How to Make an EVG 36 Volt SX Traffic Worthy in Dallas, TX Neighborhoods?

Hi. I'm back after a 4 year hiatus from this forum. I'm not sure if the old timers are still here, like Snellemin.

This bike's motor and controller are gently used maybe 20 times; the rest of it is road worn by me losing strength and dropping it on the ground repeatedly 3 years ago...because....I'm 54 and undergone some physcial changes. I don't have a man's strength. So why would I keep it now that Iaccocca has passed? Answer: Dallas is full of idiots that won't buy it no matter how much demo or info you give them. HIghest offer has been $50, which was flatly insulting, after the ad describing the motor's value alone as $350.00.

Currently, I'm only 5 feet tall, age 54, and this bike's seat and seat rod are not my friends anymore; I will need to sit virtually flush on top of the black plastic housing for my arms and legs to work. This bike is for all practical purposes, going to have to transform into my own personal Shetland Pony.

But back to the main concern....so that this bike gets a rebirth.

If this bike's chromoly frame will NOT remain stable inside if I remove the rods which house the battery box (for, *gasp*, fitting a FOSSIL FUEL POWER motor) ...what can I do electrically?

Thoughts I've had: use magic pie 2 motors instead of one brushed hub motor, a bigger controller, an additional disc brake, fatter tires, more spokes if necessary.

Please go slowly if you can help me. I'm not into E-Bike jargon, I am NOT an electrician, and I am not familiar with the people in Dallas that could do the modifying. But if you throw me a few clues, I can take the ball and run with it.

Seraffa said:

HIghest offer has been $50, which was flatly insulting, after the ad describing the motor's value alone as $350.00

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Well, since you can buy a pretty powerful (relative to it) modern hubmotor for that money, I can see why anyone that knows that wouldn't agree on the motor's value. Not to be insulting, just realistic. Unfortunately even if it was unused, and just needed new batteries, it wouldn't have a high resale value. (more than youv'e been offered, but not a very high price). It *is* a good motor...but only for those that have a specific use or need for it.

Currently, I'm only 5 feet tall, age 54, and this bike's seat and seat rod are not my friends anymore; I will need to sit virtually flush on top of the black plastic housing for my arms and legs to work.

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You can lower the saddle all the way down to the top of the existing seattube's clamp, but unless you're willing to build your own mount for a seat that will place you where you need to be, that's the lowest you can get it and have it stay in place safely.

I'm just a hair younger, and I now use a custom-built trike, with a sling seat (actually a "bleacher chair") on top of the cargo box; it's about as high as a typical chair; I can put my feet flat on the ground if I scoot forward on the seat edge when I stop. I didn't require that before, but now that my back is messed up (SI joint) I am very glad I built it this way. Much easier to get on and off and more comfortable to ride (and can still pedal it, in theory, without the motor, very very very slowly, which I could not do with a bike, as it wouldn't be balanceable that slow, where the trike is).

If this bike's chromoly frame will NOT remain stable inside if I remove the rods which house the battery box (for, *gasp*, fitting a FOSSIL FUEL POWER motor) ...what can I do electrically?

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I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but if you mean to remove the frame tubes/etc that are below the top tube between the seat and the handlebars, then unless you install new tubes that do the same support job those did, the frame will eventually collapse. (unless the gas engine you install has it's own support system that does this job).

Thoughts I've had: use magic pie 2 motors instead of one brushed hub motor, a bigger controller, an additional disc brake, fatter tires, more spokes if necessary.

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Since I don't know why you'd need more spokes, or two motors, etc., you'll have to provide more info.

Some of the stuff we really need to know to help you find the right stuff:
-- what speeds you need,
-- how quickly you need to accelerate,
-- the range you need at the fastest speed,
-- if you will have a lot of stops and starts,
-- if there's any hills (not many in DFW area, but there's some I vaguely recall from when I lived in Irving in the early 80s for a few months).
-- budget
-- weight of cargo, passenger(s), etc.,
-- any other specific info you can give, as much detail as possible



I found your original thread, and I"m guessing you never did modify anything?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62613


If you still have the same high speed goal, you'd be much better off spending the money on a "cheap" $3000-$5000 electric "motorcycle" (scooter, really), because to make this bike safely do that, you'd have to replace pretty much everything, and probably modify the frame itself.

Nothing wrong with doing that, but it's not all that simple, and it's not cheap, will cost more than buying something premade to do it by the time you're done.

(and then you also have the legal issues of going that fast on a bicycle;--I dunno how LEOs are there, but it's not uncommon for them to take a dim view of unregistered motorcycles, which is what it would probably be by the state laws there).

True, yes, you found my original thread yes and not modified yet. The back red portion (only) of the tail light cracked off, and those pesky wires that run from the controllers housing to the tail light are losing their outer black casing and flopping around on that strange luggage rack it comes with.

These days i realize a reverse 3 wheel gas trike like the Icebear Atlas would be just the thing for high speed at my age so the 65 mph and up would not be a goal for this bike unless a 3rd wheel was installed.

Snellemin has a public youtube video where he goes about 40 mph on his modified EVglobal with pedal assist. I with my thyroid issues am 235 lbs at this point so surely could not expect same speeds unless extensive modification keeps happening or I lose weight. I live in an very decent apartment in las collinas and wonder quite a lot about security and all weather protection required once modifications are done and passersby can eyeball motors and batteries.

