TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

casainho said:
Rydon said:
Yes, I am a little confused as well. We have been waiting a long time for 850C on v20. v20 is the main development branch with lots of amazing features and capabilities. So now we have v50 based on v19? Did I read some time back that this is just temporary to add the torque calibration? When will we get back to v20 that we spent the summer testing and getting ready for release? Was v20 ever released? Will 850C ever work on it or will that only be v21? Sorry, but I am confused. Perhaps I missed some updates on this topic.
I hope you understand what is my motivations by reading the previous message -- it is mainly to solve my problems (not the others problems) but I am really happy to share with others what I developed for me.

I see. I am disappointed that you are not moving forward with v20. I can understand that you want to have a thread focused primarily on the problems and features that interest you. I am glad that this project interested you in the beginning or we would not have any of it. :)

andrea_104kg said:
I would like to ask Casahino a question, I think it is better to make it visible to everyone.
When the original display version of Marcoq was created, I opened another post dedicated to it. Gradually users have dedicated themselves to studying it and are improving it. It seems that soon we will have version 20 for lcd03 also on the original display. Can I do the same for the lcd03 version? If there is someone who intends to develop it, he can post his results there. By now this tread is dedicated to the 850 display software.

I think this is a good idea. Since you mention that v20 will be supported on the Marcoq thread it appears that there is a way forward for v20. That is great news! You also mention support for KT-LCD3. Does this mean that in addition to the Java configurator, if the choice is KT-LCD3 you will also be able to configure from the KT-LCD3 as with the regular v20 release?
 
redwater said:
casainho said:
redwater said:
Try XL6019. Works excellent, or get power from battery directly.
If so, can you guys please share pictures and more details? I would like to add to the wiki as this is highly valueable.

Ok. I make, and share more pictures tomorrow. It is chip parts from e-store (allegro.pl in Poland, its like ebay), USB-UART, and DC-DC XL6019 converter.

Ups. my photos was blocked on fotosik.pl cause of transfer limit ... I'll move it to another server .
 
redwater said:
redwater said:
casainho said:
redwater said:
Try XL6019. Works excellent, or get power from battery directly.
If so, can you guys please share pictures and more details? I would like to add to the wiki as this is highly valueable.

Ok. I make, and share more pictures tomorrow. It is chip parts from e-store (allegro.pl in Poland, its like ebay), USB-UART, and DC-DC XL6019 converter.

Ups. my photos was blocked on fotosik.pl cause of transfer limit ... I'll move it to another server .
After looking at your pictures, I don't know how to update the wiki with them. Can you please write the text I should add there with your images?

You can copy wiki text to here and use your images here, then I will copy that to the wiki page.
 
xlxc34 said:
maximusdm said:
Hello,

I need some ideas from people who installed/worked on the torque sensor. SO far I got the service manual from casainho and I have some clues.
I will try to create a tutorial after I have a way of putting it back.

How did you removed the torque sensor from the frame? I mean the actual torque sensor that is pressed inside the frame. What are the options other that bashing it with a big hammer?

Also how did you press it in while not loosing the small springs?

Thanks!

A couple of things that helped for me:

I made a gear puller from the spider by buying some extra long bolts and building up washers on the axle.

Make sure you remove all necessary circlips (there is one hiding behind a rubber bung on the non-drive side). Then I just gently tapped away with a wooden mallet to get it out!

For getting it back in (more important, because the springs need to stay in place), I managed to lash another tool together that pulled it into place using the crank bolts.

For me the two key things were making sure all necessary circlips were out and creating the gear pulling tool for the spider. Actually getting it out was ok because it just needed a gentle tapping.

Hope that helps!

Really appreciate the answer! Can you please post some pictures with the custom tools? My problems are now only with the pull/push of the sensor to the frame.
 
I created a new tread dedicated to the version for lcd03. Please post any problems or new developments there to avoid confusion with the new 850x color display version.
 
maximusdm said:
Really appreciate the answer! Can you please post some pictures with the custom tools? My problems are now only with the pull/push of the sensor to the frame.

Hopefully this is the part of the puzzle you are missing, I worked out how to get the torque sensor out with the image below from the repair manual.
tsdz2-torque-sensor.jpg
With all circlips, washers, bearings and seals removed from both sides of the motor axle as well as the sprag bearing drive wheel you need to put the axle back in from the motor side and gently tap the end of the axle from the motor side, as sort of shown in the image, this will push the torque sensor out. Having something ready on the chainring side to catch the 3 small springs that sit behind the torque sensor is a good idea as they are easily lost if they drop to the floor.

Be careful of the torque sensor wires as they are quite delicate.

To refit the sensor I lay the bike on it’s side, torque sensor side up, if on the floor you have to get your head down low to make sure you have everything lined up before tapping the torque sensor back in, reassembly with the motor out on a bench is easier.

