parabellum
1 MW
Anet A8 kit USD170. 220x220x240
World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!
- Thread starter nechaus
- Start date
whereswally606
100 kW
+1
but get a e3d or clone hotend and a Bowden extruder. plus Skynet v2 auto leveling with an induction sensor. makes it print much better and easier to sort out clogged hotends.
parabellum said:
but get a e3d or clone hotend and a Bowden extruder. plus Skynet v2 auto leveling with an induction sensor. makes it print much better and easier to sort out clogged hotends.
Alan B
100 GW
There are many "bargain priced" printers out there that become "projects" and require upgrades and require more expertise to get them going and keep them working well. These are not good "first" printers. New users often purchase these to save money and end up becoming disenchanted with 3D printing.
Choose wisely. There are many reviews on utube and elsewhere.
Choose wisely. There are many reviews on utube and elsewhere.
Here, a guy cuts 1/4-inch thick plywood with a 3D printer. By attaching a "Dremel-like" tool, and using a high-speed bit, he was able to easily cut plywood. As a demonstration, he cuts a square out of the 1/4-inch plywood, and the cutting bit makes several passes in the same shape to cut away another layer with each pass.
I recall Grinhill cut aluminum sheet with a router, and he said you need a high-speed cutting bit, and a slow feed rate, but when doing that, there were no issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot_ATLvjAzE
[youtube]Ot_ATLvjAzE[/youtube]
I recall Grinhill cut aluminum sheet with a router, and he said you need a high-speed cutting bit, and a slow feed rate, but when doing that, there were no issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot_ATLvjAzE
[youtube]Ot_ATLvjAzE[/youtube]
Alan B
100 GW
I watched the cutting a motor mount video a couple days ago.
The majority of 3D printers (especially low cost) are not very "stiff" because they don't need to be. CNC machining generates recoil forces that are problematic as they require more machine stiffness. The chips generated are also problematic for the moving parts, many of which are not really designed to contend with them. The particular 3D printer he is using (hypercube) appears to have thicker rods than usual (for more stiffness) and is very open so the sawdust won't collect. but it will float all over the room (a dust management system is needed).
Acrylic and Aluminum require even more stiffness (than plywood).
More suitable for 3D machines are the diode laser modules. These are good for engraving and cutting of certain materials. The smoke generated needs to be controlled, and the possible reflections of the laser are an eye hazard that needs to be addressed.
If you want to have a DIY machine that is good for a number of different tasks including 3D printing, spindle engraving and cutting, laser engraving and cutting, plus more take a look at the https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/ . I have no direct experience with this machine but am collecting parts for it, I plan to use it as a small CNC router. It can be built whatever size you want, but the smaller it is the stiffer it will be.
I just did a minor overhaul of my Lulzbot Mini with the modular heated bed upgrade. This makes it easy to remove the printbed (PEI on glass) as the heater is bonded to a metal sheet that spreads the heat and conducts it to the glass but allows the glass to be easily removed when needed. At the same time I worked on the Z probe intermittency issue and cycled some connections there. So far the Z probe has worked 100% since, but we'll have to do more testing to see if it is actually improved.
My other 3D printer, a Prusa i3 mk3 has been excellent, that is a great machine. Very consistent and never a problem with the inductive Z probe. I particularly like the flexible printbed that is held magnetically, just tip it off and flex it to remove parts, we never have to scrape that, and it has PEI on both sides so we get two surfaces for the price of one.
Recently I tested the heat-set threaded brass inserts, these are a really nice way to add real machine threads to your 3D printed part. They melt right in with a special soldering pencil tip (or even a standard one can work) and are designed with knurls to really grab the plastic.
The majority of 3D printers (especially low cost) are not very "stiff" because they don't need to be. CNC machining generates recoil forces that are problematic as they require more machine stiffness. The chips generated are also problematic for the moving parts, many of which are not really designed to contend with them. The particular 3D printer he is using (hypercube) appears to have thicker rods than usual (for more stiffness) and is very open so the sawdust won't collect. but it will float all over the room (a dust management system is needed).
Acrylic and Aluminum require even more stiffness (than plywood).
More suitable for 3D machines are the diode laser modules. These are good for engraving and cutting of certain materials. The smoke generated needs to be controlled, and the possible reflections of the laser are an eye hazard that needs to be addressed.
If you want to have a DIY machine that is good for a number of different tasks including 3D printing, spindle engraving and cutting, laser engraving and cutting, plus more take a look at the https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/ . I have no direct experience with this machine but am collecting parts for it, I plan to use it as a small CNC router. It can be built whatever size you want, but the smaller it is the stiffer it will be.
