Dengfu M09 Endruo/Freeride build log

Morning all,
Kepler, could you please post a pic of the 'single speed sensor' cable? showing the length. I received the twin cable as shown on the schematic you posted. The second port on this cable is a duplicate of the middle unused connector on the motor.
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Hi Animalector, not sure if this helps but the length of you speed sensor cable looks right and the same as mine. Just tuck the extra cable inside the frame in the motor cavity. That purple pin out you are refering to I think is for a tail light but just guessing. My purple pin out is not being used for anything and just sitting open zip tied to the chain stay. Great to hear you are getting closer to having your ride up and running.

Also Kepler it good to see you have a throttle supplied. I know you mentioned you are not intending to use the throttle but if you do -- I used the pin outs from the supplied throttle and rewired it to a Luna half twist https://lunacycle.com/bafang-half-twist-throttle-right-side/ and that made a huge improvement over the stock thumb bafang throttle that was supplied. I would recomend this throttle should you decide to go with a throttle. The banfang thumb job is horrible. .....wayne
 
Hi Wayne,

My frame is a little bit different to yours. the mount must be further towards the axel, because the cable is not long enough for me to use the internal routing holes. I had to cut and extend the cable in order to install it correctly.. mounting the sensor further towards the rim will work, however then the gap between sensor and magnet is large.
Pics will help (below)
If there is a cable that exists which is longer and has no bulky join, it will be ideal for my purposes.
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Not saying this will work for sure but if you put a rare earth magnet stacked on top of the spoke magnet it will close up the gap to the sensor and may be close enough to work with sensor mounted closer to the BB area so you can use your internat routing in its stock configuration.

On my HD 1000 I stacked a rare earch magnet on my spoke magnet and I thought it gave a better signal. Not saying this is a fact but I thought it helped and in you case it would let you slide your spoke magnet closer to the rim itself and let you move the sensor more towards the BB area.

Also I just notice now looking at my bike the internal routing hole you mention on your chain stay is used for brake line only on my bike. Never intended for sensor routing. On the under side of the chain stay ,rear brake rotor side (left side of bike) there is a plastic fitment that I have zip tied my sensor harness to under the stay. Works and looks OK like this for me, do you have the litttle plastic fitment under your chain stay as well?.......wayne
 
Animalector said:
Morning all,
Kepler, could you please post a pic of the 'single speed sensor' cable? showing the length. I received the twin cable as shown on the schematic you posted. The second port on this cable is a duplicate of the middle unused connector on the motor.
IMG_20190825_084339 (Custom).jpg

My speed sensor is already installed but below are a few pictures for reference.

Trying to run the speed sensor internally through the swing arm is never going to work as even the plug on its own is too large to fit through any reasonable sized hole in a swing arm. Dengfu have opted for an external cable run. Not quite as neat as an internal run cable but I think the right solution for this drive.

I think the single cable like I was supplied is neater then the double cable you have but probably a similar length.

The cable management on this frame is really well thought out.
 

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artyy said:
BTW I bought a battery case for 40 USD plus shipping costs. It looks like this - you maybe interested.

Thanks for posting that. I will certainly keep this option as "plan B"

Still skeptical on the security of the battery with a key latch which Wayne has confirmed with the need to tape the battery in on harder rides. My battery mounting solution will be bullet proof. Battery removal will take a minute or two and will need tools so not the perfect solution for all.
 
Hi, I don't quite get how you are going to fasten the battery. So when you finish please show it to us, maybe I will use your way in my future build (still waiting for frame, motor , battery box)...
Artyy
 
The battery mounting system is coming along. The actual battery is held in place with angle aluminium brackets and secured to extension posts attached to the 4mm blind nuts embedded in the frame.

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The actual battery cover is light weight 2mm plastic sheet isnt structual at all. The cover will be held in place with locating pins on each end of the cover. Rare earth magnets will be used further secure the cover in place.

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I can confirm that the maximum number of cells I can fit in this bike is 65 cells. Using 35E cells, this means an 820 Whr battery pack could be fitted to this bike. As mentioned before, I will start with a small 25R 13S3P pack as I have the cells lying around doing nothing at the moment..

With the small pack installed, I will have a bit of room left in the battery compartment and might store a puncture repair kit in there also.
 
