent little motor.
 
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