E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hey Pipanight,

I might be able to help you. I have a number of pending Bomber battery jobs so should be able to order in all the cells together, but it might take me a bit longer than usual to get it made.
Have a look at my custom battery sales thread to get an idea.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=101045

Cheers

Morning Guy’s, can anyone point me in the right direction for a 100a / 200a burst BMS.

Thanks in advance.

https://www.silive.com/news/2019/09/e-bike-rider-critical-following-crash-in-new-springville.html

Looks like one of you guys are down.

OK guys
just for interest, QUEEN battery did a very quick turnaround on 220 Lg-MJ1-18650-3500mAh cells for my bomber battery build.

It was possible once i had the cells to make an extra row of cells if i ditched the cell holders however it would have been very tight to the side covers and and of the day another 22 cells would add another 270Wh ontop of nearly 2.7kWh anyway.

a 21x6(wide) arrangement was possible without staggering the cells and pack would have ended up a little shorter.
The extra little bit of length is manageable. should be enough space to fit inside the original battery packing materials including the BMS sitting ontop.

My plan is to solder the cells using Solar panel bus bar which is 0.3mm thich copper which has been tinned. This will carry heaps more grunt than 0.15mm pure nickel strap.

config 22S10P not all that complicated but if anyone has a better idea to the layout im all ears.
PPTC fuses on their way for balance wires

Welcome comments

This is me riding off road through the jungle. In some places you can actually see some dirt on the trail.

[youtube]a4dPZXoY4O8[/youtube]

KarlJ said:

Welcome comments

Click to expand...

Don't solder 18650's.
Instead layer up the nickel like I did here:
https://youtu.be/UeBk4JxM3rw

The 7 wide layout has worked well for me on several Stealth frames now...I would not say it's too wide, just needs minimal padding.

Otherwise, looks like you've got a good plan, let us know the outcome.

Cheers

My Fighter frame finally arrived back from Stealth today.

Here's what it looked like before sending off:



And now Stealth have honoured their warranty and fixed it up. They even added reinforcements I'm guessing comes standard now on new frames:


The area's that were cracking have welds added and I don't think I'll see those issues again.


While I went to the hassle, I also forked out some coin to have the rear swing-arm re powder coated and new bearings put in the pivot. It looks like the rear shock mount now has a large reinforcement plate also.


Now I need to cleanup the rest of the bike to bring it up to standard with this clean frame. :lol:

Cheers

1st Ride of my bomber with a battery that works!!!!!!!!

Battery build a great success -If I do say so myself
, 22S10P was a piece of cake to build I picked the LG MJ1-3500mAh cells . - they got a better review than the 35E Samsung's at least according to youtube.
they recommend not more than 0.5C Charge and 10A discharge making them more than capable for a ~7A peak draw @10P assuming 70A demand from the stock controller.
process i used was scotchbrite the tops of the cells and tin each with solder.
I used solar panel bus strip 0.2mm tinned copper 5mm wide which according to this table
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=248217&mode=view
will support 3x the current of 8mm wide 0.15mm pure nickel, straps across all the cells so they all contribute the same and add a little more current carrying capacity.
was very easy with an 80W Iron and made for a couple of hours work with a beer after dinner.
I built as 2x11S10P bricks and joined them with double layer bus strips at the end, used kapton tape x2layers over each and utilitsed the sticky foam that came on the original pack in between. (just folded one pack ontop of the other so the pos and neg end up same end.

Sans BMS until it arrives.....all the cells were the same Voltage at 3.6V out of the boxes I used Queenbattery (china) which took around a week to arrive (very happy with that and the cells cost + $160USD in shipping. for $1057 total AUD)
SAMSUNG 18650 35E price :2.30usd/pcs
LG 18650 MJ1 price ;2.25usd/pcs
SANYO 18650 GA price :2.85usd/pcs
SANYO 18650 GA price :2.85usd/pcs -
from the time it takes to charge and the CA, I can't complain, first ride saw just a couple of volts sag under full throttle making ~6000+W when I left home down to around 5300W by the time it was down to 80V.
Note that I only charged to ~86V for the first charge and monitoring cell voltages to ensure nothing gets out of hand.

