New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Question on stock firmware settings: The "A" setting in the firmware (power) is this max or continuous amperage? The stock is 16, so if you put it to 32 does this mean it's getting that many amps max??

There's a similar setting in the open source firmware but I believe the wiki says this will be limited by the firmware to 18 amps.
I can confirm, if you set this to max in stock firmware, it is very, very easy to get the motor super hot. So I am wondering what exactly is going on here, I am getting different answers on the internet looking this up. It has to be related to amperage somehow with that heat.
 
The controller is physically not capable of 32 amps. I believe that 18 amps is all it can put out.
The setting on the stock firmware doesn't seem to work, I've tried it on several builds and feel no difference in power between max and min settings.
 
Aquakitty said:
Question on stock firmware settings: The "A" setting in the firmware (power) is this max or continuous amperage? The stock is 16, so if you put it to 32 does this mean it's getting that many amps max??

There's a similar setting in the open source firmware but I believe the wiki says this will be limited by the firmware to 18 amps.
I can confirm, if you set this to max in stock firmware, it is very, very easy to get the motor super hot. So I am wondering what exactly is going on here, I am getting different answers on the internet looking this up. It has to be related to amperage somehow with that heat.
Yes it is a max (peak) amp setting . And it is hardcoded. 18A sounds about right.

The motor windings have resistance. The more current flowing the higher the loses == heat. The motor (unmodified) can only handle approx 10A of continuous current (likely less depending on ambient) The max current is set higher for small bursts of power over the continuous thermal rating of the motor. Unfortunately stock the motor does not have a temperature sensor to mitigate a user that tries to get too much from the motor.
 
knutselmaaster said:
The controller is physically not capable of 32 amps. I believe that 18 amps is all it can put out.
The setting on the stock firmware doesn't seem to work, I've tried it on several builds and feel no difference in power between max and min settings.

Hmm, mine seem to work. I have 3 motors. One is still on stock firmware. You can definitely feel the difference. I'm referring to the "A" setting in hidden settings btw, not the levels.

For instance, spouse and I went for ride yesterday, like ~20 km mountain bike up and down hill. He's on the stock firmware, with the A set to 32. I am on the open source, amps default at 16. We switched bikes to see the difference and his felt more powerful in some way, like easier to get going basically. Even when mine was on "5". But could be something I am doing wrong with the open source firmware. The good news is on a fairly steep hill on the open source firmware my motor was still cool to touch. His motor was super hot. I'm awaiting a watt meter maybe that will tell something more? Can't see watts on stock LCD afaik.
 
mctubster said:
Aquakitty said:
Question on stock firmware settings: The "A" setting in the firmware (power) is this max or continuous amperage? The stock is 16, so if you put it to 32 does this mean it's getting that many amps max??

There's a similar setting in the open source firmware but I believe the wiki says this will be limited by the firmware to 18 amps.
I can confirm, if you set this to max in stock firmware, it is very, very easy to get the motor super hot. So I am wondering what exactly is going on here, I am getting different answers on the internet looking this up. It has to be related to amperage somehow with that heat.
Yes it is a max (peak) amp setting . And it is hardcoded. 18A sounds about right.

The motor windings have resistance. The more current flowing the higher the loses == heat. The motor (unmodified) can only handle approx 10A of continuous current (likely less depending on ambient) The max current is set higher for small bursts of power over the continuous thermal rating of the motor. Unfortunately stock the motor does not have a temperature sensor to mitigate a user that tries to get too much from the motor.

So do you know what the "A" means exactly? The manual just calls it "power". Like does 32 just mean it's on Turbo all the time?
 
eyebyesickle said:
Guys, I'm working on a short article for the cooling of the TSDZ2... I tried all sorts of things... At the end to keep it simple, let me tell you what I found to be best.

Thermal Pads, GP extreme are best, and have high thermal transfer, but you can get something cheaper, just doesn't work as good.

Things to consider'

- one end of the motor, that faces the controller doesn't really need anything, so don't waste $$ on expensive thermal pad there IMO... Plus I wouldn't want to bring the heat closer to the controller, where the tops of the caps are..

