Bummer on the tire. Mine was actually quite usable. I used it as a front tire for a couple thousand miles until a it became compromised by a 1/2 in cut from something very sharp. But even then, I cut the sides off and am using it inside my rear tire in addition to a anti-flat strip.
Auto paint and a real sprayer are obviously superior, but I was able to do a very nice job on my fenders using a standard "rattle can" and finishing it with three coats of clear. I think rattle can fumes are a bit less toxic than two-part car paint. A little car wax shines it up nicely and make them easier to clean.
Because I'm using a voltage boost converter to bring 36 volt batteries up to 54 volts, my installation's throttle response may be different than yours. I found the throttle to be fairly non-linear. This isn't a big problem because the power to weight ratio is very low on a 1000 watt or less ebike. So you can easily maintain desired speeds by easing into and out of the throttle because inertia tends to damp acceleration. I eventually reconfigured my bike to be Class 3 compliant when AZ bike laws were recently changed. That meant relying on the PAS to apply and/or enable throttle. What I've found is that once I got used to it, it was actually a nicer more bicycle-like ride using the PAS almost exclusively. I typically select power levels 2, 3, or 4 (power draw at that first four levels is about 150, 300, 450 & 600 watts respectively) depending on terrain, wind, desired speed and desired level of effort. After a while, picking a level becomes as automatic as switching gears. The twist throttle stays operative and I use it to get full power on-demand without hitting buttons on the LCD panel. So I only use the twist throttle occasionally when riding.
If you install the PAS, be careful about forcing it onto the crank spindle. I pressed mine on with substantial force and broke the inner ring that has "fingers" that grip the crank. I was able to repair the crack, and re-install after grinding the "fingers" down to allow for the larger diameter crank spindle.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90369#p1332443
As for the torque arm, you can probably get away without using one if you torque the motor axle nuts down appropriately as mentioned earlier (actually quite important based on testing done by Justin) with properly installed tab washers. But why take the chance? Torque arms are easy to make and/or cheap to purchase. Knowing the motor is secure is worth it IMO. Just installing one torque arm would probably be enough to give easy peace of mind.
