New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

casainho said:
Finally I finished the wiki update on How to install the Flexible OpenSource firmware: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware

and now the recommended displays are 850C and SW102:

Pictures of 850C color LCD main screen and configurations screen:
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-wheel_speed-66.jpg
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-configurations-66.jpg


Pictures of SW102 Bluetooth display main screen and configurations screen:
SW102-01.jpg
SW102-02.jpg

Thanks casainho. Will look into replacing the lcd3 with one of these displays. Could never fully get use to the menu on that thing.

edit: Do you have a recommendation between 850C and sw102? i like the small form factor on the sw102 but dont want to lose out on any features..
 
ezrider1199 said:
casainho said:
Finally I finished the wiki update on How to install the Flexible OpenSource firmware: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware

and now the recommended displays are 850C and SW102:

Pictures of 850C color LCD main screen and configurations screen:
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-wheel_speed-66.jpg
Bafang_850C_color_LCD_TSDZ2-configurations-66.jpg


Pictures of SW102 Bluetooth display main screen and configurations screen:
SW102-01.jpg
SW102-02.jpg

Thanks casainho. Will look into replacing the lcd3 with one of these displays. Could never fully get use to the menu on that thing.

edit: Do you have a recommendation between 850C and sw102? i like the small form factor on the sw102 but dont want to lose out on any features..
I hope to find time to make a comparison table as they are really different. For instance, 850C has clock and USB charger. Also 850C is very easy to flash the firmware while SW102 is way harder than 850C and KT-LCD3.
 
TI LM35? At digikey there are 2 different ML35's and I can't determine which one(s) is/are the correct one for the motor temp sensor.

The part #'s are

DigiKey# 296-43342-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/LFT1 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-LFT1/296-35151-1-ND/3640792
LM35DZ/NOPB-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/NOPB https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-NOPB/LM35DZ-NOPB-ND/32489


I am also thinking of getting this thermal putty (12w/mk) TG-PP10-50G
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/t-global-technology/TG-PP10-50G/1168-2164-ND/6204863

My idea is to make a dam to seal off the back of the motor, and then apply a piece of Teflon or blue (outdoor tape), or mold release to the motor so the sealant will not stick to it, then put mold release on the inside of the outer case and inject the putty to fill the cavity between the outer case and motor.

What do you think about this idea??

Thanks, Rick
 
EschoffiereMich said:
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/

I've experienced similar problems. I rode 60 miles with no issues on a flashed tsdz2 motor and 850c display, then over the next 35 miles I've had numerous power loss to both motor and display. These were not fast rides by any means (low level power assist) so I don't believe they are heat related. I also thought it was a poor connection and rewired using XT90 connectors and solder seal connectors. It did not help. I have not yet performed the newest flash, but will do so soon and retest.
 
budda919 said:
EschoffiereMich said:
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/

I've experienced similar problems. I rode 60 miles with no issues on a flashed tsdz2 motor and 850c display, then over the next 35 miles I've had numerous power loss to both motor and display. These were not fast rides by any means (low level power assist) so I don't believe they are heat related. I also thought it was a poor connection and rewired using XT90 connectors and solder seal connectors. It did not help. I have not yet performed the newest flash, but will do so soon and retest.
Seems I have being luck then :)

I would then say that 850C is for some reason failing. Do you guys have something connected on the USB charger??
 
RicMcK said:
TI LM35? At digikey there are 2 different ML35's and I can't determine which one(s) is/are the correct one for the motor temp sensor.

The part #'s are

DigiKey# 296-43342-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/LFT1 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-LFT1/296-35151-1-ND/3640792
LM35DZ/NOPB-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/NOPB https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-NOPB/LM35DZ-NOPB-ND/32489


I am also thinking of getting this thermal putty (12w/mk) TG-PP10-50G
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/t-global-technology/TG-PP10-50G/1168-2164-ND/6204863

My idea is to make a dam to seal off the back of the motor, and then apply a piece of Teflon or blue (outdoor tape), or mold release to the motor so the sealant will not stick to it, then put mold release on the inside of the outer case and inject the putty to fill the cavity between the outer case and motor.

What do you think about this idea??

