Wow--I havent' seen that kind of destruction on a middrive since I had the overvolted powerchair motors on CrazyBike2.knurf said:
(repetition of that problem was why I eventually went hubmotor on it).
Dave's 80:1 RC mid drive kit build log
- Thread starter tangentdave
- Start date
(repetition of that problem was why I eventually went hubmotor on it).Hello !
I want to move the talon on the top of the motor and make a plastic housing with my -new- 3D printer, because in France there is a lot of mud and water during the winter.
At the same time, I will try to improve the thermal dissipation, during summer I've sometimes a thermal fault.
Someone knows where to find a better thermal dissipator for the Talon?
@knurf: I was close to order the same. Thanks to you for the feedback!
I want to move the talon on the top of the motor and make a plastic housing with my -new- 3D printer, because in France there is a lot of mud and water during the winter.
At the same time, I will try to improve the thermal dissipation, during summer I've sometimes a thermal fault.
Someone knows where to find a better thermal dissipator for the Talon?
@knurf: I was close to order the same. Thanks to you for the feedback!
tangentdave
1 kW
The Talon has a nice flat back side for attaching heat sinks or an aluminum plate. If you enclose the Talon, I'd suggest sealing around the back so it remains exposed for heat transfer. There are a variety of easy heat sinks available on Amazon or electronics retailers, look for computer heatsinks. These can be super cheap and the smaller size may let you arrange them easily:
Been a while since I updated here as I spent much of last year rebuilding 3220 kit I have here into something else entirely different from it's original build.
I have now modified a stealth style frame and mounted the tangent set up as a mid drive still directly to the swing arm, built a new sony vtc5a 18650 12s16p pack (with lots of help) that sits inside the frame. The ESC is mounted to a thick aluminium heat sink, again inside the frame box and all connectors (except the shunt...working on it) and cabling is 8awg and xt150.
I have been running it with the alfine 8 for about 700 miles or so now at a guess and it is just starting to show signs of slipping gears in the middle range since this new pack can pack such a huge wallop.
I have a new much bigger shunt to be installed as the stock one is only 50 amp continuous rating and 75mv...guessing this along with xt90 and series connectors running 10awg (!) were not helping voltage sag issues. (sag has reduced by simply upping to xt150 so far)
Just working on figuring out the correct wiring of the shunt to the CA3 and I'll see how this 300amp 50mv rated shunt helps!
Then I will play with single speed set ups and sprocket sizes for a while to see how it goes.
Thanks Dave, this little unit is holding up very well!
I have now modified a stealth style frame and mounted the tangent set up as a mid drive still directly to the swing arm, built a new sony vtc5a 18650 12s16p pack (with lots of help) that sits inside the frame. The ESC is mounted to a thick aluminium heat sink, again inside the frame box and all connectors (except the shunt...working on it) and cabling is 8awg and xt150.
I have been running it with the alfine 8 for about 700 miles or so now at a guess and it is just starting to show signs of slipping gears in the middle range since this new pack can pack such a huge wallop.
I have a new much bigger shunt to be installed as the stock one is only 50 amp continuous rating and 75mv...guessing this along with xt90 and series connectors running 10awg (!) were not helping voltage sag issues. (sag has reduced by simply upping to xt150 so far)
Just working on figuring out the correct wiring of the shunt to the CA3 and I'll see how this 300amp 50mv rated shunt helps!
Then I will play with single speed set ups and sprocket sizes for a while to see how it goes.
Thanks Dave, this little unit is holding up very well!
knurf
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2016
- Messages
- 129
Using my old 3210 in a 40:1 gearbox, a large front chain ring, a snowy uphill section and more than 90 amps, I finally tore through my frame (Specialized Epic 2006). It cut the weld clean through, in about the beefiest place of the frame, my money would have been on somewhere in the complicated linkage. Was good for about 2.5 years of Tangent bashing, including 1 year of winter commuting.
Very undramatic and no risk for injury but a 4km walk of shame, dragging the corpse.. Luckily I have a spare 2005 frame laying around so I ain't even mad
Very undramatic and no risk for injury but a 4km walk of shame, dragging the corpse.. Luckily I have a spare 2005 frame laying around so I ain't even mad
Well I have just test run the bike with the new shunt in place...holy cow is all I have to say...gears? Which is good because this upgrade fianlly tore my alfine 8 apart Who needs them now?! What a nuts upgrade...at first...
