Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

I am sorry if this question is answered in one of the 200 pages ahead, but I could not find it... My adaptto midi-e has blacked out and wont turn on. This is the short story:

*(not sure this part is connected to the problem now but...) I had a issue with hall sensor-errors always poping up when I changed to a gng mid motor. I swaped the hall sensord in the motor, and the same problem continued. I might have fibally found a weak soldier link behind the hall-connector on the harness to the adaptto... But never got to test this because the red power-on-switch cables broke off right outside the controller.

Then I stripped this cable it popped up two red cables in that wire. I picked the one it looked like had been the right one, but nothing happened. I then tryed the other (I believe I could see some very dim fast flickering in the screen for a short while) but no picture on screen... After pulling all my hear out I carefulle opened the controller to se if it was visible on the pcb which red cable was the right one for turning on. Funny thing is that on the inside, only one red lead came out of that cable. But my OHM meter tells me both red cables are connected to something, but not directly to each other.... Im lost... And my controller does not turn on. Please help 😥
 
The idea of using adaptto for a gng was the mistake... (this wise info is digged in this thread :p)

3 options.

- Buy a different controller, ride again your bike.... send for repair to adaptto and pray to get it back.

- buy a different controller and ride

- send back for repair and wait + ride next year
 
I just recently had my MaxE fixed and it took about 2 months. Total cost was about $265.....they had to replace 6 FET’s and one driver. Shipping is the killer!

Have no idea what went wrong...never got that answer. Since getting it back I’ve dialed back the power to 12 KW from 14.5 KW and lowered the charge rate to 8 amps. Works perfect just like it did before. Figured I’d try to protect it some.

Tom
 
i have some questions refarding adaptto regen....one setting is "amp correct" which i do not see in manual

another issue is i want more breaking mine is not enough even set at 42 amps....i have active and forced active both turned off....i BELIEVE I need to turn on active BUT reduce amps to protect battery but i am not sure?

thanks for any experts help
 
I can't remember for sure, but active will give more braking as it puts the wheel into a kind of reverse? It will heat up the motor more rapidly. The peak amps given back during regwn is very short, not sure you need to worry too much anout damaging battery.
 
i think you are correct sir!....but can you tell me what is the difference of NOT using active regen which uses motor as generator and active (which puts motor in reverse) as far as regen?....if it IS putting power to reverse is it still regenerating also?....

not sure i like the implications of all that...i just want more regenerating power.(i guess more amps on regen setting)..it seems to have diminished...do you know what could cause it to diminish?...perhaps that is where i need to start BEFORE I start monkeying about with the regen settings...you seem like you might know something and are the only one to reply to boot so any ideas you have I will consider...
 
korpin said:
i think you are correct sir!....but can you tell me what is the difference of NOT using active regen which uses motor as generator and active (which puts motor in reverse) as far as regen?....if it IS putting power to reverse is it still regenerating also?....
Click to expand...

I'm not certain but I'll go out on a limb and say that if it's using energy to force reverse while the wheel is spinning forward it's probably expending more energy than it's recovering.

I just want more regenerating power.(i guess more amps on regen setting)..it seems to have diminished...do you know what could cause it to diminish?
Click to expand...

Heat could be a factor. If the motor or controller are getting hot it may be dialing itself back out of self preservation.
 
korpin said:
i think you are correct sir!....but can you tell me what is the difference of NOT using active regen which uses motor as generator and active (which puts motor in reverse) as far as regen?....if it IS putting power to reverse is it still regenerating also?....

not sure i like the implications of all that...i just want more regenerating power.(i guess more amps on regen setting)..it seems to have diminished...do you know what could cause it to diminish?...perhaps that is where i need to start BEFORE I start monkeying about with the regen settings...you seem like you might know something and are the only one to reply to boot so any ideas you have I will consider...
Click to expand...

Active regen should be called active breaking... regen 'regenerates' energy and puts it back in to the batteries, slowing the bike as it does. Active breaking (the phenomenon formally kown as active regen :p :p ) uses energy from the battery to slow/stop the wheel. It only works in the last little bit of speed, below ~5km'h but it will generate a little heat and use a little energy in the process.

if you need more breaking power then yes, up the regen amps both in the power settings (ph amps) and the max renen battery current in the advanced settings. just be careful to set max battery voltages and not exceed your batteries C ratings in doing so.

IE I have my 26ah lipos set with 30A max regen (could be more but its enough) and 250phA set for regen breaking in my power settings.
 
I bought used Adaptto Midi controllers, but the cables at the connectors are too short. Where do I get them ?
 
ok. with an other Display all ok with the Conector. i think, inside the Display is the Problem.
 
i look Inside, but the Cable are ok. checked from plug to board, everything ok. there can only be something defective on the LCD board.
 

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Check the black connector along the wire on the display that have problem with throttle, I had problems with throttle ad removed that connector at all.
 
I found the mistake. The cables were fine. There is an error in the configuration. The basic voltage of the Trottle was at 0 V, but actually 0.9 V are present. This is set and it works as expected.
 
one Question more. For a 2WD System need i an spezail Cable on the Slave Controller. this should also be attached to the controller. If it is soldered to the controller board or how to fix the 4 cables.
 
I asked you a different question. Can I use the BMS connection on the slave controller as a connection to the master?
There I do not need to attach an additional connection to the slave. The communication between both controllers is done via Can, or ?
 
Do you have to solder the BMS-connectors or is there any other solution? Looks scary to solder these small points.

I use the connectors today but they are a bit loose. Not so reliable? Today when I charged the bike at the end I had 4,5V on one och 0V on one paralell. I got a bit scared I had over voltage cells and other was dead but it was only the bms connector that was bad. I wiggled the connector but still 0V, the pulled it in and out and then it was fine again. Have worked for 1-2 years before this.

A628C549-DD51-4EBB-9F6F-B477E86FC72A.jpeg
 
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