Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)

This is an inexpensive controller that allows you to accelerate my bike at a speed of 140 kilometers per hour. If I give more speed, the BMS shuts off the battery, and everything shuts down because of it.
 
Seems as if QSmotor (and others) are deliberately trying to hide their photos from search engines like Google and Bing. With a little sleuthing I post herein some photos of the AE96600 controller that may (or may not) be hidden from you. Copy them while you can. Enjoy:

HTB1atnFhIj_B1NjSZFHq6yDWpXaA.1280.jpg

HTB18IjWwhSYBuNjSspjq6x73VXae.jpg

HTB1Ad6Nwh1YBuNjy1zcq6zNcXXaT.jpg

HTB1moFPhL6TBKNjSZJiq6zKVFXar.jpg

HTB16PPowf5TBuNjSspcq6znGFXax.jpg

HTB1aQmshSMmBKNjSZTEq6ysKpXaK.jpg

HTB1B2LBboD.BuNjt_ioq6AKEFXap.1280.jpg
 
the docs are available in a package when you buy the controller - or at a bunch of alibaba or aliexpress sites. Might be good to have them here also but i think this thread was ready to die.

I am convinced that this controller is not worth to invest in (for now) since a complete manual and stable program is still missing after a lot of effort. different functions of the controller is blocked for different users.
flux weakening, (which looks quite advanced) doesn't work on my controller.

Maybe time will solve these, or more requests to QS or ADVpower.

edit:if you're happy to get it preprogrammed and want a huge brick then it might be acceptable.
 
So I'm having some doubts/questions about the public APT AE96600 wiring diagram.

The APT AE96600 wiring diagram clearly shows "Isolated DC-DC". But does that mean that this controller would not work with a non-isolated DC-DC converter (i.e. one with a common ground)?? Or is that just a preference?

For those who have actually installed this (massive/heavy) controller, what setup did you use for your DC-DC converter? Isolated? Non-isolated?

Michael
 
Turns out there are two versions of the APT AE96600 controller: One for "EVs" and another for "Motorcycle/Scooter". Depending on which model you order, the wiring is slightly different. As such, I've condensed the information (as much as I can ascertain) for what the Motorcycle/Scooter wiring should be. Enjoy.

APT AE96600 documentation.1280.jpg
 
I am convinced that this controller is not worth to invest in (for now) since:
-complete manual and stable program is still missing after a lot of effort.
-different functions of the controller is blocked for different users.
-flux weakening, (which looks quite advanced) doesn't work on my controller.
-max DC current output is low for the size.

Maybe time will solve these, or more requests to QS or ADVpower for improvements.

edit:if you're happy to get it preprogrammed and want a huge brick then it might be acceptable but i think there are better options out there.
 
larsb said:
edit:if you want a huge brick then it might be acceptable but i think there are better options out there.
Click to expand...

Edit: if you have an eBike and expect such a huge brick (and I mean huge -- the damn thing weighs 16.4lbs/7.4kilos) to somehow magically fit on your eBike, then I want what you are smoking! :p

M
 
For those of you considering adding either a Cycle Analyst or PowerVelocity Bluetooth module to the mix, here is the wiring you'll want for your APT AE96600 controller. Note: this is what I am currently using on my eZuma scooter/motorcycle and the PV iPhone app works like a charm.

Note that you cannot simply "tap" into the motor temp circuit being used by the AE96600 controller -- the PV BT module and it will "fight" over it and the temperature reading will read incorrectly, causing lots of headaches.

YMMV

APT AE96600 documentation with PV BT.v2.1280.jpg
 
Live and learn. There are some subtle wiring details that you must get right if you don't want unwanted behavior when using an AE96000 controller (as compared to a few other controllers that I have some experience with). The key thing I learned the hard way is that all the functions highlighted in light blue below must ground not to common ground but only to the A1/Throttle/5V- ground. My previous bike wiring worked fine with other controllers but the APT is a bit more finicky in that regard (I have a hunch that the 5V circuit is isolated, not sharing common ground like other controllers). The upshot is that I fried my PowerVelocity Bluetooth module by using common ground for a few of the functions. Just FYI. YMMV.