- in the motor cover, there is a lip it fits into, so don't bring up the thermal pads too high or you won't be able to get the cover on

- the top of the motor is concave

- you don't want the thermal pads to catch and tear on the lip of the motor cover

So, here is what I do.

Motor:

- put 3mm thick pad around the middle, which is more recessed then the top and bottom cap
- then wrap the whole thing with another 3mm pad. Leave a little room at the top, because there is a lip on the motor cover.
- use 5-10mm kapton tape around the top edge, securing and protecting the thermal pad from catching/abrasion when the motor cover goes on.

Motor Cover:

- put a 5mm pad/strip around edge of recessed circle
- put a 2mm pad/strip in the middle of the 5mm pad/strip
- grease sides of motor cover with thermal grease, for easy slide on/off, and also aids in thermal transfer


Summary: 3mm around inside of motor to level out the recessed part between the caps, then another 3mm around the whole thing. Put a 5mm ring in the recessed lip at the bottom of the motor cover, and a 2mm pad to fill the middle. Grease the sides with thermal grease. Good to go.

Measurements of strips with pictures coming soon. I already took them but need to format them smaller to post, and I'm on my phone.

I tried alot alot alot of stuff... This is simple, looks clean, and works.

How well does it work? Depends how much you send on quality thermal pads.... Spend almost $100 gets you top of the line GP extreme, and you can run full power alot as long as you keep cadence up as well.... For $20 you can get cheap pads with about 1/5 of the performance... Not worth it IMO, of you are looking for a real solution.

That being said, for under $100, you can take the motor to the next (power) level... More than worth it for me.

Thank you for your time spent on R&D for this problem. Thermal pads are something just about anyone can do. The best pads, in the thickness needed are not cheap. For Thermal Interface Material thinner is better. But if thick is required to do the job then quality becomes important.
Do you find that the end of the motor makes much difference? My thinking is if the heat is removed from the center of the motor the end won't be as hot.
I will probably try a metal solution myself since I'm a retired mechanic with some fabrication skills.
Regarding the heatpipe suggestion, heatpipes are great for moving heat over a distance. But the motor and cover are close together so no need for them.
Braided Copper looks good but since it's not intended for heat transfer use there is no spec. for this application. I would definitley use a thermal grease to increase surface contact area if I tried it.
 
Aquakitty said:
knutselmaaster said:
The controller is physically not capable of 32 amps. I believe that 18 amps is all it can put out.
The setting on the stock firmware doesn't seem to work, I've tried it on several builds and feel no difference in power between max and min settings.

Hmm, mine seem to work. I have 3 motors. One is still on stock firmware. You can definitely feel the difference. I'm referring to the "A" setting in hidden settings btw, not the levels.

For instance, spouse and I went for ride yesterday, like ~20 km mountain bike up and down hill. He's on the stock firmware, with the A set to 32. I am on the open source, amps default at 16. We switched bikes to see the difference and his felt more powerful in some way, like easier to get going basically. Even when mine was on "5". But could be something I am doing wrong with the open source firmware. The good news is on a fairly steep hill on the open source firmware my motor was still cool to touch. His motor was super hot. I'm awaiting a watt meter maybe that will tell something more? Can't see watts on stock LCD afaik.
Ok, thank you for sharing.
Maybe it depends on motor version or maybe I didn't test it thoroughly enough.
As I'm a reseller, I really want to keep the max power at 10A or below because I don't want to have to handle guarantee on burnt motors and broken blue gears.
As long as it is not pushed too much, it is quite a reliable product imo.
10A max accords better with local (EU) legislation also.
 
Aquakitty said:
So do you know what the "A" means exactly? The manual just calls it "power". Like does 32 just mean it's on Turbo all the time?

A is short for Amps or Amperes - which is a measure of current flowing. Ohms law states I=V/R where I is Current in Amps, V is Voltage in Volts, and R is Resistance in Ohms

Power = VI or Volts * Amps.