I can answer more of your questions later today.....but for now what would be the cheapest source for cutting/welding services if the frame were modified?

And that seat post; especially the 4 inches between 2 separate nuts....what is THAT section all about and cant it just be cut off or removed?

Seraffa said:

True, yes, you found my original thread yes and not modified yet. The back red portion (only) of the tail light cracked off, and those pesky wires that run from the controllers housing to the tail light are losing their outer black casing and flopping around on that strange luggage rack it comes with.

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Wires are easy enough to fix, and it may look less than stellar but you could "fill" the taillight with clear silicone to keep water out of it, since you wouldn't be servicing it if it failed anyway--you'd probably just replace it.

These days i realize a reverse 3 wheel gas trike like the Icebear Atlas would be just the thing for high speed at my age so the 65 mph and up would not be a goal for this bike unless a 3rd wheel was installed.

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That bike wouldn't make a very good trike, except for slow (<15mph) speeds, using a "trike kit" that replaces the rear wheel and makes it a delta trike.

If you wanted a trike you'd be best to start from scratch, or buy a dedicated one, like you say.

However, the main issue you would run across with any typical bike stuff for that high a speed is it's not built for it, unless you are buying expensive DH / etc stuff, and it would cost so much that just buying a vehicle intended for those speeds is cheaper. (whether gas or electric). (and that doesn't touch on issues with law enforcement/legality)

Quite a few people "get away with" using cheap bike stuff at those speeds...but if anything breaks it's usually catastrophic and I wouldn't make any bets on a good outcome. It's not really about weight, but rather how the parts are designed and made, and the energies of impact from bumps, stops, friction, etc that they see at the higher speeds and stopping from those speeds. So while you can certainly try it, I wouldn't recommend it.

I live in an very decent apartment in las collinas and wonder quite a lot about security and all weather protection required once modifications are done and passersby can eyeball motors and batteries.

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Best antitheft there is is never letting it leave your sight. If you have to leave it alone, having it look the junkiest and trashiest it possibly can is the next best deterrent. But if a thief wants it, they'll take it. No lock, no alarm, etc., will stop them or even significantly slow them down.

I can answer more of your questions later today.....but for now what would be the cheapest source for cutting/welding services if the frame were modified?

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Cheapest? Buying the $150-$200 welder from Harbor Freight, and doing it yourself, after practicing on junk bike frames and other metal. That's what I did, and now I build my own stuff mostly from scratch (usually out of junk).

Other than that, finding individuals in your area that you would trust to work on your stuff, that would trade you work for work, if you can do work that they need.

You might be lucky and able to make friends with someone at a welding shop that takes an interest in your project, and get a cheaper rate.

Some places there are community workshops, or "maker workshops", or similar places, that have either free or membership access to the tools there and instruction on how to use them, so you could look around for those.

And that seat post; especially the 4 inches between 2 separate nuts....what is THAT section all about and cant it just be cut off or removed?

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From the pics I've seen, it looks like a suspension seatpost. If you don't want it, you can just change to a standard seatpost, available on any old junked bike as long as it's the right diameter (there are at least two or three sizes). YOu might be able to trade it in at a bike shop for a used standard post of the right size.

Hmm, you got a dilemma for sure on security. Ugly as hell helps with bike theft, but in big cities, they take your bike for the 2 bucks they can get for its scrap value. Running without the frame covers will help some.


Some more expensive kits do have better waterproofing, but you should still cover the bike in the big rains.

As for better performance, there is a reason only a few will pay much for that motor. Its a really nice Heinsmann brushed motor, but, its about as desirable as an old volkswagon to most. Great tech then, but this is almost two decades into the new century.

Part it out though, and you can ship the motor, controller, etc to somebody who is into it. Then you might get 350 for all the parts.

Then put an affordable 48v rear hub motor kit, including a new lithium battery on the bike. Rear rack carry the battery, unless it just happens to fit in the old frame box.


Seat post should have marks on it that give its diameter in mm. Then you can buy a non suspension post the same size, on ebay, or the bike shop.

Just for a reality check, that motor is worth maybe $40 to the right person. I literally threw a couple away recently because I couldn't give them away. Every one of these bikes got a modern brushed motor. So depending on your region they're common and unwanted, hence low value.



Also, there no way, in any configuration, these bikes will be safe over about 40mph. The frame is plenty sturdy... It's just that the rubber contact patch of the tires can't handle slowing down aggressively above that. But up to around there, they're fun bulletproof mules.

Thank you so much for all your helps! This has been a great combo of advice.....I did a bit of welding in art school so the welding kit at harbor freight was a delightful surprise to learn!

My ultimate decision is to become an Electric Paramotorist, buy the solar charging units for my home, strap the electric motor on my back, ride sans brushed hub motor and with new seat; fill in cracked rear light, replace the battery cells, retain the battery housing, retain the horn, disc brake, and head light.

No waste, no want............no wrecked dreams.....

And I can either ride or fly to work.

The Las Collinas police a reason to either wave, or pull me over for a fresh donut and coffee and release me.
Glad I have those VIN numbers on the pedals in case DMV knows my story and wants to see me. Plenty of money leftover for any registration or plating rule they might dream up in the next few years.

HAPPY TRAILS!!!!!!