Thanks, Rick


you got me thinking:
- place outer case on the floor with the inside facing up
- put mold release on the inside of the outer case
- fill the inside of the outer case with a sufficient amount of putty
- cover motor with saran wrap and place it back on the outer case

i expect saran wrap to be a good material to use because it is a single piece that will cover the motor fully, very thin and malleable

edit: i would also heat the outer case with a heat gun to aid coverage of the putty

edit: this heatsink plaster stuff can be used maybe. its common on amazon and ali, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006768192.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.57f85444XuRady&algo_pvid=fab16d53-90e6-4f2a-8c8a-9fc9c6385222&algo_expid=fab16d53-90e6-4f2a-8c8a-9fc9c6385222-2&btsid=6aa93dfc-0b2f-4dc9-8b90-46ab31ab4f4b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_60
 
casainho said:
budda919 said:
EschoffiereMich said:
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/

I've experienced similar problems. I rode 60 miles with no issues on a flashed tsdz2 motor and 850c display, then over the next 35 miles I've had numerous power loss to both motor and display. These were not fast rides by any means (low level power assist) so I don't believe they are heat related. I also thought it was a poor connection and rewired using XT90 connectors and solder seal connectors. It did not help. I have not yet performed the newest flash, but will do so soon and retest.
Seems I have being luck then :)

I would then say that 850C is for some reason failing. Do you guys have something connected on the USB charger??

Nothing plugged into the USB. I'm still using 0.2.0. Loss of power has occurred both while biking, and while sitting still. Battery is well charged and the current voltage shows as such in the menu.
 
budda919 said:
casainho said:
budda919 said:
EschoffiereMich said:
I have a problem with my TSDZ setup since flashing that makes me fall into despair. I've flashed my motor and the befang 850c display and was happy as everything went pretty well and easy. After a ride of about 30minutes suddenly the display went dark and the motor shut off. I suspected a bad solder joint but after checking everything tediouly I came to the conclusion that it must be a problem with the Display. So I reflashed the newest Firmware onto it and suddenly everything was back in working order. But then again: After a ride of about 20minutes the display went black and the motor shut down and no way to start it up again. At this point I am really wondering if this is a bug in the Firmware or if there is some kind of issue with my setup? I was noticing that while flashing my motor firware that the data tab had some values written in the first row, somewhere in this thread I read that this could be causing problems. I hope someone has some advice for my problem :/

I've experienced similar problems. I rode 60 miles with no issues on a flashed tsdz2 motor and 850c display, then over the next 35 miles I've had numerous power loss to both motor and display. These were not fast rides by any means (low level power assist) so I don't believe they are heat related. I also thought it was a poor connection and rewired using XT90 connectors and solder seal connectors. It did not help. I have not yet performed the newest flash, but will do so soon and retest.
Seems I have being luck then :)

I would then say that 850C is for some reason failing. Do you guys have something connected on the USB charger??

Nothing plugged into the USB. I'm still using 0.2.0. Loss of power has occurred both while biking, and while sitting still. Battery is well charged and the current voltage shows as such in the menu.

are the power ratings of the 850c similar to the LCD3 and compatible with the motor controller?
 
You are flashing motor controller firmware V0.19.0, right?

Power off of display and motor controller is almost for sure related only of display or your battery BMS.

After you turn on, after the fails, is the clock running correclty time?
 
casainho said:
You are flashing motor controller firmware V0.19.0, right?

Power off of display and motor controller is almost for sure related only of display or your battery BMS.

After you turn on, after the fails, is the clock running correclty time?

The kit was purchased flashed from eco-ebike. I can only assume that the flashed mc firmware is v 19. After the fail, the display and be turned back on and the clock is correct.
 
Finally, I got the Luna Cycle eccentric adapter kit and put my motor in. Was real easy.

When it came time to install the crank and pedal, WTF, they don't fit. I didn't have this problem with the Bafang BBS.

So it's back to the bicycle shop for a new set of pedals that fits the TSDZ2 crank.
 
ri53hu said:
Hi, I need advice I want to reprogram the engine and I can't do it at 0.19.0 hex. Please calculate.Displei KT LCD3.

You have the data memory tab selected, not program memory? You don't flash anything to data memory
 
nukezero said:
Finally, I got the Luna Cycle eccentric adapter kit and put my motor in. Was real easy.

When it came time to install the crank and pedal, WTF, they don't fit. I didn't have this problem with the Bafang BBS.

So it's back to the bicycle shop for a new set of pedals that fits the TSDZ2 crank.

Do you mean the pedals don't fit the crank arms supplied with the TDSZ2? As far as I know there is only one standard thread for pedals to crank arms. Are you sure you didn't have the crank arms on the wrong side hence reversed threads?
 
Just installed the TSDZ2 36V coaster brake edition on my single speed cruiser bike. I have no throttle.

Couple of major issues: (I was operating mostly in turbo mode)

1) This happened one time but when I was pedaling, all of a sudden, the motor took over and overpowered me. My foot fell off the pedals and the motor kept running! I nearly crashed into the wall! Because i have no hand brakes, I had to try to get my foot back on the pedal and stop the motor.