Because the battery is a fixed voltage (excluding sag and state of charge) then power has a linear relationship with current, in other words the maximum current in Amps defines the maximum power of the motor in Watts (at any given voltage)
 
mctubster said:
Aquakitty said:
So do you know what the "A" means exactly? The manual just calls it "power". Like does 32 just mean it's on Turbo all the time?

A is short for Amps or Amperes - which is a measure of current flowing. Ohms law states I=V/R where I is Current in Amps, V is Voltage in Volts, and R is Resistance in Ohms

Power = VI or Volts * Amps.

Because the battery is a fixed voltage (excluding sag and state of charge) then power has a linear relationship with current, in other words the maximum current in Amps defines the maximum power of the motor in Watts (at any given voltage)

lol, I know what amps are. I meant what does the setting on the VLCD5 do? Does it actually allow the motor to get that high in amperage? I have heard multiple things, that it is limited to 18 by the firmware, and that it really does spike to 32 amps. My educated guess is that it is at least exceeding the amperage it should be because of how hot the motor gets. The stock firmware has no way to view the watts or any other indicator.
 
Aquakitty said:
lol, I know what amps are. I meant what does the setting on the VLCD5 do? Does it actually allow the motor to get that high in amperage? I have heard multiple things, that it is limited to 18 by the firmware, and that it really does spike to 32 amps. My educated guess is that it is at least exceeding the amperage it should be because of how hot the motor gets. The stock firmware has no way to view the watts or any other indicator.

Which firmware? The original firmware has a hardcoded limit in the code. So does the opensource firmware.

The motor is more than capable of overheating at 18A.

Buy a coloumb counter to be sure.
 
Hi all,
i have a question regarding the setting of menu 7.2 in opensource firmware. In this menù you can set the current ramp up, the default value is 5A/s, in your opinion which is the highest value that can be setted without make any damage?
I have tried to increment this value and i have seen that the acceleration is amazing at 7.5A/s but i don't want to make damages....

Maurizio
 
RicMcK said:
arka said:
RicMcK said:
New and improved :D
I changed out my modified inner chainring with the stock steel offset one, with an original spider and my trimmed 53 tooth chainring. I took off about 1.5mm, (see photo) and had to add 1 thin washer between the spider and drive hub. This change eliminated 2 offset washers, and drastically improved the chain line. I could reduce the derailleur offset my 5mm or more.

great, could I ask you to show more pictures especially on the side of the bike, so that I could understand how exactly you screwed it together? Did you have to modify the derailleur? How does it work for you?

Stock duel chainring derailleur (I am using a triple shift lever). I was able to eliminate the messy derailleur offset adapter {shown in photos), with much better chain line. I am not near my bike for a few days, but I now think that a steel large chainring might fit instead of the modified AL one without any problem. I did need to put a thin SS washer between the spider and drive hub to prevent the chainring nuts from hitting the plastic cover. I sealed the spider hub interface with silicone.

I am also messing with motor cooling. Once I get a good configuration I will post it.

Has anybody tried to reinforce the plastic gear cover from the inside while shaving of the corresponding circular pattern parallel of the protruding 110BCD screws. That might not help cause the cover extends too much over the pinion gear making it impossible to the chainring in parallel to the plastic cover. Probably just washers between the spider and the gear sealed with silicone or rubber gasket is the somewhat doable solution regarding to structural integrity.
 
Ive limited my wife's bike to 10 Amps max current. Which equates to 500W peak. She never gets anywhere that .
 
I kept a wattmeter on the original firmware for more than 2 years and I know the engine behavior very well. The 36v motor was no more than 540w, and the amps setting was completely inoperative.
 
andrea_104kg said:
I kept a wattmeter on the original firmware for more than 2 years and I know the engine behavior very well. The 36v motor was no more than 540w, and the amps setting was completely inoperative.
That is my impression too...
540W is still 13A @ full charge and even 16A at low battery, which is quite a lot for such a small controller and too much for the motor to handle for more than a few seconds.
Also, small batteries (<13Ah) won't appreciate that in the long term, even with descent li-ion cells.
 
sysrq said:
Has anybody tried to reinforce the plastic gear cover from the inside while shaving of the corresponding circular pattern parallel of the protruding 110BCD screws. That might not help cause the cover extends too much over the pinion gear making it impossible to the chainring in parallel to the plastic cover. Probably just washers between the spider and the gear sealed with silicone or rubber gasket is the somewhat doable solution regarding to structural integrity.

