My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000
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robwalley1963
10 mW
jeron said:robwalley1963 said:
My AM1000 is 1month old and i have full power on the throttle from a standstill.. we can compare settings from the Bafang software?
garyal1 said:This week the Rohloff is getting installed....I would save the money and go with the stock Shimano package. then once you receive the bike upgrade it to Rohloff!
Keep us posted! my next upgrade is also a Rohloff.
Throttle settings - 11,42,Current,9,By Display's Command,5 (Exactly the same as by working from stop BBS02)
barbarossa
100 W
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robwalley1963 said:
that is really strange. perhaps we have to combine the settings ? mmhh… i added printscreens of my settings for all tabs, which also includes (the almost complete) switchoff of Bafangs "afterburner" and better torque settings. also cutoff voltage is set for 48V battery (controller takes the voltage under load for cutoff, in my case i have more amps than normal so voltage drop is higher than normal, i took 39V=13x3V which should be ok). of course i would be interested in your settings
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barbarossa
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… with these setting the throttle works in all PAS-levels, always full power/current, also from a standstill, except for PAS level "0". older controller v1.3
robwalley1963
10 mW
Ignore my torque settings, these are set to mimic cadence only just like the BBS range, can't do torque assist with my lung condition. Works like a charm, but not on the DPC-18 V3 display
Rest looks similar and certainly nothing to justify the lack of throttle without an active speed sensor. Hardware version is 1.5, maybe its been disabled in the firmware???
I assume the throttle is fed 5v and with throttle off it's variable resistor is set to max and as you slide or rotate, the voltage rises towards 5v, hence the low and high settings for the throttle. I might try this lower than 11, maybe 1 or 2, see if the movement range extends.
Not bothersome just yet, not been stuck in the mud though.
Rest looks similar and certainly nothing to justify the lack of throttle without an active speed sensor. Hardware version is 1.5, maybe its been disabled in the firmware???
I assume the throttle is fed 5v and with throttle off it's variable resistor is set to max and as you slide or rotate, the voltage rises towards 5v, hence the low and high settings for the throttle. I might try this lower than 11, maybe 1 or 2, see if the movement range extends.
Not bothersome just yet, not been stuck in the mud though.
barbarossa
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robwalley1963 said:
yeah, that looks almost equal. so finally lack of throttle form a standstill might be the firmware/controller version.
throttle has of course a safety mechanism : 0V (or some low voltage) or 5V (short circuit, or a little lower) will do nothing, only between defined voltages throttle will start/work. chosen the low voltage too low motor will spin continuously (in theory). but i think 10 might be ok. the highest max voltage is 42 (4.2V) i think. i use a smaller range (a little smaller). I never checked voltage range of my third party throttle but it works like a charme.
Deafcat
100 W
cscscs said:
Be nice to replace both the freewheel and the one way clutch with better parts. Misumi has NSK, NTN and house brand components which all look like drawn cup variety, McMaster also has some expensive options (proper sprags).
Sprags are more expensive to manufacture but obviously perform better compared to drawn cup roller clutches, which use ridges in the ID of the bearing housing to facilitate the torque transmission in one direction. In a sprag clutch, the moving elements themselves perform the torque locking, but they require both the exterior housing, and the inner shaft, to be strong hardened steel with no give... Hence the price hike.
Example part from McMaster to put into perspective, $160 USD for a sprag clutch max rated for 165 ft/lb, 16mm wide with an OD of 62mm.
Deafcat said:
I for one would be willing to spend $160 on a sprag to replace the pedal-crank freewheel; but that would not likely be the only cost. I'm curious about the feasibility - I'm not sure how the ultra freewheel is assembled - I'm guessing the outer element of the freewheel is pressed into the primary gear?? If that assumption is correct, then the questions are: 1) Can the freewheel be pulled out? 2) Is there a suitable sprag available that will fit the ID of the gear and the OD of the pedal crank shaft? And last but not least, a means of locking the sprag to the inner and outer elements would need to be provided
Sinbord1981
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Sinbord1981
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barbarossa
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Sinbord1981 said:Guys I popped the plastic cover off the left-hand-side of my motor to expose the cables and found three unconnected connectors. Any idea what these are? A couple of them (the top two in the pictutre) look like they want to be plugged together. I think these might be the rear speed senor and the other (lower) one could be the front light plug having watched one of the BackCountry motor strip videos on YouTube. If the disconnected one is the rear speed sensor what would be the likely symptoms when riding the bike as it seems pretty much perfect to me anyways.
