Test The Brake Lever Switch help

That looks much better. And the 3 go into a controller connector by themselves.

But most importantly, does the .83vdc reading go up to say 3.6vdc with the throttle twisted to WOT?

A picture of your display up close and turned on would be nice.
 
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Will test the full throttle voltage tomorrow, do not have good light now.

Assuming it will be OK, where to go next? (already checked cables, see nothing unconnected or broken)
 
Done. At full throttle It goes from 0.83 to 3.54 V as expected.

Where to next?
 
Any panel settings inadvertantly changed that could effect use of a throttle?

I would probably back track a little to make sure the high brake signal is NOT present. If I where to speculate I would think that the single purple wire that goes to the controller from your first group of 3 wire cable might be it. Looks purple anyway, but certainly it will be a SINGLE wire and connector... Back probing it, it should read o vdc brake off. High voltage with brake on, with correct operation to verify.

Another tack would be to disconnect all connectors not needed for operation. IE: Brake wiring. By chance it's a low brake system, that connection would be two wires.

Other wise it might be time to open up the controller and smell/look around for damaged components. Note: allow adequate time for the capacitors to discharge after removing battery power. Up to several minutes… Check motor windings and motor hall sensors (3 of them) for correct operation.

You sure the controller doesn't have a sticker on the back? :)
 
You sure the controller doesn't have a sticker on the back?

what do u mean?

Any panel settings inadvertantly changed that could effect use of a throttle?

No, panel viewing keeps steady on the same image all the time.

Back probing it, it should read o vdc brake off. High voltage with brake on, with correct operation to verify.

So If I understand correctly you want me to test the black and the purple of this set for voltage, while maneuvering the brakes off and on, is that it?

Also found out I have a circuit breaker (don't know if it´s fused or not), with a reset button
 
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There you can see the circuit breaker, but I i used the reset button (strange found it very light /soft on touch) , but no changes...
 
By sticker I'm talking about a printed piece of paper with glue on the back that attaches to the controller that has information on it as to the controllers make, model, and operating parameters.

… so no controller adjustment via display available at all.

"So If I understand correctly you want me to test the black and the purple of this set for voltage, while maneuvering the brakes off and on, is that it?"
Well any black would do, (0vdc, batt ground or negative) but yes.

"There you can see the circuit breaker, but I i used the reset button (strange found it very light /soft on touch) , but no changes..."

You can use the same voltage test as you used with the brake switch to verify. Reading across the breaker, closed is 0vdc, open is the voltage potential of the circuit. Or go from ground to each side, should be the same. Or remove the wires, switch to continuity, testing across the breaker connection spades, looking for no resistance.
 
By sticker I'm talking about a printed piece of paper with glue on the back that attaches to the controller that has information on it as to the controllers make, model, and operating parameters.

No, unfortunately there is nothing on it...

Well any black would do, (0vdc, batt ground or negative) but yes.

In this circuit my "black" is yellow, because the corresponding color on the other side of the switch then is black, and the remaining wire is the red one (positive).

Reading across the breaker, closed is 0vdc, open is the voltage potential of the circuit. Or go from ground to each side, should be the same

Will do that test soon, thanks
 
Just a note... a wire on the other side of a switch does not have to be a ground... may read like one, but could have a load in the middle.
 
TommyCat said:
Just a note... a wire on the other side of a switch does not have to be a ground... may read like one, but could have a load in the middle.
Sorry, Don't think I am following you now...
 
"So If I understand correctly you want me to test the black and the purple of this set for voltage, while maneuvering the brakes off and on, is that it?"
Well any black would do, (0vdc, batt ground or negative) but yes.

Result: 0 Vdc. no matter with the brakes pushed or relieved.

Or go from ground to each side, should be the same

As for the "break circuit" the result was 28 V. on both red wires.
 
I'm not sure we are on the same page as far as electrical testing. :(

If you would disconnect the single connector that goes to the brake cable from the handlebars. Green to purple wire connection. (what it looks like from the picture)
And try it then.

