My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Hi guys!
I could not find any information on anti-dumping duty issues!? Has anyone who imported this bike in EU paid this special additional tax?
I would like to buy one myself, but last year I was striked with 84% of anti-dumping duty (+8% regular duty + 20% vat) on a full electric bike as such.
 
Sinbord1981 said:
cerberpeter said:
Hi guys!
I could not find any information on anti-dumping duty issues!? Has anyone who imported this bike in EU paid this special additional tax?
I would like to buy one myself, but last year I was striked with 84% of anti-dumping duty (+8% regular duty + 20% vat) on a full electric bike as such.

I bought one and had it delivered to me in the United Kingdom (still part of the EU I think 😂). I paid 3.4% customs tax / duty on the overall price of what I paid to Frey (including the credit card fee that I opted to pay for security).

That's definitely a bargain :D
Maybe UK didn't enforce those anti-dumping duties like other EU regulations (driving with lights on during the day for example)


Anyone else from the EU?
 
International buyers: have you all purchased via alibaba?

Weird stats trivia -

According to the 'Transactions' tab on the alibaba listings for the AM1000 low end config bike [https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Top-quality-mountain-ebikes-with-Bafang_60727953227.html], there have been 3 transactions over the last 11 months,
and 1 transaction for the high end bike [https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Top-end-Bafang-Mid-Drive-Bafang_60681109431.html].
 
NoFanBoiz said:
International buyers: have you all purchased via alibaba?

Weird stats trivia -

According to the 'Transactions' tab on the alibaba listings for the AM1000 low end config bike [https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Top-quality-mountain-ebikes-with-Bafang_60727953227.html], there have been 3 transactions over the last 11 months,
and 1 transaction for the high end bike [https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Top-end-Bafang-Mid-Drive-Bafang_60681109431.html].

They have many similar/near identical offers, have you checked the others?
 
barbarossa said:
I also made these considerations. i first used a DT Swiss Hybrid H1900 - comes with 2 steel bodies (XD and HG - but only 3 pawl system). then i rebuild the H1900 hub to a ratchet hub ( 3pawl to 24 teeth ratchet with XD hybrid freehub body -yes it works only problem is the seal of the freehub body but i simply reused the H1900 seal - so now my H1900 is a H1700 hub :eek: ). the 240/350 and H1700 DT Swiss uses all the same ratchet system - only diffenrence : all hybrid hub bodies are made of steel. so you can also buy the steel hybrid body and mount it on a 350 hub (XD and HG are available - microspline is still only aluminium or lets say "non hybrid"). but i also build a new rear tire based on the Onyx Hub with a DT SWISS HX581 rim (27.5 35mm 32hole) - absolutely silent 8) . Onyx freehub body is also made of steel (but there are also aluminium ones available as spare parts).

Best cassettes are already mentioned : SRAM PG-1230 for HG and SRAM XG-1150 for XD.
i personally use them with shimano sp41 cable hose, jagwire ultra elite slick wire, shimano hg-x e8000 chain 138-version, sram eagle 12x rear derailleur and 11x XT shifter ( shifter as it comes with the Frey). i know - it is mixed - but very,very,very smooth shifting.

12x (and even 11x, besides the long needed chain length needed for the frey) might have problem with big tires, chain might rub against the big tire in the lowest gear, but normally the 11x cassettes have enough space. another thing to mention that sram rear derailleurs dont bent the lower chainline towards your tire like shimano rear derailleurs - have a look at the shimano rear derailleur cages - lower pulley is a little "bent" (its extreme with 12x 9100/8100/7100 where the whole cage is bent but it is also with 11x rear derailleurs). lower chainline with shimano might be a little better (because upper pulley is positioned better under the largest cog) but you loose some important millimeters so the chain can rub against the tire.

now its 1 year and 2000km with my frey am1000. and it is really smooth - i really love it :mrgreen:

Impressive Sramano setup, it's always fun to see what can be mixed and matched. Also a huge fan of Onyx hubs, using em front and back now as well! Are you excluding the small gear of the 12x cassette with using the 11x shifter? I've got my bike setup with 11x NX Sram derailleur and shifter on a Box 11-46 cassette, clears my 3.8 tire no problem and with good chainline. Ultra motor with a 50t Wolftooth narrow wide, stock cable housing still, xx1 chain but will swap to a connex 11sx next. Tis on a hardtail Biktrix.

