Ebike Hub Motor overheating cooling solution - HUBSINK OFFICIAL THREAD

rockstar195 said:
Has anybody have luck running the hub sinks ONLY, with NO FF or Statorade?
Click to expand...


people have and it does help, (if your magnet ring gets warm, the hubsinks will pull more heat out regardless) but they work so well together i wouldnt recommend doing one without the other, unless you have a specific reason to need to do so :flame:
 
Those of you with the hubsinks, are you tightening the nuts and bolts all the way down? Just installed mine and still have a gap inbetween each hubsink....it seems not necessary to do so, seems secure at that
 
The gap works as a spring to keep tension on the assembly throughout heat cycles you are correct

Don't tighten them right up till they touch, just untill they are snug and equal around the hub


rockstar195 said:
Those of you with the hubsinks, are you tightening the nuts and bolts all the way down? Just installed mine and still have a gap inbetween each hubsink....it seems not necessary to do so, seems secure at that
Click to expand...
 
I have a bit of time on the CNC this week

does anyone with a 273 at hand have the exact measurements for the magnet ring diameter, i have been given 3 or 4 different ones now and want to make sure im accurate, it looks like 295mm is the average so far?
what is the true clearance between flanges?

can be measured with a wire then a rule
qs273.jpg
 
sketchism said:
I have a bit of time on the CNC this week

does anyone with a 273 at hand have the exact measurements for the magnet ring diameter, i have been given 3 or 4 different ones now and want to make sure im accurate, it looks like 295mm is the average so far?
what is the true clearance between flanges?

can be measured with a wire then a rule
qs273.jpg
Click to expand...

image is to scale... import it into any CAD software, scale and you can measure yourself? would be more accurate than a wire + rule... unless you want the drawing verified?
 
Thanks mate thats definately handy, my main concern is the QS 205 ones dont match the drawing or specs from QS (295mm) in real life after paint etc and the tolerances are so tight that i actually spent quite a bit of time with trial and error to get the final hubsinks to truely fit correctly so i would love a few more real life measurements


sn0wchyld said:
sketchism said:
I have a bit of time on the CNC this week

does anyone with a 273 at hand have the exact measurements for the magnet ring diameter, i have been given 3 or 4 different ones now and want to make sure im accurate, it looks like 295mm is the average so far?
what is the true clearance between flanges?

can be measured with a wire then a rule
qs273.jpg
Click to expand...

image is to scale... import it into any CAD software, scale and you can measure yourself? would be more accurate than a wire + rule... unless you want the drawing verified?
Click to expand...
 
Throwing in the Goldenmotor hubmotor (large diameter model) with&w/o internal controller:
I measured the circumference with a wire (903mm) and calculated the diameter -> 287.4mm.
Width between flanges, flat part without radius: 16mm max, so perfect for 1x 15mm ring of hubsinks.
Magnet width: 19mm, diameter for spokes: 299mm.
Conclusion: Diameter is a few mm less than the 295mm of QS273, could be problematic for a good contact surface with hubsinks.
goldenmotor.jpg
 
emmgee said:
Conclusion: Diameter (287.4mm) is a few mm less than the 295mm of QS273, could be problematic for a good contact surface with hubsinks.
Click to expand...

:idea:
Get a 15mm wide, 902mm long and 1mm (or 1.2mm/1.5mm) thick aluminum strip cut at a customer friendly fabrication shop or sheet metal supplier. Every 1mm thickness of strip will add an extra 2mm of diameter to the Magic Pie. That times Pi = 6.28mm to the circumference. Put it under the HubSinks (for a QS273) on the Golden Motor Magic Pie with thermal paste between all layers. I don't know how much mm's HubSinks have to spare between the flanges when bolted down so 1mm might or might not be enough for an underlay strip?
 
may even be ok with a 2mm silicon thermal tape under in place of the thermal paste, pads it out snugly and good heat transfer

SlowCo said:
emmgee said:
Conclusion: Diameter (287.4mm) is a few mm less than the 295mm of QS273, could be problematic for a good contact surface with hubsinks.
Click to expand...

:idea:
Get a 15mm wide, 902mm long and 1mm (or 1.2mm/1.5mm) thick aluminum strip cut at a customer friendly fabrication shop or sheet metal supplier. Every 1mm thickness of strip will add an extra 2mm of diameter to the Magic Pie. That times Pi = 6.28mm to the circumference. Put it under the HubSinks (for a QS273) on the Golden Motor Magic Pie with thermal paste between all layers. I don't know how much mm's HubSinks have to spare between the flanges when bolted down so 1mm might or might not be enough for an underlay strip?
Click to expand...
 
Interesting... 3M produces a "Thermally Conductive Silicone Interface Pad 5586" (sold e.g. by Mouser) 210x155x2mm which could do the job. Thanks for the tips!
 
Justin sells a kit for 69.00usd and hubsink sells the fins and nuts for 69.00usd only. No storaid or thermal paste. Did I read this right ? I like USA and shipping from Canada can be expensive. ???
 
999zip999 said:
Justin sells a kit for 69.00usd and hubsink sells the fins and nuts for 69.00usd only. No storaid or thermal paste. Did I read this right ? I like USA and shipping from Canada can be expensive. ???
Click to expand...

Hey mate

The pricing on Grin and the Hubsink website are the same, both kits include the nuts, bolts and thermal paste, both pages have the statorade as a seperate product.

the Hubsink website ships from Australia and the grin one from Canada
 
sketchism said:
999zip999 said:
Justin sells a kit for 69.00usd and hubsink sells the fins and nuts for 69.00usd only. No storaid or thermal paste. Did I read this right ? I like USA and shipping from Canada can be expensive. ???
Click to expand...

