New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

AlessandroEmm said:
Hey there

I know many asked this in the past but I haven't found any recent comment of user who use the oss firmware:
How are these holding up? I plan on converting a cargobike and most people suggest to use the bbs0x since they are supposedly holding up better with higher torque, well heat requirements. Can anyone chime in and explain how well a limited (with the firmware) motor holds up?

Thanks a lot!
Alessandro
Click to expand...
The waterproof cover on the TSDZ motor basically insulates it. There are some trial and error cooling mods being tried with some success. But this motor seems to be designed for 350W pedal assist. This is a typical European street legal spec. On a cargo bike you will probably be using full power much of the time and the BBSxx series handles this much better. I would go with a BBSHD. They're rock solid at 1500W. The first time you have to repair something else you will spend the difference, and maybe more than once. If you look through this thread you will see many posts on repairing the TSDZ2 on normal bikes. A cargo bike will compound the problem. I own both a BBSHD, and a TSDZ2. The BBSHD is also silent.
 
My friends TSDZ2 stopped working. Opened it up. Guessing the motor is burned to a crisp. I think the cracks in the yellow and green wire insulation may be due to heat where they touch the motor case?

IMG_3682.jpg
 
wpenner said:
My friends TSDZ2 stopped working. Opened it up. Guessing the motor is burned to a crisp. I think the cracks in the yellow and green wire insulation may be due to heat where they touch the motor case?

IMG_3682.jpg
Click to expand...
Next time, install the temperature sensor.
 
IDK much about these Shimano E 5000 E bike square taper cranks. But for $13.99 a set in 3 lengths I intend to find out. Maybe some of the European riders are familiar with them?
https://blueskycycling.com/collections/cranks-bolts/products/shimano-steps-fc-e5000-crank-arm-set
 
Retrorockit said:
IDK much about these Shimano E 5000 E bike square taper cranks. But for $13.99 a set in 3 lengths I intend to find out. Maybe some of the European riders are familiar with them?
https://blueskycycling.com/collections/cranks-bolts/products/shimano-steps-fc-e5000-crank-arm-set
Click to expand...

What do you want to know? I have installed them on two ebikes
 
the tapered squaed crankset interface need grease?
Mine make crack noise (without grease)

Cheers
 
mctubster said:
Retrorockit said:
IDK much about these Shimano E 5000 E bike square taper cranks. But for $13.99 a set in 3 lengths I intend to find out. Maybe some of the European riders are familiar with them?
https://blueskycycling.com/collections/cranks-bolts/products/shimano-steps-fc-e5000-crank-arm-set
Click to expand...

What do you want to know? I have installed them on two ebikes
Click to expand...

Wondering how they might differ in offet, or "Q line" from the other Shimano E bike FC E6000 cranks. I would be installing them on a TSDZ2, and a BBSHD. Basically wondering if they're interchangeable.
 
hego said:
the tapered squaed crankset interface need grease?
Mine make crack noise (without grease)

Cheers
Click to expand...

They should be lightly greased. When water gets into aluminum the aluminum swells up, and the Al oxide is extremely hard. This can make removal almost impossible, and the cranks may not be reusable. Whether this is causing noises IDK.
 
I think the tsdz2 use a JIS squared interface (Japan). My asiatic crank arms come from Shimano - fc-E6000- , I supose
also JIS standard.

There is an other similary stardard: The ISO from Europe. Normal for EU brands like Campagnolo and so.I dont use it.

My Shimno´s crank arms ever make annoying noise, like: crick, crack, crick,...

Need only a few grease?

Cheers
 
My new setup has developed a strange problem displaying current speed. My setup is a new TSDZ2 36v, KTLCD3, 48v batter (54.6v fully charged), V .019 of the OSS.

The problem is that it does not register current speed. Instead after a long delay the speed is shown as a number up to around 4mph. Then it sticks and goes down by 0.1 mph randomly. It’s not the speed sensor or magnet as I’ve tried another . And I can disconnect the speed sensor and the the stick speed is still displayed. The strange thing is the trip distance for today shows the correct distance (2.5miles). It was fine yesterday.

