E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

My bike is 6 yrears old this month. 12,591 miles. Here's a list of all failures I've had.

1. RH swing arm bearing. $16

If I did that it wouldn't look pretty. Good thing I can't be bothered.

Cheers

[st35326]

My bike is 6 yrears old this month. 12,591 miles. Here's a list of all failures I've had.

1. RH swing arm bearing. $16

Thats incredible. Are these not the most high quality Ebikes you can get?

[Theodore Voltaire]

My bike is 6 yrears old this month. 12,591 miles. Here's a list of all failures I've had.

1. RH swing arm bearing. $16

Thats incredible. Are these not the most high quality Ebikes you can get?

Plus fastest

[RhombusB52]

Here's an exclusive, just for us, first look from inside the secretive biknut skunk works of my new Fox Dropper external 4" seat post. Not fully installed yet, lacking the cable, and lever. This is all the way down. Not quite as low as I would like, but haven't tried it yet. I don't think you could use this post with a stock shock with remote reservoir, without the post sitting very high in the frame. The one in Rix link would definitely fit better, and best as I can tell, I'm not going to be able to use the full 4" lift with the seat sitting this high when it's all the way down.

Nice job. Well done. Love those mudguards.!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Theodore Voltaire]

Here's an exclusive, just for us, first look from inside the secretive biknut skunk works of my new Fox Dropper external 4" seat post. Not fully installed yet, lacking the cable, and lever. This is all the way down. Not quite as low as I would like, but haven't tried it yet. I don't think you could use this post with a stock shock with remote reservoir, without the post sitting very high in the frame. The one in Rix link would definitely fit better, and best as I can tell, I'm not going to be able to use the full 4" lift with the seat sitting this high when it's all the way down.

Nice job. Well done. Love those mudguards.!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you Rhombus, I've tried several versions over the years, and these are the best yet.

If anyone wants to make fenders for their bike I'm happy to share where I bought the hardware.

[KarlJ]

Today I made up a harness to connect the stock charger and the new 11A charger in parallel with the powercon connectors i bought for ~$7.5 AUD
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3X-1-set-Po ... 2749.l2649

Rather than mod the bike, I used a belt sander / linisher to reduce the OD of the powercon female end in the bike by around 1mm, it survived this will no ill effects and was a tight fit but the holes lined up to the ones drilled into the frame for fixing screws.

Nothing went bang when i connected everything together and I can now charge at 1500W with the two chargers combined, still less than the 0.5C the *std* charge rate for the MJ1 3500mAh cells 22S10P.

charged from around 30% SOC to 85% SOC the pack rose 1 Deg C from 42DegC to 43Deg C.

Pretty happy with those results and the el cheapo Powercon connectors are a HUGE improvement on the stock XLR which got very warm with even the stock charger 5-6A.

I really don't know how anyone tolerated the stock B52 LiFeP04 pack and its miserable 1200-1300Wh..... I'd be done in 20kms and very disappointed. Even the *NEW* 2000Wh pack from Stealth seems paltry next to DIY 18650 packs and despite mine only being 22S10P and 2772Wh max - call it 2500Wh at 90V / 90% and usable at 2kWh using 80% of the available should give a long lived unit.

Can't wait to build the next pack, just need to cover another 800x charge to 90% discharge to 20% cycles at 30kms a throw = 24,000kms

Now done almost 1500kms since ownership and will hit 4000kms total on the bike soon - enjoying every minute of it!

Lashed out and bought an MT5 front brake as still not happy with the feel on the OEM MT2 even after probike shop has had a couple of goes at it.
$150 from lordgun and a couple of sets of pads from ebay at ~$7/set, one ceramic and the other sintered to try, see if i can't get this thing stopping with some confidence.
I would have done the Shimano SAINT as recommended but as i'd need to do both ends for matching levers and it was a ~$5-600 exercise which is tough to justify for me ATM... (I'll regret that when it hit something )

[Theodore Voltaire]

I really don't know how anyone tolerated the stock B52 LiFeP04 pack and its miserable 1200-1300Wh..... I'd be done in 20kms and very disappointed. Even the *NEW* 2000Wh pack from Stealth seems paltry next to DIY 18650 packs and despite mine only being 22S10P and 2772Wh max - call it 2500Wh at 90V / 90% and usable at 2kWh using 80% of the available should give a long lived unit.

Can't wait to build the next pack, just need to cover another 800x charge to 90% discharge to 20% cycles at 30kms a throw = 24,000kms

Now done almost 1500kms since ownership and will hit 4000kms total on the bike soon - enjoying every minute of it!

I heard that. I could suck my battery dry in 17 miles (27 Kms). Even my 24ah is still not enough. I'm starting to warm up to the idea of building my own battery pack next time.