Very scary! So WTF happened?!?

2) The motor at times was surging. Like it was intermittently engaging and disengaging as I was pedaling. Felt like something is broken. What's going on? (I was in turbo mode)

3) The speed limit setting in the VLCD5 is set to 25 (on). But I could not go more than 15mph. I changed the VLCD5 to empiracal from metric. All motor assists completely stops when I hit 15MPH.

4) There were many times where I got E06 error code. I realized that sometimes it only goes away if I restart it a few times. Also, I need to fully stop pedaling first when turning on the display. Is the E06 error code normal?
 
Currently there are 2 shops selling TSDZ2 and 850C display with our OpenSource firmware: https://www.electrifybike.com and www.eco-ebike.com.

For new users that may prefer a turn key solution, I think www.eco-ebike.com option for TSDZ2 with our OpenSource firmware needs advertisement as it is new and provides very good value for users: TSDZ2 and 850C display with our OpenSource firmware (including the update box for 850C), motor temperature sensors, magnetic brakes, etc.

https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/tsdz2-w-850c-torque-sensing-pedal-assist-with-throttle-and-e-brakes-36v-48v-52v-10-18a-250-750w





 
budda919 said:
casainho said:
You are flashing motor controller firmware V0.19.0, right?

Power off of display and motor controller is almost for sure related only of display or your battery BMS.

After you turn on, after the fails, is the clock running correclty time?

The kit was purchased flashed from eco-ebike. I can only assume that the flashed mc firmware is v 19. After the fail, the display and be turned back on and the clock is correct.
I am sorry but I don't have this issue and I can't understand why it happens. Currently we are developing a new firmware version that will have deep changes and is developed in conjunction with other very experienced developers so I hope this issue will be solved on next version (that we don't have yet a plan date for release).
 
Hello all,

I've been enjoying my TSDZ2 daily on my classic 90s steel 26" MTB for more than a year now, for daily commuting. It's a great motor. But a problem has slowly arised and now it's becoming frustrating. I hope somebody cand point what the origin could be. It's the 2018 350W 36V model with xh18 controller and no brake sensors. I use it with a 36V 20Ah battery.

wD1FqTs.jpg


The odometer marks 2900km but it started failing perhaps on the 2000s: sometimes, when riding a slope and I shift to a higher gear, or start pedaling (both from stop or in movement with energy), the motor instantly ramps up directly to full speed (high noise), in fact it can't rotate any faster and offers resistance to pedaling. If I stop pedaling until the motor stops rotating, and start pedaling again but more genty or in a lower gear it works ok again. Also switching to no assist then to assist and starting pedaling gently fixes it. At the beginning (months after starting using it) it seldom happened, but gradually it has started to happen more frequently, to the point that now changing gears is a lottery, specially when going uphill, very frustrating.

Sometimes it fixes itself and I can switch gears for 5-10 mins without problem, then it happens again. Others I must swtich gears back and forth several times and pedal very lightly until it works again. Once in correct rotating speed it works ok, but lately even the vibration of going over a pothole (I have no suspension) can also switch to the high whirling speed problem.

My first though was perhaps the torque is being measured incorrectly, but the fact it works once in a stable cadence doesn't make sense. It's like it measures too high torque just moment I apply a big difference on force on the pedal, each day less big.

My other though is mechanical wear: perhaps it needs a re-grease, or the blue gear is worn out, so there is high internal resistance and the motor measures too much resistance when starting to rotate and applies too much power, it only resets the "rpm range" when stopping and starting rotating again with no so much instant resistance to overcome. This could match why it has worked so well for months and has started failing gradually. But I can pedal with the motor off and I don't sense an increase on resistance or noises.

Things I've tried:
- Moving the speed sensor and magnet: when misplaced the motor simply didn't help. My speed readout on the controller is right while it fails. I don't think it's causing the problem.
- Noises: it does the same noise than always (it's pretty quiet) and there're no cracks or jumps when switching gears.
- Derraileur, casette, chain, all were recently changed and are greased and move without friction.
- Battery: problem happens with high or low voltage, no difference.

Any help or suggestion will be very appreciated as I'm not sure what to do, and wouldn't want to open the motor for no reason. I already have a blue gear I bought just in case.
 
casainho said:
Currently there are 2 shops selling TSDZ2 and 850C display with our OpenSource firmware: https://www.electrifybike.com and www.eco-ebike.com.

