bluetooth BMS?

plateau said:
Could anyone help me?

plateau said:
Hi, people, how are you doing?

I'm trying to repair my bluetooth BMS but I don't know which component is that marked with this blue arrow. I know it's a diode but I don't know if it is a rectifier, schottky or a zener. It fried after the 10R resistor (white arrow) has blown.

Further, I have replaced the µC (ATMEGA328P) and the 10R (white arrow).

Does anybody can help me?

IMG-20191002-230855.jpg
All I can observe is it looks to be an older revision of the JBD BMS. I have one labeled v1.3, one labeled v1.4, and yours doesn't even seem to mention a version. I'd try a standard rectifier diode and see if it works, but proceed at your own risk since my knowledge is limited.
 
thundercamel said:
All I can observe is it looks to be an older revision of the JBD BMS. I have one labeled v1.3, one labeled v1.4, and yours doesn't even seem to mention a version. I'd try a standard rectifier diode and see if it works, but proceed at your own risk since my knowledge is limited.

Thank you so much for your attention, Thunder.

My BMS has a glue over the components and it makes the things hard to identify which components are soldered.

In your case, is there this glue? Even though a different version, I think the project is very similar (his area is related to voltage regulation). If so, could you try to see what is marked over the components (especially this diode).

One more time, thank you so much for everything.

Regards,

Pedro Rosa.
 
There does seem to be some sort of conformal coating over that end of the board, up to the main mosfets. I did try to find a similar diode before my last post, but the layouts are pretty different.

Open image as a new tab for full resolution:
q-ichdbUL7X16d5NbLWid2aYuW3Av9rBJ3TYTLG4i-KAG_PFuo1ffSbl5RnMdITtIlnpAlqpTweK4F5coHmcRJbT9wIiKI5pqpTDFttQ4EfsM-RAt9JZUS1Odeh21QYXBEdiDOp-qGG5fsV-Zg-mEVIHZNtTfIgustCRMK6YYTValClIu7YDhHrs4RXC5I1sW5PsUKKaCQugaloFErfHOp4mG0673EyrPKWd40Voivu851iDmwWtOHRbHwIscoiKazqTvT9cplVvZAFsEiS-AVzx4sWVyKmUopKZRAMNPvQya7sxK6aUvrKS2oeGRy4SaJYNIptd6znGI7aB8JpBtrAAXebPfZujJFOdmdzLxnbH_XjauHM5QIO0nv3pJtk-xWrX1CUzFSc70gjkkJqOO5ILGVUG0jNe50HMnDYvwwqo-7NF6OJx9nnDssQgurGtQfXPbB66_Ku_TBXn4BTARCtFaS2V8s5MywGO1oIKkHLcDKGlvKraVgdU0cOAuljeQya7hqZjEN4xn1VZdj9kXdpv-dbDfYN0ICrDkohkvqu0t5gWybOTv5HLGa9Wo5kiNlsH-30tdbsuKeMpYETSEmEpJZhp4t2W62OoYDTZiHoiNRLY0Nqz-mcsQnLacAI11H8TMKlPF53qDYZg5kQ5bEF0EcUe4q8tNWVOGwWStTr-ID0ACjPC-MioLJH1nAcdVYQYnC6wgbUjCfkApX0AXQ4ItvJ-g098yxvSaJ847Niufk0=w4160-h2340-no


siioqKOzauRCzT-aUhFvyr8ZU-Sg3O_kIBJgmcNU4YLETPjMnXKFSbSX8QE5Xp36D5B_RF5RzpXHCI4WRqHGJodyorQZ_VDT3Zw1k2nel-ZfM_KjJyMZ1IYYg3U7zshj8iBq2jgZHeIg899b9ziPD_uBl0tG8na2etmtZecd9ntl_6nh3srzR157-c1lnefEkTwftDdU2sF57LawLWbXgZSt9GbTIV4XwujkcNZRCjEUAm7iq1WbpFJCyPlY7hQCRdwbHzD6iwmiNTZdQRQHE7P5xnbpPm2sqV7AlwcOcaIgTf0ZmtQl82TYB4c_QjRdQVu8eGizgUThlsy1gWWRODvENEex85We0jmK3FOjfbrfrbM2WKPJCUGUajYO2inRdZEWlPn136TPOHrsLiXWJsk7EmsQPz0n-dXrchp2Mg-xT2vw4DKRDHo_usiYjNJRVtQHwO_YLA9mcE31u4vT4Afgg7oA-b5dfvzxa5jZE5Hmu3_xaqGyIOYhfHDFWs7elE3Zm31G1lImHZTNSODG1LTKU7gL2nRGkLYvN0lGdVc5XOOPn5EE--0-zHy7wcmNpRCz-OHJBKMsVvn6aQFI8p-DNcPLnr9S2S0P325x-n0uxB3iYMoeKqc-aNJiFKRS-HzF5PxNXIeFjBdzdkDWiKviPI6HpQskWbehlWwDROd1QQEU2LK1CernSQlpTvKzfHtjF4Lhye50O8hbIavtDSNKV9m6ciA8-Ad7C-9S4jcjk1I=w4160-h2340-no
 
I've been reading on this thread, but haven't been able to read all pages. However, after reading over half the thread and googling, i've yet not been able to find the answer to my question, so hope someone can explain this to me, and I'm sorry if this have already been asked previously.