One thing I noticed recently with the Box cassette, a bit more chain noise, the sprockets seem to be narrower than SRAm PG-1130s. Might mix and match a bit when I rebuild drivetrain next... Will do jagwire housing if I swap derailleur or shifter too.
 
cerberpeter said:
Sinbord1981 said:
cerberpeter said:
Hi guys!
I could not find any information on anti-dumping duty issues!? Has anyone who imported this bike in EU paid this special additional tax?
I would like to buy one myself, but last year I was striked with 84% of anti-dumping duty (+8% regular duty + 20% vat) on a full electric bike as such.

I bought one and had it delivered to me in the United Kingdom (still part of the EU I think 😂). I paid 3.4% customs tax / duty on the overall price of what I paid to Frey (including the credit card fee that I opted to pay for security).

That's definitely a bargain :D
Maybe UK didn't enforce those anti-dumping duties like other EU regulations (driving with lights on during the day for example)


Anyone else from the EU?
Just received my AM1000 high spec today. EU - Belgium with no extra costs! (Train)

So i can confirm. And am really really satisfied with the customer's support. Grace has been very responsive.

I post some pictures when i find some time.

Nice work Frey!
 
Deafcat said:
barbarossa said:
I also made these considerations. i first used a DT Swiss Hybrid H1900 - comes with 2 steel bodies (XD and HG - but only 3 pawl system). then i rebuild the H1900 hub to a ratchet hub ( 3pawl to 24 teeth ratchet with XD hybrid freehub body -yes it works only problem is the seal of the freehub body but i simply reused the H1900 seal - so now my H1900 is a H1700 hub :eek: ). the 240/350 and H1700 DT Swiss uses all the same ratchet system - only diffenrence : all hybrid hub bodies are made of steel. so you can also buy the steel hybrid body and mount it on a 350 hub (XD and HG are available - microspline is still only aluminium or lets say "non hybrid"). but i also build a new rear tire based on the Onyx Hub with a DT SWISS HX581 rim (27.5 35mm 32hole) - absolutely silent 8) . Onyx freehub body is also made of steel (but there are also aluminium ones available as spare parts).

Best cassettes are already mentioned : SRAM PG-1230 for HG and SRAM XG-1150 for XD.
i personally use them with shimano sp41 cable hose, jagwire ultra elite slick wire, shimano hg-x e8000 chain 138-version, sram eagle 12x rear derailleur and 11x XT shifter ( shifter as it comes with the Frey). i know - it is mixed - but very,very,very smooth shifting.

12x (and even 11x, besides the long needed chain length needed for the frey) might have problem with big tires, chain might rub against the big tire in the lowest gear, but normally the 11x cassettes have enough space. another thing to mention that sram rear derailleurs dont bent the lower chainline towards your tire like shimano rear derailleurs - have a look at the shimano rear derailleur cages - lower pulley is a little "bent" (its extreme with 12x 9100/8100/7100 where the whole cage is bent but it is also with 11x rear derailleurs). lower chainline with shimano might be a little better (because upper pulley is positioned better under the largest cog) but you loose some important millimeters so the chain can rub against the tire.

now its 1 year and 2000km with my frey am1000. and it is really smooth - i really love it :mrgreen:

Impressive Sramano setup, it's always fun to see what can be mixed and matched. Also a huge fan of Onyx hubs, using em front and back now as well! Are you excluding the small gear of the 12x cassette with using the 11x shifter? I've got my bike setup with 11x NX Sram derailleur and shifter on a Box 11-46 cassette, clears my 3.8 tire no problem and with good chainline. Ultra motor with a 50t Wolftooth narrow wide, stock cable housing still, xx1 chain but will swap to a connex 11sx next. Tis on a hardtail Biktrix.