For new users that may prefer a turn key solution, I think www.eco-ebike.com option for TSDZ2 with our OpenSource firmware needs advertisement as it is new and provides very good value for users: TSDZ2 and 850C display with our OpenSource firmware (including the update box for 850C), motor temperature sensors, magnetic brakes, etc.

https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/tsdz2-w-850c-torque-sensing-pedal-assist-with-throttle-and-e-brakes-36v-48v-52v-10-18a-250-750w






Is that update box for 850C display sold separately? I couldn't find it on their website.
 
Thank you all for your replyies, I´m glad that I am not the only one encountering these kind of issues.
I have flashed the v19 on my motor and the newest version on my Display. The Problem must be in the displays code since I only reflashed the display after the last power loss and everything worked fine again. Concerning the question casianho asked: The Display still shows the correct time after the power losses and reflashing procedure. I hope this info can be helpful to this matter.
Since I rely on my bike for everyday commutes I will be using my old XH-18 Display as of now.
I hope in the future I will have the option to use my Motor with the more advanced 850c Display without hickups!
Nevertheless: Thank you all for your efforts and overwhelming support, You are great!
 
EschoffiereMich said:
The Problem must be in the displays code since I only reflashed the display after the last power loss and everything worked fine again.
Do you remember if it did power off when you were riding or when you were stopped??
 
Hello everyone, I want to disassemble the torque sensor to calibrate it but after removing many pieces I don't know how to remove the torque sensor without damaging it, since it seems delicate; any ideas or help?


mvimg_10.jpg



img_2010.jpg
 
mgtroyas said:
Hello all,

I've been enjoying my TSDZ2 daily on my classic 90s steel 26" MTB for more than a year now, for daily commuting. It's a great motor. But a problem has slowly arised and now it's becoming frustrating. I hope somebody cand point what the origin could be. It's the 2018 350W 36V model with xh18 controller and no brake sensors. I use it with a 36V 20Ah battery.
...

Hello, sounds like problem with main gear - sprag clutch bearing. The problem on mine was not visible, but after I replaced it's been felt again as a new motor.
Blue gear should be also checked. That's visible if blue gear has problem.
I have videos how I replaced both of them on my youtube channel.
 
josafrik said:
Hello everyone, I want to disassemble the torque sensor to calibrate it but after removing many pieces I don't know how to remove the torque sensor without damaging it, since it seems delicate; any ideas or help?
Next step would be to make sure you did disconnect the torque sensor cable from the motor controller. Than, you need to invert the axle and on the other side of that picture, insert the axle and with a hammer, do small knocks and the torque sensor should start moving out.

Anyway, the best calibration method is yet to be implemented on firmware. Only if your torque sensor has "lost" like the first 30 kgs of measurements, then maybe you should do that hardware calibration. I think the torque sensors can measure like 110 kg at least but if they lost the first 30 or 40 kgs, then they will able to measure only 70 kgs, which should be ok for some but for me that I weight 105 kgs, I would like to have the first 30 kgs....
 
RicMcK said:
TI LM35? At digikey there are 2 different ML35's and I can't determine which one(s) is/are the correct one for the motor temp sensor.

The part #'s are

DigiKey# 296-43342-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/LFT1 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-LFT1/296-35151-1-ND/3640792
LM35DZ/NOPB-ND
MFG# LM35DZ/NOPB https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM35DZ-NOPB/LM35DZ-NOPB-ND/32489


I am also thinking of getting this thermal putty (12w/mk) TG-PP10-50G
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/t-global-technology/TG-PP10-50G/1168-2164-ND/6204863

My idea is to make a dam to seal off the back of the motor, and then apply a piece of Teflon or blue (outdoor tape), or mold release to the motor so the sealant will not stick to it, then put mold release on the inside of the outer case and inject the putty to fill the cavity between the outer case and motor.

What do you think about this idea??

Thanks, Rick

My thinking would be to dam it off inside and outside so the putty only goes on the laminated steel stator where the heat is produced. Let the putty directly form onto that part of the motor for best heat transfer. Use mold release inside the cover until the putty hardens, maybe assisted by a hot air gun. Then clean out the cover and install it coated with non hardening TIM paste like Arctic Silver 5 that overclockers use.
You really want the most direct connection you can get between the heat source and the cooling material. The Saran wrap and tape will allow air pockets in the rough surface of the motor that will hurt heat transfer. You could still disassemble the motor ,the stator will just have a ring of hardened putty surrounding it. How to inject the putty to completely fill the space IDK, but it looks like a good idea.
 
I received my bootloader and 850C today. Opening the box took longer than updating the firmware. Just follow the posted instructions. BOOM. DONE.

Great widget that is worth every dollar. :bigthumb:
 
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