20kms for 1kwh used obviously i'm fat and unfit - hilly around here too - I'm in Diamond creek.

Stock charger can be turned up and down may drill a hole in the top cover so I can adjust more readily.
4.1VPC allows for better pack life and i dont think i'll be needing to run them up to 4.2V for anything other than the occasional balance.

Now charging for a big ride tomorrow to get some more kms under the belt.

Next pack will be 22S12P - can fit the extra 22 if glued vs cell holders and another 24 will sit ontop and still fit in the frame opening.

BMS I picked has a screen, bluetooth and supports 150A continuous, if it doesnt fit in the top part of the frame i'll need to trim down the foam on the bottom of the battery bay 2.5cm according to the brochure....

Look forward to some adventures on this machine!

Karl

Anyone have any drama melting the original motor?
Do they connect the temp sensor and have power roll back stock?
Motor seems to get very hot 20 mins post ride it’s still too hot to hold hand on it more than a second so I make that >70dec C

depends on what year you have. mine had a temp sensor but it was not hooked up. air/oil cooling is your friend...

Measuring temperatures by hand isn't very accurate. The hottest I've seen my motor get is about 137 degrees f (58.33c) measured with an infrared thermometer. I ride most of the time in a hot Texas environment usually in the upper 90s. I don't consider 137 particularly hot for an electric motor with this much power.

Lately I was thinking my controller was getting pretty warm too, but when I measured it's temp, it was only about 107 degrees f (41.66c) which isn't really all that hot for a controller.

Man, I love that silent magnetic feel of a big honkin hubby.

Now that my fabulous forks work so good, and my rear shock works so good, and my new battery works so good, I guess I need to upgrade by brakes.

I'm thinking the new black and red MT8. What's wrong with that, anything? I just need to save up a little more money, like about $340.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Magura-MT8-Carbotecture-Carbon-Disc-Brakes-FL-RR-Brake-Set-w-Storm-SL-Rotors/283469957602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Theodore Voltaire said:

Now that my fabulous forks work so good, and my rear shock works so good, and my new battery works so good, I guess I need to upgrade by brakes.

I'm thinking the new black and red MT8. What's wrong with that, anything? I just need to save up a little more money, like about $340.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Magura-MT8-Carbotecture-Carbon-Disc-Brakes-FL-RR-Brake-Set-w-Storm-SL-Rotors/283469957602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Click to expand...

Anything you can attach streamers too will work :lol:

KarlJ said:

Anyone have any drama melting the original motor?
Do they connect the temp sensor and have power roll back stock?
Motor seems to get very hot 20 mins post ride it’s still too hot to hold hand on it more than a second so I make that >70dec C

Click to expand...

If you smoked at 5403, you must have been climbing steep stuff WOT until the battery was dead. With the stock Bomber settings, I couldn't smoke a 54xx motor. I tried once by riding in deep sand.

Theodore Voltaire said:

Now that my fabulous forks work so good, and my rear shock works so good, and my new battery works so good, I guess I need to upgrade by brakes.

I'm thinking the new black and red MT8. What's wrong with that, anything? I just need to save up a little more money, like about $340.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Magura-MT8-Carbotecture-Carbon-Disc-Brakes-FL-RR-Brake-Set-w-Storm-SL-Rotors/283469957602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Click to expand...

the dual piston mt8's may not be enough power for a heavy bomber, however I have no experience with them.
If you're in the market for brakes i'd recommend going all out and making the big purchase of hope tech 3 v4's. There's a reason so many people run them, They have incredibly sturdy brake feel, will outlast any plastic brakes in a crash, they have all the stopping power you ever need, and excellent lever feel. Plus having them in a colour to match your bike is nice.
The brakes are also very modular, meaning if you break a lever you can just buy a new lever. If you go for the hope's you won't regret it. - I love mine.
Also if you get them, switch the sintered pads in straight away (they come with the brakes and are the gold coloured back plate pads). You can also get finned pads for them from uberbike

Edit*
I will concede though that the carbon mt8's are some of the coolest looking brakes, it looks like something off a lambo...