I just did a minor overhaul of my Lulzbot Mini with the modular heated bed upgrade. This makes it easy to remove the printbed (PEI on glass) as the heater is bonded to a metal sheet that spreads the heat and conducts it to the glass but allows the glass to be easily removed when needed. At the same time I worked on the Z probe intermittency issue and cycled some connections there. So far the Z probe has worked 100% since, but we'll have to do more testing to see if it is actually improved.
My other 3D printer, a Prusa i3 mk3 has been excellent, that is a great machine. Very consistent and never a problem with the inductive Z probe. I particularly like the flexible printbed that is held magnetically, just tip it off and flex it to remove parts, we never have to scrape that, and it has PEI on both sides so we get two surfaces for the price of one.
Recently I tested the heat-set threaded brass inserts, these are a really nice way to add real machine threads to your 3D printed part. They melt right in with a special soldering pencil tip (or even a standard one can work) and are designed with knurls to really grab the plastic.
Alan B
100 GW
Dual filament can be useful, is a bit more advanced and can be troublesome. They cost more and the second printhead reduces the print volume.
markz
100 TW
There are different type of people, the ones that get a computer/games, the ones that get a 3d printer and jump for joy, the ones that get an Arduino/Raspberry Pi, and the ones that get a welder/pipe bender. I could think of a few things to print on that 3d printer, same with a welder. Could make money with either!
Alan B
100 GW
3D printers are fantastic tools. Best if you have an eye for design, minute detail and CAD. Designing for 3D printing requires understanding how the process interacts with the design and materials.
Single printhead multicolor printers are not without their own problems. Best to start simple and build the skills first. Lots to learn.
You can make money with them, most people don't succeed at that. It's a tool. It doesn't make money on it's own.
Single printhead multicolor printers are not without their own problems. Best to start simple and build the skills first. Lots to learn.
You can make money with them, most people don't succeed at that. It's a tool. It doesn't make money on it's own.
captain387
100 W
Hi Everyone,
Any updated advice on <$500 3d printers and software?
Thanks
Jeremy
Any updated advice on <$500 3d printers and software?
Thanks
Jeremy
Alan B
100 GW
Lots of good choices out there these days. Depends on how much you want to fiddle with and upgrade a cheap one, or whether you want to buy one that is solid out of the box, whether you want one pre-built or a kit or a box of parts. Whether you want one that violates open source agreements or follows the rules and shares improvements they make.
Quite a few yewtube channels review 3D printers, that's probably the best place to learn what's the latest.
I'm really enjoying the Prusa MK3, but it's a bit out of your price range. The Prusa Mark 2 might be under $500, I haven't followed the prices lately.
Going cheaper the only vendor I am aware is attempting to follow open source agreements (releasing the code they modify) is Creality. They have a number of models that are popular and under $500.
Most of the software is free and getting very good, Simplify 3D is not free but no longer has much advantage over the free stuff, probably best to use whatever the printer vendor supports which these days is Cura or Prusa Slicer for most vendors.
On the design side many people prefer Fusion 360 which is an expensive complicated package that has some free licensing options at the moment, I prefer to use OpenSCAD or FreeCAD so a change in licensing won't change my workflow.
Quite a few yewtube channels review 3D printers, that's probably the best place to learn what's the latest.
I'm really enjoying the Prusa MK3, but it's a bit out of your price range. The Prusa Mark 2 might be under $500, I haven't followed the prices lately.
Going cheaper the only vendor I am aware is attempting to follow open source agreements (releasing the code they modify) is Creality. They have a number of models that are popular and under $500.
Most of the software is free and getting very good, Simplify 3D is not free but no longer has much advantage over the free stuff, probably best to use whatever the printer vendor supports which these days is Cura or Prusa Slicer for most vendors.
On the design side many people prefer Fusion 360 which is an expensive complicated package that has some free licensing options at the moment, I prefer to use OpenSCAD or FreeCAD so a change in licensing won't change my workflow.
captain387
100 W
Thank you for all the great information, looking for less fiddly at this point.
I will start down the road of youtube videos, may set myself up for a few weeks of watching reviews but at least the field is narrowed. I did watch the Prusa factory video which was pretty neat seeing all the machines working away building parts for the new printers.
My local library has two Prusa MK3 which I had the safety training on and printed a little key tag as part of the training. It was a pretty slick machine and worked very well. I will be able to print at the library but the program hasn't launched officially and there are booking time limits of 1 hour...not much you can print in that time frame, and I assume the demand will be high.
