TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

cnrd said:
buba said:
Could you reset everything and see if that helps?

------------------------

Step 1: Go to the Configuration Menu

Step 2: Go to the "Reset to factory defaults" under General Setup

Step 3: Increment the number until the screen is blank/turns off

Step 4: When the screen is blank/off, hold the ONOFF button for a couple of seconds. This is important!

Step 5: Release the ONOFF button

Step 6: Power on...

Hey thanks

Unfortunately nothing seems to help, I did also try flashing the alpha2, nothing.

The motor works fine with marcoq 0.3.5 and the stock display, so the motor does work.

I think that I may have messed up the wiring, I cut the male connector off a bafang 1-to-4 cable and soldered on a female connector, using the following mapping:

Bafang - TSDZ2
Brown - Blue
Orange - Red
Green - Brown
White - Green
Yellow - Yellow
Red - White
Blue - Orange
Black - Black

Used this picture for bafang pinout: https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=77817&d=1541800588

I also put a female connector on the KT-LCD3 with the following mapping:
Wire color - Solder pad
Yellow - Red
Blue - Blue
Red - Black
Black - Green
Green - Yellow

I had to do this as the stock bafang display pinout does not match the KT-LCD3.

Are these correct? Or is there a guide somewhere that I missed on how to create the cable?

Sorry, it was a long time ago I connected everything and I am not the best to help with these kind of things but:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-LCD-to-TSDZ2

Maybe someone else here on the thread can help?
 
cnrd said:
buba said:
Could you reset everything and see if that helps?

------------------------

Step 1: Go to the Configuration Menu

Step 2: Go to the "Reset to factory defaults" under General Setup

Step 3: Increment the number until the screen is blank/turns off

Step 4: When the screen is blank/off, hold the ONOFF button for a couple of seconds. This is important!

Step 5: Release the ONOFF button

Step 6: Power on...

Hey thanks

Unfortunately nothing seems to help, I did also try flashing the alpha2, nothing.

The motor works fine with marcoq 0.3.5 and the stock display, so the motor does work.

I think that I may have messed up the wiring, I cut the male connector off a bafang 1-to-4 cable and soldered on a female connector, using the following mapping:

Bafang - TSDZ2
Brown - Blue
Orange - Red
Green - Brown
White - Green
Yellow - Yellow
Red - White
Blue - Orange
Black - Black

Used this picture for bafang pinout: https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=77817&d=1541800588

I also put a female connector on the KT-LCD3 with the following mapping:
Wire color - Solder pad
Yellow - Red
Blue - Blue
Red - Black
Black - Green
Green - Yellow

I had to do this as the stock bafang display pinout does not match the KT-LCD3.

Are these correct? Or is there a guide somewhere that I missed on how to create the cable?

Are the e-brakes maybe activated?
It might be worth cutting the Green Cable on the TSDZ2 motor side to eliminate it (i run it this way with no e brakes)

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-LCD-to-TSDZ2
 
casainho said:
- there is absolutely no need to store the configurations on the motor controller, instead, the LCDs as 850C has 16x times more memory (512 kbytes VS 32 kbytes) and so they can store it without any worry

Hi Casainho,
It was not my intention to raise an issue.
In any case i was talking about the few parameters like motor_temperature_min/max, motor_type, battery_max_current etc.. which have an impact on the operation of the engine and that are already managed by the Controller Firmware.
They are now about 50/60 bytes and the controller data memory can handle up to 1024 bytes.
I also thought that it would have been safer for the controller to already have the correct configuration at startup, instead of waiting for the configuration data to be sent from the LCD.
 
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
buba said:
Could you reset everything and see if that helps?

------------------------

Step 1: Go to the Configuration Menu

Step 2: Go to the "Reset to factory defaults" under General Setup

Step 3: Increment the number until the screen is blank/turns off

Step 4: When the screen is blank/off, hold the ONOFF button for a couple of seconds. This is important!

Step 5: Release the ONOFF button

Step 6: Power on...

Hey thanks

Unfortunately nothing seems to help, I did also try flashing the alpha2, nothing.

