ICE Sprint 26 with BBSHD build. (recumbent trike)

Snurt

100 mW
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Messages
46
Location
Norway
I was just in the process of ordering a BBSHD from em3ev when i stumbled over a 2013 ICE Sprint 26 recumbent and i just fell in love with that weird bike.

I ended up ordering a BBSHD, an EggRider, a 14s9p e35 pack (52v30.6a triangle pack) and a Grin Satiator. My wallet is whimpering in a corner RN.

Huge tanks to em3ev for making this built a lot easier than expected, supplying several custom cables for free and being quick to help trough email!

Heres the original:
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Here is the test fitment of the BBSHD:
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Im on the process of drilling some holes in the handles to route cables and planing where to route and place stuff, at also seems that the Lekkie pedal arm i got makes the left pedal be further away from the frame for some reason, its not appealing to me.

Should i just remove the front gearing? im using it right now as a makeshift chainstay but i don't know if its needed, chain on these bikes is so long chainline should not be of any concern.

More pictures to come as i get the extensioncables i need and other misc parts in the mail.
 
Handlebars progress:

I bought a set of TerraCycle Mini BE Cockpit Mount that i drilled out to mount accessories to and route cables trough.

Right side with thumb throttle and EggRider display:
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Left side with stop switch, audible bell and soon to come light switch:
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Left and right side by side, doesn't look to shabby so far.
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Test fitting a battery bracket and some other doohickeys today, having some splendid weather to work in.

TerraCycle Universal Battery Mount that i fitted to the bendy part by using some cloth. Can also see the 1.2m long cable that was needed to reach the battery from the BBSHD.
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Here is a frame quick adjust that makes the chain length extremely forgiving. A pure comfort item.
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in the front i have 160mm disc brakes and a normal V-brake(rimbrake) on the rear wheel. Any ideas if i should upgrade brakes or not? and does anyone know of a good shifter that wil suit this build?

Shifter
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Front right brake
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Front left brake
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Rear Brake(on a park brake handle)
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I dig it. Any shots with the battery pack attached? How does it perform? Any desire for wider tires with more volume yet?

Edit: Just saw the second post was today, so not quite there yet :)
 
This is a nice trike.

I'd recommend keeping the front derailleur. Try doing 25 mph over a rough section of road where your trike gets hammered by potholes and see if the chain stays on. If it comes off, for sure you'll want the front derailleur as a chain stay, or at least SOME type of chain stay in its place.

Also, there are elastomer suspensions that ICE makes for its trikes, should you find that the trike is too unsafe when you push it to its limits or take it over rough roads.
 
Testfit of battery and measuring up if i can manage to fit a Topeak rack and trunkbag, they have a quick release system i quite like.
Charging it up fully for the first time to, going for the first ride as soon as it hits 100%.
2019-09-12_15.14.23.jpg
 
thundercamel said:
I dig it. Any shots with the battery pack attached? How does it perform? Any desire for wider tires with more volume yet?

Edit: Just saw the second post was today, so not quite there yet :)

Heres a couple extra shots of it with battery on it. Im hoping to make it look as clean as i can with the parts i have.
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The Toecutter said:
This is a nice trike.

I'd recommend keeping the front derailleur. Try doing 25 mph over a rough section of road where your trike gets hammered by potholes and see if the chain stays on. If it comes off, for sure you'll want the front derailleur as a chain stay, or at least SOME type of chain stay in its place.

Also, there are elastomer suspensions that ICE makes for its trikes, should you find that the trike is too unsafe when you push it to its limits or take it over rough roads.

25 mph is WAY over the speeds i am aiming for, dont want police attention. I emailed ICE and asked about going FS, it would be in the pricerange of 900usd.
I also ordered a chainstay from ebay, in hope of removing some clutter from the handlebars.
 
The Toecutter said:
This is a nice trike.

I'd recommend keeping the front derailleur. Try doing 25 mph over a rough section of road where your trike gets hammered by potholes and see if the chain stays on. If it comes off, for sure you'll want the front derailleur as a chain stay, or at least SOME type of chain stay in its place.