One thing I noticed recently with the Box cassette, a bit more chain noise, the sprockets seem to be narrower than SRAm PG-1130s. Might mix and match a bit when I rebuild drivetrain next... Will do jagwire housing if I swap derailleur or shifter too.

you also have a nice configuration… so we have some almost identical components :mrgreen:

yeah, "Sramano" setup - sounds very nice... :bigthumb:

these Onyx hubs are really great !!! using them also front.

perhaps i wrote a little misleading, my setup:

cassette = sram xg-1150 10-42 11speed (to be honest i dont need the 50t from sram eagle so i am still 11speed)
rear derailleur= sram eagle xo1 12speed
shifter = Shimano M8000 XT 11speed
hose = Shimano SP41
shifter cable = jagwire ultra elite (highly recommended !!!)
chainring = Wolftooth 48t 130bcd narrow wide (Aluminium - but these chainrings are great, no problems so far)
hub = Onyx xd-freehub 148/12

the sram eagle 12speed rear derailleur has the same pull ratio as sram 11speed rear derailleur - so it has to work and in fact it is great. so i shift a 11speed sram cassette with an 11speed shimano shifter using a 12speed sram derailleur. best from both worlds. shimano shifter has instant release and 2up-shifts at once - sram cassette built is far more modern than shimano 11speed cassettes and upper pulley position of sram rear derailleur is better - al least i think so.

i also was thinking about the box or sunrace cassette with hg freehub but in the end i needed the 10teeth for higher speed :lol:
anyways i also tried an E13 9-46 cassette and i must say: there was noise, too. the problem : onyx hubs are so quiet so you hear even minimal noise of your chain and your cassette. so i returned to my good old sram 11x cassette… no noise at all. i highly recommend to try a sram cassette - in your case as you mentioned the pg-1130...

but hey 3.8 tires … wow...
 

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Sharp looking drivetrain! Definitely a tight setup and sounds like it's working well.

I think my next immediate experiment will be buying a SRAM PG-1230 cassette, which is the latest loose-cog HG choice (NX Eagle). I'm interested to compare sprocket thickness and geometry with the PG-1130 loose cogs, and those from the Box cassette as well...Figure out what runs most silently with the Connex chain and go from there. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the other 11-speed components I've got running, the NX-11 group parts are incredibly cost effective for such shifting finesse and reliability.

couple pretty recent pics since we're on drivetrain porn!

Er16XTQ.jpg


KytRet1.jpg
 
Deafcat said:
I think my next immediate experiment will be buying a SRAM PG-1230 cassette, which is the latest loose-cog HG choice (NX Eagle). I'm interested to compare sprocket thickness and geometry with the PG-1130 loose cogs, and those from the Box cassette as well...Figure out what runs most silently with the Connex chain and go from there. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the other 11-speed components I've got running, the NX-11 group parts are incredibly cost effective for such shifting finesse and reliability.
Do you feel you actually need that many gears? I am currently looking into drivetrains for mid drives and it seems to me that a 10-speed steel cassette 10/11-46t is all you would need. Do you really need such fine shifting increments with a powerful motor? SRAM"s ebike specific drivetrains are only 1x9, maybe that is actually for a reason and not just to sell 10/11/12x later on.
Additionally the 1x10 drivetrains should be less prone to wear because of the thicker cogs and chain, though I am unsure if that is an issue in real world scenarios with someone who doesn't ride and shift like an idiot.
Of course this is all based on reading and not practical experience so I would be interested in your take on this.