The motor works fine with marcoq 0.3.5 and the stock display, so the motor does work.

I think that I may have messed up the wiring, I cut the male connector off a bafang 1-to-4 cable and soldered on a female connector, using the following mapping:

Bafang - TSDZ2
Brown - Blue
Orange - Red
Green - Brown
White - Green
Yellow - Yellow
Red - White
Blue - Orange
Black - Black

Used this picture for bafang pinout: https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=77817&d=1541800588

I also put a female connector on the KT-LCD3 with the following mapping:
Wire color - Solder pad
Yellow - Red
Blue - Blue
Red - Black
Black - Green
Green - Yellow

I had to do this as the stock bafang display pinout does not match the KT-LCD3.

Are these correct? Or is there a guide somewhere that I missed on how to create the cable?

Are the e-brakes maybe activated?
It might be worth cutting the Green Cable on the TSDZ2 motor side to eliminate it (i run it this way with no e brakes)

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-LCD-to-TSDZ2

I plugged in some ebrakes, and when activating them the ebrake icon shows up, so I woldn't think so. I did try with the brakes in but still no power.

But in my case I could probably just desolder the white and green connectors, from what I'm reading the brakes activate on high?
 
cnrd said:
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
buba said:
Could you reset everything and see if that helps?

------------------------

Step 1: Go to the Configuration Menu

Step 2: Go to the "Reset to factory defaults" under General Setup

Step 3: Increment the number until the screen is blank/turns off

Step 4: When the screen is blank/off, hold the ONOFF button for a couple of seconds. This is important!

Step 5: Release the ONOFF button

Step 6: Power on...

Hey thanks

Unfortunately nothing seems to help, I did also try flashing the alpha2, nothing.

The motor works fine with marcoq 0.3.5 and the stock display, so the motor does work.

I think that I may have messed up the wiring, I cut the male connector off a bafang 1-to-4 cable and soldered on a female connector, using the following mapping:

Bafang - TSDZ2
Brown - Blue
Orange - Red
Green - Brown
White - Green
Yellow - Yellow
Red - White
Blue - Orange
Black - Black

Used this picture for bafang pinout: https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=77817&d=1541800588

I also put a female connector on the KT-LCD3 with the following mapping:
Wire color - Solder pad
Yellow - Red
Blue - Blue
Red - Black
Black - Green
Green - Yellow

I had to do this as the stock bafang display pinout does not match the KT-LCD3.

Are these correct? Or is there a guide somewhere that I missed on how to create the cable?

Are the e-brakes maybe activated?
It might be worth cutting the Green Cable on the TSDZ2 motor side to eliminate it (i run it this way with no e brakes)

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-LCD-to-TSDZ2

I plugged in some ebakes, and when activating them the ebrake icon shows up, so I woldn't think so. I did try with the brakes in but still no power.


I did have something similar to this to this some time ago when I was switching between Marcos build and 0.18.x at the time.

As a sanity check i went back to stock, confirmed that was working then installed the opensource firmware over the top of that. That seamed to clear things for me. I did however have a backup of the program, data and option sections that my motor came with that i could flash with stlink so I know it was exactly as stock.

You could also try writing all 0's first to clear the flash before uploading the opensource firmware ( mentioned above a few posts back by Buba https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&start=2900#p1485248)
 
mspider65 said:
They are now about 50/60 bytes and the controller data memory can handle up to 1024 bytes.
I also thought that it would have been safer for the controller to already have the correct configuration at startup, instead of waiting for the configuration data to be sent from the LCD.
Seems you are counting with the EEPROM but for manage it, there will be used programing bytes, the ones that are not used yet but Buba did mention to implement.

It is safe to not start the motor until the configuration package arrive from the LCD.
 
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
Hey thanks

Unfortunately nothing seems to help, I did also try flashing the alpha2, nothing.

The motor works fine with marcoq 0.3.5 and the stock display, so the motor does work.