Unfortunately I have no other pictures.

Hope this helps.
 
I finally made a video demonstrating my engine concerns, sorry about the wind noise but the motor sound is important to hear. This was using v0.19 for VLCD5. I have no idea if this is normal so please tell me how this compares to other motors.

I have been converting v0.20 to factory displays and have been running that for the last week. The operation is greatly improved over v0.19 but there is hint something still isn't right.

[youtube]20iHVS-A5dQ[/youtube]
 
famichiki said:
I finally made a video demonstrating my engine concerns, sorry about the wind noise but the motor sound is important to hear. This was using v0.19 for VLCD5. I have no idea if this is normal so please tell me how this compares to other motors.

I have been converting v0.20 to factory displays and have been running that for the last week. The operation is greatly improved over v0.19 but there is hint something still isn't right.
Please user the other threads and use this only for discussion of current stable firmware version.
 
So that I can narrow down where the problem might lie, I am hoping to hear from users of the original v0.19. Isn't that the latest stable release? I am assuming this is abnormal but these are cheap motors and for all I know this might be how they all work.
 
devboy-greg said:
maximusdm said:
Really appreciate the answer! Can you please post some pictures with the custom tools? My problems are now only with the pull/push of the sensor to the frame.

Hopefully this is the part of the puzzle you are missing, I worked out how to get the torque sensor out with the image below from the repair manual.
tsdz2-torque-sensor.jpg
With all circlips, washers, bearings and seals removed from both sides of the motor axle as well as the sprag bearing drive wheel you need to put the axle back in from the motor side and gently tap the end of the axle from the motor side, as sort of shown in the image, this will push the torque sensor out. Having something ready on the chainring side to catch the 3 small springs that sit behind the torque sensor is a good idea as they are easily lost if they drop to the floor.

Be careful of the torque sensor wires as they are quite delicate.

To refit the sensor I lay the bike on it’s side, torque sensor side up, if on the floor you have to get your head down low to make sure you have everything lined up before tapping the torque sensor back in, reassembly with the motor out on a bench is easier.

Unfortunately I have no other pictures.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for the details.

For removal you need to push the sensor via the axle towards to the chain ring part. It is not enough to hit the axle visible in picture one because it will go in and still the sensor is not loose. I put the axle the other way around and so i have enough space to remove the sensor.
 
famichiki said:
I am hoping to hear from users of the original v0.19. Isn't that the latest stable release?
Strange that you don't know that most recent stable version is V0.51.0, since you are being following this thread.
 
casainho said:
redwater said:
redwater said:
casainho said:
If so, can you guys please share pictures and more details? I would like to add to the wiki as this is highly valueable.

Ok. I make, and share more pictures tomorrow. It is chip parts from e-store (allegro.pl in Poland, its like ebay), USB-UART, and DC-DC XL6019 converter.

Ups. my photos was blocked on fotosik.pl cause of transfer limit ... I'll move it to another server .
After looking at your pictures, I don't know how to update the wiki with them. Can you please write the text I should add there with your images?

You can copy wiki text to here and use your images here, then I will copy that to the wiki page.

New place:

https://tinypic.pl/users/redwater

Can be used without restrictions.
 
Today I had a scary experience with the stable 0.19 FW and a SW102 display. While I was riding I noticed the motor was constantly giving assistance even though I was not pedaling. Display showed some error message (only thing I remember it had a file state.c in it). I tried to turn off the system on the display but it did not react. I have the TSDZ2 without throttle and so no power cutoff break levers either.

Luckily I was driving through a park so I could let the wheel spin on the wet grass while I disconnected the battery. That was the only way to stop the motor.

Has anyone experienced something similar? I imagine this can be quite dangerous.

After a restart everything seemed to be back to normal.
 
stefkrger said:
Today I had a scary experience with the stable 0.19 FW and a SW102 display. While I was riding I noticed the motor was constantly giving assistance even though I was not pedaling. Display showed some error message (only thing I remember it had a file state.c in it). I tried to turn off the system on the display but it did not react. I have the TSDZ2 without throttle and so no power cutoff break levers either.

Luckily I was driving through a park so I could let the wheel spin on the wet grass while I disconnected the battery. That was the only way to stop the motor.

Has anyone experienced something similar? I imagine this can be quite dangerous.

After a restart everything seemed to be back to normal.
That is a known issue. On latest version of firmware (for 850C only currently), that issue should be solved, on that rare case the system would restart.
 
casainho said:
That is a known issue. On latest version of firmware (for 850C only currently), that issue should be solved, on that rare case the system would restart.
Thanks casainho for the quick response and for all the work you've put into this project in general. Really appreciate it!