On a sidenote, how do you like the 27.5x4 Cake Eaters? I am currently contemplating (=dreaming about) a 27.5x4.5 CE setup for a not yet existent fat fully with a G521.
What terrain are you riding them in?
 
I use all my gears as I ride without power on weekends with friends, I've pretty much landed the exact gear range I was aiming for, and assisted top speed approaching 60km/h...with fat tires no less.

Chain life has been good, I'm mostly riding road, trail and gravel mix, clean chain regularly, 6 days a week riding about 120-140 km per week.

Tires wise, the Cake Eaters are incredibly quick and versatile fat tire, running around 9psi both of em, great compliance for a rigid bike and very nimble. I think other cyclists are a bit freaked out by how agile I am on em.
 
Deafcat said:
Sharp looking drivetrain! Definitely a tight setup and sounds like it's working well.

I think my next immediate experiment will be buying a SRAM PG-1230 cassette, which is the latest loose-cog HG choice (NX Eagle). I'm interested to compare sprocket thickness and geometry with the PG-1130 loose cogs, and those from the Box cassette as well...Figure out what runs most silently with the Connex chain and go from there. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the other 11-speed components I've got running, the NX-11 group parts are incredibly cost effective for such shifting finesse and reliability.

couple pretty recent pics since we're on drivetrain porn.

Yeah, drivetrain porn - your Onyx hub colour looks awesome ! I see you have already your next project ! That is the biktrix juggernaut ? Really nice !!!

Curious what your results will be ...especially the silence topic!
 
I hope my off topic posts are okay, given this thread is already so long I assume there is a fair bit of off-topic in it anyway.

Deafcat said:
I use all my gears as I ride without power on weekends with friends, I've pretty much landed the exact gear range I was aiming for, and assisted top speed approaching 60km/h...with fat tires no less.

Chain life has been good, I'm mostly riding road, trail and gravel mix, clean chain regularly, 6 days a week riding about 120-140 km per week.

Tires wise, the Cake Eaters are incredibly quick and versatile fat tire, running around 9psi both of em, great compliance for a rigid bike and very nimble. I think other cyclists are a bit freaked out by how agile I am on em.
Thanks for the reply, Deafcat!
So you're saying you want the high spread for high speeds and the high numbers of gears for biking with the motor turned off?
I would really wish they would just put a proper 600% gearbox in those motors and we would be done with all those archaic derailleurs...

How would you say are the hubs holding up? I found this German forum post where they say that Onyx doesn't particularly recommend their normal hubs for motors but says that 70Nm should be alright:
Onyx said:
"No problem with 70Nm for any of our hubs, however we do offer an e-bike specific hub that I’d recommend."
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
battery disassembly day.

Still applying the famous Australian motto "Don't turn it on, take it apart" :mrgreen:

Doing so mostly because I'm changing the BMS for a speedict neptune 15 (a very cool piece of kit) but also to check the assembly for potential issues...

So this is the 48V 21Ah model, 13S6P with supposedly LG MJ1 3.5Ah cells.

Casing is made by Reention (known for the "Dolphin" & "Whale" models), model is Dorado ID-something (their website is unbearingly slow these days...)

On opening,

first thing I'm worried with is that even though there are sealing lips provisioned on the plastic end caps, they are of no use with the aluminum body, so it's not great to prevent water ingress.

Is Reention using this part on other tubes with better design ? Or was the mold already done and they cheaped out on the body ? We'll never know but this sucks nonetheless.

If any serious rain riding is intended, adding some good electrical tape (like 3M 33) on the outside will help a lot.

A better version could be designed and 3D printed too. I might look into that when i'll run out of spares and need to change the stock connector sets.




Amongst the wire bundle, the main discharge leads are retained by selastic, all the others are free moving. Not a major issue as most are connector terminated. But, the 48->5V USB converter input is soldered in and quite poorly: wires are thin and have a 90° bend at the joint, with vibrations and wire movement, they will eventually break :!:

Things are pretty well insulated with all this cardboard around so a dead short is unlikely, but still. They could have secured it as they have done for the others surely. Or use a connector :roll:

Also, my negative converter input lead is damaged, was trapped in a screw post apparently, wtf :?