Cowardlyduck said:

My Fighter frame finally arrived back from Stealth today.



Now I need to cleanup the rest of the bike to bring it up to standard with this clean frame. :lol:

Cheers

Click to expand...

Not surprised Stealth not only honored your warranty, but improved on your fame in the process. I have been dealing with Stealth as long as you have, on my fifth bike from them, not including 2 alphas and a beta frame. They have always stood by without questions. John Karambalis, Diane, Joe, and Luke are really great people.

Ok so now onto really dumb noob questions
What are people using to prevent flat tyres?

What is the size of the Allen key to undo the front axle.

Anything to look out for when changing the tyres?
I bought a pair of street tyres off stealth but they look pretty piss poor in terms of puncture resistance and look like they will last all of 4 weeks

Last but not least..... will the stock controller run 24S 18650s? Can add another 20 cells ontop and as long as stock controller can support the 99v we’re sweet.

I would like the regen to work above 80V but hey is what it is

One more one more!!! What size is the seat post as mine is carbon and stuck so i’ll Need a new one before I start smashing it out (need to sit at least 3” higher as legs not stretching out enough)

\\ (•◡•) / said:

the dual piston mt8's may not be enough power for a heavy bomber, however I have no experience with them.
If you're in the market for brakes i'd recommend going all out and making the big purchase of hope tech 3 v4's. There's a reason so many people run them, They have incredibly sturdy brake feel, will outlast any plastic brakes in a crash, they have all the stopping power you ever need, and excellent lever feel. Plus having them in a colour to match your bike is nice.
The brakes are also very modular, meaning if you break a lever you can just buy a new lever. If you go for the hope's you won't regret it. - I love mine.
Also if you get them, switch the sintered pads in straight away (they come with the brakes and are the gold coloured back plate pads). You can also get finned pads for them from uberbike

Edit*
I will concede though that the carbon mt8's are some of the coolest looking brakes, it looks like something off a lambo...

Click to expand...

Thanks, I appreciate your recommendation. I've done a little research on Hope brakes, and they are pretty impressive. I have no doubt they're great brakes. I like the different colors they come in too. I'm going to consider them. Another brake high on my list are Shimano XT.

Honestly after sampling Magura mt2, and mt5 brakes I'm not that impressed with Magura, but one advantage they have in this case is all I would need to do to install the rear brake is to unscrew the caliper, and screw the new one onto the same brake hose.

Rix has me figured out though, it's not all about raw braking power. How they look with streamers takes preeminence over most other considerations.

My rear brake was making noise. I guess that's normal when all the pad is gone, and it's just the back plate scraping on the disk.

Check out what material the pads are made of as well. There is quite a difference between the organic and sintered. If your doing big downhill the sintered are better but if your doing wet maybe organic is better. Mine are sintered and I notice the difference in stopping power for sure.

I may have just solved all my braking troubles with new pads. I think the cheap ass pads I've been buying for a few years were the problem. These are the new ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pairs-High-Quality-Bicycle-Disc-Brake-Pads-For-Magura-MT2-MT4-MT6-MT8-DK-17/152952367953?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Since I probably won't need new brakes anymore, this is going to be my next victim. Up for pedaling, down for speed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Fox-Shox-Transfer-Performance-Series-Bicycle-Seat-Post-Internal-Mountain/303017813986?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=601953304840&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Theodore Voltaire said:

Since I probably won't need new brakes anymore, this is going to be my next victim. Up for pedaling, down for speed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Fox-Shox-Transfer-Performance-Series-Bicycle-Seat-Post-Internal-Mountain/303017813986?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=601953304840&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Click to expand...

I love dropper seat posts, you will wonder how you got along with out it. Get the shortest one though. Can't chop the bottom of them to shorten.

what size is the stock post? Mine has a carbon one and its stuck hence i'll have to cut / chisel it out and replace.