My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Does anybody know of a good third party charger?

I tried to an XLR adapter with another charger, and it didn't work. My original charger started smoking when I plugged it in one day.

The guys at Grin (who sell the satiator) said that some chargers require a handshake before they start charging.

I have the 48V 20Ah Batter and My charger looks like this:
U948fd0d9ff26454f8cd21e514d1e24d8r.jpg


Thanks!
 
I just cut mine off the "smoking charger" and used it as an extension for the Grin with the other end being an XLR. :bigthumb:
 
robwalley1963 said:
I have a Frey HT1000 and estimated clearance for a 50t is <1mm from the frame. Is it close on the AM1000 or is the chainstay very different on these models?
Click to expand...

i have a Frey AM1000 v3. with bashguard clearance with a 50t is also a problem. Frey HT1000 might also have the bashguard !?
but: i am preparing my Shimano 12speed conversion at the moment (i began changing the chain being the key for this 12sp drivetrain - using the 12sp XT 8100 shimano chain with my 11sp setup at the moment.). so i had a closer look at the chainline. normally using a 11speed setup it should be around the 5. cog (and not at the middle). but chainline was closer to the frame. so i had to take off the bashguard mounting the chainring at its position (you will need some shorter chainring bolts). suddenly chainline was perfect. newer Frey models (AM1000 v5) dont have a bashguard anymore and i guess the chainline and clearence is ok. so the positive side effect was: clearence is now much better for larger chainrings. chain at the largest cog looks a little weird now but this is also the case with any other 11/12sp setup...it is meant like this.
so if your chainline is also too close to your frame you can simply swap your chainring with your bashguard.

ps. interesting: Wolftooth BCD130 chainring is compatible with Shimano HG 12x chain (however Wolftooth says it is not). even the quick link is no problem. i am running this setup for around 200-300km now. one difference: drivetrain is quieter :lol:
i also tested the raceface 44t which was not compatible.
 
barbarossa said:
ps. interesting: Wolftooth BCD130 chainring is compatible with Shimano HG 12x chain (however Wolftooth says it is not). even the quick link is no problem. i am running this setup for around 200-300km now. one difference: drivetrain is quieter :lol:
i also tested the raceface 44t which was not compatible.
Click to expand...

that IS interesting, thanks for the info! I use the wolftooth chainring also, but have yet to dive into 1x12 options yet.
 
garyal1 said:
I just cut mine off the "smoking charger" and used it as an extension for the Grin with the other end being an XLR. :bigthumb:
Click to expand...


And it worked just like that? Jtw guys at grin said it would work if I tried that because a 'handshake' might be needed
 
Deafcat said:
barbarossa said:
ps. interesting: Wolftooth BCD130 chainring is compatible with Shimano HG 12x chain (however Wolftooth says it is not). even the quick link is no problem. i am running this setup for around 200-300km now. one difference: drivetrain is quieter :lol:
i also tested the raceface 44t which was not compatible.
Click to expand...

that IS interesting, thanks for the info! I use the wolftooth chainring also, but have yet to dive into 1x12 options yet.
Click to expand...

Yeah! I remember you have the 50t. I was really surprised. this shimano chain is amazing, it sticks to the Wolftooth chainring - i have never seen such a strong effect of narrow/wide before - but also the chain is easy released - tested it with my hands rolling the chain over the chainring. it seems to be magic 😃
Only downside: i love Onyx Hubs. Which are not cheap and the only possible hub with microspline is Onyx Vesper. Vesper has only 1 1/2 sprag clutches compared to the 2 of my current old Onyx hub...
 
barbarossa said:
Yeah! I remember you have the 50t. I was really surprised. this shimano chain is amazing, it sticks to the Wolftooth chainring - i have never seen such a strong effect of narrow/wide before - but also the chain is easy released - tested it with my hands rolling the chain over the chainring. it seems to be magic 😃
Only downside: i love Onyx Hubs. Which are not cheap and the only possible hub with microspline is Onyx Vesper. Vesper has only 1 1/2 sprag clutches compared to the 2 of my current old Onyx hub...
Click to expand...

Ahh that damn Microspline! I forgot that was necessary with their new 12 speed. Vesper hubs look nice, but they don't actually recommend them for ebikes or downhill bikes, so it's safe to assume they aren't as tough as OG Onyx. I'll stick with HG spline for now since SRAM makes their NX Eagle to suit it, haven't tried fitting their x12 chain to the ring yet.
 
