Mongoose CX24V450 with 2500 watt L-R Small Block

EbikeAus said:
Raisedeyebrows said:
No I have not done any mods to the bike lately, just riding it a lot and also pedaling a Mountain Bike on various trails a ton as well this summer.

Looks like putting a longer shock on is totally doable and should get you a bit more seat height, appears one would not cause any clearance problems either, I am going to see what I can find in the way of shocks that will work. The 219 drive chain is holding up well and the chain on the pedaling side doesn't get stressed much so it's good too. I think you'll be amazed at how the small block motor fits in there like a glove with plenty of room for adjusting the chain tension as well. With the 20" wheel in the back it really climbs hills like crazy.

I was careful to check the tension on the chains daily when breaking it in just to make sure either side didn't snug too much and booger up any bearings. I only did one chain adjustment and it's held fine, Mike thought the tension was looking good. Once you have the motor and bracket you should be able to bolt it together pretty quickly so looking forward to seeing another with a similar setup. What are you doing for battery?

Sounds like it's working well for you. That's good! I'm looking forward to getting mine going better :D
We're coming into some better weather here, so should be able to give it a good run.

I was thinking a 165mm or 190mm shock with 50mm travel could work well but will most likely swap to a 24" front wheel first, as you did, then see where it sits.

I'm in the middle of building a 14s 5p Samsung 25R battery with bluetooth bms.
I have access to large quantities of near new power cells for dirt cheap, so cant really justify buying a pre- made battery.



I'll mention the Magura Hydraulic Rim Brake I installed on the rear is working extremely well, it was money well spent and has a lot of braking power and a nice feel to it. I can see why downhillers used them before disks brakes were common. The pads that came with the Brake are so good I will just order another set when they wear out, I've been putting them through hell doing hard stops on steep hills and they really grab and haven't worn much at all.
 
Raisedeyebrows said:
EbikeAus said:
Raisedeyebrows said:
No I have not done any mods to the bike lately, just riding it a lot and also pedaling a Mountain Bike on various trails a ton as well this summer.

Looks like putting a longer shock on is totally doable and should get you a bit more seat height, appears one would not cause any clearance problems either, I am going to see what I can find in the way of shocks that will work. The 219 drive chain is holding up well and the chain on the pedaling side doesn't get stressed much so it's good too. I think you'll be amazed at how the small block motor fits in there like a glove with plenty of room for adjusting the chain tension as well. With the 20" wheel in the back it really climbs hills like crazy.

I was careful to check the tension on the chains daily when breaking it in just to make sure either side didn't snug too much and booger up any bearings. I only did one chain adjustment and it's held fine, Mike thought the tension was looking good. Once you have the motor and bracket you should be able to bolt it together pretty quickly so looking forward to seeing another with a similar setup. What are you doing for battery?

Sounds like it's working well for you. That's good! I'm looking forward to getting mine going better :D
We're coming into some better weather here, so should be able to give it a good run.

I was thinking a 165mm or 190mm shock with 50mm travel could work well but will most likely swap to a 24" front wheel first, as you did, then see where it sits.

I'm in the middle of building a 14s 5p Samsung 25R battery with bluetooth bms.
I have access to large quantities of near new power cells for dirt cheap, so cant really justify buying a pre- made battery.



I'll mention the Magura Hydraulic Rim Brake I installed on the rear is working extremely well, it was money well spent and has a lot of braking power and a nice feel to it. I can see why downhillers used them before disks brakes were common. The pads that came with the Brake are so good I will just order another set when they wear out, I've been putting them through hell doing hard stops on steep hills and they really grab and haven't worn much at all.

Thanks for that heads up with the magura brakes, they sound really good. Think i'll be needing a bit more stopping power with the small bock! :D
 
what kind of bottom bracket is on the bike? I want to put a cyclone motor on it but not sure if I can put a cassette on the rear or not
 
Bumping this as I’m about to start working on mine again
 
joshuahuang said:
what kind of bottom bracket is on the bike? I want to put a cyclone motor on it but not sure if I can put a cassette on the rear or not

The bottom bracket is the stock one that came with the bike as far as I know. No I don’t think a cassette will fit.
 
