New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

RicMcK said:
My ideas are that I could put it on the bottom of the cross tube, the bottom of the stoker top tube, or the rear rack. If I mount it upside down I will add some secondary straps to secure it. Do you think it would be OK on the bottom cross tube? I wonder if there is enough ground clearance.
Click to expand...

Under the top tube with straps looks good. It's probably wasted space anyway, unless you normally have a frame bag there. Just check first to make sure there is no rubbing on the stoker's legs. I wouldn't put it under the bottom tube, as you probably already have clearance issues there over bumps, curbs etc due to the long wheel base and will end up scraping the battery or getting stuck on something.
 
RicMcK said:
With the help of the community I have a plan for the motor and chainring ect. Thank you :D.

My new question is about mounting the battery. I want to use the same battery I am already have, as I don't need 2 batteries as I can only ride one bike at a time. Sadly the battery is about 1.5cm too long to fit in the front or lower triangle. I opened up the case and there is no space to cut out. I could remove the 2 bottle cages in the upper stoker triangle but we need them for water.

My ideas are that I could put it on the bottom of the cross tube, the bottom of the stoker top tube, or the rear rack. If I mount it upside down I will add some secondary straps to secure it. Do you think it would be OK on the bottom cross tube? I wonder if there is enough ground clearance.
Click to expand...

When you do a conversion you have to make compromises. The best spot for that battery is where the water bottles are in the stoker position. In fact, I just did a Cannondale tandem just like that and the Jumbo Shark battery mounted perfectly in that spot.

Cannondale tandem BBSHD.jpg

Don't mount it under the bottom tube. You would be asking for trouble. There are a lot more creative solutions for waterbottles than for batteries. However, if you need waterbottle mounts in another spot there are a few creative solutions here: https://www.electrifybike.com/store/c20/DIY_Conversion_Craft.html#/ Note the Bottle Bob and E-Rad products. You can also add rivnuts to the frame if needed.
 
Demion said:
Anyone tried using Shimano Steps FC-E6000 crank arms? I tried 175mm and when I tighten they are not moving freely. Original crank arms fit well. I have 73mm bottom bracket. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yeah I just ran into the same issue, the holes are bigger than the stock crank arms so instead of leaving an air gap between the bottom bracket and the arm they grind against each other. IDK whats the solution except a shim to make the spindle holes smaller?
 
hydrinium.h2 said:
Demion said:
Anyone tried using Shimano Steps FC-E6000 crank arms? I tried 175mm and when I tighten they are not moving freely. Original crank arms fit well. I have 73mm bottom bracket. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yeah I just ran into the same issue, the holes are bigger than the stock crank arms so instead of leaving an air gap between the bottom bracket and the arm they grind against each other. IDK whats the solution except a shim to make the spindle holes smaller?
Click to expand...

Have newer models shortened the axle? Mine seem don't seem to protrude very much at all, about 17mm. This post has a picture that I shows some differences. So maybe changing the crank arms is not so necessary any more?

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1481931#p1481931
 
You have the fc-e6000 installed on an older model and they're fine? Mine is from this year so I guess the spindles are shorter. Would you mind posting a picture to show the size of the gap between the crank and the bottom bracket?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wThQH5Iy9uQ&feature=youtu.be&spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.3d073e5f88QQK2 in this video at 0:40 the guy uses a scale to see if the motor will fit. Does someone knows the dimensions of the scale, so i could check if i have enough clearance on my fat bike. Or if someone could measure what i indicated on photo so i could check if i need 100mm or 120mm motor. The picture i found online. Thank you.
ZTiVFye.jpg
 
I just installed my new TSDZ2 36v and 48v battery on my purpose-built cargo bike. I am very disappointed by the performance of overvolting. I expected it to be like experimental high cadence 36v on my v0.16 TSDZ2 which is on my other bike. It's not even close.

I have v 0.19 of the firmware and a KTLCD3. I reset everything to factory defaults and setup the motor as type 1 (36v). there is no discernible increase in cadence with the48v battery when compared to swapping it for the 36v battery. and it doesn't seem to register cadence correctly with the 48v battery it eratic. sometimes high sometimes low.

It runs fine with the 36v battery. the new 36v experimental high cadence mode is much improved over v0.16.