[KarlJ]

[/quote]
I heard that. I could suck my battery dry in 17 miles (27 Kms). Even my 24ah is still not enough. I'm starting to warm up to the idea of building my own battery pack next time.
[/quote]

piece of cake! , cant wait to see your build

[1abv]

Today I made up a harness to connect the stock charger and the new 11A charger in parallel with the powercon connectors i bought for ~$7.5 AUD
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3X-1-set-Po ... 2749.l2649

Rather than mod the bike, I used a belt sander / linisher to reduce the OD of the powercon female end in the bike by around 1mm, it survived this will no ill effects and was a tight fit but the holes lined up to the ones drilled into the frame for fixing screws.

Nothing went bang when i connected everything together and I can now charge at 1500W with the two chargers combined, still less than the 0.5C the *std* charge rate for the MJ1 3500mAh cells 22S10P.

charged from around 30% SOC to 85% SOC the pack rose 1 Deg C from 42DegC to 43Deg C.

Pretty happy with those results and the el cheapo Powercon connectors are a HUGE improvement on the stock XLR which got very warm with even the stock charger 5-6A.

I really don't know how anyone tolerated the stock B52 LiFeP04 pack and its miserable 1200-1300Wh..... I'd be done in 20kms and very disappointed. Even the *NEW* 2000Wh pack from Stealth seems paltry next to DIY 18650 packs and despite mine only being 22S10P and 2772Wh max - call it 2500Wh at 90V / 90% and usable at 2kWh using 80% of the available should give a long lived unit.

Can't wait to build the next pack, just need to cover another 800x charge to 90% discharge to 20% cycles at 30kms a throw = 24,000kms

Now done almost 1500kms since ownership and will hit 4000kms total on the bike soon - enjoying every minute of it!

Lashed out and bought an MT5 front brake as still not happy with the feel on the OEM MT2 even after probike shop has had a couple of goes at it.
$150 from lordgun and a couple of sets of pads from ebay at ~$7/set, one ceramic and the other sintered to try, see if i can't get this thing stopping with some confidence.
I would have done the Shimano SAINT as recommended but as i'd need to do both ends for matching levers and it was a ~$5-600 exercise which is tough to justify for me ATM... (I'll regret that when it hit something )

Karl,
I have gone down the exact path that you are. I never got the Maguras to work with confidence.I tried bleeding, I tried both ceramic and sintered pads and all I did was wear them out and the rotors with quickness. The stopping power and the lever feel was never to my liking. The levers traveled too much before initial bite. If you look on the thread there was some posts about how people did some mods to make the adjustment on the Maguras work better. When I switched to the Saints with the ICE rotors, from the first time I pulled the levers they were simply in a different league then the mt5's I had on my bike. I do 90% off road and a lot of steep up and down hills. For me having a bike that weighs as much as a bomber and also the ability to stop when and how I want justified the cost.. Maybe you will dig the pads but the Maguras didn't work out for me. BTW the saint rotors and pads last much longer than the Maguras for me. When Installed the Saints I did have to get some spacers for the rear to get them to fit. You can pick them up at a bike shop. They should have varied thickness spacers. Good Luck!

[KarlJ]

did my longest ride to date at 70kms, used 27 out of 35AH so could have easily made 100kms, at this point the rear tyre had no more blocks left so i put on a crazy bob......
DOH! couldnt get it off, so cut it with a hacksaw.....if only I knew the construction, i would have run it to the canvas. The crazy bob is garbage next to the Denzel-Bike 24x3" heavy artillery in comparison to a sling shot IMHO and search as i may, the airfare to the states is cheaper than freight on that bad boy from the couple of US sellers of the tyre and China fellas dont seem to respond to emails.
http://www.eastgem.net/tire-24x3.html

In doing this lot i gave the chain a thorough birthday and I reckon its FUBAR , did I read 3/32 and 94 (half) links?

[KarlJ]

I take it all back!
The Crazy Bob tyres use 25% less battery power for the same distance -work ride 30kms now 15AH vs 20AH before, the bike feels faster everywhere- acceleration and top speed, handles better.
Carrying a tin of spray tyre sealant in backpack for good measure and will get some tyre liners

[st35326]

I ran Crazy Bob's for years on 21s. But the every other month flat was just becoming too much hassle. Decided to get a real rim/ tire and a bigger (80 amp continuous) controller with Flux weakening to more than make up for the heavier wheel. Depending on how my Bomber runs compared to another heavily modded mid drive of an acquaintance, I may go 22s or 23s for some additional speed. Unrelated, I noticed that regen can be turned up considerably with all the additional inertia of this wheel tire combo.