No joy. Unplug all the unnecessary connectors to the controller not need for operation.
What is needed...
Wiring to motor, phase wiring and hall sensors wiring.
Wiring to throttle.
Wiring to display if power on button is used to enable system.
Battery power.

Retry...

No joy. Time to look inside.
 
If you would disconnect the single connector that goes to the brake cable from the handlebars. Green to purple wire connection. (what it looks like from the picture)
And try it then.

Done. Disconnected the green to purple, and measured both with brakes on and off: 0 V. Always

After all the controller does have a sticker, did not see the other side, sorry (ML03F) :
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By trying, I meant trying the operation to see if the motor turns... but it sure doesn't seem like the high brake input with those voltage readings. Will look into the controller sticker specs. Thanks.
 
TommyCat said:
By trying, I meant trying the operation to see if the motor turns... but it sure doesn't seem like the high brake input with those voltage readings. Will look into the controller sticker specs. Thanks.

I did it anyway, with that one disconnected and the brake lever cables disconnected too, tried to run the motor, but got only silence...

Will disconnect everything not necessary to run, like you asked me, if I get anything new...

It is I who thank you for all your patience :)
 
"The Key Switch Or Power Switch
(Tool Needed: Multimeter) Sometimes the key switch or power switch will feel good and have a positive snap-action feel to it when switched between the on and off positions but it will still be defective. Testing the continuity of the key switch or power switch with a multimeter is the best way to determine if it is working or not."


Have we done the above?

Checked the cablage to the motor, did not see anything wrong too... :|
 
Since we have a lit up panel and battery display, not to mention 5vdc controller regulated power to the throttle. I would say it's safe to say the power switch is providing power. Is this a key switch? You can use the same meter testing procedures as mentioned above on the brake switch for the key switch for practice. :wink:

Haven't had any luck with the controller information... :(

Does your motor have 2 or 3 heavy wire connections?
 
For the motor only goes 1 thick black wire from the controller, and I can not see anywhere how many wires it has inside without opening the controller.

the other 2 blacks that go to the back of the Scooter are from the brake and to the Stop light
 
omadawn said:
Or go from ground to each side, should be the same

As for the "break circuit" the result was 28 V. on both red wires.

Sorry, missed this. Sounds like a good result, albeit a tad low from your panels reading of 29.7 volts. But time has past (some voltage loss), and some difference between meters can be expected.

If you would do this exact same test once again on your brake switch connections. With your meter set at 40vdc range, leads in common/ground and voltage jacks. With black test ground probe on a known good battery ground. And take readings...

With power on.
Voltage @ Red wire connection, brake on reading, brake off reading.
Voltage @ Black wire connection, brake on reading, brake off reading.

This would clear up some uncertainties about the brake circuit (hopefully). Still no controller wiring information.
 
As for the "break circuit" the result was 28 V. on both red wires.

That is what I did. Now you asked me to repeat the same test pushing the brakes on and off. If I understood correctly.

This is what I did not understand :
With power on.
Voltage @ Red wire connection, brake on reading, brake off reading.
Voltage @ Black wire connection, brake on reading, brake off reading.

Want me to take voltage readings on a black wire???
 
This break circuit has 2 red thick wires (from spades), one goes directly to the controller, the other to the battery. I can only measure the one to the battery, that's where I got the 18V.

Measured again the same red wire, pushing the brakes on and off, result was the same 28V.

LCD Panel is showing 29.2 V (My meter has only a secondary voltage scale of 600 max. That might explain...?)
 
We are talking about two different things... :confused:

There is the "Circuit Breaker" with two red wires that checks out good.

I was returning to the handle "Break switch" where this thread first started, to double check that. Red and black wires... :thumb:
 
I guess only now I made a good measure on those:
14V break off, 0 V break on
 
The miracle happened :lol:
After the above measurement, tested the motor, started running, have no idea why...

Hard to believe
 
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