Hb powerwall on YouTube used his 18650 powerwall modules that are something like 100p laptop cells.. He also had similar electrode holder but that design has problem that its difficult to keep pressure equal between tips. That can cause sparks and problems..Qachi said:
kWeld - "Next level" DIY battery spot welder
- Thread starter tatus1969
- Start date
That's not much info to diagnose :wink: Can you post all the info that the welder displays after calibration OPEN and SHORT, and after a welding attempt? When you calibrate, please make sure to have clean electrodes for the SHORT step (use fine sand paper to clean them), push the tips together hard, and make sure that you don't get any sparks at all.Compoundbike said:
Compoundbike
100 W
Ok i will check out at the weekend, when im in my Workshop, thank you.
999zip999
100 TW
You have a picture or link.
eee291
100 kW
JLC PCB to the rescue :lol:
They don't have the quality that I am asking for... And I have gone through their price calculator once for a smaller project. Not as cheap as you might think, for example they add USD2500 project cost upfront. I had been using Elecrow at the beginning, and actually moved because of that reason. The German EMS turned out to be cheaper than them.eee291 said:
tatus1969 said:
I came to read this thread just to look for this question and you answered it.
But i would like to know what pulse you and the rest of you find is acceptable (for let's say 0.15 mm nickel)? The longer the pulse=the lower burst current the battery provide.
Would you say, the higher the current the lower the pulse is better?
quick update: still haven't received the kCaps yet, since the manufacturer realized a problem with wave soldering the capacitors: the conveyor belt is slanted, causing the caps to tilt. Solving this with a clamp that will sit on top of them. New expected arrival April 3.
And I want to share a new video with you, from a fellow guy in New Zealand: https://youtu.be/DX1U3UnCej0
I'm very impressed by his video, it is such good that it can even replace my kWeld assembly document.
And I want to share a new video with you, from a fellow guy in New Zealand: https://youtu.be/DX1U3UnCej0
I'm very impressed by his video, it is such good that it can even replace my kWeld assembly document.
It's very simple, the higher the current, the shorter the pulse (actually that is a quadratic equation, as P = I^2 * R), the better. When the pulse duration gets too long (from my experience, I'd say stay below 50ms), then it's no longer spot welding but surface heating.eikido said:
Have a question regarding calibration.
I use 3s4p spim08hp.
The cable I use from the battery to kweld is 4 awg wire, length of 300mm, so in cable setting I adjusted it to 1.5m. But I get overcurrent during calibration, and 1563a? The voltage of the battery is 11.66v.
Is my cable setting correct, is the solution to use 16awg or 8 awg wire from battery to kweld?
I use 3s4p spim08hp.
The cable I use from the battery to kweld is 4 awg wire, length of 300mm, so in cable setting I adjusted it to 1.5m. But I get overcurrent during calibration, and 1563a? The voltage of the battery is 11.66v.
Is my cable setting correct, is the solution to use 16awg or 8 awg wire from battery to kweld?
Your cable setting is correct, as is the reaction from the unit. That extra cable length increased loop inductance (please see the operating manual section regarding inductive kickback), which requires to lower the maximum allowed current. Only at 1.0m total round-trip, the unit can handle 2000A.hamid120 said:
Using thinner gauge wire will probably add the necessary resistance to lower the current below the max, but you a) then have less current to handle thick nickel strips, and b) a new heat problem.
It is essential to keep the wiring as short as possible, so I suggest to reduce the length down to 1m. Current is then best regulated by choosing a good combination of battery voltage and internal resistance. In your case, you might want to test 2s4p, and if that doesn't work (it should!), 3s3p.
I don't recommend clamping, because at these current levels you'd need quite some clamping force, and you'll likely damage the ultracap's seal and eventually push the negative terminal into the cell. The tabs are not tall enough to clamp them individually, so welding them in some way is the only viable option I'm afraid. My AU reseller has received a few of them and plans to make a video that shows how that can be done.Vbruun said:
thefreeman
1 µW
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1
What about putting copper braid between the terminals, wouldn't that allow better electrical contact under less force ? But it would maybe oxidize over time ?
(first post here, I've been lurking for a while, so... hello!
)
(first post here, I've been lurking for a while, so... hello!
)