New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Hello good morning, please someone can help me, connection accelerator according to manual three colors orange, black and white, in KTLCD · I have orange, blue and black, what is the connection?





Thank you
 
Hi,

Can you please help me.

I'm going to buy a new TSDZ2 motor.

I will use this motor to remove parts to replace the parts that would fail in the engine that I have installed.

From what I read, a few months ago, the TSDZ2 motors that are now being manufactured have new gears.

Do you know of any seller in Aliexpress that has these new engines?

Do you also know if both 36V and 48V motors have the new gears?

I'm going to buy a 48V motor.

I think the controller is the same on the 36V and 48V motor? Do you confirm?

Thanks
 
Popo15 said:
Hello good morning, please someone can help me, connection accelerator according to manual three colors orange, black and white, in KTLCD · I have orange, blue and black, what is the connection?
Click to expand...
See the wiki page of Wire KT LCD3 to TSDZ2:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2
 
AZUR said:
Hi,

Can you please help me.

I'm going to buy a new TSDZ2 motor.

I will use this motor to remove parts to replace the parts that would fail in the engine that I have installed.

From what I read, a few months ago, the TSDZ2 motors that are now being manufactured have new gears.

Do you know of any seller in Aliexpress that has these new engines?

Do you also know if both 36V and 48V motors have the new gears?

I'm going to buy a 48V motor.

I think the controller is the same on the 36V and 48V motor? Do you confirm?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You have some information on wiki TSDZ2 FAQ about the gears and the controller:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
 
Cristian said:
When i stop pedalling, the motor still spins for a 1-2 seconds. Is that normal? Is it related to the beta 2? Maybe it is something that was fixed in beta8 or should i downgrade to v0.18.2?
Click to expand...

Same on beta 8. Didn't use 0.18.x versions so don't know if those also have the issue, might try downgrading.
 
Cristian said:
The Open Source Firmware helps with the blue gear, because it has a 5A per second ramp up, so it is better in this case than the stock firmware. The blue gear will last a lot longer.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
I am going to try the new firmware as soon as I get my hands on the required components. Actually, can someone please help me with this from the wiki?

- Get a spare controller $30 from PSWPower and use the cables, seems best value as you will have a spare controller pcb

If I understand this refers to buying this
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Tongsheng-TSDZ2-contr-leur-de-moteur-central-de-v-lo-lectrique-pour-36-V-48-V/32841413972.html
in order to recycle the connector.
Yet the what I need is the female connector on the display side, not the controller's male connector, right?

Can't I just recycle the connector that comes from my existing VLCD5?

thanks
 
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Hi,

Can you please help me.

I'm going to buy a new TSDZ2 motor.

I will use this motor to remove parts to replace the parts that would fail in the engine that I have installed.

From what I read, a few months ago, the TSDZ2 motors that are now being manufactured have new gears.

Do you know of any seller in Aliexpress that has these new engines?

Do you also know if both 36V and 48V motors have the new gears?

I'm going to buy a 48V motor.

I think the controller is the same on the 36V and 48V motor? Do you confirm?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You have some information on wiki TSDZ2 FAQ about the gears and the controller:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
Click to expand...

Thanks Casainho.

I will see.
 
csbike said:
Cristian said:
The Open Source Firmware helps with the blue gear, because it has a 5A per second ramp up, so it is better in this case than the stock firmware. The blue gear will last a lot longer.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
I am going to try the new firmware as soon as I get my hands on the required components. Actually, can someone please help me with this from the wiki?

- Get a spare controller $30 from PSWPower and use the cables, seems best value as you will have a spare controller pcb

If I understand this refers to buying this
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Tongsheng-TSDZ2-contr-leur-de-moteur-central-de-v-lo-lectrique-pour-36-V-48-V/32841413972.html
in order to recycle the connector.
Yet the what I need is the female connector on the display side, not the controller's male connector, right?

Can't I just recycle the connector that comes from my existing VLCD5?

thanks
Click to expand...

You can cut off the VLCD5 connector. Or use the one that came with the lights splitter cable. (but you need to cut it open and only use the pins since it only has 2 wires installed)
 
Hi All - I just fitted a TSDZ2/48V, all stock & standard, but it appears to be defective. All appears well, but I get no significant assist at any level, but the motor is trying to do something. The throttle makes the chainwheel turn very slowly and gently. I made a video. Is this a known failure mode?

I'm looking forward to moving to the FOSS firmware, but first I need a working unit. I'm in a frustrating struggle right now to get some customer service from PSWPower.
 
jimmyfergus said:
Hi All - I just fitted a TSDZ2/48V, all stock & standard, but it appears to be defective. All appears well, but I get no significant assist at any level, but the motor is trying to do something. The throttle makes the chainwheel turn very slowly and gently. I made a video. Is this a known failure mode?

