E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

KarlJ said:
what size is the stock post? Mine has a carbon one and its stuck hence i'll have to cut / chisel it out and replace.

31.8mm is the diameter. It maybe 31.6mm, now I cant remember what I mic'd it at.
 
Rix said:
I love dropper seat posts, you will wonder how you got along with out it. Get the shortest one though. Can't chop the bottom of them to shorten.

I'm with you about a short post. Fox offers the shortest one I've seen, which is 4". Even on the rare occasions when I lift my seat to pedal, I only raise it 3 or 4".

I'm preparing a list of excuses, I mean important reasons, to justify why I need a to spend over $300 on a seat post, for the supreme ruler, buffy.
 
Rix said:
KarlJ said:
what size is the stock post? Mine has a carbon one and its stuck hence i'll have to cut / chisel it out and replace.

31.8mm is the diameter. It maybe 31.6mm, now I cant remember what I mic'd it at.

Mine measures 31.6mm which I think is about the biggest diameter.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Rix said:
I love dropper seat posts, you will wonder how you got along with out it. Get the shortest one though. Can't chop the bottom of them to shorten.

I'm with you about a short post. Fox offers the shortest one I've seen, which is 4". Even on the rare occasions when I lift my seat to pedal, I only raise it 3 or 4".

I'm preparing a list of excuses, I mean important reasons, to justify why I need a to spend over $300 on a seat post, for the supreme ruler, buffy.

This is the shortest dropper out there for our bikes size at 80mm or just over 3". https://www.jensonusa.com/KS-LEV-Dropper-Seatpost-2019-Blk-80mm-Travel-309mm-295mm-Length-External?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0qzp_oXg5AIVgSCtBh2SwAEXEAQYBCABEgLki_D_BwE
 
Thanks Rix, that looks like a real good one, but too late for this project. I already ordered a Fox 4" external one on eBay, plus a $50 Fox remote lever. Apprently for $300 you don't get no stinkin lever, or a cable, that's extra.

It gets good reviews though, and I have a lot of room under the seat tube because my shock doesn't have a remote reservoir. I'll be able to push the post all the way down. As a matter of fact I need the post to be sticking out below the frame tube, because my taillight is hardwired, and right now it's mounted under the seat. I'll need to relocate it somewhere else, and I'm planning to use the lower part of the seat post that'll be sticking out down there.
 
And one other thing is, Fox wants it to work equally good to, looking too sexy for your shirt. Of course we all know I'm not into looks that much, but some people are. :wink:
 
whats wrong with a quick release clamp $12 and 300mm seat post for all of $15?

Slimed up my tubes today -YAY #cheapinsurance vs Crazybob thin shit bring on punctures tyres.

Real pity you cant get a continental travelcontact in 24" wheel.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Thanks Rix, that looks like a real good one, but too late for this project. I already ordered a Fox 4" external one on eBay, plus a $50 Fox remote lever. Apprently for $300 you don't get no stinkin lever, or a cable, that's extra.

It gets good reviews though, and I have a lot of room under the seat tube because my shock doesn't have a remote reservoir. I'll be able to push the post all the way down. As a matter of fact I need the post to be sticking out below the frame tube, because my taillight is hardwired, and right now it's mounted under the seat. I'll need to relocate it somewhere else, and I'm planning to use the lower part of the seat post that'll be sticking out down there.

I got one and really like it. It comes complete.
 
So went to take the bomber for a ride the other day and there was no power when I turned the key. CA display was blank. Battery is half charged.

I decided to try and charge it but when I connect it to the charger the fan runs for about 3 seconds then turns off. The red power light is on and the green charged light is also on. I know it’s not fully charged.

I opened up the side panel and noticed that the red thin wire that loops in and out of the CA was cut. Don’t know if it was like that previously though.

Sorry for the blurry pics.

b655d707da5d69b08f6491c3c8fa9ee3.jpg
11bbcd9a5699b7427b55fa566c4b69db.jpg
5520fa81706e4814f34da59dba9ad079.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So that red wire that was cut has nothing to do with the charging. The cut red wire just unrestricted the power. Most likely your XLR plug on the bike is melted. Some where between page 130 and 250 in this thread, I posted a pic of what mine looked like. I had to change to Anderson units to get my charger to work.
 
Rix said:
Tech question for everyone. Back from a ride, burned 1391 watts. Went to charge the battery, and the charger would shut off after a couple of seconds. Popped off the cover on the frame, and while I was checking the battery charge wires to make sure it was plugged in, the charger started charger. So I was wiggling the charging wires around and discoverd I had a short coming out of the frame mounted 3 prong plug, looks like the mircophone plugs on my dads Peavey Amplifiers. So as I am wiggling wires connected to the frame mounted plug, the charger kept going on and off. So I unscrewed the 2mm allen bolts, pulled the plug out of the frame, cut the heat shrink, and holy shit, the plastic connectors was melted. I think its a simple fix. I want to wire the connectors to the battery directly to the charger. Problem is, the charger wires are not colored red and black wires, it has blue and tanish almost yellowish wires. The tanish yellowish wire plug into the the #1 prong post, and the blue plugs into the #2 prong post. #3 doesn't have nothing. Does anybody know which wire between the blue and tanish/yellowish wire is positive. I have alot of my tools and stuff in a rent a storage and don't have access to my test light. What my intentions are is to just wire the plug connecor directly to the charger and charge that way. Got a friend coming in from Austalia and got to get this up and going by Wednesday morning for a ride in Yosemite. Any and all advise is appreciated.

Rick

RhombusB52, above is my original post. See pics here. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=3650
 
Rix said:
So that red wire that was cut has nothing to do with the charging. The cut red wire just unrestricted the power. Most likely your XLR plug on the bike is melted. Some where between page 150 and 250 in this thread, I posted a pic of what mine looked like. I had to change to Anderson units to get my charger to work.