Also, there are elastomer suspensions that ICE makes for its trikes, should you find that the trike is too unsafe when you push it to its limits or take it over rough roads.

I have to correct myself, i just got back in from a long ride, and i did 45kmh(28mph) with the trailer behind me. It was rough even on paved road.
 
Is that your velomobile Toecutter? If so, do you have a build thread?

I don't mean to clog up this thread, but I've been searching for a while to find out whether any triple front derailleur can be set up with a chainring larger than 53T, and that one is 65!
 
thundercamel said:
Is that your velomobile Toecutter? If so, do you have a build thread?

That velomobile belongs to Orin Peters. I linked to that one because it is a design that will fit the OP's make of trike. Orin was able to reach more than 40 mph in it on flat ground at Battle Mountain, NV. There is no motor of any kind in it.

I do have one though. I was able to reach 35 mph on flat ground with the first shell, and I've been over 50 mph downhill. There's pictures/video in the link below:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66772&start=175#p1402653

I'm working on the next design iteration which will have greatly improved aerodynamics.

I don't mean to clog up this thread, but I've been searching for a while to find out whether any triple front derailleur can be set up with a chainring larger than 53T, and that one is 65!

You may need to install a front derailleur post extension of the proper diameter.

https://www.rei.com/product/700227/delta-cycle-alloy-stem-raiser
 
What I like about front boom mounting is people can't see the motor easily. So the normal "recumbent stare" you get is more satisfying when you are riding one up a hill faster than on a regular bike. :lol:
 
Aquakitty said:
What I like about front boom mounting is people can't see the motor easily. So the normal "recumbent stare" you get is more satisfying when you are riding one up a hill faster than on a regular bike. :lol:

And omg do people stare! I i knew that beforehand i wouldn't have bought that recumbent.
Im on a 36 tooth from cog(IIRC) so im not going to go superfast, i gave it 30amps for the first time today and called it a day when i reached 35kmt.

I also found this weird thingy in the garage today, i think its meant for a car steeringwheel, its a bluetooth remote that works.
Do you think hot glue wil hold it in place on the bikes handlebars?
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I was on a 35km ride yesterday and one thing i instantly missed was more range on my gears. If im to climb by my own power i need a lower gear and if im to speed down a long hill i would need a higher gear.

Anyone have any good options to recommend?

Right now i have a 26" wheel, 9 speed cassette with a 11 tooth smallest sprocket and a 36 tooth ring on the BBSHD.

Maybe i can change to a 10 speed with a wider range and a bigger ring on the BBSHD?
Is it maybe possible to built ones own double chainring in front?

I know so little about gears and such.
 
Update, started installing the shift sensor and the new rear rack and rackbag.
Instead of cutting original wire housing i opted to buy some "bling" wire instead.

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Propped up naked.
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Original twist gear shifter, vaseline intensive care.
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Recumbent done for today, now with 100% more JagWire and 100% more rackbag.
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OH NOES! WHA HAPPUN?!
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Snurt said:
I was on a 35km ride yesterday and one thing i instantly missed was more range on my gears. If im to climb by my own power i need a lower gear and if im to speed down a long hill i would need a higher gear.

Anyone have any good options to recommend?

I see five potential options that may or may not be workable:

1) *IF* your mid drive can accommodate it, install a front triple crank with a front derailleur and a shifter.

2) *IF* your mid drive can accommodate it, install a different sized sprocket and a Schlumpf drive.

3) Move the mid drive to the middle of the trike, install a triple crankset/front derailleur/shifter up front.

4) Install a jackshaft with a double or triple and derailleur/shifter set up in the middle of the trike.

5) Install a sprocket on the rear wheel where a disc brake would normally go and set the motor up to drive the rear wheel from the opposite side of the human powered drivetrain.

3, 4, and 5 are definitely possible, but won't be easy or cheap. 1 and 2 may not even be viable depending upon the specs of your mid drive, and 2 will be very expensive if it can be made to work.

This is one of the reasons why I'm set on a hub motor.
 
