bluetooth BMS?

Bummer! I two have the same BMS in the 60A model, and no problems so far. I do check in on the cell group voltages every couple weeks, which was my main purpose in buying a smart BMS. I've read that you can try to bring the cells back to life with very low current manual charging. You'd probably need a variable voltage power supply to do so.
 
cycborg said:
But could this result in the failure cascading through 5 groups?

yes, this is due to the circuit design that is used in most bms. it means that the number 7 FET is blown up.
 
flippy said:
...the number 7 FET is blown up.
Do you mean number 5? It's groups 1-5 that failed. Regardless, what's the mechanism that causes this cascade?

I think the management IC is the TI BQ76940, which is for up to 15s. These 15 are split into 3 blocks of 5, so it's plausible that a whole block failed somehow. Now to figure out the how.
 
Hi, people, how are you doing?

I'm trying to repair my bluetooth BMS but I don't know which component is that marked with this blue arrow. I know it's a diode but I don't know if it is a rectifier, schottky or a zener. It fried after the 10R resistor (white arrow) has blown.

Further, I have replaced the µC (ATMEGA328P) and the 10R (white arrow).

Does anybody can help me?

IMG-20191002-230855.jpg
 
Inwo said:
14s bt cell count.png
Hi i have the same problem with the pc sw. cant connect i have the ant bms got it from aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32997552090.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.118a4c4djjhFBj
have you figured out how to connect. thank you for any info you can give me.
 
cycborg said:
plateau said:
I have replaced the µC
So... are you writing your own software?

Unfortunately no, my dear.

A month ago I have tried to update the firmware and the connection has been lost during the procedure. Mr BotoXbz has shared the stock firmware with me and I flashed it in the new µC. However, I can't go ahead because I need to replace this diode to avoid more problems.

Do you have a BMS like that? If so, could you check if there is anything marked over the component?

Regards
 
Hi, great discussion, so glad I found this forum.

On the calibration tab, there is VoltageTemp Calibration and Current Calibration.

I had calibrated each cell and temp probes and all looked good and consistent with my multi meter.
Next I tried the current calibration.
I have to say that the current readout of the Pack Info tab was pretty close without any calibration.
The default settings, what ever they were, were good enough.
However, I proceeded to calibrate the current.
The battery was in a resting state in my system (Victron ESS), so I pressed the Idle button which I believed would set the quiescent current level.
Unfortunately, now I get no current readout in Pack Info tab - 0.0, when the battery is being discharged/charged.

I set the actual discharge current during discharge to the Victron ESS displayed value and pressed the Discharge current button.

This did not have any effect, still showing 0.0 current being drawn in Pack Info tab.

So I am obviously doing this calibration wrong, but can't get back to the original setting before I made changes.

Has anyone successfully done the current calibration or if possible to set the BMS back to Factory original settings.

Thanks in advance

Cliff
 
John61ct “if it ain't broke, don't fix it”

True enough.

A tinker too far maybe, but the calibration function is there in the software.

Any experience in this area would be most welcome.
As a last resort is it possible to reset the BMS to factory original settings.

Thanks in advance for more practical advice.
 
I made this mistake once,
IIRC I changed the shunt value to something like 2.5mOhm and then did a current calibration at 10A discharge and 5A charge and all was good again.
It wasn't any more accurate than it was previously btw.
 
john61ct said:
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

if it aint broke: mess with it until it is. :mrgreen:
 
you need to disconnect ALL users before callibarating the shunt. ANY current flow will mess up the reading.
 
flippy said:
you need to disconnect ALL users before callibarating the shunt. ANY current flow will mess up the reading.

Would this be for the Idle button, you are talking about. Don’t quite understand what you mean. Can you elaborate with reference to the jdbtool software as to how the calibration is meant to be performed.

Thanks.
 
HELP

I have the ANT 8S-24S BMS all hooked up to my 22S battery and although i've found software on the iphone in Chinese does anyone know what the app is called for android - having O luck today

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.0.0.72b24c4dbPh6fD&orderId=8001464751540317&productId=32856349172

Cheers Karl
 
the download link is several pages back posted by me
 
Hello Everybody,

i bought a ANT-BMS 16S wich seems to behaive differently from the one i read all over the pages.

My BMS has no UART header i opened it this morning and i found a Panasonic AN49503A Chip.

Does anybody know this Board ?

The Reason why i ask is beause i tried different bluetooth implementation to get the data out of the bms into linux and no one has worked for me.

Thank You!


 
Hi there,

I have ordered one such BMS from lithiumbatteriespcb.com, and it just showed up. In the meantime, I realized that I mistakenly (stupidly) ordered the LiFePo4 version instead of the LiIon version.

While I wait for my cells to arrive, my question to you expert folks is: will I be able to change the default parameters (like LVC HVC etc) from the bluetooth/PC interface, or there is something in the hardware that makes it specific for the LiFe chemistry?

Thanks for your replies
 
There is no hardware difference, just change the appropriate values and you are good to go.

If you bought a BMS with the wrong cell count it is a bit more difficult to set up.
 
Thanks, relieving news. It's quite difficult to understand from "documentation"...

Cell count is OK, I was sleepy when ordering but not too drunk :)
 
Could anyone help me?

plateau said:
Hi, people, how are you doing?

I'm trying to repair my bluetooth BMS but I don't know which component is that marked with this blue arrow. I know it's a diode but I don't know if it is a rectifier, schottky or a zener. It fried after the 10R resistor (white arrow) has blown.

Further, I have replaced the µC (ATMEGA328P) and the 10R (white arrow).

Does anybody can help me?

IMG-20191002-230855.jpg
 
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