I think that I may have messed up the wiring, I cut the male connector off a bafang 1-to-4 cable and soldered on a female connector, using the following mapping:

Bafang - TSDZ2
Brown - Blue
Orange - Red
Green - Brown
White - Green
Yellow - Yellow
Red - White
Blue - Orange
Black - Black

Used this picture for bafang pinout: https://electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=77817&d=1541800588

I also put a female connector on the KT-LCD3 with the following mapping:
Wire color - Solder pad
Yellow - Red
Blue - Blue
Red - Black
Black - Green
Green - Yellow

I had to do this as the stock bafang display pinout does not match the KT-LCD3.

Are these correct? Or is there a guide somewhere that I missed on how to create the cable?

Are the e-brakes maybe activated?
It might be worth cutting the Green Cable on the TSDZ2 motor side to eliminate it (i run it this way with no e brakes)

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-LCD-to-TSDZ2

I plugged in some ebakes, and when activating them the ebrake icon shows up, so I woldn't think so. I did try with the brakes in but still no power.


I did have something similar to this to this some time ago when I was switching between Marcos build and 0.18.x at the time.

As a sanity check i went back to stock, confirmed that was working then installed the opensource firmware over the top of that. That seamed to clear things for me. I did however have a backup of the program, data and option sections that my motor came with that i could flash with stlink so I know it was exactly as stock.

You could also try writing all 0's first to clear the flash before uploading the opensource firmware ( mentioned above a few posts back by Buba https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&start=2900#p1485248)

Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.
 
cnrd said:
Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.

Yes 'Vin' on the TSDZ2 is the pin that detects the full battery voltage and turns on the motor as a result, Bafang name this 'PL'

You should see full battery voltage on this wire when the screen is switched on.
 
casainho said:
- there is absolutely no need to store the configurations on the motor controller, instead, the LCDs as 850C has 16x times more memory (512 kbytes VS 32 kbytes) and so they can store it without any worry

I don't think so. There are some config-variables that are always the same and you don't need to change them often. Wheel perimeter, motor current limits ect. I think the motor should be runnable without a display after setting these parameters up once.
 
shaddi said:
I think the motor should be runnable without a display after setting these parameters up once.
Technically that would be possible but would also compromise the implementation of future new features as also possible need corrections/maintenance of current features (for the reasons I did explain).

Current project is to run TSDZ2 with feature rich LCDs like 850C and SW102 Bluetooth. On SW102 Bluetooth for instance, the developers seek to send data to Strava.

Having the TSDZ2 running without LCD is another project -- need to have other developers for developing and maintain that project.
 
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.

Yes 'Vin' on the TSDZ2 is the pin that detects the full battery voltage and turns on the motor as a result, Bafang name this 'PL'

You should see full battery voltage on this wire when the screen is switched on.

Hmm what should I try at this point? Redo all the soldering?

One thing I just noticed, I put the throttle on the marcoq firmware, after using the throttle, I could no longer use the pedals to activate the motor.

Anyone have a link to the stock firmware? As I could try flashing that, to reset everything.
 
I have a big problem. When i load controller file i see a long 'address 0xxxxx isi out of range' . I can programming but when start the lcd3 not work all field are light. Why? I traied to fill with zero but nothing change.
 
Hi everyone, so much has changed since my last visit. buba what a work you've done to make this firmware more Advanced than it already was :shock: . I can't beleive that i now have all these functions on this motor that i bought more than 3 years ago. Thank you very much for that.

I am about to try the latest version but the files are .ihx and not .hex files as usual. I tried to open them with ST-Visual programmer, and it seems to work as an .hex file. But i wan't to be sure this is the way to go (Because .ihx is not listed in the dropdown box, have to selec "all files")

Thank you very much for your help.
 
Buba

Im still having a problem getting my head around cadence mode, surely there is more than a cadence input from the way it is behaving.

