How to convert anderson plugs to Higo plugs?

Hi all, the controller (baserunner) I want to use has HiGo plugs and the motor (1kw) has anderson plugs. Which one should be preferable, and what would be the procedure to convert one type of plug to the other? I do have basic soldering skills, but I was curious aside from the basic checking the right wires are connecting, what are some other things I should look out for? Also, how do I tell which wire is which?

You can buy one of these on Ebay to get the Higo's and cut to length. Prices vary.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Pin-eBike-Front-Rear-Wheel-Hub-Motor-Female-to-Male-Extension-Connection-Cable/352677530063?hash=item521d3809cf:m:mGL0ZA9fdZsldL68-LpN57Q

You can use any wiring you want on your own bike, but if you want it to be standard, follow this wiring.


I find it pretty hard to join wires as big as the phase wiresin these round cables and still allow them to fit thru a axle nut. I like to take the metal tube out of a crimp connector and use it as a solder form. Cover with heat shrink. Stagger the connections and it makes a compact splice. If you have to solder the Hall sensor wires, those are thin and easy.

Hi, thanks for the reply. So I'm assuming its advised to do swap out the anderson for HiGO? Also, for the diagram on the left, is that the diagram for the male or female? Finally, as the motor I have I'm not sure if it follow industry standard, is there a way to test which hall wire is which?

The colors are the same on either side. There is a limit on the current that these plugs can handle, and it is probably less than Anderson plugs.

Good info here: https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html

From my experience I agree with that post, if all he connections were set for each other, Higo are pretty nice (some of my sabvaton connections for my LCD use them), but they can be a pretty big PITA to troubleshoot compared to something like Anderson PPs.

At the end of the day it doesn’t really matter and whatever you’re most familiar with/comfortable with/have the tools for, will be fine.

How big is the wire gauge? You can get crimping tools for Anderson PPs but if the gauge isn’t huge you can probably get away with pliers. That’s the nice thing about APPs is they’re crimped vs soldering. I prefer crimping when I can get away with it.

That said, I used Anderson PPs a lot in my early builds but slowly moved away from them. I more prefer bullet, straight up bolt on, and XT60/90 connections these days, but it depends if we’re talking phase wires vs battery.

crimping app

to small ga wire

strip amount insulation

fold strands covering insulation

crimp strands with insulation

nice strain relief

These days Anderson’s aren’t cool. But Higo are stupidly expensive. I use a lot of Anderson’s and have no issues. Easy to use and reuse if properly crimped and installed.

I bought a bunch of XT60 and XT90 in black when some here convinced me to give up on Anderson’s. But I’ve never used the XT I bought since I’ve yet to have a problem.

kcuf said:

crimp strands with insulation

Click to expand...

If you crimp with insulation inside the crimp, it doesn't compress all the metal to make it a single piece (cold weld). So the contact may not be as good, and can allow moisture into the crimp (whcih can corrode it over time), and the wire can also pull back out of the crimp under some circumstances. (I've crimped insulation into them by mistake before, and had these results).

Depends on your amps, if you want to swap to higo. Those plugs can get a bit warm, if you run 48v 25 amps through one.

But even if you did not run your phase wires through it, the higo would be a superior plug for just your halls wires.

Solder the connection on the halls. The big wires could be crimped, with the proper technique, and size of crimp splice.


One of the main advantages of the higo connector, is it fits though a torque arm, or spacer washer. To make your connection fit too, stagger the crimps on the big wires, as well as the hall splices. Keep it slim.

amberwolf said:

kcuf said:

crimp strands with insulation

Click to expand...

If you crimp with insulation inside the crimp, it doesn't compress all the metal to make it a single piece (cold weld). So the contact may not be as good, and can allow moisture into the crimp (whcih can corrode it over time), and the wire can also pull back out of the crimp under some circumstances. (I've crimped insulation into them by mistake before, and had these results).

Click to expand...

point is for large contacts

crimped to small gauge wire

obviously not high current


do as you wish

as will i

The BaseRunner comes with a very short Higo cable, so most bikes need an extension anyway. Making a custom Higo to Anderson adapter is cheap and easy and will let you combine your parts. I've always used Bafang Higo cables and cut them in half, they come with standard color coded wires.