Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Since I can lift my seat up to pedal better, my plan last night was to leave early, and pedal all the way downtown, 20 miles with no power. With only 19 2/3 miles to go, I finally gave up on that stupid plan, sheez 
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:lol: thanks for the laugh TVTheodore Voltaire said:Since I can lift my seat up to pedal better, my plan last night was to leave early, and pedal all the way downtown, 20 miles with no power. With only 19 2/3 miles to go, I finally gave up on that stupid plan, sheez
Wouldn't want to do that on purpose.
I've done a 11 mile ride of Shame when I first got my bike.
litespeed
100 kW
Theodore Voltaire said:Since I can lift my seat up to pedal better, my plan last night was to leave early, and pedal all the way downtown, 20 miles with no power. With only 19 2/3 miles to go, I finally gave up on that stupid plan, sheez
LMAO!
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:Since I can lift my seat up to pedal better, my plan last night was to leave early, and pedal all the way downtown, 20 miles with no power. With only 19 2/3 miles to go, I finally gave up on that stupid plan, sheez
If there was a the best comment of the year award, on ES, this is it!!!
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
There's a lot of good bike riders in Ohio. Did I mention I was born in Ohio?
st35326
1 kW
Theodore Voltaire said:
Me too. O-H!!
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
This is all the way both directions. I have about 100 miles experience evaluating this dropper post now. Even though they're not specifically designed for motor bicycle use, motor bicycles are a perfect application.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
[youtube]YhLqDaOLHrk[/youtube]
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
[youtube]0ecT-TooWjY[/youtube]
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Does anyone know if a heavy stealth rear wheel tends to need, faster, or slower rebound damping?
I'm guessing that because of the weight, you're going to say faster?
I'm guessing that because of the weight, you're going to say faster?
I tried faster and it nearly killed me a few times when launching off jumps and large humps. I've since toned the rear right down to a medium/slow point which works well enough and doesn't try and kill me.
This is for off-road riding mainly though...if I were only on the street like you a faster rear makes more sense. I still wouldn't max it out though as you would still be dealing with speed bumps and curbs, etc. A medium/fast setting would probably work well for most street.
Cheers
This is for off-road riding mainly though...if I were only on the street like you a faster rear makes more sense. I still wouldn't max it out though as you would still be dealing with speed bumps and curbs, etc. A medium/fast setting would probably work well for most street.
Cheers
BMS wiring done.
Very happy with it, Bluetooth settings and PPTC fuses added to the balance wires at cell ends, connected and sitting next to the neg sides of the battery cans.
got the 150A continuous version although next time i'd just get one that does minimum and simply bypass for discharge.
Very happy with range and performance, next time around i'll glue the cells together and fit an extra row in there and another set of 22 ontop hence should be able to fit 22S12P vs 10P I have.
All said and done have almost double the range a stock bomber had back in 2014. All in probably 24 man hours work, which I reckon i could halve with some practise.
Recycled all the original power cables and fibreglass sides that were on the original battery but they are all substantially trimmed down.
Height at 2.5cm for the BMS IS A PROBLEM - cut down the stock foam under the back by about half for the win.
Very happy with it, Bluetooth settings and PPTC fuses added to the balance wires at cell ends, connected and sitting next to the neg sides of the battery cans.
got the 150A continuous version although next time i'd just get one that does minimum and simply bypass for discharge.
Very happy with range and performance, next time around i'll glue the cells together and fit an extra row in there and another set of 22 ontop hence should be able to fit 22S12P vs 10P I have.
All said and done have almost double the range a stock bomber had back in 2014. All in probably 24 man hours work, which I reckon i could halve with some practise.
Recycled all the original power cables and fibreglass sides that were on the original battery but they are all substantially trimmed down.
Height at 2.5cm for the BMS IS A PROBLEM - cut down the stock foam under the back by about half for the win.
Attachments
Nicely done Karl.
If you can build these in 12 hours each I may as well give up now. You could be onto a winner if you were willing to sell them.
Maybe I'm too meticulous, but my packs typically take 30-60 hours to make. Hence my pricing that many can't stomach.
Cheers
If you can build these in 12 hours each I may as well give up now. You could be onto a winner if you were willing to sell them.
Maybe I'm too meticulous, but my packs typically take 30-60 hours to make. Hence my pricing that many can't stomach.
Cheers
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Thanks for your comments about adjusting the shock CD. That agrees with what I was thinking.