Hey mate

The pricing on Grin and the Hubsink website are the same, both kits include the nuts, bolts and thermal paste, both pages have the statorade as a seperate product.

the Hubsink website ships from Australia and the grin one from Canada
Click to expand...

Sketch! Good to see you're still around :) I'm likely to be making an order for more pouch cells so if you know of any projects let me know - we can hit the MOQ.
 
jonescg said:
sketchism said:
999zip999 said:
Justin sells a kit for 69.00usd and hubsink sells the fins and nuts for 69.00usd only. No storaid or thermal paste. Did I read this right ? I like USA and shipping from Canada can be expensive. ???
Click to expand...

Hey mate

The pricing on Grin and the Hubsink website are the same, both kits include the nuts, bolts and thermal paste, both pages have the statorade as a seperate product.

the Hubsink website ships from Australia and the grin one from Canada
Click to expand...

Sketch! Good to see you're still around :) I'm likely to be making an order for more pouch cells so if you know of any projects let me know - we can hit the MOQ.
Click to expand...

same mate, havent seen you on FB since you left but im still trawling the forums, been working on finalising the wheelie box!

awesome man! i have an electric supercharger project i need some punchy small packs for ill shoot you an email!
 
Sorry love Justin's website says both stearate and thermal paste. Hubsink website does not explain it's products very well. will weight on answer from hubsink. It's in the picture but it's not in print. Say what you mean mean what you say
This is not a bad man, comic I have to deal with the Riddler.
 
999zip999 said:
Sorry love Justin's website says both stearate and thermal paste. Hubsink website does not explain it's products very well. will weight on answer from hubsink. It's in the picture but it's not in print. Say what you mean mean what you say
This is not a bad man, comic I have to deal with the Riddler.
Click to expand...


no worries mate if you are looking to cool your ebike hub motor, the hubsinks will do that no worries, you can purchase them from anywhere you like, the statorade is seperate but highly reccomended.

grin hubsink - https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motor-hardware/cooling-mods/hubsink-set.html
grin statorade https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/experimental/statorade.html?SID=4d2864aabf0e1707b66a3040c282afe1

website hubsink - https://hubsink.com/products/heatsink
website statorade - https://hubsink.com/products/genuine-statorade-ferrofluid-australian-stock
 
Good I feel great as I got sketch out of the water and back on the beach. Sorry sketch we miss you thought you might gone on the other side of the reef
By the way I sent you a message through email.Thanks.
 
sketchism said:
999zip999 said:
Sorry love Justin's website says both stearate and thermal paste. Hubsink website does not explain it's products very well. will weight on answer from hubsink. It's in the picture but it's not in print. Say what you mean mean what you say
This is not a bad man, comic I have to deal with the Riddler.
Click to expand...


no worries mate if you are looking to cool your ebike hub motor, the hubsinks will do that no worries, you can purchase them from anywhere you like, the statorade is seperate but highly reccomended.

grin hubsink - https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motor-hardware/cooling-mods/hubsink-set.html
grin statorade https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/experimental/statorade.html?SID=4d2864aabf0e1707b66a3040c282afe1

website hubsink - https://hubsink.com/products/heatsink
website statorade - https://hubsink.com/products/genuine-statorade-ferrofluid-australian-stock
Click to expand...

Are the qs205 sinks wider than the ones for other 205mm motors? Should I buy from grin or the website for 205? Is one going to ship faster than the other?
 
I joined the club and bought from grin because I needed more stuff. I read the installation guide and instead the motor but not with WD-40 or oils so I'm assuming he wants I for profect alcohol or soap and water ? It's for my edge 1,500 shot box motor as my magnets came loose and had to reglue with jb weld high temp. Plus at 4,000 Watts is gets hot and I had to pour a beer on it to cool it down. It 7 yrs ago I saw Luke cut a slot of pour water in a hot motor ??? And go off and race again.
Time to put my muxus 3,000 v3 back on
Plus I miss understood you have to buy thermal fluid separately
 
Finally! got the Qs273 Hubsinks working!
one tube of statorade is perfect with them, and they just need a little massaging with the BETA versions to have perfect contact but they are very effective for high power overheating hub motors!
 
sketchism said:
Finally! got the Qs273 Hubsinks working!
one tube of statorade is perfect with them, and they just need a little massaging with the BETA versions to have perfect contact but they are very effective for high power overheating hub motors!
Click to expand...

Hi there..is 1 tube about 10ml? Will there be any motor drag?
 
I believe Justin did the wind tunnel testing and drag was negligible as its a lubricity compound as well
 
sketchism said:
Finally! got the Qs273 Hubsinks working!
one tube of statorade is perfect with them, and they just need a little massaging with the BETA versions to have perfect contact but they are very effective for high power overheating hub motors!
Click to expand...

Hi!
How were you able to bend them? They are not sitting flush with the qs273 motor. I read where you mentioned that they need a little bending. I dont wanna start banging on the to flatten them out..or do i??
 
Yep you should be just able to push them down by hand with the curve facing upwards, get one to match exactly then use it as the template for the rest, takes about 5 mins


ebike11 said:
sketchism said:
Finally! got the Qs273 Hubsinks working!
one tube of statorade is perfect with them, and they just need a little massaging with the BETA versions to have perfect contact but they are very effective for high power overheating hub motors!
Click to expand...

Hi!
How were you able to bend them? They are not sitting flush with the qs273 motor. I read where you mentioned that they need a little bending. I dont wanna start banging on the to flatten them out..or do i??
Click to expand...
 
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