Hey fetcher looks like each hall has a blue and a green going to it. The green is in the center of the hall. Which do you think is pos and neg?
EDIT: center is negative so Grn is black!
Hey fetcher looks like each hall has a blue and a green going to it. The green is in the center of the hall. Which do you think is pos and neg?
Thanks Pwd! I don't know why but I always solder my halls and throttle wiring, so my used Kelly controller wires get smaller and smaller everytime I lop them off for another project
EB this bike has no stock parts on it, the throttle is a Magura and controller is a Kelly. Bike works good nowelectricalbicycle wrote: ↑Jan 07 2019 9:19pmYou might want to check the stock Voloci throttle output Voltage. It seems to me that they have ONE Hall Sensor that puts out about half of the 5V. Since Nova Cruz/Voloci made their own controller, they could use any Voltage they wanted. Maybe Halls were expensive back in 2001?
The Kelly controller (and others) probably expect 0 (or near zero) to about 5V (or nearly 5V) that you would get from a dual Hall Sensored throttle.
If you are only sending half the throttle Voltage that the controller is expecting, you probably only get half the performance. Now, if you get double the performance by going to an off-the-shelf Dual Hall Sensor Throttle, watch out for your high Voltage battery pack and your thin (-ish) wires.
Ya the Voloci throttles could be fairly dangerous if your inexperienced, a few of the bikes I picked up had the magnet in the wrong position or even backwards so upon battery hookup the bikes would just go full throttleamberwolf wrote: ↑Jan 07 2019 10:20pmSingle-sensor hall throttles output a range usually from just under a volt to just around 4v, typically. Most of the common ebike controllers are designed around this range. Some hall throttles may use a different voltage range, but the majority of the ebike ones are this way.
Kelly controllers (at least some) have either programmable throttle input range, or at least switchable between the hall range and a potentiometer 0-5v type.
Dual hall throttles aren't built so that you get a greater voltage output range or greater power in a controller.
They are built so that they are safer---one hall goes up in voltage as the other goes down, so that a controller designed around this will sense a failure on either one and shutdown, so there can be no runaway throttle condition.
I didn't notice any heavy varnish or coating on the ends of the phases, but I will keep an eye on them once I start putting more power into itfechter wrote: ↑Dec 31 2018 1:19pmMaybe dumb question, but did you strip the insulation off the phase wires before putting them in the terminal block? Those are enamel coated copper and sort of a pain to strip. You might get contact without stripping them, but you might get a high resistance and heating under load.