Thanks for your quick reply Rix.

I’ll have a look into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Rix said:
Rix said:
Tech question for everyone. Back from a ride, burned 1391 watts. Went to charge the battery, and the charger would shut off after a couple of seconds. Popped off the cover on the frame, and while I was checking the battery charge wires to make sure it was plugged in, the charger started charger. So I was wiggling the charging wires around and discoverd I had a short coming out of the frame mounted 3 prong plug, looks like the mircophone plugs on my dads Peavey Amplifiers. So as I am wiggling wires connected to the frame mounted plug, the charger kept going on and off. So I unscrewed the 2mm allen bolts, pulled the plug out of the frame, cut the heat shrink, and holy shit, the plastic connectors was melted. I think its a simple fix. I want to wire the connectors to the battery directly to the charger. Problem is, the charger wires are not colored red and black wires, it has blue and tanish almost yellowish wires. The tanish yellowish wire plug into the the #1 prong post, and the blue plugs into the #2 prong post. #3 doesn't have nothing. Does anybody know which wire between the blue and tanish/yellowish wire is positive. I have alot of my tools and stuff in a rent a storage and don't have access to my test light. What my intentions are is to just wire the plug connecor directly to the charger and charge that way. Got a friend coming in from Austalia and got to get this up and going by Wednesday morning for a ride in Yosemite. Any and all advise is appreciated.

Rick

RhombusB52, above is my original post. See pics here. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=3650

Thanks for all the info Rix.

I’ll open the cover and check it out.


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Theodore Voltaire said:
I may have just solved all my braking troubles with new pads. I think the cheap ass pads I've been buying for a few years were the problem. These are the new ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pairs-High-Quality-Bicycle-Disc-Brake-Pads-For-Magura-MT2-MT4-MT6-MT8-DK-17/152952367953?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanking you!
 
KarlJ said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Lalalalala, I love my bike, I love my bike, I like my bike, I love my bike, I love my bike,

Where can i get those mudguards?

They're sort of a custom install. They're offered by Electra Bicycles, which has been bought out by Trek, but it looks like they're still going to be available. You'll have to fabricate custom mounts.

The front came from this set.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-racks-fenders-locks/bike-fenders-accessories/bike-fenders/electra-mens-cruiser-stubby-26-fender-set/p/23042/?colorCode=black

I cut the rear down from this set. You can use the rear fender that comes with the first set if you'd rather, but it's even shorter than mine.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-racks-fenders-locks/bike-fenders-accessories/bike-fenders/electra-mens-cruiser-26-fender-set/p/23043/?colorCode=black

The mounts are pretty easy to fabricate. If you get that far and need help I'll give you more details about how to make them.
 
Here's an exclusive, just for us, first look from inside the secretive biknut skunk works of my new Fox Dropper external 4" seat post. Not fully installed yet, lacking the cable, and lever. This is all the way down. Not quite as low as I would like, but haven't tried it yet. I don't think you could use this post with a stock shock with remote reservoir, without the post sitting very high in the frame. The one in Rix link would definitely fit better, and best as I can tell, I'm not going to be able to use the full 4" lift with the seat sitting this high when it's all the way down.

20190925-140902.jpg
 
This is what I've accomplished after all day. This taillight bracket only cost me about 0.34 cents to make, not counting the rejects, but if you want me to make you one it'll cost you $750. :eek:

Taillight-bracket.jpg
 
Before and after look at my taillight mounting, and dropper seat post. All other things being the same, the seat now sits 3" higher in the saddle than before when all the way down. I can still touch both feet down at once, but it's only because my big fat a$s squashes the shock down enough to do it. It's uncomfortable though. One foot down is comfortable. Still haven't attached the cable yet, but it feels like I'll only need about 2" of the 4" of lift.

sp-crop-xomparo.jpg
 
I finally finished installing my dropper seat post. I haven't actually ridden with it functioning yet, but I rode about 20 miles with it all the way down. Being 3" higher feels different to me, but I think I can get used to it.

I ran the cable through the frame, but I used an external seat post to do it. The cable is out of the way, and looks pretty clean from the rear. The front was always a mess.

cable-rear.jpg


This is the other end of the cable. You have to cut it to length.

lever.jpg


It's hard to see much difference from the front, it was already such a mess anyway.

cable-front.jpg
 
I rode around a little bit just now testing the seat in different positions. Just like reviewers say, it's very easy to control the speed of the up, and down on the fly. It feels like a hydraulic office chair. If you unweight your butt a little bit, the seat helps you up. With your weight on the seat, it's easy to control the downward speed, and height. Slow, or fast, it's up to you. There is a tiny bit of side to side rotation, but it's barely noticeable riding.

The seat all the way up is a little too high for me. Down about an inch is perfect pedal geometry, which means there's about 3" of travel I can use realistically. Now I can pedal hard without killing my knees, and still be able to drop down out of the clouds for stops, and dismounts. I think this would be a popular option if Stealth offered these for new bikes.

The only thing that's not perfect, is that the lowest seat height is about 2 inches higher than I would like. I'm going to have to try to get used to that. One thing this seat post has is a, high snotty snoot factor, so there's that.
 
I rode downtown last night to the critical mass ride. 40 miles round trip, not including about 10 miles on the train. Everyone was real entertained by my moveable seat. I'm getting pretty good at working it already, but when it's up, I got to remember to drop it down before I come to a stop, or it gets interesting. I'm noticing that my knees aren't sore today.
 
Super cool Theo.....since I’m 6’4” tall I find I could really use the extra height of a dropper seat post and, of course the prestige!

Cool posts!

Tom
 
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