Hi All,

Just signed up. And getting ready to order AM1000.
Have any AM1000 owners changed your throttle location?

Was wondering if the throttle can be changed to a twist. Found following throttle options:
Its for bbsxx but looks like the same connector.

https://lunacycle.com/bafang-half-twist-throttle-right-side/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ebike-Right-Hand-Twist-Throttle-Compatible-for-BAFANG-Mid-Drive-Motor-BBSXX-Kit/352553343940?hash=item5215d11bc4:g:takAAOSwjCVcpDBO

Thanks
Rob
 
zj4041 said:
Hi All,
Have any AM1000 owners changed your throttle location?
Click to expand...

No, throttle on the left because rear brake lever is on the right here in Belgium.
 
barbarossa said:
robwalley1963 said:
I have a Frey HT1000 and estimated clearance for a 50t is <1mm from the frame. Is it close on the AM1000 or is the chainstay very different on these models?
Click to expand...

i have a Frey AM1000 v3. with bashguard clearance with a 50t is also a problem. Frey HT1000 might also have the bashguard !?
but: i am preparing my Shimano 12speed conversion at the moment (i began changing the chain being the key for this 12sp drivetrain - using the 12sp XT 8100 shimano chain with my 11sp setup at the moment.). so i had a closer look at the chainline. normally using a 11speed setup it should be around the 5. cog (and not at the middle). but chainline was closer to the frame. so i had to take off the bashguard mounting the chainring at its position (you will need some shorter chainring bolts). suddenly chainline was perfect. newer Frey models (AM1000 v5) dont have a bashguard anymore and i guess the chainline and clearence is ok. so the positive side effect was: clearence is now much better for larger chainrings. chain at the largest cog looks a little weird now but this is also the case with any other 11/12sp setup...it is meant like this.
so if your chainline is also too close to your frame you can simply swap your chainring with your bashguard.

ps. interesting: Wolftooth BCD130 chainring is compatible with Shimano HG 12x chain (however Wolftooth says it is not). even the quick link is no problem. i am running this setup for around 200-300km now. one difference: drivetrain is quieter :lol:
i also tested the raceface 44t which was not compatible.
Click to expand...

That'll be a no by a hairs breath. The Wolftooth 50t lightly brushes the frame, only a couple of wide teeth that have muck on them, but the margin is too small, the gap is basically zero, unmeasurable. 48T is going to be max on the Frey HT1000. Already ordered but pricey in the UK. I also took off the lockring and inner chainwheel part to see if a 1mm spacer is possible(the chainstay angle is slight so a 1mm spacer should, according to trig give an extra 4mm clearance), but the ultra has a recess, meaning the spacer would have to be custom made and very small difference between ID and OD which would make it delicate and also have a minor effect on the chain line.

So I end up with 48t to 11-42 Cassette, it's good for general off-road and tarmac and I'm not Chris Froome.

So now I have a Wolftooth 50t and a Raceface 44t (both wide/narrow) 130bcd that need to move onwards.
 
jeron said:
zj4041 said:
Hi All,
Have any AM1000 owners changed your throttle location?
Click to expand...

No, throttle on the left because rear brake lever is on the right here in Belgium.
Click to expand...

I use right hand half twist throttles on all my eBikes. This is because of my motorcycles. Keeps the muscle memory intact.....Most recently, I specify this when ordering a Frey Bike....
 
robwalley1963 said:
That'll be a no by a hairs breath. The Wolftooth 50t lightly brushes the frame, only a couple of wide teeth that have muck on them, but the margin is too small, the gap is basically zero, unmeasurable. 48T is going to be max on the Frey HT1000. Already ordered but pricey in the UK. I also took off the lockring and inner chainwheel part to see if a 1mm spacer is possible(the chainstay angle is slight so a 1mm spacer should, according to trig give an extra 4mm clearance), but the ultra has a recess, meaning the spacer would have to be custom made and very small difference between ID and OD which would make it delicate and also have a minor effect on the chain line.

So I end up with 48t to 11-42 Cassette, it's good for general off-road and tarmac and I'm not Chris Froome.

