QS 3000w midmotor

The figures you have are unrealistic. 50turns in a winding with 200A capability won’t be likely to happen in a motor size that is found here on ES. More like 10 turns 400A max

This paper is a good read, 100deg C, all d-axis current: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Yuriy_Zhilichev2/publication/224360700_Analysis_of_Permanent_Magnet_Demagnetization_Accounting_for_Minor_B-H_Curves/links/56ed554608ae4b8b5e73fe5b/Analysis-of-Permanent-Magnet-Demagnetization-Accounting-for-Minor-B-H-Curves.pdf
24ACA134-3141-4BB9-881B-365E689F1FA0.png
2% is lost in this example but at a really high temperature, 100 degrees in the magnets could damage them without outside field and the glue on surface mount magnets would be so soft that they might fly :wink:

Interesting that the d-axis is considered to be worst case as that is the field weakening axis so field weakening makes a difference, not only due to lower efficiency/higher temperature.
 
:bigthumb:
so in essence:
There is a risk, but it can not considered separated from the thermal overload.
So, for practical use, it's still safe to play with settings as long as the motor des not go tooo hot.
OK?
And while playing with flux weakening params, it may be wise not to push heat to the edge, to avoid both stressors coming together.
 
Would be nice if we could relate those parameters to their physical meanings.
Educated guess is better than blind guess.
But I did not manage to understand them thus far.
I just see some dimsionless figures as input parameters into a black box, with some rough idea what might come out :confused:

Same with the phase current figure.
Well, for the last one, we may at least assume some proportionality with just the sacilng factor unknown, I suppose :?

There is a post from you
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95969&p=1488169&hilit=flux#p1488169
with some quite larger figures than in the manual.
It shows a tzqs email in the corner. So we can consider them as authoritative and still safe?

Considering thread hygiene - should we shift this clarification to the Votol thread?
 
All I know about flux weakening is that experiences with SPM motors, especially DD hub motors, do not translate to IPM motors. Totally different beasts. Also that flux weakening may be necessary across the entire RPM range of a IPM to unlock the best performance.

The figures from QS are probably trustworthy and it would be a good idea to follow their specs and controller recommendations when just starting out. Once you get it going then you can work on unlocking the secrets. It's a pretty serious motorcycle/scooter motor and the hard part is going to be to something together that can handle it yet still be relatively light weight.
 
So flux weakening compensation for this motor, is set to 64 pr. instruction from QS ?? (votol 150 and qs mid drive 3000)
And max 3000 for flux weakening value, for mid and high settings ??
 
... and max 230 in the % fields?

180 A in the busbar current at Pg1 and 220 A in the boost aka sport current at pg2, if you want to retain warranty
(these figures are from the AliExpress Ad)
and 250 A if you'd risk warranty but still hope not to burn your equipment?

which times for sport mode logout and recovery?
30 / 30 s as in the vector specs?
and maybe less logout / more recovery if I try larger values in the other fields, to be on the safe side in terms of thermal safety margin?

And keep 9960 in phase current and stop thinking about how this translates to Amperes?
 
larsb said:
Well since your asking in the wrong thread.. the votol thread already has screenshots. There’s no magic in the settings, only logic
Click to expand...

And the other thread is about the controller and not motor. Come on...
They are sold together as a kit. Then there should be a dedicated "qs kit thread"
 
larsb said:
Well since your asking in the wrong thread..
Click to expand...

Of course we are happy if you post it there :D
Or shall we repeat our plea over there?

larsb said:
the votol thread already has screenshots.
Click to expand...

Oh, yes, shots from so many people, and valuable comments from master @larsb

But I scanned the whole votol thread, and I fund just a half a Page2.
Flux weakening, valuable, indeed.

larsb said:
There’s no magic in the settings, only logic
Click to expand...

OK, looks like Mr Professor wants to keep us struggling.
Never mind. Nobody can urge him to share his full knowledge.
Would I? I'm not sure.
Definitely not if I were in sth like a racing business...
 
What i am trying to tell you is that the emperor has no clothes..
I know nothing that can’t be read in the manual. Sorry! If you read it then you’ll know as much as i do.

Heck, you’ll probably even find things i never realised.
May the force be with you! :bolt:
 
Finally got my build up and running.
Full size KTM 250 exc, QS3000, Nucular 24f. 18s 3kw Chevy volt.
Recommend the new design, was able to bore the rear mount out to 16mm then mount it directly to the swing arm bolt. Perfect clearance of only 1mm away from the swing arm. Got the height right, then fabricated bracket for the front mount. Had motor installed in only several hours. New design also came with temp sensor installed(wasn’t requested) and 20mm 6 spline shaft for straight bolt on sprocket.
Something about this combo, sluggish off the line(500 phase amps). But really gets up and goes in the midrange. Can easily keep up with my friends on their 250’s. Current 11 front/60 rear will rocket thru to about 85kph with about 20kw peaks as the voltage rises.
Highest motor temp of about 62 degrees (tropical Australia summer f##ken hot) recorded on the Nuc controller.
Size, weight, functionality & efficiency of this controller is awesome. Just need to see if I can get the initial acceleration better. Vas needs to build a 36f with 750 phase amps.
Going to try a 10 front and a bit of field weakening to keep the same top speed.
 