I'm looking forward to moving to the FOSS firmware, but first I need a working unit. I'm in a frustrating struggle right now to get some customer service from PSWPower.
Click to expand...

Maby speed sensor is too near hub, try to move it and speed sensor and magnet gap is important too.
 
btslo said:
Or use the one that came with the lights splitter cable. (but you need to cut it open and only use the pins since it only has 2 wires installed)
Click to expand...
That's also a good idea, but does the connector have the pins or just the holes? Have you or anyone else tried this solution? Are there pictures?
 
dameri said:
Maby speed sensor is too near hub, try to move it and speed sensor and magnet gap is important too.
Click to expand...

I should definitely experiment with that, but can that be a problem even if I'm seeing good speed readings? AFAICT I always see an appropriate speed.
 
AZUR said:
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Hi,

Can you please help me.

I'm going to buy a new TSDZ2 motor.

I will use this motor to remove parts to replace the parts that would fail in the engine that I have installed.

From what I read, a few months ago, the TSDZ2 motors that are now being manufactured have new gears.

Do you know of any seller in Aliexpress that has these new engines?

Do you also know if both 36V and 48V motors have the new gears?

I'm going to buy a 48V motor.

I think the controller is the same on the 36V and 48V motor? Do you confirm?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You have some information on wiki TSDZ2 FAQ about the gears and the controller:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
Click to expand...

Thanks Casainho.

I will see.
Click to expand...

Thanks Casainho. I already read the github and I was completely clear. The github is very important and it is very well done.

Thank you
 
csbike said:
btslo said:
Or use the one that came with the lights splitter cable. (but you need to cut it open and only use the pins since it only has 2 wires installed)
Click to expand...
That's also a good idea, but does the connector have the pins or just the holes? Have you or anyone else tried this solution? Are there pictures?
Click to expand...

It has the pins, I soldered the wires from KTLCD3 to the pins and it works without problem. (used heatshrink and electric tape on the connector and it holds strong)

https://i.imgur.com/LbQBLIb.jpg
 
jimmyfergus said:
Hi All - I just fitted a TSDZ2/48V, all stock & standard, but it appears to be defective. All appears well, but I get no significant assist at any level, but the motor is trying to do something. The throttle makes the chainwheel turn very slowly and gently. I made a video. Is this a known failure mode?

I'm looking forward to moving to the FOSS firmware, but first I need a working unit. I'm in a frustrating struggle right now to get some customer service from PSWPower.
Click to expand...

Hi!

Sorry, unrelated question about your video; I couldn't help noticing your bike light...

How is it working out for you?

I have also bought the same light, have not been able to test it though..
However, I did ask around, and there seem to be some indication that the system would not be able to provide enough oomph.

Would really appreciate if you could straighten out this question-mark for me!
Thanks a bunch!

(For anyone raking the forums down the lane; Busch + Müller IQ-X E )
 
csbike said:
Cristian said:
The Open Source Firmware helps with the blue gear, because it has a 5A per second ramp up, so it is better in this case than the stock firmware. The blue gear will last a lot longer.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
I am going to try the new firmware as soon as I get my hands on the required components. Actually, can someone please help me with this from the wiki?

- Get a spare controller $30 from PSWPower and use the cables, seems best value as you will have a spare controller pcb

If I understand this refers to buying this
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Tongsheng-TSDZ2-contr-leur-de-moteur-central-de-v-lo-lectrique-pour-36-V-48-V/32841413972.html
in order to recycle the connector.
Yet the what I need is the female connector on the display side, not the controller's male connector, right?

Can't I just recycle the connector that comes from my existing VLCD5?

thanks
Click to expand...

I was confused as well with what FAQ says. I think that version of controller without throttle is using the same type of connector as speed sensor, that's why spare controller was suggested (I might be wrong).
At the moment the best option with vldc5 in my opinion is:
Spare speed sensor with single connector for tsdz2 flashing.
Cut off the wire near vlcd5 and solder directly kt-lcd3 and brake sensors.
 
I got myself pair of these Bafang magnetic brake sensors to use with Opensource firmware, but now I see that these have 3 wires instead of 2.

Any idea if this type of sensors actually uses 3 wires?

US $9.20 | BAFANG Hydraulic Brake Sensor BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD Brake Sensor
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cEOSbpgM
 
btslo said:
csbike said:
btslo said:
Or use the one that came with the lights splitter cable. (but you need to cut it open and only use the pins since it only has 2 wires installed)
Click to expand...
That's also a good idea, but does the connector have the pins or just the holes? Have you or anyone else tried this solution? Are there pictures?
Click to expand...

It has the pins, I soldered the wires from KTLCD3 to the pins and it works without problem. (used heatshrink and electric tape on the connector and it holds strong)

https://i.imgur.com/LbQBLIb.jpg
Click to expand...

