New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Hi, i haven't erased but before i had stock firmware. This is my first installation of open firmware. Do you think that i should erase all and then reflash?
I was thinking to downgrade to 18.2 i have seen that there are a lot of users that are experiencing problems with 0.19.6 version.
Someone suggest to use the display firmware 0.19.5 with motor version 0.19.6... Problably there are some bugs in this version.
Please give me some suggestion i haven't more experience with this firmware.

Maurizio
 
mauri_78 said:
Hi, i haven't erased but before i had stock firmware. This is my first installation of open firmware. Do you think that i should erase all and then reflash?
I was thinking to downgrade to 18.2 i have seen that there are a lot of users that are experiencing problems with 0.19.6 version.
Someone suggest to use the display firmware 0.19.5 with motor version 0.19.6... Problably there are some bugs in this version.
Please give me some suggestion i haven't more experience with this firmware.

Maurizio
Do not use the beta6, it has a major bug with the menu.
Use the beta5 or wait the incoming beta7!
 
hefest said:
So the motor can overcook even if it's not hot on touch?

It probably is hot to the touch, but "how hot" isn't a good gauge if you are cooking your motor or not. The only gauge that can do that is a gauge directly mounted to the metal on the inside motor, thus why so many folks like the opensource motor firmware and display with the LM35 sensor mounted to the motor...
 
I need opinion.

i have 30km on ODO now and starting to get the feel of the bike. Recently I noticed that when I'm starting by putting pressure on the pedal, there is "notchy" feeling coming from the motor through the cranks. It seems to me like I feel the gears "clicking". It goes away when the bicycle starts moving, just with that initial start I'm getting this.
Is this normal behaviour that I didn't notice previously? Or did I somehow manage to wearout the blue gear already (PS: And I avoided overtorquing it as much as possible).
 
hefest said:
I need opinion.

i have 30km on ODO now and starting to get the feel of the bike. Recently I noticed that when I'm starting by putting pressure on the pedal, there is "notchy" feeling coming from the motor through the cranks. It seems to me like I feel the gears "clicking". It goes away when the bicycle starts moving, just with that initial start I'm getting this.
Is this normal behaviour that I didn't notice previously? Or did I somehow manage to wearout the blue gear already (PS: And I avoided overtorquing it as much as possible).

That's normal. The motor needs to calibrate at start, if there's a pressure on the pedal the calibration will be wrong and you get a weird behavior of the motor.

Just to understand it, try to push strongly either forward or backward at start during calibration, and try to ride (on a safe place) you'll see why it's important to not put your feet at all on the pedals while starting the motor.
 
mittkonto said:
Looking at a bike light.

However, the light specifies 6-60 V DC supply and:

Requires at least 7.5 W nominal output of the drive system's light connection

Does the tsdz2 (6v for light, controlled through display) provide enough A (1.25A) for this light?

Hi - from memory 7.5W is too much power draw. I was just looking at this light and it looks really good with a proper road safe reflector. The other option is to use a solid state relay, power the relay from the 6V output and use it to switch the battery to the light.

See this https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1423235&hilit=relay#p1423235
 
el_proletario said:
hefest said:
I need opinion.

i have 30km on ODO now and starting to get the feel of the bike. Recently I noticed that when I'm starting by putting pressure on the pedal, there is "notchy" feeling coming from the motor through the cranks. It seems to me like I feel the gears "clicking". It goes away when the bicycle starts moving, just with that initial start I'm getting this.
Is this normal behaviour that I didn't notice previously? Or did I somehow manage to wearout the blue gear already (PS: And I avoided overtorquing it as much as possible).

That's normal. The motor needs to calibrate at start, if there's a pressure on the pedal the calibration will be wrong and you get a weird behavior of the motor.

Just to understand it, try to push strongly either forward or backward at start during calibration, and try to ride (on a safe place) you'll see why it's important to not put your feet at all on the pedals while starting the motor.

I always leave it to turn on without touching pedals so I don't think it's that.
I'm talking about feeling clicking through pedals every time I start from the standstill, on traffic light for example.
 
mauri_78 said:
Hi, i haven't erased but before i had stock firmware. This is my first installation of open firmware. Do you think that i should erase all and then reflash?
I was thinking to downgrade to 18.2 i have seen that there are a lot of users that are experiencing problems with 0.19.6 version.
Someone suggest to use the display firmware 0.19.5 with motor version 0.19.6... Problably there are some bugs in this version.
Please give me some suggestion i haven't more experience with this firmware.

Maurizio

As thineight said there is some problems in beta 0.19. Now casainho has released v 19.0-beta7. Buba has made
huge work to prepare it. Casainho warned to use it. It is only for developers. If you want stable version use latest
v 18 which is non beta.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&start=2325

edit: here is latest stable release: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/releases/tag/v0.18.2
 
hefest said:
el_proletario said:
hefest said:
I need opinion.

i have 30km on ODO now and starting to get the feel of the bike. Recently I noticed that when I'm starting by putting pressure on the pedal, there is "notchy" feeling coming from the motor through the cranks. It seems to me like I feel the gears "clicking". It goes away when the bicycle starts moving, just with that initial start I'm getting this.
Is this normal behaviour that I didn't notice previously? Or did I somehow manage to wearout the blue gear already (PS: And I avoided overtorquing it as much as possible).