Right now the trike has a 36t chainring and a 11-32 cassette.
I see that Sunrace sells a cheap 11-40 cassette that fits and i have the old chainset with a 38t and a 52t ring on it. I can for fairly cheap convert to 38-52 chainring and 11-40 cassette.

I can also convert to 42t chainring and a 11-46 cassette for around the same money.
Anyone tried the 130 bcd adapter for bafang engines? Possible to attach two rings on it?
 
Snurt said:
Right now the trike has a 36t chainring and a 11-32 cassette.
I see that Sunrace sells a cheap 11-40 cassette that fits and i have the old chainset with a 38t and a 52t ring on it. I can for fairly cheap convert to 38-52 chainring and 11-40 cassette.

I can also convert to 42t chainring and a 11-46 cassette for around the same money.
Anyone tried the 130 bcd adapter for bafang engines? Possible to attach two rings on it?

Really just a matter of preference.

The 36T with the 11-40T in the rear would give you the shortest possible low gear of the three setups. That should allow you to climb almost any hill with the motor off.

If you do not have enough top-end speed with that 36T setup, and you don't mind installing a front shifter and derailleur, and if the motor setup can accommodate it, then add the 38-52 up front. There's not much difference between 38T and 36T so the hill climbing capability should be similar. If it is possible to make it work with your motor and you don't mind having a front derailleur, IMO this would be your best possible setup of the proposals you listed because it offers the widest possible gear range. You'll get low end gearing for hills with the motor off, and high end gearing for hauling ass at 40 mph with the motor on. As long as it can work with the motor, you can't go wrong, IMO.

If you are against the idea of having a front derailleur/gear set and/or it won't work with the motor, just go with the 42T up front and 11-46T rear. 42T front and 46T rear would still be close enough to a 36T or 38T front and 40T rear for an unassisted hill climbing gear. You'll lose some top end, but when pedaling with the motor off, it's better to have too short of a gearing system to go fast but still be able to climb hills than having to walk the trike up a hill because the gearing is not conducive to hill climbing.
 
Going for a 11-40 cassette since its a easy and straight upgrade(i hope). As you stated its more important to have low gears and rather accommodate higher gears options later on.

Have been re-doing the brakes, previous it had hydraulic discs up front and a V-brake parking brake in the back. The hydraulic hoses was way to short so it ended up limiting turn radius and snagging on screws and levers.

Converted it to mechanical brakes and i have the front brakes both connected to the left lever and the rear brake operated by the right lever and a old speed shifter under the seat. I also changed the rear brake from V-brake to disc.

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mounted a pair of Problem Solvers Cable Doubler's on the steering stem under the seat, use JagWire's elite link set to better manage the tight spaces and kinks. It also helps retain the bikes original folding capability.

A mistake i did was not noting that the bafang(wauxing?) brake levers are short pull and i ordered TRP Spyke's instead of Spyre's, Spyke calipers are meant for long pull levers if i understand it correctly.
 
I hate to bump my own tread. I cant find treads dedicated to the ASI BAC 800 so ill just ask here.
Wil the BAC 800 be a worthwhile upgrade to a BBSHD? Where does one order it? the ASI webpage says its out of stock.

Im looking to add a lighting system to the trike, can one run Supernova's 6V front and tail light of the ASI BAC 800's light out connector? How much power does the ASI BAC 800 controller supply on that 6v out? And can it be used with a EggRider to turn the light off and on?

Im also ogling that CYC X1 Pro, not looking for more power, just a more refined product. Has it come with torque sensing yet?

Any other ideas to refine my bike? deep rims for more aero or something?
 
Check out Captain Cogswell on UTube has done that upgrade and also did the cyc motor. Luna is developing an upgraded controller and I am holding out for them as I have the bbshd motor and it is quite powerful with the stock high power program they put in it, so the next step will be fine with this bbshd motor will be great at 72 volts with the new controller
 
I reached out to Luna about the upgraded controller there developing or trying to develop that would take place of the stock controller and supposed to handle up to 90 amps and still be internal this would be great if it was worked out I'm sure they're going to do a lot of testing before they release it the only thing I have on it so far is a quick posting on Facebook no development date has been issued or projected
 
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