I tried the new motor (with 48v battery) in mode 0 (48v) it feels teh same as mode 1. However, in mode 3 (experimental high cadence 36v) it flies. its brilliant.

So my question is - whats the danger with keeping the 48v battery and running in experimental high cadence mode 36v ?

I'm very tempted to return the battery and just get another 36v one. Thoughts?
 
Bartman said:
I just installed my new TSDZ2 36v and 48v battery on my purpose-built cargo bike.

So my question is - whats the danger with keeping the 48v battery and running in experimental high cadence mode 36v ?
Click to expand...
Please post pictures of your cargo bike!! There aren't much pictures of cargo bikes with TSDZ2.

The high cadence modes should be less efficiency, using more battery power and maybe heating more the motor controller. By now, I think some users already use this mode and no one reported any fatal issue like motor or motor controller burned so I think is probably safe to use it.

You can try find what is limiting the motor RPM and hence cadence, see your values of battery current, motor ERPS and motor PWM ducty-cycle -- see my graphs here showing this variables:

Here is an example of a real riding I did, pulling about 13 amps from my battery that is the max it can handle.

As you can see, the duty-cycle and the motor ERPS values were not at their max values (255 and 525 respectively) but if I was using the max cadence or the max motor power for the battery available, the motor hits his limit even if I pedal harder/use higher assist level. Because of this, I would like to show some warning to user when the motor power hits the limit, maybe changing the power power number from white to orange or something like that.





















 
casainho said:
Bartman said:
I just installed my new TSDZ2 36v and 48v battery on my purpose-built cargo bike.

So my question is - whats the danger with keeping the 48v battery and running in experimental high cadence mode 36v ?
Click to expand...
Please post pictures of your cargo bike!! There aren't much pictures of cargo bikes with TSDZ2.

The high cadence modes should be less efficiency, using more battery power and maybe heating more the motor controller. By now, I think some users already use this mode and no one reported any fatal issue like motor or motor controller burned so I think is probably safe to use it.

You can try find what is limiting the motor RPM and hence cadence, see your values of battery current, motor ERPS and motor PWM ducty-cycle -- see my graphs here showing this variables:

Here is an example of a real riding I did, pulling about 13 amps from my battery that is the max it can handle.

As you can see, the duty-cycle and the motor ERPS values were not at their max values (255 and 525 respectively) but if I was using the max cadence or the max motor power for the battery available, the motor hits his limit even if I pedal harder/use higher assist level. Because of this, I would like to show some warning to user when the motor power hits the limit, maybe changing the power power number from white to orange or something like that.
Click to expand...

I'll take some photos over the next day or so and post them here. I specifically built it for the TSDZ2. If I keep the 48v battery, I'll be overvolting the 36v experimental high cadence mode, and my main concern is heat. I live in the highlands of Scotland and heat isn't usually a problem, but we have some high temperatures just now, in the mid 20 degrees.
 
Is there any difference between the 48V motors? IE 500, or 750W? Except for the price?
 
Rydon said:
RicMcK said:
With the help of the community I have a plan for the motor and chainring ect. Thank you :D.

My new question is about mounting the battery. I want to use the same battery I am already have, as I don't need 2 batteries as I can only ride one bike at a time. Sadly the battery is about 1.5cm too long to fit in the front or lower triangle. I opened up the case and there is no space to cut out. I could remove the 2 bottle cages in the upper stoker triangle but we need them for water.

My ideas are that I could put it on the bottom of the cross tube, the bottom of the stoker top tube, or the rear rack. If I mount it upside down I will add some secondary straps to secure it. Do you think it would be OK on the bottom cross tube? I wonder if there is enough ground clearance.
Click to expand...

When you do a conversion you have to make compromises. The best spot for that battery is where the water bottles are in the stoker position. In fact, I just did a Cannondale tandem just like that and the Jumbo Shark battery mounted perfectly in that spot.