That's normal. The motor needs to calibrate at start, if there's a pressure on the pedal the calibration will be wrong and you get a weird behavior of the motor.

Just to understand it, try to push strongly either forward or backward at start during calibration, and try to ride (on a safe place) you'll see why it's important to not put your feet at all on the pedals while starting the motor.

I always leave it to turn on without touching pedals so I don't think it's that.
I'm talking about feeling clicking through pedals every time I start from the standstill, on traffic light for example.

I understand what you mean now. I have the same feeling also when I start moving. Not sure if it's normal though.
 
hefest said:
el_proletario said:
hefest said:
I need opinion.

i have 30km on ODO now and starting to get the feel of the bike. Recently I noticed that when I'm starting by putting pressure on the pedal, there is "notchy" feeling coming from the motor through the cranks. It seems to me like I feel the gears "clicking". It goes away when the bicycle starts moving, just with that initial start I'm getting this.
Is this normal behaviour that I didn't notice previously? Or did I somehow manage to wearout the blue gear already (PS: And I avoided overtorquing it as much as possible).

That's normal. The motor needs to calibrate at start, if there's a pressure on the pedal the calibration will be wrong and you get a weird behavior of the motor.

Just to understand it, try to push strongly either forward or backward at start during calibration, and try to ride (on a safe place) you'll see why it's important to not put your feet at all on the pedals while starting the motor.

I always leave it to turn on without touching pedals so I don't think it's that.
I'm talking about feeling clicking through pedals every time I start from the standstill, on traffic light for example.
There is a supposed to be a delay in the power applied based on crank rotation in the original firmware to avoid using power when stopped with a foot on the pedals. No rotation=no power. Some of the aftermarket firmware turns this off. If there's just one click after a partial rotation it's probably just the power coming on. If it's clicking the whole time you're stopped I would say something is wrong with it.
if it's just one click it could be the power coming on.
 
Do these chainrings fit? I want to go 36t from the stock 42

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Road-Bicycle-Folding-Bike-Crankset-110BCD-Aluminum-Chainring-Chain-Wheel-Surpris/233220779618?hash=item364d0aae62:g:-7QAAOSwJoxc0oTz
 
btslo said:
Do these chainrings fit? I want to go 36t from the stock 42

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Road-Bicycle-Folding-Bike-Crankset-110BCD-Aluminum-Chainring-Chain-Wheel-Surpris/233220779618?hash=item364d0aae62:g:-7QAAOSwJoxc0oTz

yes it will fit i swapped mine out for a 36 chain ring as well, on 26 inch wheels and a fairly standard mountain bike casset i find the gearing to be perfect with the assist.

i would try to find a narrow wide style chain ring though, i splashed out on a hope one but raceface and others make them.they are much better at keeping your chain on.
 
Did some of you install a chainguard with this motor ? (Especially with an internal gear hub). Any recommendations or warnings on compatibility ?

I'm about to order one of those :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hebie/Chainglider-350-Full-Chain-Protection-Front-p29665/

Thanks
 
el_proletario said:
Did some of you install a chainguard with this motor ? (Especially with an internal gear hub). Any recommendations or warnings on compatibility ?

I'm about to order one of those :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hebie/Chainglider-350-Full-Chain-Protection-Front-p29665/

Thanks
Yes, the chainglider works like a charm. Be sure to take the right sizes front and rear though.
Screenshot_20190530-134402.png
 
knutselmaaster said:
el_proletario said:
Did some of you install a chainguard with this motor ? (Especially with an internal gear hub). Any recommendations or warnings on compatibility ?

I'm about to order one of those :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hebie/Chainglider-350-Full-Chain-Protection-Front-p29665/

Thanks
Yes, the chainglider works like a charm. Be sure to take the right sizes front and rear though.
Screenshot_20190530-134402.png

:thumb: looks great ! Thanks
 
la8rat said:
btslo said:
Do these chainrings fit? I want to go 36t from the stock 42

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Road-Bicycle-Folding-Bike-Crankset-110BCD-Aluminum-Chainring-Chain-Wheel-Surpris/233220779618?hash=item364d0aae62:g:-7QAAOSwJoxc0oTz

yes it will fit i swapped mine out for a 36 chain ring as well, on 26 inch wheels and a fairly standard mountain bike casset i find the gearing to be perfect with the assist.

i would try to find a narrow wide style chain ring though, i splashed out on a hope one but raceface and others make them.they are much better at keeping your chain on.

Ugh, just hate that 5x110 selection is limited and very expensive. Just installed 11-40 cassette (had 11-34), wonder how much easier it will be. Still want 36t on front though.
 
knutselmaaster said:
el_proletario said:
Did some of you install a chainguard with this motor ? (Especially with an internal gear hub). Any recommendations or warnings on compatibility ?