I'm looking at this BMS to replace my none-smart BMS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/14S-51V-60A-40A-30A-Smart-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-BMS-UART-RS485/113831902309?var=414053333234
It comes with either UART and RS485, or with UART only.
I only need to program it once from the computer (as i've read it's not fully programmable from the phone/trough BT?), and after that i'll only need the BT module to monitor it.
But what i can't figure out, is why does it seem that most people buy the dual communication BMS and yet only the UART/BT module for it? Why pay extra for RS485 that will never be used? Isn't RS485 only an alternative for UART, or am i missing something here...?

Also, assuming it's using poor FETs, and the 20-60A BMS' are all identical other then the number of FETs installed, would it be wise to buy the 20A version instead and simply replace or install more FETs before use?
 
The JBD models from AliExpress like I pictured above only have a UART interface. The PC software does have more parameters available, such as temperature limits. I don't have any experience with the ebay model you linked, but I have the same assumption that the RS485 is an alternative to UART like you said, and seems unnecessary unless you have some custom plans for it.

I just bought the 60A version as safe overhead since I use only half for now. ElectricGod does buy the lower current models that have fewer FETs, and replaces them documented here.
 
thundercamel said:
There does seem to be some sort of conformal coating over that end of the board, up to the main mosfets. I did try to find a similar diode before my last post, but the layouts are pretty different.

Thank you so much for your cooperation, Thunder.

My board is the v1.1...

I was checking the board to "create" the schematic and I realized there is 7133-1 (3.3v @30mA) regulator in the path. The highest input voltage that it can deal is 24v. So, I will add a 4.7v zener and it will probably solve the "problem".

One more time, thank you for all.

Regards,

Pedro Rosa.
 
I could not really find an answer for this, what is the best quality BMS that is available today?

I would need a 13S 30A or similar for a new battery build...

Price is not really the priority but quality and the possibility to monitor battery stats
 
pomah said:
I could not really find an answer for this, what is the best quality BMS that is available today?
Best to start a new thread for this question, rather than derail this one which has a useful narrow focus.

and define your needs more specifically there to get better answers put right in the title

 
My 300A smart BMS bought from ICGOGOGO has started to fault, reason is that cell1 is seemingly dropping to nearly zero volt. It’s on and off at random. Anyone else got the same issues? I’d guess a poor connection would be less digital (and go to zero) so i suspect it is unfixable.
 
first i would start checking connections, also on the board. might be a dodgy connection on the board as well.
 
dont feel, measure.
 
Hi, guys, how are you doing?

Let me ask you a thing: I would like to buy a new BMS to replace the old one (that fried during the firmware update). This seller has some different versions (20, 30, 40 and 60A). So, my question is: if I choose the 20A and replace all chinese mosfets, will I get a higher current rate (replacing, for example, to IFRP4110)?

The difference between 20 to 60A is US$10 but I don't know if the mosfets used in the 60A version are really good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14S-51V-60...hash=item1a80e8fc65:m:mLuTrBB5aJpndp0uG1fCtwQ

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Pedro Rosa.
 
Hi guys,
you have a lot of experience with chinese BMS so I think you can give me some advice.

I try some upgrade on 4S80A smart BMS, I use external fet and external resistor and now I can balancing without problem over 1A/cell. I try this upragede on 8S/12S and 16S version and I see one fault.

During balancing on 4S cell voltage is stable without fluctuations, but 8S 12S 16S during balancing with my upgrade some cells increases voltage without reason. Increase is about 50mV and it´s fake, only for 1-2 second but BMS set ON resistor on this cell.

Anyone have an idea why these increases are happening?

Thanks a lot
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20191113_100306 [1600x1200].jpg
    IMG_20191113_100306 [1600x1200].jpg
    225.7 KB · Views: 4,340
  • IMG_20191113_100251 [1600x1200].jpg
    IMG_20191113_100251 [1600x1200].jpg
    135 KB · Views: 4,340
Nice mods. I've been chasing a similar problem, just with group 11 on my wife's BMS. During balancing I caught a screenshot of group 11 reading 17mV higher than it actually was, confirmed with my meter connected to group 11 at the same time. I don't think the problem ever happens when the BMS is not balancing.