I'm running on a Nexus 8 speed hub gear and 48v motor, 52 volt battery Max 18 amps and 800 watts set. To get any decent response I need the cadence assist set at 90 and more. Go up a gentle slope near my home at 10mph in 3rd gear it starts off with decent assist and soon settles to about 11 watts assist and then I change gear to 6 or 8 and suddenly I've nearly got 300 watts assist and to maintain 10mph I am ghost pedalling. Going back down the slope everything seems normal in any gear with hardly any assist. Then as I turn into the rutted lane up to my place pedalling very slowly in gear 8 the assist is suddenly 500 watts or more (which I don't want :) ). Is there also a wheel speed and torque input into this mode?
 
andrea_104kg said:
I have a big problem. When i load controller file i see a long 'address 0xxxxx isi out of range' . I can programming but when start the lcd3 not work all field are light. Why? I traied to fill with zero but nothing change.

Have you set the STM8S105x6 on ST Visual Programmer? What version are you trying to load?

If anyone ever gets the "Address our of range..." it will not work as ST Visual Programmer is warning that it could not load the entire hex file on the device. Make sure that you have picked the right device: STM8S105x6.

Sorry for the late reply, you have maybe already sorted it out by now!
 
nbdriver said:
Hi everyone, so much has changed since my last visit. buba what a work you've done to make this firmware more Advanced than it already was :shock: . I can't beleive that i now have all these functions on this motor that i bought more than 3 years ago. Thank you very much for that.

I am about to try the latest version but the files are .ihx and not .hex files as usual. I tried to open them with ST-Visual programmer, and it seems to work as an .hex file. But i wan't to be sure this is the way to go (Because .ihx is not listed in the dropdown box, have to selec "all files")

Thank you very much for your help.

Welcome back and I am excited that you will be testing the 0.20.0! Many improvements over the 0.19.0 and basically more than just a simple update! You really need to try it out to feel the difference. Everything should be improved. And more to come! :wink:

It is okay to use the .ihx. Apologize for not explaining that earlier when I made the 0.20.0 available for testing. Should be packed to .hex but will work fine.

Hope you will like the 0.20.0 Alpha 2!
 
Rafe said:
Buba

Im still having a problem getting my head around cadence mode, surely there is more than a cadence input from the way it is behaving.

I'm running on a Nexus 8 speed hub gear and 48v motor, 52 volt battery Max 18 amps and 800 watts set. To get any decent response I need the cadence assist set at 90 and more. Go up a gentle slope near my home at 10mph in 3rd gear it starts off with decent assist and soon settles to about 11 watts assist and then I change gear to 6 or 8 and suddenly I've nearly got 300 watts assist and to maintain 10mph I am ghost pedalling. Going back down the slope everything seems normal in any gear with hardly any assist. Then as I turn into the rutted lane up to my place pedalling very slowly in gear 8 the assist is suddenly 500 watts or more (which I don't want :) ). Is there also a wheel speed and torque input into this mode?

Hmm... So when you configure an assist level multiplier in Cadence Assist it will actually set the target rotational speed of the motor. If the motor rotates slower it will increase power until the rotational speed increases. If the motor rotates faster it will lower the power. So if you change gears this will upset the ratio and you need to change assist level accordingly. The system does not know that the ratio has changed.

Just thought that this implementation works fine on direct drive motors as the ratio is fixed (hub motor) but is maybe not as optimal where the ratio changes with gear shifts. How does the Bafang compare when shifting gears? Have never tried cadence only assist on a mid drive before. How do you configure the Bafang and how does it react when removing the wheel speed sensor? Does it work the same with and without the wheel speed sensor?

We are only looking at cadence in Cadence Assist but I understand why you were surprised by the difference in assistance!
 
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.

Yes 'Vin' on the TSDZ2 is the pin that detects the full battery voltage and turns on the motor as a result, Bafang name this 'PL'

You should see full battery voltage on this wire when the screen is switched on.

Hey something hit me, should Rx and Tx be swapped?
As in TSDZ2 brow wire to bafang green and TSDZ2 yellow to bafang yellow.
 
casainho said:
shaddi said:
I think the motor should be runnable without a display after setting these parameters up once.
Technically that would be possible but would also compromise the implementation of future new features as also possible need corrections/maintenance of current features (for the reasons I did explain).