There was never a doubt in my mind Kepler on what you would get done on this bike. Awesome! Glad you are on board.I have forgoten if you are going with the CF rims from Dengfu, if so - I hope you have better luck than me installing new tires on the CF rims. Super tight fit and I had to cut the old tires off with a knife to get the kevelar beads free and getting the new ones on was even more difficult......wayne
 
Yes, I am going with the Dengfu carbon rims. Hope they don't give me too much trouble. I have dealt with many tight rims before but from what you are saying, these are next level. I will be going tubeless so at least I can expect a good seal.

Do you have the 50mm (outside measurement) wide rims? They look like they will be massive on the bike. Hope I don't have tire clearance issues. Rims are still a week away. At least I will have everything else finished by the time they arrive.
 
Hey Kepler

Photo's show tire clearance from todays instal of my new set of tires. Got 1100 kilometers on the original set and the rear is getting pretty worn. I went with the "Tough" version rather than the "Light" this time on the WTB Rangers - 27 1/2 x 2.8" and as you can see tons of room. I dont find the rim too wide at all not sure on width of my rims now that the tires on mounted. Screen Shot 2019-08-27 at 9.14.11 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2019-08-27 at 9.14.40 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2019-08-27 at 9.14.56 PM.jpg
The second two photos show the "Murderous Methods" for getting the old tires off. I cut the tire and then pulled and twisted the sidewalls with needle nose pliers until I could cut the kevelar beads with a knife to free the beads off the rims. I did get them off but some bad language was involved. I would need a trailer in tow for my tool kit to handle trail side tire repair for sure.

If the dumb clucks from Dengfu put your tires on the rims for you - look out, I would not recommend this as they put cheapo valve stems on the wheel sets and they have non removable stems. No good for sliming the tire for dessert use as the beads are not comming off with out cutting the tire off like shown, atleast not with the combo of rims and tires I had from Dengfu. Maybe things have changed from my purchase but I doubt it.

The extra bummer on the tire instal today was the second tire did not seal at the stans no tube stem. The first rim I did with Gorilla duck tape and Slime then on the second wheel which was the tire that did not work, I did with the stans rim tape and the stans no tubes solution. I guess its the tape job and most likely right at the stem, maybe I cut the hole to sloppy or something. Now I need to take the tire off again (good thing its not seated yet so tire levers will work) take out the gunk wash everything & apply new tape etc etc. I hope things go smoother tomorrow.
 
Thanks for that. No worried about the clearance now. Extreme measures on getting that tire off that is for sure. I am hoping the tire I am using has better matching beads to the rim. I am using Maxxis Minion DHF 27.5x2.80" . Will lube up the rim beads well before fitting the tires.

I am using Stans valves so no problems there.
 
Thanks a lot for description. One clarification: nuts embedded in the frame were plced there originally?
btw what for?
Greg
 
Getting close now. My Shimano XT Di2 derailleur and shifter kit has arrived. this is nice piece of gear and am looking forwarded to putting it though its paces.

So just waiting on the wheels and the dropper post. Should see these last two main items turn up next week.

Been working on the custom battery which is coming along nicely. Building batteries as so labour intensive.

Battery construction is completed. Just needs to be covered and heat shrunk. At 1800 grams and capable of 20amp without breaking a sweat, I think should make this a useful battery. Time will tell if a 350 Whr battery is enough for this bike.


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As mentioned before, I don't use a BMS. Not that I recommend this design philosophy, it is just what personally prefer. It should be noted though that I will monitor the balance of the pack regularly.
 
Pack is now completed and fits perfectly into the frame.

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Cockpit is also complete and powered. Di2 display is designed to go where the Bafang display goes but mounting it outboard on the lefthand side of the handle bars I think has been a good compromise.

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Just waiting of the dropper post and wheels to arrive. Should see them next week so a test ride next weekend is not out of the question.
 
Hi,
Another technical question: what is the type of rear drop mount, I mean:
M12x1.5 — Boost E-thru
170mm length, 10mm thread length
M12x1.75 — Boost
180mm length, 20mm thread length
or something different
What kind of rear hub did you use? Did you need any adapters?
(I am looking for wheels as you can guess ... )
artyy
 
The rear dropout is 148mm boost with 12mm through axle. The through axle is supplied with the frame.