yes, blue ones are for your front light (6V) - default in case of not ordered with light option: not connected. yellow one could be rear light / battery communication cable / gear sensor - i am not sure, might be one of the 2 plugs i dont use at all, my favorite : battery communication cable. but yellow one is not your speed sensor. without speed sensor you wouldnt see your speed at the dispaly and controller would not deliver any power after a while. in addition display would also return a failure code after a while. speed sensor is "male" coming from the motor and has 3 pins (i hope i correctly remember) :wink:
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Sinbord1981
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barbarossa
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Sinbord1981 said:
Hi Sinbord1981 ! Unfortunately a bad idea. that might be one of the methods to really damage your motor
I highly recommend to separate motor from frame. Then putting it in eg your hobby room and with enough light and calmly you can go on...barbarossa
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Sinbord1981 said:
380g should be enough for more than one greasing. I did not use any solvents except for some alcohol for the gasket & sealing areas at the end. anyways i waited a few hundred km until I knew everything is ok with the motor before I opened it. Warranty is of course lost - or let’s say: to be fair I would never claim for warranty after opening the motor. I highly recommend to separate motor from frame. I used some tape for all unused plugs.
barbarossa said:Deafcat said:
cool tip… i already read a lot about Mobilith SHC 100. i will order it to complete my grease collection :thumb:
yeah, the motor reassembly. first time it took 3-4 hours. i have the additional problem that i also route rear brake line hose through the motor housing, i have an additional cable for my GPS tracker directly connected to the battery cable and a self made connection from the controller cable (5V+/ground/motor off) to the rear brake pressure sensor and my gearsensor incl. Higo plug. the gps tracker itself is mounted at the inner plastic motor cover. the backup GPS-battery 1000mAh lipo (in case of stolen battery, charged by the main battery) is between plastic cover/gps tracker and motor (but gps tracker and backup battery i can mount after mounting the motor). anyways i would say i have a little more cables than normal... a lot of cables. the final trick was to bent all the controller cables and my addtional cables/plug into the space between the last two mounting holes (yellow in the picture) - perhaps the solution was so easy that i did not find it for around 3 hours :lol: . this is the only "large" place/space available even after mounting the motor. with that method it was smooth like butter. last reassembly took 15 minutes, GPS tracker/plastic cover included.
Nice,
I am also about to install the GPS tracker, I still didn't figure out the placement. Do you think you could share some more pictures? Does the GPS has enough signal?
Thank you in advance
Sinbord1981
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Deafcat
100 W
Mine came with a 44T steel chainring, I swapped to a 50T Wolftooth narrow-wide (7075AL). Excellent so far... My stock chain also didn't have a very long life (1500km I tossed it at 0.75 wear), SRAM XX1 on currently, and Connex 11SX on deck for next swap. Box 11-46T casette. Currently at 3000km and no detectable wear by any measurement.
For the clean and regrease, I removed most of the old grease with scrapers and picks, then solvent where decent to use it, brass wire brush, methanol cleanup, then greased with SHC100 but I didn't use enough the first time... Opened it back up to pump it nice and full of it. I think you can (and should) be very generous with this grease since it flows so well.
For the clean and regrease, I removed most of the old grease with scrapers and picks, then solvent where decent to use it, brass wire brush, methanol cleanup, then greased with SHC100 but I didn't use enough the first time... Opened it back up to pump it nice and full of it. I think you can (and should) be very generous with this grease since it flows so well.
Sinbord1981
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robwalley1963
10 mW
Deafcat said:
I have a Frey HT1000 and estimated clearance for a 50t is <1mm from the frame. Is it close on the AM1000 or is the chainstay very different on these models?
Deafcat
100 W
btslo said:
Yep it's just the right consistency. the 220 would be too thick I suspect.
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