Current project is to run TSDZ2 with feature rich LCDs like 850C and SW102 Bluetooth. On SW102 Bluetooth for instance, the developers seek to send data to Strava.

Having the TSDZ2 running without LCD is another project -- need to have other developers for developing and maintain that project.

hm, i still don't get it. The code is already there, why is there a need for another project or somebody to maintain this special scenario?

If i get it right, the eeprom is filled with some default variables if the first byte is not "our key". And these variables are loaded at every bootup. As soon as the display is sending its data, all these variables are overwritten. The function eeprom_write_if_values_changed is still commented out. I think this is just a design flaw. Why do we have to write the actual assist-level to the eeprom?

Thats why i opened the Ticket #30 at github back than... Imho there is still a need to split the variable in two separate ones. One for persistent data that can be written to the eeprom and the second one for "runtime data" like the current assit level, or light-status or stuff like that...

Or did i miss something else here?
 
cnrd said:
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.

Yes 'Vin' on the TSDZ2 is the pin that detects the full battery voltage and turns on the motor as a result, Bafang name this 'PL'

You should see full battery voltage on this wire when the screen is switched on.

Hey something hit me, should Rx and Tx be swapped?
As in TSDZ2 brow wire to bafang green and TSDZ2 yellow to bafang yellow.


You can try that but the fact you said you were seeing the data from the motor sensors. (cadence and torque) would suggest the serial coms are working fine. is that definitely the case? i did have issues with tx and rx wires being wrong on my screen but it would not get past showing all the lcd elements showing.

maybe its posible you have one way serial motor to screen?
 
buba said:
Rafe said:
Buba

Im still having a problem getting my head around cadence mode, surely there is more than a cadence input from the way it is behaving.

I'm running on a Nexus 8 speed hub gear and 48v motor, 52 volt battery Max 18 amps and 800 watts set. To get any decent response I need the cadence assist set at 90 and more. Go up a gentle slope near my home at 10mph in 3rd gear it starts off with decent assist and soon settles to about 11 watts assist and then I change gear to 6 or 8 and suddenly I've nearly got 300 watts assist and to maintain 10mph I am ghost pedalling. Going back down the slope everything seems normal in any gear with hardly any assist. Then as I turn into the rutted lane up to my place pedalling very slowly in gear 8 the assist is suddenly 500 watts or more (which I don't want :) ). Is there also a wheel speed and torque input into this mode?

Hmm... So when you configure an assist level multiplier in Cadence Assist it will actually set the target rotational speed of the motor. If the motor rotates slower it will increase power until the rotational speed increases. If the motor rotates faster it will lower the power. So if you change gears this will upset the ratio and you need to change assist level accordingly. The system does not know that the ratio has changed.

Just thought that this implementation works fine on direct drive motors as the ratio is fixed (hub motor) but is maybe not as optimal where the ratio changes with gear shifts. How does the Bafang compare when shifting gears? Have never tried cadence only assist on a mid drive before. How do you configure the Bafang and how does it react when removing the wheel speed sensor? Does it work the same with and without the wheel speed sensor?

We are only looking at cadence in Cadence Assist but I understand why you were surprised by the difference in assistance!

Hi Buba,

The bafang motor is somewhat different in how it feels to ride. the Assist levels are set to fix the maximum power and set cadence speed to run at, so as you move up the assistance levels you are increasing the cadence in set amounts.

Its nice for cruising but you do tend to use the assist levels with the gears more, change up gears and sometimes you have to drop the assist level to lower the cadence to suite.
If you remove the speed sensor it makes no difference at all to how the motor reacts, I know this for sure at i had to ride over 200KM with no speed sensor the other week after my tyre melted the speed cable sensor wire right through!

changing gear is somewhat vicious! and a gear sensor really helps to calm this down, or using the gentle ebrake method to activate the ebrake when changing gear without pulling the lever enough to actually brake.

all in the bafang rides in a very constant fashion, providing a set amount of power continuously as long as you pedal, but if you want to change cadence you have to increase the assist level or you will be pushing against the motor.