Just did my first test run, of the QS 3000 and votol-em150 controller. This motor got some torque....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiO4ha6iSWw&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR0-1WRbz3jpipIMtvz3GWmiiAyu_jMoXt6j2WAA8ftDJ_HemQMri0zqibY
 
Stevebequik said:
Finally got my build up and running.
Full size KTM 250 exc, QS3000, Nucular 24f. 18s 3kw Chevy volt.
Recommend the new design, was able to bore the rear mount out to 16mm then mount it directly to the swing arm bolt. Perfect clearance of only 1mm away from the swing arm. Got the height right, then fabricated bracket for the front mount. Had motor installed in only several hours. New design also came with temp sensor installed(wasn’t requested) and 20mm 6 spline shaft for straight bolt on sprocket.
Something about this combo, sluggish off the line(500 phase amps). But really gets up and goes in the midrange. Can easily keep up with my friends on their 250’s. Current 11 front/60 rear will rocket thru to about 85kph with about 20kw peaks as the voltage rises.
Highest motor temp of about 62 degrees (tropical Australia summer f##ken hot) recorded on the Nuc controller.
Size, weight, functionality & efficiency of this controller is awesome. Just need to see if I can get the initial acceleration better. Vas needs to build a 36f with 750 phase amps.
Going to try a 10 front and a bit of field weakening to keep the same top speed.
Click to expand...

I am interested in what do you think when you have used it for a while?
I just bougt a KTM 200 exc without a motor, and I am thinking about what to use.
To be able to use QS3000 would be nice, but I am worried that it will be too weak?
 
Everybody will have different opinions about it. It will be a weak if you want to pull wheelies at 100km/h. It will be strong to spin wheel in low speeds if geared correctly. The lighter the bike the better performance.
Also take into account that it is not just motor which gives you good performance but controller and battery. So even if you install this motor it's performance depends on battery and controller to be used, and on gearing also.
If consider the money which this motor costs than there is almost no other options. It is light, small, and powerful motor.
Maybe you won't be using its full potential, because it can handle more than according manufacturer specs. Unless you install some other controller and powerful battery accordingly.
With low 8:1, 7:1 or 6:1 gearing you can have 250Nm-300Nm on rear wheel (depends on wheels diameter of course) and some 12kw - 17kw of electrical Kw. Can make it 20kw if have more money to spend to get more amps. So it's good 125cc and maybe some not powerful 250cc. So if you happy with considerably slow 125cc (fast enough, ~80km/h) than you should be happy with it's power. You can increase voltage if have option to do so and win some more power.
I will use it with 20S battery and stock controller.
 
Thanks, I plan to use car battery modules. They are 12s, and difficult to split up (welded connections, cells might be glued together). So either I use them as 24s, and get a controller to match that. Like APT96600, or maybe 96800 or 961000 if I can find one.
Or if I am able to take the modules apart, I might make them 20-22s and use my nucular 24fet (500A phase, 300A battery) I don't know if that is enough, or how much more the motor can take? (I really like the nucular, but I guess it may not be enough for this bike)

As long as I use it in the woods, I would probably be fine with 75-80km/h top speed. If I register it for the road I will want higher top speed
 
nucular 24fet (500A phase, 300A battery) is very enough, but up to 20s (90v). Maybe can be 21s, need to ask if is safe to go near top values on this controller, also it might depend if you use regen braking.

Regarding splitting modules or not. If you can accommodate unsplitted modules into frame and get 24s controller even better, more conventiant.

Both options are good just second one might be more powerful because bigger battery and more volts. Probably somewhat heavier and less compact if it plays any role.
 
I don’t think this motor needs more phase amps now. Nuc 24f 500a.
Tried speed mode and bike was uncontrollable from start. Have a grazed kneecap & shin to prove it.
Back to torque + speed.
Bank for buck, don’t think you can beat it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
    • Like
20x4 hub motor upgrade to 3000w kit info
Replies
12
Views
755
999zip999
999zip999
Coma11
  • Question
Sabvoton 72150 Ebrake throttle 0-5V locks wheel when activated (SOLVED)
Replies
1
Views
163
Coma11
Coma11
B
High Powered Motor Discussion...QS205 vs Cromotor vs Crystalyte H+55100
Replies
15
Views
261
DogDipstick
DogDipstick
H
500€ for electric motor QS260 3000W with sabvoton 72150 like new (~1500km) Belgium
Replies
0
Views
134
HassanBa
H
T
Qs 3000w hub best build
Replies
13
Views
893
gromike
G
Back
Top