Anyways, I'm ditching this module so I'm not too worried, but you guys might want to check yours...









On the other end of the battery, we get the charge connector. Same remark about water ingress.
But here, the wires are held in place with selastic and use a connector for easy disassembly (more likely for faster production but hey ^^). Cool.

As a side note, the connector placement is quite strange on this battery.

The discharge port is located at the top of the downtube, whereas the charge one is at the bottom. This means the discharge cable runs the totality of the downtube to reach the motor. Voltage drop. Cable weight & cost. Poor design choices made by Reention there IMO.





Onto the BMS,

Looks quite decent. Controls charge and discharge on 1 lead. Measures 70 * 52mm. Around 8mm thick, but a much thicker one could easliy fit. Has a thermal cutoff sensor which states 90°C. PCBA is conformally coated, not perfectly but good enough. There are thermal pads on the alu spreader. Mosfets are SkySilicon, a Chinese brand, but with available specs. I did not looked much more into it as I'm swapping in the Neptune...








Now, onto the cells.

It was a MASSIVE PIA to get the cell array out.

A jig is probably used at the factory to force push the bundle in the casing.

First I removed all the selastic on the BMS side of the battery, to allow it to slide out unobstructed.

Then I cut a piece of wood approximately battery shaped, onto which I sticked a thick dense foam pad. I did not want to hammer directly on the cells, even through this makeshift padded shim.

Instead, I sat the battery on a pvc pipe I had laying around and repeatedly hammered (with a rubber mallet) on a side corner of the alu casing. Effectively pushing the casing down on the battery.

I also roasted the battery in the sun for a few minutes to allow the casing to expand (the cells themselves, with their high thermal mass remained cool). That helped quite a bit. Once 1/3 of the battery was out, this went much quicker.

Overall it took 30min+ of hammering :x








And, oh surprise. No LG MJ1 cells as advertised. Instead, we get Samsung 35E. 78 of them. In plastic holders.






I mean, they are good cells but I was sold a MJ1 pack... I don't like that. Asked Ivy about it, waiting her response.
If a change was made in production they should have told us and updated their product page.

From the research I've done, capacity is around the same but the 35E have a higher cutoff vs the other 3.5Ah cell (GA, MJ1) at 2.65V vs 2.5V. --> Set the motor LVC accordingly :!:

Voltage sag looks worse on the 35E and it seems they are quite bad in cycle life if fully discharged (dead at ~300 Cycles @ 100% DoD). So avoid like the plage fully draining your batteries...

It also happens they are ~15% cheaper than the MJ1...


Last, about all this green cardboard wraped on the cells. It's too much. This is what made the removal such a massive headache.

As can be seen on the below, the cardboard got scored by the screw holders within the tube, indicating again too much material. Plus if it's goal was to protect the battery it's moot as it's not covering the whole array. And there is some random white cardboard added, wtf :lol: :?:

Anyways, I'm going to rewrap it properly and will secure it with EASILY removable shims :D








Overall, I would say the build of the array itself is OK. The spot welds appear strong enough (6 points per cell).

Hi,

Did this battery pack for Bafang Ultra work with Neptune 15 BMS ?
Did you test it ?
Any advice ?
Thank you
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
battery disassembly day.

Still applying the famous Australian motto "Don't turn it on, take it apart" :mrgreen:
And, oh surprise. No LG MJ1 cells as advertised. Instead, we get Samsung 35E. 78 of them. In plastic holders.

Voltage sag looks worse on the 35E and it seems they are quite bad in cycle life if fully discharged (dead at ~300 Cycles @ 100% DoD). So avoid like the plage fully draining your batteries...

It also happens they are ~15% cheaper than the MJ1...