Balancing off:
NpXaIqRAnKSpAayIFT9X-wirJUJR79KwPpoHW_7BbZB1POLZtOqaXEVUichbkpK2Olxg77vU0KTY3YVqs2l7kvjtHT3LFhCScu3Lt1sAQtCfSPnGYbBWk1dBaBAnreBduXxr9z3CyUShlMXwQ4tmzOuAhxQUBW20q3ISUGRVo4P0LCX1y66yPh6TQ15Wd3RDV1dNCqJcR1eyJhY2ZzM2DKZgIjQxPpDyWNUw-7nz9D2meJW6RoJUD9OSQmmGCB6sWZE7hFw92rklb2B9G7bsbTygDkDsJuc_yBp5QX2vol1qDZEhigAo5cFja7ottf2c-v1CiCeasMF3r2ozwESklvjIlkngFSdySiS_rpQoznaZn_sbLLM58n1kA7vlEg-ZoBulh5Di0h6i0pzB0MrlJ7cSsdlOqEG7x_yrZuLHGUdS-biDE8iVYbf0s0GrqTVB-OqNDEhY8Do9mcU7wNHzFca7MzudduEDaD60T1FsoZ6BxLUa4JiV-2_LGl7YM3JVptRad5ANITu1dN1cYAkT3-JaOkaytZoue8mPk3GCMr4Yt2wmdwfhpm-RZ-nyDAabioVYGidRgpa-UHcCawi2UGYqh1PSixnvkboEY4wxj0tfv_iO1CJhdYG7n6-_4D3kyDqT2jAnf75Q_9bCAF60ZN1GHV10QyXJYh5TfpDHeLOxD1Ry98_NMDjJWwD0zCChuoCLE2668WiLwv3PBOOjM6zwPcRvyzgI-SRyj_mKRSspri0=w1006-h629-no


Static balancing on without charging, just 10 minutes later:
pCVkDxnClbr8uC9TJpGye8lbu6ZomsHNgr3ANr_s1T6mWRMezmw58-X1lWGQtIh0uO-JmRSAZdHgrGUJ4coNLCtn_WA5OnQAWECd3vadmiVjZhw2KYf197u0gA9sgHBOabjnOtT9KENn7HI5hWmiFKbB5DKY7nzxwXY9sZ_6cqO3Hi_rGynnPlO6CDCDcPwv1V-bQQqV6FUBwjMUL0AVuAMqS7tzL9UM38JDeL0hkVFY2ghDSItyZcX_zJR5sUwP2cqa9u8qRUszFif88zbT3hMJseHcEtuWUh3xeOGUtKefnLDON6vlHmPEIgUgIHPk1D7ZreQJQ2WwariHrnjxHKdmnw57sF_TEG5CKijW_zo_YN2bYhqqCbR6w_CIe9jJr9JYt0-iwWEHsfXV-QxE-sx1-UXd-O4HG4P9G6Eh34jpZlTEKSYez_6wq2k0WP4pMCB9VdkCT8rBQdYRad9Af-fTwJOQgodjamgLM2I2YPkdF2eJS7j0k3hyzdY2Q7EWuLTqP9Xzre23SZ5Bptf7srKpjwvH6HwCfMqeRYw_xSJFULaCet0syl9QVE7zNEmBHw6vTJDjE1PU1oMTFqiHHQGHguq6BQlT0qFPI_SupYQ4iIabg_cuRQpgzCL03ycABn2QIWskwNByXEeYT6F_6_6X7ZNs3p6VcV5RYAsFeaBGgx4u_l9hpg_wYKt9nm6AlSykbCkOdJ4JZC8lPJgeZRL0_mOrDtfbDb9TvuS5zVl9QCw=w1006-h629-no
 
Basically the whole time, my meter showed that group 11's voltage was 4.165. I turned off the balancing right after that screenshot, since it was balancing 11 sometimes when it should have been balancing everything but 11, and the voltage reading went right back to 4.165.
 
Hi, newbie to bluetooth bms and still havent read whole discussion, but:

Has anyone come up with a way to increase range for the bluetooth?

I tried to mount this bluetooth on multi rotor drone, to properly see voltage levels, but the 'reception' is so bad, that the connection gets broken apart after like 5-6meters..

Has anyone else tested the bluetooth range for these bms'es? The model which im having seems to have really bad range or something is really interfering..

Was hoping for at least 10 meters of range or so..

Not sure whenever to look for other options (to remotely view cell levels) or just find a way how to improve the signal or change to 2.4ghz communication..

This is to see the cells dont go out of whack while in flight and also properly monitor temperature and voltage drop at various loads.
 
larsb said:
My 300A smart BMS bought from ICGOGOGO has started to fault, reason is that cell1 is seemingly dropping to nearly zero volt. It’s on and off at random. Anyone else got the same issues? I’d guess a poor connection would be less digital (and go to zero) so i suspect it is unfixable.
Closing the loop on this one:
I found the problem, one of the balancing wires had started to slide out of the connector shell. They are not the best quality.. still good news as the smart bms is up and running again.
 
Okami said:
This is to see the cells dont go out of whack while in flight
No need to watch BMS while flying, most do without completely.

Telemetry for pack level only, just be sure balanced before flying.

 
larsb said:
larsb said:
My 300A smart BMS bought from ICGOGOGO has started to fault, reason is that cell1 is seemingly dropping to nearly zero volt. It’s on and off at random. Anyone else got the same issues? I’d guess a poor connection would be less digital (and go to zero) so i suspect it is unfixable.
Closing the loop on this one:
I found the problem, one of the balancing wires had started to slide out of the connector shell. They are not the best quality.. still good news as the smart bms is up and running again.
flippy said:
first i would start checking connections, also on the board. might be a dodgy connection on the board as well.


told you. i usually put some hot snot on the wires and connectors to prevent them fom moving.
 
Back
Top