Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

I recommend Nomex paper for the insulators. It is pretty puncture resistant compared to Kapton.

Ancient motor project from 2002 using Nomex paper to replace badly melted plastic insulators. This survived serious abuse and is still running today as far as I know.

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That should do it. On my rewind project from way back I used a dremel to radius the edges a little as they were razor sharp.
 
I just took the sharp edge off which is mostly on the end lamination so shouldn't be shorting to the next one. A hand file would work too, but so does JB Weld. On my original motor, the insulation melted and the sharp edges cut into the windings. Then smoke happened. I was trying to do everything I could to prevent a repeat.
 
Serious amount of copper winding there :thumb:
What amount of power (cont./peak) do you think you'll be able to put through it?
 
Electric God
I've been casually following this thread since the beginning but I may have missed it. Did you ever get to test the newest series of Revolt motors to compare to the old ones? I was under the impression there were basically 2 generations of these motors. I remember lots of people were disappointed with the first batch of them due to heat, inefficiency, quality etc. I thought somewhere in here you were getting the new generation to compare them to the old ones. kinda lost track in here which motor you are working on and rewinding and which ones were damaged requiring re-work.

It's been interesting watching this thread become an adventure in rewindings and multiple motor rebuilds. Thanks for the detailed documentation of what you are doing. I wish I had the patience and time to rewind motors. I got hooked on ES in the old days watching legends like Thud do awesome things with 80100s. Like many others I was super optimistic when revolt showed up because we all have been wishing for motorcycle powered RC style outrunners. I'd still love to see a test of the new generation in stock form. Did that already happen?
 
I apologize to senior members who have technical disagreements with OP ElectricGod. The moderators of endless-sphere have a difficult and thankless job of parsing what to allow to be posted, and what to delete.

I do not agree with everything that EG posts, and yet...he posts pictures and experiments of motors that exist. Even if I disagree with any particular assessment he has made, the raw data of posting pictures of the internals of existing motors has a value that is difficult to assess. The value of these pictures is high and it is rare.

The only thing that is more valuable than tear-down pics of available motors, is a posting of the technical data of motors/controllers/batteries under load.

If you disagree with EG's assessments, the best course of action is to purchase the same motor, and start your own thread. Then post the data from your experimental variations in order to prove your point. The OP always gets a preferential bias in moderating conflicts.

Please avoid personal attacks and personal evaluations. Sometimes brilliant people make a mistake, and sometimes an average person makes a brilliant observation. That being said, you should attack the principle (while providing a reference for your position on the issue), and avoid attacking the person...which leads to me needing to f*ck with all this b*llsh*t.

After you have stated your case, trust the reader to assess who is correct.
 
Sometimes it's not what you say, but how you say it.

Point about doubling the copper fill was if all other things equal, you could cut the copper resistance in half. But resistance heating (the limiting factor for power rating) will be a function of I2R. This means you could only increase the current by a factor of 1.4 and have the same heating. Not double.
 
Does that mean Revolt motors are complete crap? No...the E series are pretty good. The Pro series are OK. The Regular motors from the factory, pretty much suck. Expect to do work on them to make them EV ready.

People can make up their own mind:

If you think you can accept to open the new motor you just got, resolder the phase wires and replace the halls, then accept high losses and low performance then it’s possible to get a Revolt motor.

Otherwise, stay away and get something like a QS2000w mid motor instead. It’s better in every aspect.

@EG: do you own a revolt 120 ”E” motor or 160E ? If not then please restrain yourself from talking about things you don’t know anything about.

In your previous posts you have a summary about the quality of the motors you’ve got. I just quoted it in next post so that you remember and people don’t get confused.
 
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