I started out in the middle, then tried 3 clicks slower, and 3 more clicks slower. I rode it like that for about a year. Recently I tried 3 clicks on the fast side of the middle, and decided it rides a little better. I reduced the preload slightly, and it feels softer riding that ever before.
The combination of my Fastrace shock, and these new Fox forks have transformed my bike into a really comfortable ride.
I started out in the middle, then tried 3 clicks slower, and 3 more clicks slower. I rode it like that for about a year. Recently I tried 3 clicks on the fast side of the middle, and decided it rides a little better. I reduced the preload slightly, and it feels softer riding that ever before.
The combination of my Fastrace shock, and these new Fox forks have transformed my bike into a really comfortable ride.
Cowardlyduck said:
The cell holders and using Solar panel bus tape and solder saved a heap of time over glue and spot welding which i've done before and yes thats painfully slow and mistakes unforgiving (take it apart again potentially damaging cells etc)
As for making them commercially, like most things - better with practise. the extra time to make the pack bigger is enormous and we're lucky that 3500mAh cells are available and basically inexpensive.
If your soldering and using holders then there's hope for me yet.
See how long it lasts you, but I don't think there's many around here that will think soldering 18650's is a good idea, myself included.
Good luck!
Cheers
See how long it lasts you, but I don't think there's many around here that will think soldering 18650's is a good idea, myself included.
Good luck!
Cheers
Cowardlyduck said:
About 60 hours is the time I spent when I built my 20S14P battery last year and used a spotwelder as Cowardlyduck.
Today after about 57 cycles it is still ok and considering that often at night I cover a few km at full speed at about 100km/h (10-11kW) I would say that I can be satisfied with the result.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Since we're talking battery's, how would you rate this one I bought last December? It's had one hot summer season behind it now, and so far so good, I think. Since new it would come off the charger at 84v, but an hour later it would drop to about 83.8v and sit there another day maybe, and drop to 83.5v. Under full load it sags about 5v. In the first half of the charge above 72v, my bike is fast as stink. My question is, does this is sound normal?
It's made with Samsung 30Q, is 20s8p, and 80/200 bms.
It's made with Samsung 30Q, is 20s8p, and 80/200 bms.
Theodore Voltaire said:
Sounds AOK to me.
My sag under load was 3-5V depending on SOC a couple of volts more now the BMS is in there (so similar to yours now) but i can live with that for the peace of mind that if something goes wrong with the charger i dont a) damage the battery b) burn the house down.
20S8P is 160 cells @3AH cells is 1.7kWh vs my 220cells 22S10P @3.5Ah cells nominal 2.7kWh.
Just goes to show the cell tech we have now vs back in 2011 when the bomber came out people reported getting just 1.2kWh out of the pack - still huge for its time of course.
Glad I'm not the only one.bigbore said:
My 14S14P pack in my Fighter is similarly still going strong. I've only done about 5 cycles on it...really need to get out more. Too busy building everyone else's packs. :lol:
Cheers
Cowardlyduck said:[ I've only done about 5 cycles on it...really need to get out more. Too busy building everyone else's packs. :lol:
Cheers
You sure do, done ~1000kms on mine since i got it a few months back. guessing thats around 30-40 cycles haven't checked the CA.
Melbourne weather isnt helping, rubbish again today.
Theodore Voltaire said:FL are you seeing something approximately like this? This is with my ca set to 65 amp. It was only about 1 amp less with the ca on 60 amp. The stock battery never saw over 67.7 amp.
The watt meter is where the real action is. With the ca set for 60 amp, watts are 4500w with the new battery. Stock it never got above 4350, maybe 4400 rarely. I always thought that's all you get. Now with the ca set for 65 amp I see 4700w continuous, but you're going to have to take my word for that, because I'm not man enough to take a good picture of 4700 watts riding with one hand.
Theo
WOW I'm surprised - my CA today shows Max 78A and typically hot off the charger ~90V >6000W and rarely if ever goes below 5500W even down at 78V under load.
I haven't played with the CA settings , even if you could I dont think you can go higher than the max amps the controller will run anyway
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
KarlJ said:
I didn't think a stock controller would go that high. I think the highest I've ever seen was about 67.8
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
The president came to town, and Electronaut was there.
[youtube]0A4b_tNBGJ4[/youtube]
[youtube]0A4b_tNBGJ4[/youtube]
