tlg said:
Roots Rocker said:
philf said:Anyways, I thought I toss this out there - the markings (and chip used) on this board seem to be very similar to the board posted earlier in the thread. I've mapped out where all of the coloured wires go, and what the do (though I have no idea how the "alarm" feature is used), so FWIW - this is the diagram:
XLD500WController.jpg
The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.
Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.
The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB
The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.
The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.
The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.
The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.
The "autometer signal" is interesting. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. It's blue, and connected to "S+". I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun.
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.
Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".
Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).
Dunno if any of this is useful, but its the first time I've had my mitts on one of these "X806M" based controllers.
I'm dubious about the "sine wave" output of this thing. So far, the motor I'm playing with sounds exactly the same as it did with the older model Infineon job that was previously on there.
rocorbo said:
inglete said:
Red usually goes to red, and black usually goes to black. If for some reason black is the 5v lines of your throttle and PAS sensor, then the way you have it is right, but otherwise, you have them the wrong way, and it's possible to damage the electronics hooking them up backwards.Hebblet said:
That is correct. All that wire does is put the controller into a mode that "learns" the correct phase/hall wiring combo. Typically if you connect it, then disconnect it, and then connect it again, it reverses the motor direction (so you can have it learn the right way for your system). When it is working in the direction you need, disconnect and leave it that way.
Hi! I had the same ignition pin confusion; after connecting the orange cable to battery +ve, the motor does turn on. But as soon as I accelerate, the motor makes weird kind of vibration sounds and the wheel does spin fully but I'm not sure about this vibration. The battery wires and the motor cable gets hot, the controller and motor itself are not heating up. Any reason for this vibration ( and weird sound- just like how a door creeks) and heating?philf said:Rodrigoperez said:
The only wires you need (correctly) connected for the controller to actually turn the motor are the power, "ignition", hall sensors, phase wires, and throttle. The "ignition" wire needs to be connected to to the battery, the same as the main power line (many people just tie them together). This is the orange wire that's part of the three contact power connector, as the unit ships, and they refer to it as "electric lock" in the diagram I posted earlier in the thread. You can completely ignore the "alarm" wires - I have no idea what these do, and will remove them (along with some of the other wires I don't use) - just to clean things up.
Assuming everything is connected, it's possible that you have a mismatch between the controller's configured voltage and the battery you are using. If your battery is below the LVC (low voltage cut-off) that the controller is expecting, then you'll get nothing. If you've connected either of the brake lines, then disconnect those to make sure you aren't inadvertently triggering the cut-off associated with *them*.
Normally, there's a bit of an exercise to get the hall/phase wires sorted - with this controller, simply connecting the green auto-config ("intelligent identification", in the diagram) wires together should make the wheel spin (make sure the wheel is off the ground
Hope it's this simple!
Edit:
Just wanted to be clear about the "ignition"/"electric lock" (both misnomers, as far I'm concerned), in case it turns out to be this simple - you wouldn't want to to be running the battery randomly into any of the other orange or red wires on the controller. It's THESE wires that both need to be connected to the battery:
You *can* install a switch on the orange wire, which is what the intention was of bringing that wire out separately.