I found out today that a co-worker has a Creality CR20 and has had good luck with it, and uses Cura. He had recommended it as it has worked really well for him, so its good to see you mention it as well (also the opensource aspect is something I may not have come across myself, but knew Endless-sphere would provide these side details one would not think about :thumb: )
I will check out those programs, I do have AutoCAD 2008 and it does spit out .stl files but I'm sure the new software would be a lot more user friendly.
Thanks for the help!
I will start down the road of youtube videos, may set myself up for a few weeks of watching reviews but at least the field is narrowed. I did watch the Prusa factory video which was pretty neat seeing all the machines working away building parts for the new printers.
My local library has two Prusa MK3 which I had the safety training on and printed a little key tag as part of the training. It was a pretty slick machine and worked very well. I will be able to print at the library but the program hasn't launched officially and there are booking time limits of 1 hour...not much you can print in that time frame, and I assume the demand will be high.
I found out today that a co-worker has a Creality CR20 and has had good luck with it, and uses Cura. He had recommended it as it has worked really well for him, so its good to see you mention it as well (also the opensource aspect is something I may not have come across myself, but knew Endless-sphere would provide these side details one would not think about :thumb: )
I will check out those programs, I do have AutoCAD 2008 and it does spit out .stl files but I'm sure the new software would be a lot more user friendly.
Thanks for the help!
Alan B
100 GW
I printed a Topeak MTX Trunk rack adapter for my Son's RadCity ebike today, it was about a 9 hour print. 1 hour would be almost useless for me.
Each half of this design is a 4-5 hour print. And that is at 0.30mm layer draft settings.
I'll add the picture in a minute, it is on another computer.
Each half of this design is a 4-5 hour print. And that is at 0.30mm layer draft settings.
I'll add the picture in a minute, it is on another computer.
Kevlar/carbon-fiber reinforced 3D printing filament. The resulting part is reported to be 3 times stronger than ABS, and equal to aluminum. Expensive now, maybe more affordable in a year or so.
https://all3dp.com/1/best-carbon-fiber-3d-printer-price/
[youtube]pnlWCxXc2iQ[/youtube]
https://all3dp.com/1/best-carbon-fiber-3d-printer-price/
[youtube]pnlWCxXc2iQ[/youtube]
Alan B
100 GW
Sometimes we want to use a Topeak trunk with some regular saddlebags. The trunk has some small fold-out saddlebags but they aren't very large or heavy duty. Unfortunately the trunk sits too low and the saddlebags need more room to clip to the bars. So I whipped up a variation of my earlier design to make a riser to lift the trunk 60mm and allow the saddlebags to fit under the trunk.
latecurtis
100 MW
Yea.
I am a bit confused over that post. It looks like it was 9 years ago and way before I started this post. Not sure when 3D printers first came out but if that is true then I should be able to find a printer equal to that today under $500.
The thing is though I do not need to print planetary gears right now. The e bikeling motors I own work just fine. The 26" rear drive probably has way over 1,000 miles on it as was rode exclusively about two years here in Ohio and also rode it a lot in NY before that.
I just took it easy on it and never pushed it that hard by pedal assisting or even walking up some hills. It does make a high pitch noise now and then but seems to run like new, The front e bikeling motor has less than 100 miles on it I think. The plan I have is to just run the front motor 95% of the time and only use the rear motor WITH the front and pedal assist up hills. That is the sole purpose of putting the rear motor on the bike. (The Giant Roam)
In fact I really did not need the Greentime controller either. I fixed the 1,000W hub motor SUNDER sent. I soldered all the sensor and motor wires. I tested it but the hub motor cover was not on right. I fixed that also. The reason for the Greentime controller and left hand drill bits is to make the hub motor more reliable.
A stick or branch could break a sensor wire and if one cover bolt breaks or comes out it could be a big problem. With the Greentime controller I could even use JB weld or have the hub motor cover spot welded if I can't remove the broken bolts as I know the 3 motor wires I soldered was a much better job than the sensor wires. That is due to the gauge of the wires. The sensor wires were way too thin to solder but did solder them. They are frail though and if you look at them wrong could break again.
I wish I could afford a $5,000 3D printer. I could 3D print hub motors possibly. That would be awesome however it takes money to make money. It is like a mechanic who cant get a job at a dealer as he needs more training and more tools so he works out of his garage in his back yard fixing lawn mowers and weed whackers until he gets the money to finish school and buy $5,000 worth of tools. Then he gets his $50,000 a year job as a master mechanic with benefits.
If I can buy a 3D printer I can defiantly make cell holders for 18650 packs. That is a fact. I can also make stuff for a dash board and possibly brackets for triangle racks and other cool stuff. Will I make $1,000 profit a week ? NO. $100 a week ? Mabye.