These are my settings in the bafang config tool on my towing bike running a BBS 02 (350W motor running up to 20A so 720W peak but does not feel as powerful at the TSDZ2 at 500W) This is not connected to the bike just looking at the config file offline.

bafang config tool.PNG

you can see how I have changed the cadence speed to increase with the power.
(wow cannot believe the config file on my motor is over two years old!)

bafang config tool 2.PNG

bafang config tool 3.PNG
 
I have a little problem.
In the Odometer Field (Main Screen Setup 7/1) the motor temperature is not displayed. In the Temperature field (Main Screen Setup 10/1) the temperature is displayed. However, I would like to use this field for the 10/2 Battery state of charge in percent. Do others have the same problem or have I set something wrong?
Thank you
 
bruwie said:
I have a little problem.
In the Odometer Field (Main Screen Setup 7/1) the motor temperature is not displayed. In the Temperature field (Main Screen Setup 10/1) the temperature is displayed. However, I would like to use this field for the 10/2 Battery state of charge in percent. Do others have the same problem or have I set something wrong?
Thank you


Actually yes , Not tried this before but on 0.20.0 Alpha 2 I have the same issue. cannot select option 7 to show temperature in Odometer field.
 
buba said:
andrea_104kg said:
I have a big problem. When i load controller file i see a long 'address 0xxxxx isi out of range' . I can programming but when start the lcd3 not work all field are light. Why? I traied to fill with zero but nothing change.

Have you set the STM8S105x6 on ST Visual Programmer? What version are you trying to load?

If anyone ever gets the "Address our of range..." it will not work as ST Visual Programmer is warning that it could not load the entire hex file on the device. Make sure that you have picked the right device: STM8S105x6.

Sorry for the late reply, you have maybe already sorted it out by now!
Thank you! In fact I was wrong and used x4 for flash roms!
now everything works perfectly! I did a little test ride:
Power assist works as before only it is even more progressive and sensitive, very beautiful!
Torque assist is for real cyclists, not for me! It seemed to me more tiring but it seems to me much better than the original engine. I think it's the most real emulation of a normal bicycle!
Cadence mode does not interest me, not because of the lack of respect for your work, but because I have 3 other bikes with hub engines :) and I don't want another one.
Also to work very little on the road I use a little trick: I put street mode at 350w, I use 9 levels (max 5x), when I use level 9 I have the advantage of a very light pedal (5x) but with power limited to 350w. It is sufficient for medium climbs with zero fatigue and great battery saving. It's better than the hub and even better than the Specialized Turbo Levo.
I thought it was impossible to improve the excellent version 19 but you did it!
There is a slight resistance backwards to the ignition which then disappears after a few rides.
Emtb: I don't like it, I think that tsdz2 is already emtb because of its intrinsic characteristics.
However an exceptional job .... thanks!
 
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
perryscope said:
cnrd said:
Just tested walk assist, didn't work, I'm starting to feel like one of my solder spots are not up to snuff.

Can anyone confirm that Vin is the same as PL?

As it feels like the motor isn't actually turning on.

Yes 'Vin' on the TSDZ2 is the pin that detects the full battery voltage and turns on the motor as a result, Bafang name this 'PL'

You should see full battery voltage on this wire when the screen is switched on.

Hey something hit me, should Rx and Tx be swapped?
As in TSDZ2 brow wire to bafang green and TSDZ2 yellow to bafang yellow.


You can try that but the fact you said you were seeing the data from the motor sensors. (cadence and torque) would suggest the serial coms are working fine. is that definitely the case? i did have issues with tx and rx wires being wrong on my screen but it would not get past showing all the lcd elements showing.

maybe its posible you have one way serial motor to screen?

Not sure, I have measured the continuity of every single connection, and everything seem to match the documentation I have.

My guess at this point is that I somehow damaged the KT-LCD3 when I soldered on the connector, I may have shorted some of the pins.

I'll probably try ordering another display, as everything checks out in the cabling.
 
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