I used a standard shimano 11 speed hub as I am using an 11 speed 11-46 cassette. Sram NX eagle will also fit the Shimano hub. Sram cassettes with a 10 tooth in the cluster will need the XD driver fitted to the hub.
 
Well the bike is finally a roller. 8)

Wheels arrived yesterday from Dengfu in a timely manor. Added the Stans rim tape in prep to run tubeless. I have fitted tubes for now just to get rolling. The Maxxis DXF tires went on nice and easy and with a bit of soapy water, the beads popped in with very little effort. I am keen to remove the tubes a go tubeless sooner then later as the tubes add a kg to the bike's weight. Will be interesting to see if I have the same problem as Wayne with breaking the bead to remove the tubes.

Setup the suspension with the correct sag and generic rebound for my pressures. Downloaded the latest firmware for the Di2 components and set the shift modes to my preferences.

Time to ride:

First impression:
The bike is around 20kg with my light weight battery and pedals really well for a bike of this weight. A flat battery certainly wont be a disaster on this bike.

Fired up the motor on level 1 assist. After riding my friction drives for so long, even level 1 feels a little over assisted. That being said, the torque sensing is excellent and drive activation very reactive.
The motor noise is a little louder then what i was hoping for. It is certainly louder then my BBS02 setup. I am hoping it will quieten down after a bit of running. That being said, even as it is, it is still quieter then a Bosch.

I am running a 38 tooth up front. I hope this will be a good compromise between low speed climbing max speed.

On power level 5, the bike has got some good bunch but certainly not a wheelie machine which for me is a good thing.

Still to finish off the battery cover but I should have this done by the end of the weekend. I have found the battery mounting is super secure even with just one support rail. I may just leave it with one rail and use the remain posts to attach the battery cover.

You can see the plug for the throttle protruding out the side. I am not that keen to use the thumb throttle but want to test it just to see if it will work without the battery interface.

Custom decals arrived today. All the mat black I think makes the bike a bit drab looking. I am hoping the the Decals give the bike a bit of a lift. I have used the color pallet from the Fox suspension so hopefully it will have a nice OEM feel about it.

Let me know what you think of the decals good or bad. You won't hurt my feelings :) I deliberately left the rear decal off on the right had side as a comparison.

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Looking realy nice, I like the decals as well. Glad you are rolling. Keep us update on how it works for you. I have forgoten, I am guessing you have the steel gear in your motor. Mine is still the plastic one and its pretty quiet but it may break prematurly one day who knows. But yes even with the plastic gear it is still a bit louder than the HD1000 but not much. Also was not sure if you moved the 200/210 flip flop thing around to get you more ground clearance. I did on mine and prefer it this way with the higher ground clearance maybe 1/2" more or so but worth it.
 
That is a fantastic looking bike!

I’m debating going to a store bought or possibly build a bike using the same mid drive. I have a 120 lbs Vector/MaxE/QS 205/20s15/motorcycle tired/8” travel/65 mph beast right now but find myself really wanting a nice 50/60lbs bike to ride.

Looks like you’d recommend that?

Tom
 
Looks great! Like the color play. Ordered an X1 and I agree about the flat black. debating on how I'm going to dress it up. Where did you get your decal? And is that a 29 up front? I'd like to think that the Luna would be setup for Tubeless but the ad just said tubless ready. Not having my hopes up. Glad I ordered but its taking its time. We will see.
 
waynebergman said:
Looking realy nice, I like the decals as well. Glad you are rolling. Keep us update on how it works for you. I have forgoten, I am guessing you have the steel gear in your motor. Mine is still the plastic one and its pretty quiet but it may break prematurly one day who knows. But yes even with the plastic gear it is still a bit louder than the HD1000 but not much. Also was not sure if you moved the 200/210 flip flop thing around to get you more ground clearance. I did on mine and prefer it this way with the higher ground clearance maybe 1/2" more or so but worth it.

I forgot about the steel gear update. That explains the extra noise. I think i would prefer the security of the steel gears over quieter operation.

My shock is 210mm so it only fits the low flip chip setting.

With regards to the wheels, you are going to hate me. The bead breaks away easily when the tire is deflated. I think i have a different rim to you though looking at your wheel pictures. Mine is 50mm outer 45mm inner. Very pleased with these rims.

Glad you like the decals. I have put the rear decal on the right hand side of the bike now. I think with the showy front shock it gives better balance to the color scheme
 
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