jeff.page.rides
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2019
- Messages
- 295
buba said:
Maybe one of my tsdz2 has a bad cadence sensor in the motor
TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)
- Thread starter casainho
- Start date
Maybe one of my tsdz2 has a bad cadence sensor in the motor
danielson said:
Did some testing today and found gatorseans information was correct for my motor however connecting red to blue will not power the motor. I tried connecting red, blue and black to the corresponding wires on the LCD and although the LCD would turn on still no power from the motor. I had to connect the RX and TX wires to the lcd brown and yellow wires before the motor would run and it seemed glitchy but have more to do another time.
Update.
I ended up installing standard 52v firmware and was able to get it to work by connecting blue to red. The power seemed around level 3 but default 25km speed limit was in place. I tried connecting the LCD again and adjusting the speed then removing the LCD but the result was the same. I ended up just putting the VLCD5 on so I can adjust settings.
Dirkro
10 W
buba said:
I installed 0.20Beta1 Yesterday from Github
Did cadence sensor calibration / advance mode during setup,
My cadence is shown OK, a little bit flickering up and down ( +/- 2)
Was working fine on first test drive, working very smooth and nice!
Was a little confused by the changed Street mode handling.
One question:
I used standard settings for assistance. But swiched on MTB Mode.
Is the MTB Mode something on top of the other assistance modes or working only seperatly.
If on top , which kind of assistance is recomended to cooperate with this?
Flashed both my displays (850C) with the latest beta 3 version of the OSF. I use throttle, but when activated it gives me a temperatur warning. First the yellow one, and then the red one.
I haven't put the motor into the bicycle yet, so I just connected the battery, throttle and so on.
Whilst throttle is enabled, the temp feature is disabled.
So my question is: why does it still give me a temperatur warning?
Else everything works as expected. Hyped for my finished bike, not gonna lie
Ride on folks!
I haven't put the motor into the bicycle yet, so I just connected the battery, throttle and so on.
Whilst throttle is enabled, the temp feature is disabled.
So my question is: why does it still give me a temperatur warning?
Else everything works as expected. Hyped for my finished bike, not gonna lie
Ride on folks!
Hi Buba,
It is good to see that all is well with you!
Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.
Regards!
It is good to see that all is well with you!
buba said:
Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.
Regards!
maximusdm said:
My guess is he uses the maximum amount of power the motor can sustain without overheating + a different chain ring (so the motor spins at higher rpm, therefore being more efficient) + a high gear on the back wheel. So motor spins at high rpm, and power goes to a high gear. He might be using 29" tires with street profile, so less rolling resistance than you might have. Also, he might have the 750w version powered by a 52v battery, giving even more power to the motor.
I can post my results on friday or saturday, depending on how much time I have at hand. I'm running 52v and 750w, with a standard 42T chain ring (comes with motor). Available chain rings go down to 32T.
Installed lm35dz sensor and it's working nicely. Showing 23C on room temperature. Interesting thing is that temperature starts rising immediatelly when i engage walking mode.
While having motor open I've also installed gel pads. It's more like a thick pad of clay than gel. I have left one side of the plastic foil on so it doesn't stick to the casing. It's easily pliable so it conformed to the casing when pushed a bit harder. Not sure how efficient will it be but it's better than nothing.
I replaced the rubber sealant where the wires protrude from controller to the side where chainrinf is with high temperature silicone. Used the same silicone to seal the cover on that side as well. Since that rubber/silicone sealant is easy to remove I'm thinking about sealing the motor cover as well just to be sure.
In the mean time waiting for the sw102 to arive. It's pain in the butt to go through unmarked lcd3 menus.
While having motor open I've also installed gel pads. It's more like a thick pad of clay than gel. I have left one side of the plastic foil on so it doesn't stick to the casing. It's easily pliable so it conformed to the casing when pushed a bit harder. Not sure how efficient will it be but it's better than nothing.
I replaced the rubber sealant where the wires protrude from controller to the side where chainrinf is with high temperature silicone. Used the same silicone to seal the cover on that side as well. Since that rubber/silicone sealant is easy to remove I'm thinking about sealing the motor cover as well just to be sure.
In the mean time waiting for the sw102 to arive. It's pain in the butt to go through unmarked lcd3 menus.
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
New firmware version for 850C dispaly, download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases/tag/850C_v0.5.0-beta.5
Changelog beta.5:
- graphs now correctly show history data of last 15 minutes
- all graphs are now stored on RAM, meaning you can switch between each one of the thirteen and see the last 15 minutes of history
- added battery current to customized field and graphs
- previous customized field index is now stored between power ups
- warning and error thresholds now activated on the motor temperature (see next picture: motor_temperature_min_value_to_limit = 55 and motor_temperature_max_value_to_limit = 65)
Changelog beta.5:
- graphs now correctly show history data of last 15 minutes
- all graphs are now stored on RAM, meaning you can switch between each one of the thirteen and see the last 15 minutes of history
- added battery current to customized field and graphs
- previous customized field index is now stored between power ups
- warning and error thresholds now activated on the motor temperature (see next picture: motor_temperature_min_value_to_limit = 55 and motor_temperature_max_value_to_limit = 65)
James Broadhurst
100 W
Trip is definitely mph on mine and I’ll be right disappointed if speed isn’t mph as well!mikec1953 said:
jeff.page.rides said:
I do not think there is anything wrong with your cadence sensor. I believe there is simply a difference in how the firmware is built. It seems that when using Windows and the latest SDCC it works. But when using Linux and SDCC (possibly with some space optimizations) it does not work... I am not confirming this to be the problem but it sure does seem like it. Will update soon.