So now I have a Wolftooth 50t and a Raceface 44t (both wide/narrow) 130bcd that need to move onwards.
Click to expand...

i understand. i have had a look a the HT1000 thread. it is already mounted outside with 50t measured the <1mm. so the only other option would be another cassette: SRAM xg1150 last cogs = ...18-16-14-12-10 in comparison to SRAM pg1130/Shimano XT8000 = ...19-17-15-13-11. this makes a lot difference. but you would need a xd freehub body. perhaps another wheelset if your freehub body could not be changed to sram xd.
my Frey AM1000 came with a novatec freehub with steel freehub body. this is a cheap freehub which sooner or later will fail according to my drive style :roll: . but other more known big high priced brands with their Bosch/Shimano motors dont have better freehubs - some $5000 ebikes even have some aluminium HG feehub bodies. so Frey did a good job to provide at least a steel freehub body. anyways depending on your riding style the original freehub might perhaps fail sooner or later. in the end you can enjoy your basic setup and if time has come to replace your freehub you can go for a sram xd or shimano microspline wheelset/hub... :wink:
 
barbarossa said:
robwalley1963 said:
That'll be a no by a hairs breath. The Wolftooth 50t lightly brushes the frame, only a couple of wide teeth that have muck on them, but the margin is too small, the gap is basically zero, unmeasurable. 48T is going to be max on the Frey HT1000. Already ordered but pricey in the UK. I also took off the lockring and inner chainwheel part to see if a 1mm spacer is possible(the chainstay angle is slight so a 1mm spacer should, according to trig give an extra 4mm clearance), but the ultra has a recess, meaning the spacer would have to be custom made and very small difference between ID and OD which would make it delicate and also have a minor effect on the chain line.

So I end up with 48t to 11-42 Cassette, it's good for general off-road and tarmac and I'm not Chris Froome.

So now I have a Wolftooth 50t and a Raceface 44t (both wide/narrow) 130bcd that need to move onwards.
Click to expand...

i understand. i have had a look a the HT1000 thread. it is already mounted outside with 50t measured the <1mm. so the only other option would be another cassette: SRAM xg1150 last cogs = ...18-16-14-12-10 in comparison to SRAM pg1130/Shimano XT8000 = ...19-17-15-13-11. this makes a lot difference. but you would need a xd freehub body. perhaps another wheelset if your freehub body could not be changed to sram xd.
my Frey AM1000 came with a novatec freehub with steel freehub body. this is a cheap freehub which sooner or later will fail according to my drive style :roll: . but other more known big high priced brands with their Bosch/Shimano motors dont have better freehubs - some $5000 ebikes even have some aluminium HG feehub bodies. so Frey did a good job to provide at least a steel freehub body. anyways depending on your riding style the original freehub might perhaps fail sooner or later. in the end you can enjoy your basic setup and if time has come to replace your freehub you can go for a sram xd or shimano microspline wheelset/hub... :wink:
Click to expand...

Already looked at the SRAM XG1150, but as you said, it's a whole new wheel and 148/12 boost isn't vast in choice and pricey. Also everyone is advising against a 10t cog with an ultra's torque, I'll go with the 48t with 11-40t shimano cassette for now. Also if you use a chain calculator, the 50t just goes to the next length (124 links), the 48/40 is ok for the given 122 link KMC e11 as it nearly matches the original 40/46 that came with the HT1000. Having said that an upgrade to the Wipperman Connex 11se (124) might not be a bad idea at some point.
 
garyal1 said:
jeron said:
zj4041 said:
Hi All,
Have any AM1000 owners changed your throttle location?
Click to expand...

No, throttle on the left because rear brake lever is on the right here in Belgium.
Click to expand...

I use right hand half twist throttles on all my eBikes. This is because of my motorcycles. Keeps the muscle memory intact.....Most recently, I specify this when ordering a Frey Bike....
Click to expand...

And you kept the rear brake on the right?
 
robwalley1963 said:
Already looked at the SRAM XG1150, but as you said, it's a whole new wheel and 148/12 boost isn't vast in choice and pricey. Also everyone is advising against a 10t cog with an ultra's torque, I'll go with the 48t with 11-40t shimano cassette for now. Also if you use a chain calculator, the 50t just goes to the next length (124 links), the 48/40 is ok for the given 122 link KMC e11 as it nearly matches the original 40/46 that came with the HT1000. Having said that an upgrade to the Wipperman Connex 11se (124) might not be a bad idea at some point.
Click to expand...

I use the xg1150 in my 2000w+ (shunt mod 45A) setup, no problems so far. also never had a problem with the 10t. but of course using the original 30A ultra setup Shimano freehub body will also work (but i think at its design limits). to be honest i also had my doubts but was convinced by Karl Gesslein : https://electricbike-blog.com/2018/04/24/because-there-is-no-such-thing-as-too-many-gears-11-speed-sram-10-42t-gx-gearset-at-2500-watts/

connex 11se chain is also on my testing wish list 😊 i need 128 links and it is available up to 136 , cool !!!
 