Could say a bit more on what exactly is going wrong when this error occurs? Maybe there is a discussion on that issue which I did not find?
 
stefkrger said:
casainho said:
That is a known issue. On latest version of firmware (for 850C only currently), that issue should be solved, on that rare case the system would restart.
Could say a bit more on what exactly is going wrong when this error occurs? Maybe there is a discussion on that issue which I did not find?
I think there is something wrong with the communications and it halt the ebike control calculations, meaning the motor runs considering to have the same power target, things like braking, changing the value of torque sensor and cadence are not detected anymore.
 
casainho said:
famichiki said:
I am hoping to hear from users of the original v0.19. Isn't that the latest stable release?
Strange that you don't know that most recent stable version is V0.51.0, since you are being following this thread.

I am following intently but sometimes even I cannot keep up, there has been a lot discussion in general here lately.

The latest stable release in the Github motor repository is v0.19.0.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/releases

After much searching, I found you are now instead releasing only hex files as part of the Color LCD 850C releases.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases

There is no obvious download link in your signature, the first post of this thread, or in the wiki. Please consider taking a few minutes to update those because due to limitations of the forum's search engine, searching for v0.51.0 returns no results. The link was in your post a few pages back which incidentally didn't mention v0.51.0 at all.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&start=4250#p1520263

I do understand your motives but please don't be so quick to cast aside users of previous versions because their enthusiasm, support and feedback is what helped the project get this far.
 
famichiki said:
I do understand your motives but please don't be so quick to cast aside users of previous versions because their enthusiasm, support and feedback is what helped the project get this far.
You get to the correct firmware version by following the wiki, the how to install the firmware guide.

There is no other way, users need to update the firmware to latest version.

And I did saw your video and I known because I did the development that the latest version of 0.51.0 has improvements on the issues you did show in the video. So my suggestion to everyone is to update to the latest version.
 
casainho said:
And I did saw your video and I known because I did the development that the latest version of 0.51.0 has improvements on the issues you did show in the video. So my suggestion to everyone is to update to the latest version.

Hi Casainho, I have been trying to keep up too.. as you know I have the KT LCD3 and I'm on version 20 beta 1 which I'm really happy with. I thought the new version 0.51 now only supports 850c display correct ? From my reading it seems the 850c code isn't as mature as the lcd3 yet ?

If so Is there any way to get it to work on the LCD3, I would love to try 0.51..?
 
casainho said:
You get to the correct firmware version by following the wiki, the how to install the firmware guide.

There is no other way, users need to update the firmware to latest version.

And I did saw your video and I known because I did the development that the latest version of 0.51.0 has improvements on the issues you did show in the video. So my suggestion to everyone is to update to the latest version.

Thanks, I have just tried following that again. Perhaps I am blind, all the links only seem to lead to more wiki pages. :confused:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware

Let's have an honest discussion about v0.19.0 vs v0.51.0. Specifically which improvements do you think will help with the issues I am seeing and why? I'm interested to learn more.
 
famichiki said:
Thanks, I have just tried following that again. Perhaps I am blind, all the links only seem to lead to more wiki pages. :confused:
I agree. I was confusing, and it sometimes still is. The way the wiki is organized, and the structuring of documentation. Or at least, it's different from what I'm used to work with. And this shall not be taken as offense.
I suggest everyone should participate in making the wiki/documention as as good and great as the firmware is, and add his knowledge to it by editing it or making suggestions.
 
famichiki said:
I finally made a video demonstrating my engine concerns, sorry about the wind noise but the motor sound is important to hear. This was using v0.19 for VLCD5. I have no idea if this is normal so please tell me how this compares to other motors.

I have been converting v0.20 to factory displays and have been running that for the last week. The operation is greatly improved over v0.19 but there is hint something still isn't right.

[youtube]20iHVS-A5dQ[/youtube]

I'm using a coaster brake motor so the overrun in version 19 was scary. The overrun in version 20 is way better but not 100% fixed. But it is usable and not scary. Baba was going to fix the overrun completely in version 21 and he was also going to add a torque sensor sensitivity adjustment, I was really looking forward to it!
 
famichiki said:
casainho said:
You get to the correct firmware version by following the wiki, the how to install the firmware guide.

There is no other way, users need to update the firmware to latest version.

And I did saw your video and I known because I did the development that the latest version of 0.51.0 has improvements on the issues you did show in the video. So my suggestion to everyone is to update to the latest version.

Thanks, I have just tried following that again. Perhaps I am blind, all the links only seem to lead to more wiki pages. :confused:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware

Let's have an honest discussion about v0.19.0 vs v0.51.0. Specifically which improvements do you think will help with the issues I am seeing and why? I'm interested to learn more.

You can download TSDZ2 v0.51.0 and 850C_v0.6.2 here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases
 
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