APT AE96600 documentation with PV BT.v2.1500.jpg
 
Well leave it to @ElectricGod to provide some insight that might very well "solve" my problem. If I were to add a dedicated 5V buck converter that shared the common ground, then I wouldn't need to use the 5V coming out of the controller. This (in theory) should isolate any 5V "chatter" that I am seeing in my 12V brake circuit. Trouble is, I don't have a spare PowerVelocity BT module to validate my hypothesis. So for now, this diagram is merely hypothetical. YMMV.

APT AE96600 documentation with PV BT.v3.1500.jpg
 
Well, the hypothesis was flawed from the get-go. As others on ES had suggested elsewhere, it was a bad brake switch that was passing 5V when inactive. Replacing the switch solved the problem. But in the meantime, I have a fried PowerVelocity bluetooth module which no longer works. And no word from PV as to whether or not they are still in business or not. At this point, I'm definitely considering adding a Cycle Analyst to the mix as with a CA V3 is much less flakiness, more support, and a more mature/extensible product line -- even though the interface is so 1980s.

Michael
 
Hello everyone, where can I get the EV Drive Manager software to be able to re-program the motor controller? Thank you
 
There is some risk attached to using different controller hardware and program revisions. I managed to brick my controller when testing different programs.

So:
1) ask seller of your controller for the matching program
2) ask QS motor (www.cnqsmotor.com) for program
3) final and last as this might be an outdated copy: here is program, version 10.1
 

Attachments

  • EV DriveManager V2.0.0.10.1.exe.zip
    179 KB · Views: 1,052
:D
QSV3 isn’t just one motor. Didn’t you have time to write a full question? If it’s a QS273 80h bike going 5000m uphill in the alps with two passengers then yes, it will get hot

-it’s got 36fets
-it’s super heavy and big (large thermal mass and cooling surface)
-i don’t see many controllers here that would get less hot
 
Ok thanks just wanted to know that it could handle more then 100v without problems, I’m hearing talk on the forums that a lot of controllers get hot with a battery that’s over 20s I know my mqcon controller does. Also why is their a don’t buy on the blog update title? When most of the reports are positive.
 
If you read the thread you’ll know.

In short words:
-it’s huge and power output does not match the size
-Program is not stable, you can set parameters multiple times before they stick.
-Different functions are disabled in different controllers - you don’t know what you get when you buy one.
-It can be bricked just by using program

Pros:
If you run 120V and dont care about programming, field weakening and huge size and want the lowest possible price then this might be for you.
 
i 'll buy motor+ gearbox+clutch for a trial GasGas conversion

IMG_3377_67ca54fc-2807-42d3-81a1-fea85dd182c4_110x110@2x.jpg


https://electric-conversion-kits.my.../frontpage/products/4kw-motor-with-controller

controller is APT 72400 (48-72V 400A)
IMG_3385_967e08d2-29f6-41fe-b6b7-ce94518d8b57_110x110@2x.jpg

Does this program is compatible with it ?

Seller does not provide software
 
Hey. Anyone willing to share recent software for programming the controller? I have 2.0.0.10.1 but it's impossible to set more than 2550 rpms in mode 4, even though 20k is the limit according to the manual. If boost mode (5) is used, it spins faster but cuts out the throttle when hitting about 3k rpms. I try to make it work with qs 138 70h middrive motor. QS says no go, but we'll see (-; BTW I contacted ADVpower asking for the software... but "I'm very sorry to tell you that our products are used for mass vehicle customers, not for individual DIY, so we don't have special personnel to support DIYer." So, yeah, no go.

Larsb, were you able to make it work smoothly (comparing to votol), despite the lack of FW and 3speed functionality?
 
Yes, no problems with basic functionality, full RPM and mode setting also worked, no difference between modes. (10.1 version)

Somehow i suspect that the hall sensor holder that was damaged for you ended up in the wrong position when it was damaged. Then your sensors are misplaced.

I’ve also asked ADV for program without success. You might just ask QS also for latest version
 
larsb said:
Yes, no problems with basic functionality and mode setting also worked.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Over 2550rpms in mode 4 or boost only?

Actually I could power it with 30s/126v and use without fw, but considering my bad luck with votol (20s), will need to think twice.
 
larsb said:
Somehow i suspect that the hall sensor holder that was damaged for you ended up in the wrong position when it was damaged. Then your sensors are misplaced.
Click to expand...

Been thinking about it... I took pictures before replacing it + compared it with one of your flooded motor photos if I remember correctly. Tried to play with the mounting screws also. Will look into it again though. You may be right.
 
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