Liberty Stealth Climber (MTB)

DrkAngel

1 GW
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
5,300
Location
Upstate-Western-Southern Tier NY. USA
Looking for parts-n-such for Liberty Stealth Climber - MTB.
Picked up an "Antique?" "Vintage?" eBike for $50


443_long.jpg


Missing key (lock is welded into fork)
OEM brake pads (worn out)
Battery pack - empty (missing) - will build own, but housing-shell would be nice

Worth fixing up!
36V 450w 18mph motor
might run
48V 600+w 24mph?
designed for off road
200mm rear disc brake rotor
excellent F&R suspension
Only 6 speed, so would likely swap to 7spd with higher and lower gearing

Worst case, motor shot ... throw a 1000w on the rear? 200mm rotor looks to use standard mount.
 
That's a really interesting bike. Do you know what brand or how old it is? I wonder how it'll ride with the long wheelbase. Good and stable for high speed? Is the shock and fork "real" or just springs? That'll be a fun project. I vote for the high powered motor option! :D
 
Battery is probably toast, so gut the inside, install whatever you want. Paint the case the same as the frame, black. V-type kick stand, paint motor black, install a stiff rear rack having the visuals move from the rear mud flap mount at the boxy black battery box then going straight up a few inches to get a swooping arc feature from the top of the installed battery box into the rack carrying area. Perhaps make the rear rack chunky? Atleast from the top of the battery, then thin the chunkiness of the rear rack into a regular rear rack look. Or just install LiPo's to lessen the visuals of the big boxiness of the stock battery box. Could probably reduce the side view width, as seen, by half using LiPo. Be the same width from the side angle, as the seat post. Green Multi-Stars from Hobbyking?

Edit: Maybe a Phaserunner in the stock controller location, bottom bracket box.
Perhaps a better visual, is to not have the battery go above that top bar, of the rear triangle. Then you could just have a thinner profile for the rear rack, coming off the mud guard mount, then a few stiffener bars for better bracing.
Looks like a 2nd chainring, perhaps its even a 3x7?8?

new ebike.jpg
 
Here is a link, from Google Image Search
https://visforvoltage.org/forum-topic/bicycles-and-pedelecs/729-ev-warrior-bikes-or-liberty-electric-bikes
EV Warrior bikes or Liberty Electric bikes
443 Mountain Bike

https://www.bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/14716-bike

https://visforvoltage.org/forum-topic/bicycles-and-pedelecs/1256-liberty-electric-mountain-bike


Edit:
Steel, 26", 6spd, 250W, 36V 8Ah, PAS
From a close up of their picture, looks to be a 1x6.
Note: Weight of Bicycle: 74 lbs. plus Battery Pack (20 lbs.)

Frame: Hi Tensil Steel
Rims: 26 in.Alloy with MTB Black Adonized Knife Edge
Tires: Aluminium Double Wall Profile 26" x 1.95 Off Road Type
Deraileur: SHIMANO, SIS 6 speed
Front Forks: MTB 26" Suspension Type
Brakes: Disc Brakes Front and Rear
Handlebars: Alloy
Mudguards / Fenders: Straight Plastic
Seat: Comfort MTB Style
Motor: 250 Watt Brushless Hub Motor.
Controller: 36 Volt DC Pedal Assist System Plus Speed Control Throttle!
Batteries: 36 Volt 8 ah High Power Sealed Lead Acid
(Optional Ni-MH 36v 8 ah batteries)
Charger: 36 Volt DC Output, 220/240 Volt AC Input intelligent Electronic
Charging Time: Dependant on use! 4 - 6 Hours
Max Speed: 15 mph with motor, faster with pedaling
PAS System: Economy Speed 12 mph
Range: 24-27 miles depending on Riders Weight,Road Conditions Etc
Normal Load recommended: Load 220 lbs.
Maximum Load: 275 lbs.
Weight of Bicycle: 74 lbs. plus Battery Pack (20 lbs.)
(Optional Ni-MH or Li-Ion batteries weigh 12/8 lbs)
Assembly Required: Pedals, Front tire, Front Fender (10 - 15 minutes)
Pricing:
Lead Acid: $625.00 plus $74 shipping
Ni-MH: $798 plus $71 shipping
Li-Ion: $995 plus $75 shipping



https://vilberg.blog.is/blog/vilberg/?offset=180
 
That's a super crappy bike. Don't spend a lot trying to make it into something it won't ever be.

It reminds me of the many times at the bike shop that I am faced with a bike that needs $200 of service to become a fully functional $40 bike.
 
That is an excellent chassis for a very comfortable high speed build. Steel, full suspension, battery space, and an extended wheelbase makes for ebike perfection. Because of the long wheelbase, it will be extremely stable at >20mph much like a motorcycle.

I would of course, toss all the electrics and replace them with something modern. That is an older low 80% efficient motor for starters. Blah.

The swingarm may be twisty and this might be a power limit. Or maybe not.

Looks heavy as sin but that is a plus if you're looking for theft protection. :mrgreen:
Good luck with the build!
 
Most likely a brushed 250W motor because of the lead acid battery to cheap out on for the unsuspecting.

Toss the old rear suspension and throw in a quality air/coil, and a decent suspension fork. A good value one is the Suntour XCR
https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/confused-about-low-end-suntour-suspension-forks-640272.html
The hierarchy from low to high would be XCT, XCM, XCR. V2, V3 has to do with the 'version'. higher number is newer generation.