Today I enabled “enable and set state of charge function” Menu 1 - 5. And also enabled street mode. I’ve put them back to the previous versions but I still have this issue,

Can anyone help ?
 
Bartman said:
My new setup has developed a strange problem displaying current speed. My setup is a new TSDZ2 36v, KTLCD3, 48v batter (54.6v fully charged), V .019 of the OSS.

The problem is that it does not register current speed. Instead after a long delay the speed is shown as a number up to around 4mph. Then it sticks and goes down by 0.1 mph randomly. It’s not the speed sensor or magnet as I’ve tried another . And I can disconnect the speed sensor and the the stick speed is still displayed. The strange thing is the trip distance for today shows the correct distance (2.5miles). It was fine yesterday.

Today I enabled “enable and set state of charge function” Menu 1 - 5. And also enabled street mode. I’ve put them back to the previous versions but I still have this issue,

Can anyone help ?
Click to expand...


Ok I’ve fixed it. I reset to factory defaults and it’s working again. Could this be a bug in the firmware ?
 
wpenner said:
My friends TSDZ2 stopped working. Opened it up. Guessing the motor is burned to a crisp. I think the cracks in the yellow and green wire insulation may be due to heat where they touch the motor case?

IMG_3682.jpg
Click to expand...

Heat's been a real issue with this motor. Has anyone come up with a solution? My spouse was using it for commuting and it's always like nearly too hot to touch. He's now switched to a hub motor as the TSDZ2 is just not meant, or capable, of constant power type riding.

Can someone suggest a good seperate temperature sensor with its own LCD? I don't want to hook up mine to the KT-LCD3 as I really need the throttle on my recumbent to get started on hills.

Issue: I noticed since I switched to the aftermarket firmware the power output seems really low. Like I struggle to get above 500 watts and that's in a big gear. Anyone know what the problem could be? I have a 48v battery, so theoretically shouldn't I be able to do at least 750 watts? My spouse's 48v battery and DD motor completely blows away my current setup. I'm assuming I've screwed up some setting in the firmware.
 
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/
 
EschoffiereMich said:
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/
Click to expand...
Hi I am being using on my ebikes, for instance, I will soon left for beach me and my girlfriend, using 850C on both ebikes, so as you can understand, I would not use it if I felt any risk of let us with motor working.

I must say that is a very strange issue, I can't imagine what that happens unless is something with hardware...
 
Aquakitty said:
wpenner said:
My friends TSDZ2 stopped working. Opened it up. Guessing the motor is burned to a crisp. I think the cracks in the yellow and green wire insulation may be due to heat where they touch the motor case?

IMG_3682.jpg
Click to expand...

Heat's been a real issue with this motor. Has anyone come up with a solution? My spouse was using it for commuting and it's always like nearly too hot to touch. He's now switched to a hub motor as the TSDZ2 is just not meant, or capable, of constant power type riding.

Can someone suggest a good seperate temperature sensor with its own LCD? I don't want to hook up mine to the KT-LCD3 as I really need the throttle on my recumbent to get started on hills.

Issue: I noticed since I switched to the aftermarket firmware the power output seems really low. Like I struggle to get above 500 watts and that's in a big gear. Anyone know what the problem could be? I have a 48v battery, so theoretically shouldn't I be able to do at least 750 watts? My spouse's 48v battery and DD motor completely blows away my current setup. I'm assuming I've screwed up some setting in the firmware.
Click to expand...
Seems This info should be added to wiki: TSDZ2 can safely handle 8 or 10 amps continuous only. 18 amps can be used for short time but that should be in the case of using the temperature sensor protection on the firmware.
 
Hi, I need advice I want to reprogram the engine and I can't do it at 0.19.0 hex. Please calculate.Displei KT LCD3.
 

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Bartman said:
My new setup has developed a strange problem displaying current speed. My setup is a new TSDZ2 36v, KTLCD3, 48v batter (54.6v fully charged), V .019 of the OSS.