[KarlJ]

which controller do you run now?
I run 22S and charge to max 90V typically even less for commuting 88V ...
dont want to break the stock controller running 92.4V

[FL bomber]

What's the easiest way to replace the rivet nuts on battery compartment? Would a small dab of J-B weld work, to stop them from spinning. Also need a few button head bolts.. I know they are M6 but are they fine threaded and what length to order?
st35326... That Excel rim setup looks impressive.
That's a 17in rim.. what size spokes?

[KarlJ]

Running some numbers on the MJ1 22S10P 35AH 22S battery.

Flogged it hard all the way to work yesterday 30kms
It started at 9 deg C overninght parked outside to cool off and finished at 35 degC after a discharge of 19.5AH of the available 32Ah (charged to ~90% @90V and finished at ~80V)
Pack has 220 cells at ~50g each hence lets call it 11kgs.
I'm calling the specific heat 1 based on this http://jes.ecsdl.org/content/146/3/947 (0.96 discharged and 1.04 charged)
I'm using then 4186J / kg/deg giving a wasted energy of 4186 x 11kgs x 26deg = 1652880J which when converted to Wh is 459W.

Obviously this is wasted energy otherwise realisable if the discharge rate was much slower than 7A/cell for 30mins.

given there is a theoretical 2772Wh less 10% for lower SOC = 2494Wh and the used energy was 1657 and 459W of heat.
leaves it with 400Wh remaining....

I guess the maths doesnt matter but i'm curious where i've gone wrong as 3.64V does not correlate to 10% SOC

[Cowardlyduck]

Not sure where you went wrong, but I know that cooler temps have a real negative impact and 25-35C is the sweet spot for extracting the most energy so your 'wasted' energy as heat probably actually helped the pack perform better than otherwise.

Cheers

[KarlJ]

Vbox service done thanks to those who have posted info on the thread.
not much in the way of gunk came out, used CRC 5.56 as "wash" as suggested RP7 or similar
30mls grease a hole, bike only having 3500kms on it when i bought it and 5000kms now 2013 model, my guess is it had never been done before

box is working much better now, thinking i should do another change in another 1000kms or so (3 weeks) as the new grease should break down whatever old hard stuff is in there.

Used this stuff as readily available here in Australia - not sure if its 100% but sure better than what it had
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PENRITE-MOT ... 2749.l2649
about 30mls per hole

[KarlJ]

You know, we talk a fair bit here about not drawing attention from the cops, but I'm curious, how many here have actually been stopped by the cops? What happened?

If you haven't, how often do general punters ask about what you're riding? Are they interested or suspicious?

I went in to my local police station to have an affidavit signed, (still fighting in the family court to see my kids after 18 months). Senior Sargent didn't even bat an eyelid even after I said I was riding the bike 30kms each way to work and back and in fact said if I ever needed someone to talk to I should swing by the station. Obviously familiar with the family court disaster that it is and the impact on those stuck in it. What a champion!

I think if/ when i get caught they really wont know what to do/say and i'll get a please dont do that again ....

[KarlJ]

To anyone running the ANT BT BMS..... thanks to a small miracle they now have an app for iphone in English!
hence can make changes to the settings without questioning the translation or trying to get the software to work on android which was painful

[st35326]

which controller do you run now?
I run 22S and charge to max 90V typically even less for commuting 88V ...
dont want to break the stock controller running 92.4V

Sabvoton 72150

My stock controller is in the trash

[st35326]

What's the easiest way to replace the rivet nuts on battery compartment? Would a small dab of J-B weld work, to stop them from spinning. Also need a few button head bolts.. I know they are M6 but are they fine threaded and what length to order?
st35326... That Excel rim setup looks impressive.
That's a 17in rim.. what size spokes?

19" Excel rim

[st35326]

Does anyone have an SKF part numbers for the two non identical bearings inside the Bombers 5304 motor? I've got an old spare I want to rebuild but want to avoid pressing in junk bearings.


Upadte, the proper SFK bearing part number for the 5304 on the Bomber is:

6005-2RSH
6004-2RSH

[Allex]

Does anyone have an SKF part numbers for the two non identical bearings inside the Bombers 5304 motor? Ive got an old spare I want to rebuild but want to avoid pressing in junk bearings.

End of the video

[KarlJ]

should be standard M6 bolts, normal thread pitch and bout 1" long should be fine

[KarlJ]

Long ride plans yesterday ruined by what appears to be poor quality manufacturing and poor design

F5C811D5-2F60-441F-8004-6F383EDBADA5.jpeg (80.32 KiB) Viewed 4614 times

Seat assembly failure at the two attach points. Bike has 5260kms on the dial as total 2770 of which are mine.

Holes drilled within 1.25d of the edge of the material, bolts too short, no washers used on Allen key (outside) side. Where the material is folded into the square only tack welds at the ends vs fillet two edges and grind back.

I’m hoping despite me not being the first owner that Stealth will repair it. After all this is 100% manufacturing and design flaw, not caused by abuse or misuse.