Forks specified by different bicycle brands can be configured in a number of different ways, so its hard for me to understand exactly what you are looking at, that being said;

Our XCM and XCR models come with 30mm stanchions. ( the upper tubes) if you compare this to other forks in the price range, many of our competitors will often use 28mm stanchions. Larger diameter = improved stiffness and strength. Also, the pitch, or width of these two forks is 130mm. You will find that to be a bit wider than many of our competitors. Generally speaking, wider is better.

Second, our XCM and XCR models are what we call QSP, or quick service products. That means if your fork's internals ever wear out our suffer a problem, the fork can be fixed easily by replacing the entire cartridge.

Finally, if you are shopping for a bike that is less than $1,000 I'm sure you have seen that many of those bikes are equipped with SR Suntour forks. The primary reasons for this are based on the fact that the bicycle brands have come to trust SR Suntour to supply them with a reliable product that performs well. (that may seem simple, but its a big deal) Additionally, we operate service centers in North America, Asia and Europe to back up our product.
 
2009 videos

[youtube]ilR1IRoryZo[/youtube]



[youtube]KhQJksRLRZo[/youtube]
 
Wow! 74 pounds without the battery! And a 250W motor isn't exactly a heavyweight. What's left is like a moped.

I don't say this very often in this forum, but here goes: That thing could use a lot more power.

I think maybe it should be called the Liberty Stealth Descender.
 
markz said:
Toss the old rear suspension and throw in a quality air/coil, and a decent suspension fork. A good value one is the Suntour XCR
https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/confused-about-low-end-suntour-suspension-forks-640272.html

Suspension is solid and excellent!
Appears to be a Zoom DH suspension fork.

Zoom Fork.jpg

ZOOM CH-650 DH listed as part in later models.
 
the 75 dollar ebike! kudos for keeping the low buck mantra going. lets see some low buck/low power + high sweat equity ebike action!

cheers,

len
 
Lenk42602 said:
the 75 dollar ebike! kudos for keeping the low buck mantra going. lets see some low buck/low power + high sweat equity ebike action!

cheers,

len
$50! ... ?
Will be adding a $175 1000w hub motor, so might be pushing $405 total including 14s 51.8V 10Ah RC Lipo (4 x 7s 5000mAh)
Should be able to hit 30mph.

Likely, find some Comfort Cruiser for old motor and controller, probably be able to sell that for $500 ...
 
I used to have one of these I picked it up at a used bike store in Florida for $75 in 2009 it was a heavy slow beast with really bad suspension. But man did it look cool

the rear derailur is on a bad angle and cause the smaller toothed cogs to strip/bend and cause your knee to hit the stem (ouch)
I took the pedal assist out and it caused the throttle to start a little when the key was turned, I was able to adjust the throttle gear to solve the issue and it worked good. This was before I knew how easy it was to throw a stronger controller in place.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhQJksRLRZo&t=351s
 
skeetab5780 said:
I used to have one of these I picked it up at a used bike store in Florida for $75 in 2009 it was a heavy slow beast with really bad suspension. But man did it look cool

the rear derailur is on a bad angle and cause the smaller toothed cogs to strip/bend and cause your knee to hit the stem (ouch)
I took the pedal assist out and it caused the throttle to start a little when the key was turned, I was able to adjust the throttle gear to solve the issue and it worked good. This was before I knew how easy it was to throw a stronger controller in place.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhQJksRLRZo&t=351s

No battery case, no key, Likely to replace motor - controller with 1500w kit, to bring out full potential.
So, will have new rear gears, and possibly, different crank gears (present one bent).
Has limiting switch for 1500w/750w motor output.
Building large 15s battery and will likely replace seat with motorcycle bench type for slide back - crouch down cruising. Wide enough I can squeeze my legs against, to keep from bouncing off?
 
Ordered up an honest 750/1500w rear hub kit (35A controller x 48V battery = 1680 raw watts)
Planned cells for 14s battery build proved unacceptable - got full refund. Have 6 good 36V 14Ah (mj1) batteries, will likely rebuild 3x 10s4p (36V 14Ah) into 2x 15s4p (54V 14Ah) batteries or into 1 54V 28Ah 1.5kWh. Should be 40mph capable so larger battery needed. No, will not, typically, hit 40mph, just nice to have that capability

Also, impetus for renewing project, picked up a set of 26" 3.0" wheels with great rims, tires and tubes. Rear axle was stiff and grumbly, so got them for $10. Will need to measure and remove front fender. Rims are wide but 26" standard diameter so worst case will run some larger, more street worthy tires.

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neptronix said:
That is an excellent chassis for a very comfortable high speed build. Steel, full suspension, battery space, and an extended wheelbase makes for ebike perfection. Because of the long wheelbase, it will be extremely stable at >20mph much like a motorcycle.

Agree on the long swingarm, but not sure about perfection. Looks like the swingarm pivot point results in the battery becoming un-sprung weight, as well as any rider weight on the pedals. I guess your legs could help with rebound to keep the shock from packing up?
 
DrkAngel said:
2009 videos

[youtube]ilR1IRoryZo[/youtube]



[youtube]KhQJksRLRZo[/youtube]

hey those are my videos I used to have this heavy bike shaped object! Bought it in Florida with no batteries it was slow and fun
 
skeetab5780 said:
hey those are my videos I used to have this heavy bike shaped object! Bought it in Florida with no batteries it was slow and fun
Should be fast and fun ... when finished.
700%(?) power upgrade, pushing up a 48V 1500w hub motor to 55.5V (15s), should have good acceleration past 30mph and top out near 40.
Upgrading to intense leds, front and rear, probably turn signals too, eventually.
Looking to cut out old key switch and replace, never got the key.
 
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