Dirkro said:
So it seems that the cadence is okay for you using the official firmware version. Let me know if you get any problems!
Dirkro said:
Glad to hear! I hope you quickly got used to it!
Dirkro said:
E-MTB Mode is a standalone riding mode and is isolated from the other modes. You can use it whenever you need a very responsive mode with access to the entire power range in one single mode.
There are no recommendation per se, just try it out and configure so it suits your riding style
maximusdm said:
Thank you!
I have a really good 52 V battery (maintains high nominal voltage for a long time) with a 52 teeth crank on a 36 V motor. Custom made bike with minimal resistance and really good tires. Using E-MTB exclusively as it does work well with my torque sensor. Depending on gearing, battery, system and bike setup you should be able to get above 50 kph or 31 mph.
Cheers!
Snoopz said:
One of the perks of living where winters get really cold with an overall high air density is that the motor is kept cooler. So that helps me somewhat.
There is no difference between the 250/350/500/750 W versions of the TSDZ2. The only difference in the hardware is what type of motor you might have: 36 or 48 V. The controller is the same for all versions.
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
New firmware version for 850C dispaly, download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases/tag/850C_v0.5.0-beta.6
Changelog beta.6:
- corrected issue where speed were show always in kph, even with imperial units
- small arrow indicator on configurations menu now is draw correctly
Changelog beta.6:
- corrected issue where speed were show always in kph, even with imperial units
- small arrow indicator on configurations menu now is draw correctly
mikec1953 said:
Dirkro
10 W
buba said:Dirkro said:
So it seems that the cadence is okay for you using the official firmware version. Let me know if you get any problems!
Dirkro said:
Glad to hear! I hope you quickly got used to it!
Dirkro said:
E-MTB Mode is a standalone riding mode and is isolated from the other modes. You can use it whenever you need a very responsive mode with access to the entire power range in one single mode.
There are no recommendation per se, just try it out and configure so it suits your riding style
Sorry, then I have some questions with the modes:
Should I only enable one mode in the configuration?
If so, what will happen if I will enable two different modes?
If not, How to change from mainscreen? I did not find the method to swich!
Regarding MTB Mode: just to ned to put on the sensitiveness. Nothing to change with the assistance butons right?
I am so curious to get it running!
James Broadhurst
100 W
Just flashed beta.5 bootload. Trip and odometer both fixed at 0.0, current is working fine. Will try beta.6casainho said:
Waynemarlow
10 kW
If you set 1 on any mode in the setup, the unit will put 0 in the other two modes ie as soon as you pick one of the modes the others are disabled.Dirkro said:
Emtb is effectively a max 10th level, if you set enable ( 1) in the setup field for EMtb, you get the number of levels you have set + 1
Emtb is enable to range from 0 Watts to max Watts on the one setting. I've found best to set up by raising /lowering the sensitivity until with maximum pedal input you get maximum motor watts. If you think you are easily getting max watts ( you will have set the max amps in the setup initially amps x volts = watts ) then lower your sensitivity. Its a bit trial and error but doesn't take long. I've found Emtb best when riding on your own and you just want an easy blast. Emtb is also good if you want to limit max power, just keep lowering the sensitivity until you reach max watts with max input from yourself to a level which is comfortable to ride with.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
buba said:
Buba, have you tried a 48V battery in comparison with your 52V as regards to cadence levels. My 48V set on standard numbers will peak out at about 90 - 95rpm before its starts to back the motor off. Is the 52Volt worth the extra batteries ( do you get any cadence speed gains ) or can I change the motor numbers in the advance setting to compensate.
Thanks for all your work.
James Broadhurst
100 W
Just flashed v0.5.0-beta.6-bootloader and still have no odometer & trip recording. Speed is ok set at mph.
[/quote]
One of the perks of living where winters get really cold with an overall high air density is that the motor is kept cooler. So that helps me somewhat.
There is no difference between the 250/350/500/750 W versions of the TSDZ2. The only difference in the hardware is what type of motor you might have: 36 or 48 V. The controller is the same for all versions.
[/quote]
How can't there be a difference in 250/350/500 and 750w? That statement contradicts itself. Would be like saying there isn't a difference between a kawasaki ninja with 200ps and a Honda with 50. In terms of raw power output.
Bredband = my guess is Sweden? Since it's bredbånd in Norway. And if it's Sweden, next guess is Northern Sweden. Might aswell be northern Norway, who knows. Since you already have a "cold winter", and here in the west of Norway it's not cold at all (like what, 4 degrees or so).
Cheers
One of the perks of living where winters get really cold with an overall high air density is that the motor is kept cooler. So that helps me somewhat.
There is no difference between the 250/350/500/750 W versions of the TSDZ2. The only difference in the hardware is what type of motor you might have: 36 or 48 V. The controller is the same for all versions.
[/quote]
How can't there be a difference in 250/350/500 and 750w? That statement contradicts itself. Would be like saying there isn't a difference between a kawasaki ninja with 200ps and a Honda with 50. In terms of raw power output.
Bredband = my guess is Sweden? Since it's bredbånd in Norway. And if it's Sweden, next guess is Northern Sweden. Might aswell be northern Norway, who knows. Since you already have a "cold winter", and here in the west of Norway it's not cold at all (like what, 4 degrees or so).
Cheers
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