I vaguely remember someone talking about 3d printing a new gear cover that was lower profile. I have been unable to find the post.
 
andrea_104kg said:
I kept a wattmeter on the original firmware for more than 2 years and I know the engine behavior very well. The 36v motor was no more than 540w, and the amps setting was completely inoperative.

Yea that's definitely not the case on mine. The amps setting with stock firmware does something but no one seems to know what? It might just be spiking it to 18a. Before I cranked it to 32 it did not overheat at all on the ride. I've read in some manuals that the A setting was previously disabled, perhaps that's why your meter showed no difference? Plus, I have the 48v versions. Obviously the setting is available.

I have found it nearly impossible to overheat mine with the OS firmware on amps 16, unlike the second unaltered motor. I have identical motors from the same seller.

Which is why it's limited to 18 amps in the open source code. Maybe I will experiment and burn up a motor for fun.

Code:
#define ADC_10_BIT_BATTERY_CURRENT_MAX                            90      // 18 amps (0.2 amps per 10 bit ADC step)
#define ADC_10_BIT_MOTOR_PHASE_CURRENT_MAX                        150     // 30 amps (0.2 amps per 10 bit ADC step)

/*---------------------------------------------------------
  NOTE: regarding ADC battery current max
  
  This is the maximum current in ADC steps that the motor 
  will be able to draw from the battery. A higher value 
  will give higher torque figures but the limit of the 
  controller is 16 A and it [b]should [/b]not be exceeded.

Seems like people are saying something else limits the current? I was under the impression I can alter the code and fry myself a motor.
 
hello good I have a tsdz2 750w and I would like to install it on my fatbike with the shaft extension, it seems, would I have a problem?
 
Aquakitty said:
Seems like people are saying something else limits the current? I was under the impression I can alter the code and fry myself a motor.
Yes, go and change on the firmware the max limit of 18 amps to something you want. Build and then flash the firmware, finally change max current on the display, test and see the current on display that will be higher than the 18 amps.
 
sysrq said:
Has anybody tried to reinforce the plastic gear cover from the inside while shaving of the corresponding circular pattern parallel of the protruding 110BCD screws. That might not help cause the cover extends too much over the pinion gear making it impossible to the chainring in parallel to the plastic cover. Probably just washers between the spider and the gear sealed with silicone or rubber gasket is the somewhat doable solution regarding to structural integrity.
[/quote]
I vaguely remember someone talking about 3d printing a new gear cover that was lower profile. I have been unable to find the post.
[/quote]

Seems like it works with, 2.9mm 52t chainring, 2mm spacer and with 0.7mm filed of pinion gear plastic cover. Thicker spacer would need longer screws and the spider wouldn't be able to sit on a sprag clutch/one way bearing which would send all of the load to the M5 bolts.
 

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Headlight circuit? I tried to wier up my 6VDC LED headlight, and it seems like the headlight circuit has a current limiter.
48v 750W+LCD3 v0.190 FW.
My light draws about 1.5A @6VDC. When I connect it to the light circuit the light flashes, but will not stay lit. Does anyone know if there is a current limit on the headlight circuit? If yes what is it?
 