1) I perhaps wrongly assumed I then needed to alter the CA3 rshunt ohm value to match the new shunt (old grin rshunt value was 1 ohm) so I changed it to show 0.1666 (new shunt is 50mv and 300a = 0.16666?) and the next test ride the power "upgrade" has gone and power levels feel about the same as they were with the old shunt in place...did I need to alter the rshunt value at all?!
3) I wired in a key switch for the CA3 for completeness, which was just a simple break in the power wire. So I now have a main breaker on the battery power line in the form of an anti spark xt150 loop key which arms the ESC and the key which powers the CA3. If I leave the main battery breaker connected but turn the key for the CA3 off and then on again the bike enters some kind of cruise control and just sends power to the motor that can only be stopped if I turn the key off again...a little disconcerting especially as I have the three power modes set so that it is in low speed activated mode on first power up This doesn't happen if I pull the loop key and restart the whole procedure.
Any help or direction pointing is most appreciated?
I have also asked these questions in the CA beta thread fwiw
Who needs them now?! What a nuts upgrade...at first...1) I perhaps wrongly assumed I then needed to alter the CA3 rshunt ohm value to match the new shunt (old grin rshunt value was 1 ohm) so I changed it to show 0.1666 (new shunt is 50mv and 300a = 0.16666?) and the next test ride the power "upgrade" has gone and power levels feel about the same as they were with the old shunt in place...did I need to alter the rshunt value at all?!
3) I wired in a key switch for the CA3 for completeness, which was just a simple break in the power wire. So I now have a main breaker on the battery power line in the form of an anti spark xt150 loop key which arms the ESC and the key which powers the CA3. If I leave the main battery breaker connected but turn the key for the CA3 off and then on again the bike enters some kind of cruise control and just sends power to the motor that can only be stopped if I turn the key off again...a little disconcerting especially as I have the three power modes set so that it is in low speed activated mode on first power up
This doesn't happen if I pull the loop key and restart the whole procedure.Any help or direction pointing is most appreciated?
I have also asked these questions in the CA beta thread fwiw
Ham said:Well I have just test run the bike with the new shunt in place...holy cow is all I have to say...gears? Which is good because this upgrade fianlly tore my alfine 8 apart
What is this upgrade, I'm not following, must have missed it in the thread.
Is it just a different resistor? What does it allow for?
12-C said:Ham said:Well I have just test run the bike with the new shunt in place...holy cow is all I have to say...gears? Which is good because this upgrade fianlly tore my alfine 8 apart
What is this upgrade, I'm not following, must have missed it in the thread.
Is it just a different resistor? What does it allow for?
The shunt from grin is 100 amp peak rated and 50 continuous so in an effort to track my voltage sag issues I have been uprating parts along the line...moved to a massive shunt (300amp), all awg 8 and xt 150's everywhere...better so far. Now just to add another few strips of nickel to the battery pack for even less resistance in the line
tangentdave
1 kW
There's no need to disassemble the kits with the grease port. Just add 2-3mL Vigogrease RE0 every 3 to 4 rides or about every 100miles or so. Old grease forced out by the fresh, happy gears.
Evening folks,
I have just, finally, destroyed my crank freewheel on my Tangent kit and need a replacement. I am happy with either the Cyclone heavy duty or the White industries heavy duty one:
does any one know where I can get either in the UK or EU as I could really do with it being back on the road ASAP as it is my commuter bike.
Thanks in advance
I have just, finally, destroyed my crank freewheel on my Tangent kit and need a replacement. I am happy with either the Cyclone heavy duty or the White industries heavy duty one:
does any one know where I can get either in the UK or EU as I could really do with it being back on the road ASAP as it is my commuter bike.
Thanks in advance
Animalector
10 kW
post the issue in a new thread, chances are someone will be able to help you solve it
that's the power of the community mind...
Andy
that's the power of the community mind...
Andy
davius1911
1 µW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2017
- Messages
- 1
Just as the forum suggested, I did not check the torque on the crank arm bolts, and I lost one during a ride. Found the crank and pedal, but the bolt is long gone.
Does anyone know what standard those crank arm bolts are? I tried one I had laying around and the threads were not right.
Does anyone know what standard those crank arm bolts are? I tried one I had laying around and the threads were not right.
Ecyclist
1 kW
I don't have Tangent, but if you post a high resolution photo of a bolt that you still have next to a penny I should be able to tell.davius1911 said:
Ecyclist
1 kW
Solaire said:
Bingo.
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