Just had a nasty crash. I was on a signle track on a big hill on assist 9 and biggest cog when suddenly the motor stops right before the top. The hill was so steep i couldn't recover safely. So yeah, some brused ribs..

It wasn't the first time the motor stopped for a brief moment. I suspect a bad gear sensor, so i pulled the gear sensor connector.

But it makes me wondering: i don't want any automated stuff that control's the motor function. So no gear sensor and no brake sensors either. The brake switch is super sensitive.

The plan is to disconnect the brake switches and gear switch and put a small button on my steering that can switch the motor momentary off so i can keep pedaling when i select a gear or in case off emergency. A button because I want to decide when the motor stops or not...

I would like to know how you guys are doing this. And is a simple NC/NO button ok? When i pull the brake Higo connector i can see 3 pins? Why 3?

I would like to have a button in 2 stages, soft touch is like a push button and a harder touch is like a real switch. Any recommendations?
 
I have a lever for this function, took over from the front brake electric cutoff. I use it as a clutch lever essentially, tap to cut power during shifts, or hold to cut power while riding low speeds in particular. The lever is custom made 1.5 finger size, sits below the front brake lever in a very comfortable spot. No gear sensor on the bike of course, only other cutout is on the rear brake.

z5zvlyru2i521.jpg
 
Deafcat said:
I have a lever for this function, took over from the front brake electric cutoff. I use it as a clutch lever essentially, tap to cut power during shifts, or hold to cut power while riding low speeds in particular. The lever is custom made 1.5 finger size, sits below the front brake lever in a very comfortable spot. No gear sensor on the bike of course, only other cutout is on the rear brake.

z5zvlyru2i521.jpg
Click to expand...

Can we get some more pictures from your handle bar? I like the idea!
 
What else would you like to see about it?

It was very easy to build, I bought a cheap replacement mech brake lever w/ electric cutout from Biktrix, then removed the stock lever, installed a 3D printed one (onyx+fiberglass), added a spring and a machined screw where the cable tension nut would go, and plugged er right in... came with the proper higo end already (no soldering required).

I've considered replacing the housing portion with a better designed printed version (more compact, two-screw bar mounting for easier install), could even consider selling some if there was interest. Probably come out around $65-70 per unit, completely plug and play ready to install.

In addition to that addon, I've also got printed mounting hardware for the DPC-18 control with integrated central mount for the Outbound headlamp, and printed mounting for Spurcycle bell, allowing it to fit much more comfortably next to the right hand brake. All of the components are two-screw bar clamping to make life easier.

DPC-18 + headlight mount:
jhcxjcp.jpg


oRf6095.jpg


Spurcycle mount:
ZqRQdyH.jpg
 
I also designed & printed out new mounts for the DPC (before I got the 700C) but yours is a level above...nice work! :bigthumb:
 
It must be time for a ride video. This is a section of the West Wimba Trail in Lake James State Park near Morganton, NC. I'm using Eco3 - more than enough assist to easily pedal the XC trail - sometimes faster up than down. Every once in a while you'll see my Samsung phone pop up, mounted to the handlebars. This is my 1st time on the trail and I'm using Locus Map Pro GPS app as a trail guide.

Change the "Settings" if it plays at low res.
[youtube]jdci_5sXVMc[/youtube]
 
Hi All - loving my AM1000!

I'm 6'7", so my real size is closer TO XXL, but I bought Frey's biggest at XL. I'm finding the handlebars just a tad too close and want to push them out a bit. I'm good on leg length. Anyone know the measurements off-hand for the fork connection (the vertical bar from the fork which passes though the (head tube?) and is grabbed by the stem) as well as the handlebar width?

*Basically I want to get a longer stem and would love the measurements that I need to purchase.

OH and while we're at it, I remember reading about shorter cranks. I'm sure I could find the answer from a search in about 2 minutes, but if someone feels like calling that out as well, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Stanleybb50 said:
OH and while we're at it, I remember reading about shorter cranks. I'm sure I could find the answer from a search in about 2 minutes, but if someone feels like calling that out as well, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Shorter cranks: 150 mm Delta
REF NUMBER: PD11IBT17CA700001541
Miranda bikes
https://mirandabikeparts.com

Let me know what you think of them, if I get my bike its possible I will order a set to.
 
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