The thing is though even if I only make $50 a week to start or just break even in 6 months I will learn a lot. Then mabye in 3 or 4 years I could afford a $5,000 3D printer that can make all the parts for expensive high end mid drives or even geared hub motors.
The big thing is my lack of ambition and motivation. I need all the moral support I can get. I do not need to hear what I can't do. I heard that most of my life. I already know what I am NOT doing. Also I know that anything I do will probably fail miserably. I am just looking for something I CAN do. There has to be a way to make some money with a 3D printer. I am open for ideas. I do not need to be reminded of my short comings. I just need to know what is possible to do.
Thanks.
LC. out.
TheBeastie
1 MW
I am thinking of buying a 3d printer to try and print my dream mouse shell.
Being a PC gamer I have bought a fair amount of gamer mouses over the years and have found I get better Kill/Death ratios with smaller mouses.
But the smaller mouses almost always have minimal amounts of buttons on them. So when I saw people do 3d print mouse shells to make them lighter etc I thought this is something I want to try.
My main goal is to take a mouse with more buttons and print a smaller mouse shell to hold them all, I really do think that would be my ultimate mouse.
I am kind of seeing 3d printers a bit like quadcopters, where every year what you get for the same amount of money increases. Does anyone have any thoughts on a good value 3d printer for mouse shell printing? The prints are just for me I have no plan to try and sell any mouse shell prints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww2DauPKPaY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXNi_zuOCKQ
[youtube]sXNi_zuOCKQ[/youtube]
Being a PC gamer I have bought a fair amount of gamer mouses over the years and have found I get better Kill/Death ratios with smaller mouses.
But the smaller mouses almost always have minimal amounts of buttons on them. So when I saw people do 3d print mouse shells to make them lighter etc I thought this is something I want to try.
My main goal is to take a mouse with more buttons and print a smaller mouse shell to hold them all, I really do think that would be my ultimate mouse.
I am kind of seeing 3d printers a bit like quadcopters, where every year what you get for the same amount of money increases. Does anyone have any thoughts on a good value 3d printer for mouse shell printing? The prints are just for me I have no plan to try and sell any mouse shell prints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww2DauPKPaY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXNi_zuOCKQ
[youtube]sXNi_zuOCKQ[/youtube]
TheBeastie
1 MW
Decided to get one of these the Creality Ender 3 V2, lots of sellers and lots of YouTube reviews...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRbrSoMkeNU&t=2s
[youtube]JRbrSoMkeNU[/youtube]
So my dream making my ultimate gaming mouse is now all just down to me.
I noticed while Googling 3d printers that there has been a fair amount of news that some people have now really mastered the art of 3d printing guns...
With all the governments hysterical about terrorism I feel uncomfortable merely reading these articles while at the same time owning a 3d printer. In Australia, you need an equal amount of documentation to buy ammunition as you do as buying a gun, they basically treat buying ammo as the same thing, so 3d printed guns at least here it isn't really likely to be much of a problem IMO.
Cops issue scary warning Britain is being flooded with 3D printed guns made from plans found on the web for just £300
https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/14799456/britain-flooded-3d-guns-found-web/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRbrSoMkeNU&t=2s
[youtube]JRbrSoMkeNU[/youtube]
So my dream making my ultimate gaming mouse is now all just down to me.
I noticed while Googling 3d printers that there has been a fair amount of news that some people have now really mastered the art of 3d printing guns...
With all the governments hysterical about terrorism I feel uncomfortable merely reading these articles while at the same time owning a 3d printer. In Australia, you need an equal amount of documentation to buy ammunition as you do as buying a gun, they basically treat buying ammo as the same thing, so 3d printed guns at least here it isn't really likely to be much of a problem IMO.
Cops issue scary warning Britain is being flooded with 3D printed guns made from plans found on the web for just £300
https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/14799456/britain-flooded-3d-guns-found-web/
e-beach
10 MW
TheBeastie said:
Probably a good printer. Haven't been printing since my Lulzbot loaner was given back to the owner. So now you get to find the 3D modeling software that works for you, and endlessly tweak the 3D printer. It will take some time to get fast at it, but when it does it is fun and gives a lot of options.
So after being inspired by this thread for years, I've finally gotten into it:
endless-sphere.com
What shall we do with a 3D printer...early in the morning!
Or late at night, as the case might be. Thanks much to Nicobie for getting me started in this evil hobby, after years of being inspired by this thread https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/world-domination-i-just-got-my-self-a-3d-printer.42259/ There's two parts to this thread, one of...
endless-sphere.com
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