RicMcK said:
Headlight circuit? I tried to wier up my 6VDC LED headlight, and it seems like the headlight circuit has a current limiter.
48v 750W+LCD3 v0.190 FW.
My light draws about 1.5A @6VDC. When I connect it to the light circuit the light flashes, but will not stay lit. Does anyone know if there is a current limit on the headlight circuit? If yes what is it?
Yes, there is a specific IC:

XL7005: seems there are 2 of this ICs being used, one on top of the PCB and other under.
• 150KHz fixed frequency PWM buck (step-down) DC/DC converter, capable of driving a 0.4A
• Wide 5V to 80V Operation Voltage
• Output Adjustable from 1.25V to 20V
• over current protection function is built inside
 
RicMcK said:
Headlight circuit? I tried to wier up my 6VDC LED headlight, and it seems like the headlight circuit has a current limiter.
48v 750W+LCD3 v0.190 FW.
My light draws about 1.5A @6VDC. When I connect it to the light circuit the light flashes, but will not stay lit. Does anyone know if there is a current limit on the headlight circuit? If yes what is it?

My lights are currently drawing 3.0W. I saw people talking about a 1A limit, so perhaps 6W?

To casainho's point, the converter on paper is limited to 0.5A output. It might be able to do more that 0.5A without tripping at lower supply voltages and lower output voltages, but on paper limited to 3W output. Consider a FET as a switch assuming your light can use the high battery voltage
 
mctubster said:
RicMcK said:
Headlight circuit? I tried to wier up my 6VDC LED headlight, and it seems like the headlight circuit has a current limiter.
48v 750W+LCD3 v0.190 FW.
My light draws about 1.5A @6VDC. When I connect it to the light circuit the light flashes, but will not stay lit. Does anyone know if there is a current limit on the headlight circuit? If yes what is it?

My lights are currently drawing 3.0W. I saw people talking about a 1A limit, so perhaps 6W?

To casainho's point, the converter on paper is limited to 0.5A output. It might be able to do more that 0.5A without tripping at lower supply voltages and lower output voltages, but on paper limited to 3W output. Consider a FET as a switch assuming your light can use the high battery voltage

I connected a 60v to 12v dc/dc 10A converter...
DcDcConverter.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Converter-20V-60V-to-12V-10A-120W-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module/132336048116

to my 52v battery, and purchased 12 volt multi flash mode tail light...
Taillight.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6000LM-2-X-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-USB-Waterproof-Lamp-Bike-Bicycle-Headlight-Four-Mode/392172925525

and multi mode very bright flashing headlight...
1Headlight.jpg
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Waterproof-Red-LED-Warning-Hazard-Emergency-Beacon-Flash-Strobe-Signal-Light/264275640369

The headlight is USB so theoretically 5v, but works fine on 12 volt. Please test first with resistor in series to avoid the smoke escaping.

from Ebay.
 
emr said:
mctubster said:
RicMcK said:
Headlight circuit? I tried to wier up my 6VDC LED headlight, and it seems like the headlight circuit has a current limiter.
48v 750W+LCD3 v0.190 FW.
My light draws about 1.5A @6VDC. When I connect it to the light circuit the light flashes, but will not stay lit. Does anyone know if there is a current limit on the headlight circuit? If yes what is it?

My lights are currently drawing 3.0W. I saw people talking about a 1A limit, so perhaps 6W?

To casainho's point, the converter on paper is limited to 0.5A output. It might be able to do more that 0.5A without tripping at lower supply voltages and lower output voltages, but on paper limited to 3W output. Consider a FET as a switch assuming your light can use the high battery voltage

I connected a 60v to 12v dc/dc 10A converter...
DcDcConverter.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Converter-20V-60V-to-12V-10A-120W-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module/132336048116

to my 52v battery, and purchased 12 volt multi flash mode tail light...
Taillight.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6000LM-2-X-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-USB-Waterproof-Lamp-Bike-Bicycle-Headlight-Four-Mode/392172925525

and multi mode very bright flashing headlight...
1Headlight.jpg
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Waterproof-Red-LED-Warning-Hazard-Emergency-Beacon-Flash-Strobe-Signal-Light/264275640369

The headlight is USB so theoretically 5v, but works fine on 12 volt. Please test first with resistor in series to avoid the smoke escaping.

from Ebay.

Thanks the duel light is available via aliexpress. 😊 I think this is a better way solution to having a separate battery pack, and my original light
 
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