First of all, outstanding project/work :flame: Mike & Kelly :bigthumb: ,

I( in Charleston, SC) didn't know anything about this "goose" project. I biked to James Island Goodwill(10/5/19) looking for size 11 tennis shoes.
2Vi76lV

Saw the CX24V450 with the sticker(paper slip/price) already gone. Went to front desk & management to inquire. No show from sticker bandit. $30 and a ride from neighbor is all she wrote.
338Ozep

Got on Googges. Bookmarked this post & then watched way to much YT, Subscribed to ERT & Messaged Lightning Rods on FB too. I have never owned or worked on a dirt bike or e-bike. However I have a 9 yr old daughter & soon to be 12 yr old son that love to ride and adventure on bikes with me on JI. I would love for them to go the full distances with me on something like this. If you gentlemen wouldn't mine, I would be quite honored to borrow your knowledge/template for my kiddos to ride a "goose" on the east coast. Please let me know the best way to reach out. I can easily be found online as well. God Bless fellas.
2AMXDJG
 
Hi Mike,
I received your PM on Facebook. I’m finishing up two full bike builds right now and so I’m in the shop rather than on the computer.
I’ll be happy to share whatever info I can on this project. This is actually a lot of bike for a child. It can be detuned of course, but Kelly has been tearing around at speeds that I wouldn’t want MY youngster traveling.
Loop back to my LightningRods Facebook page and let me know how I can help you.
Cheers,
Mike (Lightning Rods)
 
Hi, been lurking on E.S. for a while but this is my first post. Ive been cruising one of these bikes for a few years now, running the stock currie with 36v worth of dewalt drill batteries lol. Super fun, but I'd really like to step it up a lot with a setup like this. I recently bought a batch of unused 36v segway batteries real cheap. I want to link em to 72v and run this same small block... First I want to upgrade the suspension and drive train. Has anyone figured out a decent replacement for the rear shock? Maybe a little oversized for a taller height? Also, finding good 24" suspension disc forks has been difficult but I'm about to pre order these I think: https://www.srsuntour.us/products/xcr-air-lo-25?variant=5469981933599.
I can't find an affordable 24 Inc disc front wheel. Thinking about lacing one myself? Never done it before, but I've never let that stop me from spending way too much time and twice as much money in the end to figure it out myself!
Any advice you folks could give would be greatly appreciated. This site is absolutely fantastic, Ive learned a ton so far just by lurking
 
I have a 26" fork on mine with the 20" wheel on it. Handles and rides fine. Don't get hung up on a 24" specific fork. For the rear shock I'm running an old rockshox 6.5" shock. It looks to me like the shock mount could be moved to the top of the swingarm tube such that you could run the more common 8" shocks without any major changes to the ride height. Its a fun little bike. My kids are 2 and 5 and because the seat is so long we can actually all ride it at the same time. I'm on stock drivetrain and 36v worth of power tool batteries as well. I can't believe the curry drive has held up this long.
 
The small block that was used on Kelly’s bike has been upgraded to an IPM motor that is fully sine wave compatible. It will work really well with the new more powerful BAC 8xx controller or a PowerVelocity 12 FET. It should be a 4000 watt screamer. I also just received a shipment of the swingarm bracket was used for this build.
 
Thanks for all the info! I went ahead and threw an old 26" fork and wheel on 'er, keeping the 20" on the rear for the higher rpms... Looks goofy as all hell but it's actually growing on me. Took it all apart, gonna hit her with a rattle can paint job before new shocks and LR small block get here. I think it's gonna be scary fast at 72v!
 

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Has a bit of an old time look to it.
1CDCB179-87D8-4277-B325-9DFD55CE90A4.jpeg

You may have better luck with a smaller wheel up front but if you like the handling then I guess the 26" is cool too.

If you are going to paint it you might want to hold off until you get the rear shock. On mine the top shock pivot hole was too far away from the edge of those 2 plates it mounts to. I had to grind some clearance. Might save you from painting twice.
 