Cannondale tandem BBSHD.jpg

Don't mount it under the bottom tube. You would be asking for trouble. There are a lot more creative solutions for waterbottles than for batteries. However, if you need waterbottle mounts in another spot there are a few creative solutions here: https://www.electrifybike.com/store/c20/DIY_Conversion_Craft.html#/ Note the Bottle Bob and E-Rad products. You can also add rivnuts to the frame if needed.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I think I will do as your photo and move 1 bottle to seat tube, or I might be able to fit the battery all the way down to the seat tube and have room for a bottle in front of it. Rivnuts are a great idea, I forgot about them for the relocation of the bottle cage.

Thanks
 
I saw some posts about only buying the 850C display from a specific vendor because they have the "correct one" (can be hacked & has the required memory), but the final recommendation was not clear to me. How do I specify or know that I am ordering the correct version (hackable)? Or is there a specific store that only sells the correct -hackable version?

Thanks
 
RicMcK said:
I saw some posts about only buying the 850C display from a specific vendor because they have the "correct one" (can be hacked & has the required memory), but the final recommendation was not clear to me. How do I specify or know that I am ordering the correct version (hackable)? Or is there a specific store that only sells the correct -hackable version?
Click to expand...
You should ask the seller, that will be the safe way.
 
casainho said:
RicMcK said:
I saw some posts about only buying the 850C display from a specific vendor because they have the "correct one" (can be hacked & has the required memory), but the final recommendation was not clear to me. How do I specify or know that I am ordering the correct version (hackable)? Or is there a specific store that only sells the correct -hackable version?
Click to expand...
You should ask the seller, that will be the safe way.
Click to expand...

OK thanks. What do I need to ask? Is there a specific version# or some other ID that will help both the vendor and myself be sure I get the correct one?
 
RicMcK said:
casainho said:
RicMcK said:
I saw some posts about only buying the 850C display from a specific vendor because they have the "correct one" (can be hacked & has the required memory), but the final recommendation was not clear to me. How do I specify or know that I am ordering the correct version (hackable)? Or is there a specific store that only sells the correct -hackable version?
Click to expand...
You should ask the seller, that will be the safe way.
Click to expand...

OK thanks. What do I need to ask? Is there a specific version# or some other ID that will help both the vendor and myself be sure I get the correct one?
Click to expand...
Not that I am aware of. The information I have is the one that is on the wiki.
 
casainho said:
RicMcK said:
casainho said:
RicMcK said:
I saw some posts about only buying the 850C display from a specific vendor because they have the "correct one" (can be hacked & has the required memory), but the final recommendation was not clear to me. How do I specify or know that I am ordering the correct version (hackable)? Or is there a specific store that only sells the correct -hackable version?
Click to expand...
You should ask the seller, that will be the safe way.
Click to expand...

OK thanks. What do I need to ask? Is there a specific version# or some other ID that will help both the vendor and myself be sure I get the correct one?
Click to expand...
Not that I am aware of. The information I have is the one that is on the wiki.
Click to expand...

Sorry to be such a clueless user.

Can you please point me (links) to the page(s) where I can find the information on the proper model number(s) for the 850c , flashing process, and controller & display hex files?
 
RicMcK said:
Sorry to be such a clueless user.

Can you please point me (links) to the page(s) where I can find the information on the proper model number(s) for the 850c , flashing process, and controller & display hex files?
Click to expand...
Follow the manual how to install the firmware, all the information is there.
 
Is there a way to have the light circuit on all the time, then by doing the long press + to change the display brightness? I am asking because I would like have the ability to have my headlight flashing all the time (there is a separate power button on the light - off, flashing, high&low). Then when it is dark change the display brightness.
Thanks
 
Hey

Anyone who can help me over here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=101549 I'm trying to figure out how to take the spider off my bike, but it simply won't come off (pics and videos in that thread).
 
feketehegyi said:
Hello, do you know if this big gear in my TSDZ2 the spur one? Do you have maybe good pictures how the spur and helical TSDZ2 big gears look like?

tsbiggear.jpg
Click to expand...
See on wiki FAQ, there are pictures comparing them: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
    • Like
Really good article comparing Bafang vs. Tongsheng vs. CYC
Replies
12
Views
10,587
999zip999
999zip999
E-HP
    • Like
DIY Newb FAQ?
Replies
20
Views
2,394
neptronix
neptronix
B
Intro guide to TSDZ2 & BBS02 (updated 2021)
2
Replies
35
Views
17,263
docw009
docw009
Back
Top