I'm about to order one of those :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hebie/Chainglider-350-Full-Chain-Protection-Front-p29665/

Thanks
Yes, the chainglider works like a charm. Be sure to take the right sizes front and rear though.
Screenshot_20190530-134402.png

Is this with original 42t chainring? Is there really enough space between the tsdz2 housing and chainring for a hebie chainglider?
 
knutselmaaster said:
el_proletario said:
Did some of you install a chainguard with this motor ? (Especially with an internal gear hub). Any recommendations or warnings on compatibility ?

I'm about to order one of those :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hebie/Chainglider-350-Full-Chain-Protection-Front-p29665/

Thanks
Yes, the chainglider works like a charm. Be sure to take the right sizes front and rear though.
Screenshot_20190530-134402.png
What IGH is that? I have Shimano Nexus 7 and the chainline and shifter are a possible issue. I'd love to do that.
 
It is a nexus 8. Chainline is perfect. Everything is original, no problems with the space between the motor housing and the chainring, no problems with the space between the chainring and the bashgard. I used the 42t chainglider in the front (short version) and the one suitable for 18t in the rear.
In any case, the chainglider is suitable for nexus and alfine hubs, I have it on several bikes in my shop.
 
btslo said:
la8rat said:
btslo said:
Do these chainrings fit? I want to go 36t from the stock 42

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Road-Bicycle-Folding-Bike-Crankset-110BCD-Aluminum-Chainring-Chain-Wheel-Surpris/233220779618?hash=item364d0aae62:g:-7QAAOSwJoxc0oTz

yes it will fit i swapped mine out for a 36 chain ring as well, on 26 inch wheels and a fairly standard mountain bike casset i find the gearing to be perfect with the assist.

i would try to find a narrow wide style chain ring though, i splashed out on a hope one but raceface and others make them.they are much better at keeping your chain on.

Ugh, just hate that 5x110 selection is limited and very expensive. Just installed 11-40 cassette (had 11-34), wonder how much easier it will be. Still want 36t on front though.

I have the narrow wide because i do a lot of off road rough stuff. And the 36 because its very hilly where i am. If you dont do to much rough stuff or you have a clutch rear mech you will be fine with a standard pattern chain ring, you could also try one of those plastic chain devices that screw on near the chain ring to help keep chain on.
 
knutselmaaster said:
It is a nexus 8. Chainline is perfect. Everything is original, no problems with the space between the motor housing and the chainring, no problems with the space between the chainring and the bashgard. I used the 42t chainglider in the front (short version) and the one suitable for 18t in the rear.
In any case, the chainglider is suitable for nexus and alfine hubs, I have it on several bikes in my shop.

I already had Chainglider before tsdz2 but it was for 38t front 19t back. Now it's 42t front and 19t. I guess I just need to get the front part of the Chainglider ordered for 42t, but I was skeptical about it fitting. Thanks for the info.

Speaking of chainguards, I tried the "Biologic freedrive" approach with 10mm split tubing like this one. It's rubbing against the TSDZ2 housing.
 
Hey all wow this is a huge thread to go through, so I thought I'd ask, is there a consensus on how to install "safely" without needing to use the frame clamp?

I am installing to full suspension bikes and while I can fab some supports/clamps be nice if I didn't have to like with the Bafang.
 
knutselmaaster said:
It is a nexus 8. Chainline is perfect. Everything is original, no problems with the space between the motor housing and the chainring, no problems with the space between the chainring and the bashgard. I used the 42t chainglider in the front (short version) and the one suitable for 18t in the rear.
In any case, the chainglider is suitable for nexus and alfine hubs, I have it on several bikes in my shop.
Thank you very much. Chaincases are almost unkown here in the US. I'll have to see if I can get my hands on one. I have a TSDZ2 Nexus 7 bike. 44x19 gearing. What do you guys do for chain maintenenace with those? How is it different than an exposed chain? Maybe a wet lube but less often?
 
Retrorockit said:
knutselmaaster said:
It is a nexus 8. Chainline is perfect. Everything is original, no problems with the space between the motor housing and the chainring, no problems with the space between the chainring and the bashgard. I used the 42t chainglider in the front (short version) and the one suitable for 18t in the rear.
In any case, the chainglider is suitable for nexus and alfine hubs, I have it on several bikes in my shop.
Thank you very much. Chaincases are almost unkown here in the US. I'll have to see if I can get my hands on one. I have a TSDZ2 Nexus 7 bike. 44x19 gearing. What do you guys do for chain maintenenace with those? How is it different than an exposed chain? Maybe a wet lube but less often?
I could sell you one and send it to the US but that will probably get quite expensive.
Don't hesitate to PM me.

Chain maintenance is minimal, some drops of oil every few months is more than enough when a bike has a decent chain case. The lubrifiant of a new chain lasts for ages already.
 
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