Haha definitely old timey. Thanks for the heads up with the shock... I'll hold off until it gets here
 
So it so far has been impossible to locate a 20" rear wheel with a disc brake hub that i could solid mount a sprocket to, copycatting the design of the build here. So i looked for a southpaw freewheel, but the largest Left hand thread freewheel i can find is 22 t which isnt even close to the reduction needed for this project. Can anyone help me figure this out? To clarify, the motor side threads on the rear hub are lefty.
I did find this, and even better, one made by acs, but it doesnt look like anyone has had them in stock since 2016. https://cart.electricscooterparts.com/5-hole-bicycle-freewheel-with-1-375-x-24-tpi-left-hand-threads
Its too bad cause i think it would work perfect so that i can mount a sprocket to it

I also found this- very similar but reeks of low quality: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Freewheel-Left-Handed-Thread-/263877848884?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
I eventually ruined the stock freewheel putting 36v thru it, so I cant imagine that whatever chinesium they use in the internals will hold up to 72v. I probably will go ahead and order one and rip it until it fails but obviously thats not ideal.
another option would be to weld or somehow bolt a bigger sprocket on to my current 20 t acs freewheel, but i think there is plastic inside it that may melt, plus it would have to be reasonably precise.
Thanks in advance for any info, You guys rule
 
Is the 22 tooth Freewheel large enough to drill through to bolt a larger sprocket? Just ignore the teeth and use the material as a flange.

Ive also seen people run bolts through at the root of the freewheel sprocket teeth since they are round. Its like half a hole so the sprocket cant spin because its keyed into the bolts.

Sorry that description sucks. Basically take a large plate sprocket and drill some bolt holes through it such that the bolts are touching the root of the Freewheel teeth at their smallest point. This is the same spot where the chain rollers would contact. Then drill and tap a plate on the other side in the same locations. You will be making a sprocket sandwich with a large sprocket and a threaded plate for bread and the freewheel sprocket is the meat.

You could also flip the pedals around and do human drive on the left with the lower strength freewheel and motor power on the right with off the shelf parts if you dont want to make things.
 
Wow, DanGT86, that is frickin great! I was thinking about drilling through the teeth but your idea makes so much sense! Self centering too, if done right... Also, switching drive sides is something i just started to consider last night. Might be the way to go. Thanks DanGT86!
 
Also, thanks to Mike from lightning rods! My new motor showed up at my parents house today, I'll be getting it from them tomorrow! He has been a great help so far and his customer service is stellar! Can't wait to be going way too fast!
 
DanGT86 said:
Is the 22 tooth Freewheel large enough to drill through to bolt a larger sprocket? Just ignore the teeth and use the material as a flange.

Ive also seen people run bolts through at the root of the freewheel sprocket teeth since they are round. Its like half a hole so the sprocket cant spin because its keyed into the bolts.

Sorry that description sucks. Basically take a large plate sprocket and drill some bolt holes through it such that the bolts are touching the root of the Freewheel teeth at their smallest point. This is the same spot where the chain rollers would contact. Then drill and tap a plate on the other side in the same locations. You will be making a sprocket sandwich with a large sprocket and a threaded plate for bread and the freewheel sprocket is the meat.

You could also flip the pedals around and do human drive on the left with the lower strength freewheel and motor power on the right with off the shelf parts if you dont want to make things.

After a quick look at mine I don't see any reason you could't pedal drive from the left.

There definitely more freewheel and drive options for RH threads. If you do end up lacing up a wheel for it you can bolt to the disk brake flange and get regen. It seems like a waste to not have regen on something like this since the motor is on the swing arm and its really easy to setup from a mechanical standpoint.
 
Hey everybody, finally back to my build. I was forced to take a brief hiatus because, believe it or not, I was attacked by actual neo nazis on the street in front of my house! I'm trying to get this thing together before our fleeting northeastern summer ends. I have a few questions I was hoping I could get some help with. I decided to flip the pedal/motor drive sides, looks like it should work pretty easily. I know I will have to run the motor in the other direction (a topic which has been covered and I think I can manage), but I was just wondering if Mike had any input or experience on doing that with this motor? Also, I like that you used 219 chain on your build, rather than #35, but I can't find a 60t sprocket. Do you have a source for both the front and rear #219 sprockets you used?
Thanks for the help, yet again, guys. Should I start a new build thread for this bike, or would it be more useful here because I'm basically copycatting with a few mods?
 
I run these motors both clockwise and counterclockwise in my various builds. It’s as simple as changing the hall and phase wire sequence. I can give you the sequences for the Lyen and PowerVelocity controllers.
I’ve never seen a 219 sprocket with a bicycle 6 bolt rotor pattern on it. Which is why I created them. $45 in stainless steel.
7286E882-0A9C-4768-B8C0-8EE6DC5C3910.jpeg
Feel free to post your build here if you want.
 
Great, thanks Mike! I don't know how I missed the accessories page on your site while I was looking for driveline parts, lots of useful stuff. I'll pm you soon with an order
 
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