Not sure it would work for me, as I have a throttle version, so 8 pins. However, does this setup work for flashing the TSDZ2? it should, shouldn't it?
 
mittkonto said:
Sorry, unrelated question about your video; I couldn't help noticing your bike light...

How is it working out for you? ([...] Busch + Müller IQ-X E)
Click to expand...

I'm little use to you on driving it I'm afraid, as mine is the dynamo-driven (non-ebike) version of the light: the IQ-X.

I can tell you that I love my light and the E-bike version is 50% brighter. I've used mine for about the last 2 years for commuting/transportation riding. It feels like a moped light.

As with all German StVZO regulation lights it has a controlled beam pattern like a motor vehicle's dipped/low-beam, i.e. it has a sharp horizontal cutoff so it lights the road and ahead but doesn't shine in people's eyes or waste light on the sky and trees. They achieve the control by aiming the LED emitter backwards at a reflector as car lights do, rather than forwards through a diffracting optic as cruder LED lights do.

As such is definitely an on-road light. When I rode a nearby unlit path at night distant pedestrians ahead appear as disembodied legs because their body is unlit, and I got tapped on the head by tree branches I didn't see coming.

However since it's not wasting light on the sky, it's very efficient and bright where it does shine. It also has wide-directional visibility LEDs for daytime.

I also have the B&M Secula rear light which is very neat and quite bright too. Since German law requires generator lights to StVZO reg on all road bikes, buying them from Germany can be much less expensive, at least compared to US prices
 
mittkonto said:
However, I did ask around, and there seem to be some indication that the system would not be able to provide enough oomph.

Would really appreciate if you could straighten out this question-mark for me!
Thanks a bunch!

(For anyone raking the forums down the lane; Busch + Müller IQ-X E )
Click to expand...

I just bought this Busch + Müller Lumotec IQ Cyo Premium E Front Light for E-Bikes - 1752Q42/6N

I will be documenting the installation using a MOSFET to switch / power it. It has left Germany, so expect it next week down here in NZ.

Cheers
 
csbike said:
btslo said:
csbike said:
btslo said:
Or use the one that came with the lights splitter cable. (but you need to cut it open and only use the pins since it only has 2 wires installed)
Click to expand...
That's also a good idea, but does the connector have the pins or just the holes? Have you or anyone else tried this solution? Are there pictures?
Click to expand...

It has the pins, I soldered the wires from KTLCD3 to the pins and it works without problem. (used heatshrink and electric tape on the connector and it holds strong)

https://i.imgur.com/LbQBLIb.jpg
Click to expand...

Not sure it would work for me, as I have a throttle version, so 8 pins. However, does this setup work for flashing the TSDZ2? it should, shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Not sure for 8pin, that probably won't work no.

You can flash the motor directly with the cables supplied with STlink, just take off the plastic on one side and heatshrink the connectors and you can plug them directly into motor pins. (only need 3 for flashing anyways)
 
btslo said:
csbike said:
btslo said:
csbike said:
That's also a good idea, but does the connector have the pins or just the holes? Have you or anyone else tried this solution? Are there pictures?
Click to expand...

It has the pins, I soldered the wires from KTLCD3 to the pins and it works without problem. (used heatshrink and electric tape on the connector and it holds strong)

https://i.imgur.com/LbQBLIb.jpg
Click to expand...

Not sure it would work for me, as I have a throttle version, so 8 pins. However, does this setup work for flashing the TSDZ2? it should, shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Not sure for 8pin, that probably won't work no.

You can flash the motor directly with the cables supplied with STlink, just take off the plastic on one side and heatshrink the connectors and you can plug them directly into motor pins. (only need 3 for flashing anyways)
Click to expand...

mmm, do you mean make female connectors out of the heatshrink? will this be reliable? I would not like to brick the motor by flashing half a firmware.


what I was thinking of is the following setup.
connect the output of the STlinkV2 to the male connector of the light cable (probably need to cut the connector open and solder pins individually). Then connect this connector to one of the female connectors on the Y splitter, and connect the other female connector to the motor. Will this work for flashing? If it does I can avoid buying an extra speed sensor.


Thanks
[edited because I had misunderstood the flashing setup]
 
This works without problems for me:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1436645&hilit=cable#p1436645

Doubt you can brick the motor by losing connection temporarily. (but there might be a chance)
 
This works without problems for me:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1436645&hi ... e#p1436645

Doubt you can brick the motor by losing connection temporarily. (but there might be a chance)
Click to expand...
looks pretty good, but how did you make the "female connector" part? There's heatshrink but you also have hollow metal around it.
 
csbike said:
This works without problems for me:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1436645&hi ... e#p1436645

Doubt you can brick the motor by losing connection temporarily. (but there might be a chance)
Click to expand...
looks pretty good, but how did you make the "female connector" part? There's heatshrink but you also have hollow metal around it.
Click to expand...

I got it, it is the end of the dupont connector. But is it tight enough around the pins?
 
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