Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

I´m trying to get this speedometer to work, together with the Votol Em-150... : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950308080.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5bc54c4dSniRso

Voltage, obvious work.... But the speed in not working. I have connected the white wire from the Votol to the speed tap on the display, but nothing happen.
Og and yes, i have checked "hall output" in the software...
Any clue..... Thanks


Update. I guess I have to try with one of the hall wires insted.
 

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Okay.... Got a little closer, i think.

The white wire from the controller is still connected to the "speed" tab on the display....
After i changed Pb9 to 13:Hall_smulat.... I kind of getting something. When giving throttle, the speedometer stays a 0kmh..... But if I turn my wheel by hand, the speedometer start showing the speed. Its like when I make some regenative braking with the motor (I can se the voltage is raising, the moment the speedometer is showing speed) It is working.
Anyone knows what these : "IO" "SW" "LA" "F" "u" "D" boxes does.... and could they have something to do about it ??

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
 
larsb said:
I’ve tried to use these without success.

Can only guess..
IO in/out?
SW switch?
LA ?
F function?
u ?
D ?
Click to expand...

According to the seller of the display. I Should take the "speed" Wire from the display , and connect to one of the phase wires. I dont know if this is true, or bad Chinglish, but I find that a little crazy ?
 
Normally it’s done by connecting one of the halls, this will give you a pulsing signal that can be used.

Connecting one of the phases will give a full battery voltage and lots of distortion - it’s not a logic signal..

I guess if you connect a sensorless motor to the speedo then only the phases can be connected.. i still don’t see it done that way.
 
larsb said:
Normally it’s done by connecting one of the halls, this will give you a pulsing signal that can be used.

Connecting one of the phases will give a full battery voltage and lots of distortion - it’s not a logic signal..

I guess if you connect a sensorless motor to the speedo then only the phases can be connected.. i still don’t see it done that way.
Click to expand...

I agree, thats where the "chinglish" comes in to play I think..... I think I try one of the hall sensor wires and se, what happens instead.....

For now, telemetry from my gopro must do. Got damn this "QS combo" have some power......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQDnRObbOsU&t=5s
 
larsb said:
If you increase the battery current and add a little field weakening (if you don’t already use it) then you’ll see some ”small” improvements on the high rpm torque :D
That’s if your battery can deliver.
Click to expand...

This is my field weakening settings. What would you change then larsb ?? I have the controller locked in to "S mode" , so as of now its 150 batts amp. I´m pretty sure my battery can handle more.... But i´m interested in what you think about the field settings.
Thanks
 

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Max recommended limits in manual is compensation 64 and 3000 so at least you don’t have too little :D

Set the bus bar amp to 220A and you’ll see.. but be careful not to run long time full throttle.

Why do you have soft start?
 
larsb said:
Max recommended limits in manual is compensation 64 and 3000 so at least you don’t have too little :D

Set the bus bar amp to 220A and you’ll see.. but be careful not to run long time full throttle.

Why do you have soft start?
Click to expand...

So if im only in Sport mode all the time, this would be the settings to try?

Sport mode setup -->current limiting --> from 150 to 220 (with caution)
Sport mode setup --> flux weakening value --> from 2900 and 2800 to --> 3000 and 3000
Flux weakening compensation --> from 80 to 64 (to be on the safe side)


Btw. I do not use soft start (old screen shot)
 
No, set bus bar current on first screen to 220A or even 250A.

If you don’t have button activating sport pin then controller never gets to sport mode (if i remember it correctly)

But you might as well change sport to the same settings.
 
Yes I have bridged the sport mode wire, and can se under "display" in the software that its in s mode. Okay, I Will change both Places (Amp) what about flux.... Did it sound correct, in my post over here ?
 
larsb said:
Yes, should be correct like that. Question is if it needs to be at max setting.
I’d try a variation from 1000-2000-3000 and see if you notice any difference. If not then just keep it at the lowest level.
Click to expand...

Thanks.... I try...
 
Grantmac said:
I think you could gear your kart for a bit more speed, you are so traction limited on the bottom end.
Click to expand...

I think I try : Flux weakening from 80 to 64. And "high flux-weakening" 3000 - 3000..... And some more bat amps. If I have more torque in the top end, maybe i would lower my flux settings even more. And change the back gear sprocket yes... Yes the wheels just spins now from from 0 - 20km/h . But after the tires get warm, its better. And I think that 3 degrees outside , is not the best for grib. I want to keep the massive torque I have now, so I have to test on track when the Spring comes, to se if the tires get more grip.
 
Do you have a class you will be running it in? 90km/h is pretty slow for most karts.
Yes kart tires are not made for winter AT ALL! But very few karts can spin them in a straight line even when hot, except maybe shifters.
 
Grantmac said:
Do you have a class you will be running it in? 90km/h is pretty slow for most karts.
Yes kart tires are not made for winter AT ALL! But very few karts can spin them in a straight line even when hot, except maybe shifters.
Click to expand...


Yes I know its slow...
This was also just a fun project for me to do, so maybe I just stick with that. I know little about karting. My friend has built one also, so we are going to test them against each other on a track no matter what.
I think this is going to be my settings for the next test run. What do you think Larsb ?
 
larsb said:
Looks ok, if you increased the busbar current also.

You really should gear it for more speed if you get wheelspins so easily :wink:
Click to expand...

I will change the bush bar current as well, even though i don't understand why, when the carts is always permanently in "s-mode" ??

Low and mid has awesome torque... but the top not so much(flux-weakening). My rear pulley (the cart is belt driven) is custom CNC made for my gocart axel. So before I change / got a new pulley made, I would very much like to se a top end with more torque, so the cart actually can take me to maybe the magical 100 km/h with another gearing and better torque :)
I know regular gasoline karts runs faster in top speed, so if me and my friend whats to compete against that, we have to better torque than on gasoline....
 
Even geared way higher you will have a lot more bottom end than a gas kart. They really don't start making power until they are in the upper 50% of their RPM range.
Being traction limited in a straight line will mean you are waaaaay low on traction once you start to go around corners.

I would consider chain drive since that will let you adjust gearing much easier.
 
Grantmac said:
Even geared way higher you will have a lot more bottom end than a gas kart. They really don't start making power until they are in the upper 50% of their RPM range.
Being traction limited in a straight line will mean you are waaaaay low on traction once you start to go around corners.

I would consider chain drive since that will let you adjust gearing much easier.
Click to expand...

We did choose the belt driven QS mid drive motor for a reason. To see how much we are able to keep the noise down. And because belt is pretty much maintenance free. Since this is a project / test, we knew that many things would change, as things evolved, and we become wiser. Changing the rear pulley is possible going to be one of those things. But at the same time i´m afraid putting even more load on the battery, once I change the gearing, I want to keep some sort of efficiency still. This is still in a early phase, and i'm here to learn 8)

Also the greate thing about electric motors, is that i could easily and fast change settings for the track, once im starting to know my setup and kart better.
 
I will change the bush bar current as well, even though i don't understand why, when the carts is always permanently in "s-mode" ??
Click to expand...

Busbar current should set the overall limit. Sport mode will be dependent on it.

Don’t belive me? Set busbar current at something like 10A and keep the sport setting as it is. What happens?
 
larsb said:
I will change the bush bar current as well, even though i don't understand why, when the carts is always permanently in "s-mode" ??
Click to expand...

Busbar current should set the overall limit. Sport mode will be dependent on it.

Don’t belive me? Set busbar current at something like 10A and keep the sport setting as it is. What happens?
Click to expand...

Great info, thanks :bigthumb: When are you going to make a Wiki of this controller. And a real English manual :) :p :p
 
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