Is this false advertising from Frey in regard to battery type still occurring?
 
On their website it says they are "48V/21Ah with 78pcs Samsung3500mA cell".
Probably the older Alibaba posts might still have this "old" (mis)information; a quick search reveals that on the same advertisement it is stated:
"48V/21Ah with 78pcs Samsung 3500mA cells"
"48V/21Ah with 78pcs Samsung/LG 3500mA cells"
"48V/21Ah with 78pcs 3500mA cells"
"48V/21Ah with 78pcs lg 3500mA cells"
some of these are hard printed in images, which is probably why they haven't changed. But those ads also say 180 mm rear discs even though everything comes with 203. Comparing the LG's to the 35E they say the cycle life is less, but I can tell you that 1.5 years later and charging daily they still haven't sagged below a noticeable amount of Wh. Not saying I didn't complain when my battery invoice said LG and after asking they confirmed they had sent me the 35E as well.
 
They told me 35E Cells when I placed my order a couple of weeks ago.

I'm on the lookout for a better cell type to pick up as my 2nd battery. Who wants to volunteer to acquire the parts and build/sell? 🤔😁
 
El_Topo said:
I hope my off topic posts are okay, given this thread is already so long I assume there is a fair bit of off-topic in it anyway.

Deafcat said:
I use all my gears as I ride without power on weekends with friends, I've pretty much landed the exact gear range I was aiming for, and assisted top speed approaching 60km/h...with fat tires no less.

Chain life has been good, I'm mostly riding road, trail and gravel mix, clean chain regularly, 6 days a week riding about 120-140 km per week.

Tires wise, the Cake Eaters are incredibly quick and versatile fat tire, running around 9psi both of em, great compliance for a rigid bike and very nimble. I think other cyclists are a bit freaked out by how agile I am on em.
Thanks for the reply, Deafcat!
So you're saying you want the high spread for high speeds and the high numbers of gears for biking with the motor turned off?
I would really wish they would just put a proper 600% gearbox in those motors and we would be done with all those archaic derailleurs...

How would you say are the hubs holding up? I found this German forum post where they say that Onyx doesn't particularly recommend their normal hubs for motors but says that 70Nm should be alright:
Onyx said:
"No problem with 70Nm for any of our hubs, however we do offer an e-bike specific hub that I’d recommend."

Well, there's always the Rohloff if you want internal gears. It would be extremely difficult to put 600% gearing anywhere else unfortunately. I'm personally a big fan of derailleurs, they are light, fast, low cost, and easy to keep working... And lots of room to make alterations.

For the Onyx rear hub: I went with the steel driver body, and doubt the twin sprag clutches inside steel races will ever fail. Superb hub design.
 
Hi All,

Sorry to insist, but anyone have any return about Neptune 15 BMS in this battery pack ?
Does it fill well?
Does it work out of the box ? I mean, stock, the motor seems to have a communication with the BMS, I don't think the Neptune permit that.
Any info ?
Thank you.
 
-JFK- said:
Hi,
Did this battery pack for Bafang Ultra work with Neptune 15 BMS ?
Did you test it ?
Any advice ?
Thank you

I've installed the neptune and it works great! Tight fit however, not for the feint of heart.
 
Marmalade said:
-JFK- said:
Hi,
Did this battery pack for Bafang Ultra work with Neptune 15 BMS ?
Did you test it ?
Any advice ?
Thank you

I've installed the neptune and it works great! Tight fit however, not for the feint of heart.

Thanks !
On the disassembly photos (attached), I see 5 white wires, do you know what is for ?
It's simply some wires of the balancing ?

Did this battery case come from : http://www.reention.com/product/detail/91 ?
Thank you.
 

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Hi guy's, lot of solid info on this topic, thanks!

Im looking to order one full spec, 48v 21Ah battery.

Has anyone of you guy's changed the stock Bafang 44T chainring to a smaller 36/38 one?
Top speed is not very important for me.
 
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