The problem is that it does not register current speed. Instead after a long delay the speed is shown as a number up to around 4mph. Then it sticks and goes down by 0.1 mph randomly. It’s not the speed sensor or magnet as I’ve tried another . And I can disconnect the speed sensor and the the stick speed is still displayed. The strange thing is the trip distance for today shows the correct distance (2.5miles). It was fine yesterday.

Today I enabled “enable and set state of charge function” Menu 1 - 5. And also enabled street mode. I’ve put them back to the previous versions but I still have this issue,

Can anyone help ?
Click to expand...
The large part of the magnet sensor is just the mounting bolt cover, the magnet needs to pass the smaller part of it to work. I hope this helps.
 
ri53hu said:
Hi, I need advice I want to reprogram the engine and I can't do it at 0.19.0 hex. Please calculate.Displei KT LCD3.
Click to expand...

Did you select stm8s105x6? And removed write protection from lcd
 
casainho said:
Aquakitty said:
wpenner said:
My friends TSDZ2 stopped working. Opened it up. Guessing the motor is burned to a crisp. I think the cracks in the yellow and green wire insulation may be due to heat where they touch the motor case?

IMG_3682.jpg
Click to expand...

Heat's been a real issue with this motor. Has anyone come up with a solution? My spouse was using it for commuting and it's always like nearly too hot to touch. He's now switched to a hub motor as the TSDZ2 is just not meant, or capable, of constant power type riding.

Can someone suggest a good seperate temperature sensor with its own LCD? I don't want to hook up mine to the KT-LCD3 as I really need the throttle on my recumbent to get started on hills.

Issue: I noticed since I switched to the aftermarket firmware the power output seems really low. Like I struggle to get above 500 watts and that's in a big gear. Anyone know what the problem could be? I have a 48v battery, so theoretically shouldn't I be able to do at least 750 watts? My spouse's 48v battery and DD motor completely blows away my current setup. I'm assuming I've screwed up some setting in the firmware.
Click to expand...
Seems This info should be added to wiki: TSDZ2 can safely handle 8 or 10 amps continuous only. 18 amps can be used for short time but that should be in the case of using the temperature sensor protection on the firmware.
Click to expand...

He doesn't have the firmware on his bike with the heating issue. Just stock 48v with 48v battery. I haven't had any issues with my motor with the firmware upgrade except it seems not to give much power, but maybe that's just how it is.
 
I wrote this notes on wiki page: How to install the Flexible OpenSource firmware , to help the expectations of the users

NOTES:
- Motor configurations: TSDZ2 motor configurations found on online shops (36V, 48V, 52V, whichever power in watts, with throttle or without) the motor controller is just the same. The only relevant difference is brushless motor inside, that there are only 2 different: 36V and 48V motor (52V systems use the 48V motor).
- Motor max power without damage by heating: the motor can handle only about 8 or 10 amps continuously (10 amps with a 52V battery is 520 watts) otherwise it will heat up fast and damage permanently the motor. Peaks of 18 amps can be used, like at startup or for short time but it is advised to install the motor temperature sensor so the firmware will be able to protect the motor, by reducing the motor current as soon the starts heating after a defined threshold.
 
Hi all, I was trying to install a DIY light and it drew too much current. I think i damaged some transistor or switching hardware on the controller which controls the accessory lighting. Basically there's a tiny bit of current always present (verified by plugging in a light) and turning on/off the light doesn't do anything to change the current. I bought a converter that can be spliced into the battery wires and would give me 5v which is good enough for lights. However I'm wondering if there's a part in the controller that i can replace to get it to work again.. to anyone familiar with controller hardware does this sound right?
 
Finally I finished the wiki update on How to install the Flexible OpenSource firmware: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware

and now the recommended displays are 850C and SW102:

Pictures of 850C color LCD main screen and configurations screen:
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-wheel_speed-66.jpg
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-configurations-66.jpg


Pictures of SW102 Bluetooth display main screen and configurations screen:
SW102-01.jpg
SW102-02.jpg
 
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